Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #1
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    Mar 2011
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    New brakes not performing like they should?

    Over the weekend I replaced my pads and rotors all the way around. I used OEM-style made by Brembo rotors, and Cool Carbon pads. Everything went smooth (with the exception of breaking one of the caliper bracket bolts, all set now though) but on the drive to work this morning, I noticed that my pedal requires much more effort to get the same amount of braking force that I was used to with the old brakes.
    Is there a "break-in" period required for new brakes? From what I've read, the Cool Carbon pads are suppose to provide a pretty aggressive bite. I was very careful with cleaning the new rotors before installation, and made sure I didn't contaminate the pads with anything before putting them on. As of right now, they are providing less performance than the outgoing pads which were nearly wiped out. I'm hoping I just need to put on a few hundred miles before they've married.
    Any suggestions or input? Thanks guys.


    BMW Perf. Gloss Kidneys | UUC DSSR | B&M SSK | 35% tint | AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses | Tri-Color Coby Wheel | Aux Input

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    La Crosse, WI
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    The bed-in process is VERY important when you install new brakes and rotors. If you haven't done this yet, I would highly suggest it, as it could be the main issue behind them performing poorly.

    You can find the suggested bed-in procedure for your Cool Carbon pads here: http://www.coolcarbonperformance.com/bedding.html

    Also, if you just want to read in general about the bed-in process: http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85
    Kyle - Wisconsin Crew - 2001 BMW M3
    Supersprint Headers/Section 2 - Eisenmann Muffler - aFe Stage 2 Intake -
    Bilstien PSS9 Coilovers - VMR V710 (Gunmetal Powdercoat) - UUC EVO Short Shifter - ZHP Shift Knob

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by AzkotikBMW View Post
    The bed-in process is VERY important when you install new brakes and rotors. If you haven't done this yet, I would highly suggest it, as it could be the main issue behind them performing poorly.

    You can find the suggested bed-in procedure for your Cool Carbon pads here: http://www.coolcarbonperformance.com/bedding.html

    Also, if you just want to read in general about the bed-in process: http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85
    Perfect, this is what I was looking for. Thanks for the help.


    BMW Perf. Gloss Kidneys | UUC DSSR | B&M SSK | 35% tint | AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses | Tri-Color Coby Wheel | Aux Input

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Middle River, MD
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    Definitely seconding the bed-in process.

    Also, kind of late, but did you read the directions for the rotors? I noticed that when I bought new rotors, they did not need to be cleaned. It said on the instruction sheet, "Rotors are ready to install. DO NOT USE BRAKE CLEANING PRODUCTS ON ROTORS." I did not use brake cleaning products on the rotors.

  5. #5
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    Mar 2011
    Location
    Asheville, NC
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    Bedding in is very important, and fun. It's neat to feel the performance of the brakes improve through the process. And it's crucial to try not to come to a complete stop during the 65-10mph decels and then when done drive around and let the brakes cool down before parking.

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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    La Crosse, WI
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryans323i View Post
    Bedding in is very important, and fun. It's neat to feel the performance of the brakes improve through the process. And it's crucial to try not to come to a complete stop during the 65-10mph decels and then when done drive around and let the brakes cool down before parking.
    Hit it right on the head Ryan.....don't want to come to a complete stop when the brakes are hot, or they will burn into the rotors!
    Kyle - Wisconsin Crew - 2001 BMW M3
    Supersprint Headers/Section 2 - Eisenmann Muffler - aFe Stage 2 Intake -
    Bilstien PSS9 Coilovers - VMR V710 (Gunmetal Powdercoat) - UUC EVO Short Shifter - ZHP Shift Knob

  7. #7
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    Mar 2011
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    Maine
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    Thanks again you guys.


    BMW Perf. Gloss Kidneys | UUC DSSR | B&M SSK | 35% tint | AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses | Tri-Color Coby Wheel | Aux Input

  8. #8
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    And I do about 450 mi/week, so I should be able to do some heavy 80-10mph stops by Saturday... as long as noone is behind me.


    BMW Perf. Gloss Kidneys | UUC DSSR | B&M SSK | 35% tint | AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses | Tri-Color Coby Wheel | Aux Input

  9. #9
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    Feb 2011
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    La Crosse, WI
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    Thats ok, but you want to do them in succession. You want them right after another to bring the brakes up to high temp to properly bed them in with the rotors. If you can't do 80-10 you can do 70 or even 60-10. But make sure you do it 60 to 10 right back to 60 down to 10 at LEAST 5 times.
    Kyle - Wisconsin Crew - 2001 BMW M3
    Supersprint Headers/Section 2 - Eisenmann Muffler - aFe Stage 2 Intake -
    Bilstien PSS9 Coilovers - VMR V710 (Gunmetal Powdercoat) - UUC EVO Short Shifter - ZHP Shift Knob

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