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Thread: OEM TPMS Retrofit- The full package doityourself

  1. #1
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    OEM TPMS Retrofit- The full package doityourself

    Ok, this DIY retrofit writeup is for the full TPMS package, from the coding to the reset button, to the wiring into the DSC module. Each part of this setup will get its own set of steps. First, a brief description. The OEM TPMS setup does not involve sensors in each wheel, making it fairly easy to retrofit. Also, changing wheels/tires doesn't affect the system at all. The system relies on wheel speed and compares the revolutions of each wheel with each other to determine if one wheel has an incorrect tire pressure. More or less revolutions will occur based on higher/lower tire pressures. The system isn't the most high tech, but it does work, and I can confirm, fairly well.

    So, lets get started!

    Part 1: The Coding
    Using coding software, you will need to access a couple of modules and make a few changes. There are 4 lines of code needed in the KMB module to get the TPMS system functional. The beauty of this mod is that technically, once the coding is done, the system is functional and you can stop there! The wiring and reset button are only needed for resetting the light/system. But, you can still use the system to monitor your tire pressures. If the light goes off, you'll just need to visit a dealer that can reset the light for you. But I digress... Coding the KMB module, you'll need to find each of these line items. The default setting is in parentheses, you'll need to change them to the other setting.

    Description~String~Options (Default)
    1. Tire Pressure Control System (RDKS)~RDKS~aktiv / (nicht_aktiv)
    2. Can-Bus Tire Pressure Control (RDC)~CAN_RDC~aktiv / (nicht_aktiv)
    3. Tire Pressure Control System (RDKS) Warning Gong~AKUSTIK_RDKS~aktiv / (nicht_aktiv)
    4. Output Device for tire pressure control system (rdks) warning~WARN_MEDIUM_RDKS~gong / (piezo)

    Once this is done, you'll need to code one line in the MK60 module. The line is below.

    Description~String~Options (Default)
    1. Tire Pressure Control System (RDKS)~REIFENDRUCKWARNSYSTEM~aktiv / (nicht_aktiv)

    Ok, so the coding is done! Now, when you turn your key to the on position, or start the car, you'll see the TPMS warning light first light up amber, and then red, before going out. Good news, the system is active. Now the next part!

    Part 2: The reset button
    The button is located on the center console, in the same button panel as the heated seats, DSC and HK button that we already have. Your individual setup may vary based on the options of your car, so ideally, the replacement switch setup you locate will have all the other switches you currently have, in the same location, with the added TPMS button. Something to note, the panel you get will most likely be from an M3, so it'll also have the sport button, something that we cannot make use of, at least not without doing the Sprintbooster/sport button mod. But that's a whole other DIY! So, I digress, you'll need to get another button panel with the TPMS reset button. Example below (this is what mine looks like as well). The TPMS reset button is the one in the middle.

    Name:  switches.jpg
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    For the following part, the steps only reflect cars with OEM navigation as they will be different for cars without nav. For my car (with navigation) the steps are as follows. I didn't include many pics as none are really needed.

    1. Remove shift knob and shift boot.
    2. Remove the trim around the shift knob/boot, two philips screws. Don't forget to disconnect the two window switches.
    3. Take a small flatblade screwdriver or thin pry tool (preferred) and pry the HVAC controls out of place from one side. The unit is only clipped into place, but it does have 4-5 connectors on the back. Gently pry it out so as not to damage it/the dash, and then disconnect all the connectors. There are no two alike, so no need to mark them.
    4. Remove 4 philips screws that hold the lower trim piece in place. Two are hidden at the top, under where the HVAC controls were. Two are at the bottom, under where the shifter trim was. Remove all 4. Pull the trim out, but not too far.
    5. There are two connectors on the back of the switch panel, disconnect them.
    6. Remove two small Torx screws and remove the switch panel.
    7. Install your new switch panel.
    8. Complete part 3 now if possible, otherwise it'll be more work later to disassemble the center console for access to the switch panel connectors again for the wiring. Otherwise, reassemble the center console, knowing that your new switches won't do anything for the time being.

    Part 3: The wiring
    This is the part needed to actually make the reset button function. Its a lot of work for a mod that honestly won't get used much, but its still nice to have, and if you're going to do it, might as well do it all and do it well. That being said, basically, an additional wire is needed that runs from the reset button to the DSC module. The wire has to be ran from the large flat connector at the switch panel, through the dash, to the drivers side, through the firewall, and then up into the DSC module connector. Luckily, there is a ventilation port for the DME housing, so it makes for a very easy location to run the wire. Personally, I started at the DME and ran back to the switch panel. Before starting any work on the car, you'll need to make a jumper wire with the correct pins on either end. I received clipped connectors from someone parting a car. It was easiest as the connectors were already crimped on, all I needed to do was take one pin from each connector and then insert about 6' of wire in between to make the wire needed.

    1. Pop the hood, and then remove the cabin air filter and housing. Once you remove the filter cover and filter, you'll see 4 Torx screws. Remove them and the whole housing will come out. Make sure to unclip the wire loom that runs across the front of the housing.
    2. Remove the heat/splash shield on the drivers side that protects the DSC and brake master cylinder. This will help you access the DSC plug. Pic shows it in place below.



    3. Disconnect the DSC plug from the unit. It is a large plug, down low on the front side of the DSC module, set at an angle. The tab on the upper end of the plug will need to be pulled to slide the plug off. Like many other plugs on the E46, it is a slide lock style connection. Pic below.



    4. Once the plug is disconnected, pull it up a bit to gain better access. On the same end as the slide lock, you'll see a blue tab, you'll need to slide that out as well. This blue portion locks the pins into place on the connector. Sliding it out will open the port for the needed wire terminal to be inserted.





    5. Locate pin #40. You'll see on the face of the connector that there are small numbers, depicting the pin numbers. If you count back from the end pin (numbered 46) you'll find that #40 should be empty. Ensuring the same hole, flip the connector over. You'll find an empty rubber grommet in the hole. Remove it.



    Ok, so this is one end of where the wire needs to be installed. Like I said, I started here and ran it back up to the center console. To fish through the firewall, you'll need some sort of cable or a metal coat hanger. I used a steel cable. If you look under the dash, you'll find the hole to fish the wire through.
    Last edited by JupiterBMW; 01-12-2016 at 08:16 PM.
    Jon aka "Joop"
    2011 Lemans Blue Metallic/Bamboo Beige ///M3 2013 Alpine White/Chestnut X3///M Sport
    ...Past Love Affairs...
    2010 Silverstone Metallic/Black X5///M
    2003 Alpine White/Natural Brown 330i Dinan3 ZHP
    2014 Mineral White Metallic/Saddle Brown 328d
    2004 Alpine White/Natural Brown 330i ZHP
    2012 Alpine White/Oyster X3///M Sport

  2. #2
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    Ok, so now that we have our starting location for the wire, we need to actually get it ran.

    6: Using a metal coat hanger or steel cable, you'll need to fish the wire through the firewall. Start by looking up under the dash. On the driver's side, you'll need to remove the trim panel where the OBD plug is. Once you do this, you'll see a large white plastic piece. There is a small half circle shaped hole in it. This is a ventilation port for the DME box in the engine bay. This is where we'll pass the wire through. Now, go up into the engine bay and remove the 5 Torx screws covering the DME. If you look down at the back side, you'll see the same hole. Shine a light from one side and look from the other to find the exact spot. Its really quite easy. See the pics below.





    7. Now, you'll need to tape the wire to the coat hanger/steel cable and fish it through the hole. Make sure you send it the correct way so that the correct terminals are on each end and the wire isn't "backwards".





    8. Once the wire is through the firewall, you'll want to route it through the rubber sealing grommet that exits the DME box. This is the best way to exit the DME box so that you can keep the watertight seal on the box. I chose the same wire loom that goes to the DSC plug so that I can run the wire right along this loom, keeping it as neat/stealthy as possible. To do this, make the smallest hole in the grommet and then push the wire through it. Tuck the wire down to the DSC plug and ensure enough slack. Once this is done, you can put the DME box cover back on.







    9. Now its time to insert the terminal into the DSC plug. Remember, you already pulled the rubber plug out of pin 40, and this is the same plug that the new wire terminal will be inserted into. Locate the pin 40 hole and insert the wire terminal. Ensure it is inserted in the correct orientation and make sure it is installed all the way. Also make sure the rubber grommet is pushed in to seal the wire as well.





    10. Once that is done, slide the blue piece back into the connector plug. Verify the wire you inserted is tight and will not pull out. If all is secure, reinstall the DSC plug and slide the black locking piece back into place.

    11. Reinstall the heat shield around the DSC/brake master cylinder, and then reinstall the cabin air filter housing.

    12. Now its time to run the wire to the button. Get up under the dash and find the wire you ran through the firewall. Tuck it up under the dash and into the center console. You might need to use the same coat hanger, but fish it into the left side of the center console. There is a gap in there you can pull the wire through.

    13. Once you get the wire pulled up to the center console where the connectors are, you can put the under dash trim piece back up. Verify the wire is tucked and secured so that it does not fall down in the future, possibly getting caught up in the pedals.

    14. Now its time to insert the terminal into the plug for the switch panel. There are two connectors for the panel, you need the larger flat one. There is a black outer piece and the brown inner piece. Slide the black piece off which will expose the terminals a bit more.



    15. On this connector, you're looking for pin #2. Its the one just next to the large green wire at the bottom. You can see where I nicked up the connector a bit. You'll want to slide the terminal into the corresponding hole and press it until it is all the way in the hole and the little metal tab locks it into place. Again, ensure correct orientation and that the wire is secure.





    16. Once this is done, reinstall the black outer piece onto the connector. From here, you can reconnect the center console switches and HVAC controls. Reinstall all interior trim pieces and ensure all screws are secure.

    17. With everything complete and reassembled, turn the key to position 2. You should see the TPMS indicator light in amber, then red, and then go out.

    18. Now, press and hold the TPMS button until the light on the dash illuminates in amber. Release the button.

    19. Press and hold it again and eventually the light will go out. The system is now reset. Obviously, you want to do this with correct, even tire pressures.

    Congrats, you did it!
    Last edited by JupiterBMW; 01-12-2016 at 08:21 PM.
    Jon aka "Joop"
    2011 Lemans Blue Metallic/Bamboo Beige ///M3 2013 Alpine White/Chestnut X3///M Sport
    ...Past Love Affairs...
    2010 Silverstone Metallic/Black X5///M
    2003 Alpine White/Natural Brown 330i Dinan3 ZHP
    2014 Mineral White Metallic/Saddle Brown 328d
    2004 Alpine White/Natural Brown 330i ZHP
    2012 Alpine White/Oyster X3///M Sport

  3. #3
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    Insert reply here (on hold).






    Tony's ZHP "Wulf" '03 Silver Gray | Valentine 1 Radar Detector| Alcantara | BMW Performance Intake | F10 M5 Knob | Auto-dim Retrofit | BMW Alarm | Performance Grilles | OEM Roof Rack | Rain Light Sensor Retrofit | Eonon D5150 Head Unit | BMW OEM Clear Lens


  4. #4
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    Jon,

    Thanks for taking the time to post a detailed DIY for those who desired to make this happen!


    Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX HD using Tapatalk 2
    .........2008 GT Silver 997.1tt.........................2004 TiAg ///M......................2001.5 Audi S4 Avant.........

  5. #5
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    Apr 2012
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    Thanks for the replies guys. It is with thanks to you two (Tony and Charlie) that I was able to complete this.
    Jon aka "Joop"
    2011 Lemans Blue Metallic/Bamboo Beige ///M3 2013 Alpine White/Chestnut X3///M Sport
    ...Past Love Affairs...
    2010 Silverstone Metallic/Black X5///M
    2003 Alpine White/Natural Brown 330i Dinan3 ZHP
    2014 Mineral White Metallic/Saddle Brown 328d
    2004 Alpine White/Natural Brown 330i ZHP
    2012 Alpine White/Oyster X3///M Sport

  6. #6
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    Excellent DIY. Great job.
    BP
    2005 330i ZHP / 6MT
    Imolarot / Naturbraun



    It's not the car you drive, it's how you drive it.

  7. #7
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    Thanks BP. I wish I had taken more pics toward the end, but I was somewhat pressed for time as I was trying to handle my little girl too.
    Jon aka "Joop"
    2011 Lemans Blue Metallic/Bamboo Beige ///M3 2013 Alpine White/Chestnut X3///M Sport
    ...Past Love Affairs...
    2010 Silverstone Metallic/Black X5///M
    2003 Alpine White/Natural Brown 330i Dinan3 ZHP
    2014 Mineral White Metallic/Saddle Brown 328d
    2004 Alpine White/Natural Brown 330i ZHP
    2012 Alpine White/Oyster X3///M Sport

  8. #8
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    Great job Joop!

  9. #9
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    This is a great thread, I just got back from the tire shop to have a screw removed and patched only to find that I had driven on a flat tire long enough to grind the inside wall down and thus ruin a relatively new tire. After reading this thread though, I don't think I'm up to the DIY.

    Any idea on the labor/materials for this? I'm guessing 2 hours labor? Maybe $100 in parts if I can source the switch panel??

  10. #10
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    The switch panel can be sourced for about $100, so plan on $125 which will include any electrical/soldering supplies should you need them. Labor hours, I'd plan 4 hours, took me longer as I was trying to figure it out as I went...


    iPhone 5S. Tapatalk Pro. BOOM
    Jon aka "Joop"
    2011 Lemans Blue Metallic/Bamboo Beige ///M3 2013 Alpine White/Chestnut X3///M Sport
    ...Past Love Affairs...
    2010 Silverstone Metallic/Black X5///M
    2003 Alpine White/Natural Brown 330i Dinan3 ZHP
    2014 Mineral White Metallic/Saddle Brown 328d
    2004 Alpine White/Natural Brown 330i ZHP
    2012 Alpine White/Oyster X3///M Sport

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