Battery for BMW E46

[MrMaico]

Yep. And it has a green hue to it.

Actually, I just like weaving chia-pet references into everything I can. Haha. Don't mind me.

LOL.....I think that's probably a zinc coating on the bracket.

I have a Walmart 94R in my car. It was $80. I'm not a walmart fan at all, but couldn't pass up that kind of deal. It's an exact match in physical dimensions to the OE battery I removed, but higher CCA and output.

For you northern climate folks they have a 94RN with even higher CCA.

Our local WM had 4 of the 94RN's but last fall when I checked they were all over a year old so since my battery is still hanging in there I am waiting them out till they sell all the old ones, 2 down 2 to go when I checked the other day. I tested it a few months back with a fancy digital tester one of the mechanics at work has and it said "replace" but it still worked fine last time I drove it.....not so sure about his high tech tester. :-) I also noticed that Sams sells an Energizer brand for $10 than the WM battery so I might just get one of those if mine dies on me before WM gets some fresh ones.

Barry

[az3579]

So why was there talk about the 49DL (on Bimmerforums) that it didn't fir correctly and people had to put pieces of wood on top so the clamp would clamp down tight?
No one here had any fitment issues, eh?

No sir, had no problems getting it to clamp down with the battery tie-down plate. The only issue I had with it was the fact that it was a bit longer than the old one, and had to force the positive cable and explosive charge connections onto the positive terminal to keep it down as it had to be crammed into a tight space. It didn't take long at all; don't worry about it.

[JHiggy]

Was excited to read this for DIY sake until "explosive charge". Lovely. Will watch some MacGyver reruns see how to avoid combustion.

[MrMaico]

Was excited to read this for DIY sake until "explosive charge". Lovely. Will watch some MacGyver reruns see how to avoid combustion.

And they aren't exactly cheap either........

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...03&hg=61&fg=10

They can be had for about $330 though.

[az3579]

Was excited to read this for DIY sake until "explosive charge". Lovely. Will watch some MacGyver reruns see how to avoid combustion.

Yeah, I was sweating bullets at first as well, but by the end of it, it was "no sweat". I don't think the thing can go off by just knocking on it; I think it's an electronic signal that ignites it. Not sure.
Either way, I would say don't worry about it. I've knocked it against the sheet metal a couple of times as I tried to wiggle it on the terminal, and no foul.

[Tampa330i]

I'm thinking my battery is getting weak. After reading the shark post, I went and checked my battery voltage. It's at 12.1 when off and 13.7-13.8 with engine running. Time for a new battery?

[danewilson77]

Taken from research...I just wanted us to have this info.

Most of you know that replacement BMW batteries in the US were made by Douglas Battery of Winston-Salem, NC. They sold their battery division to East Penn manufacturing co. over a year ago.

East Penn now makes the replacement batteries, and they also offer them under their Deka brand name.

http://www.dekabatteries.com/assets/base/0379.pdf

In looking at this it appears new BMW's use the H7 battery.

IMHO Tampa....if your 12V battery is reading 12.1V when shut down...you should be good still. Not sure though.
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EDIT: Here's what you looking for Tampa (Maybe your battery is a lil weak)......from Bavauto...

Q
2002 325xi
ABS, 4 wheel drive triangle and Brake light are on together. When you turn car off and restart clock gets wiped out, SOMETIMES dash beeps, SOMETIMES there is a buzz under the hood, may come from electrical box near master cyl. Had alt. checked, replaced regulator, replaced battery. Initially, there was no difference. However, it now seems to be working properly. Had to go through several key cycles for everything to reset.

A
Actually, we are seeing a lot of faults and system malfunctions that are related to low system voltage, on the later model BMWs. In your case, with the various symptoms that you had noted (we also see automatic transmission fault warnings, related to this issue), I would have suggested that you check the battery State Of Health (SOH) and the alternator charge output as a first step. Of course, replacing the battery and the alternator regulator covered these areas for you.

Test the battery voltage after running the engine. It should be at least 12.7 volts (it may higher, right after charging). Check the voltage after a couple hours or the next day. The voltage should be 12.5 (75% charge) to 12.7 (100% charge), at this point. If the voltage is lower, the battery may be weak and incapable of holding a full charge.You can test the alternator output by connecting a digital voltmeter across the battery terminals. Start the engine and check the voltage with the engine at idle. You should see at least 13-volts (more is better). turn on the heavy current draw accessories (headlights on high, rear defroster, heated seats, blower motor, etc.). The voltage should still be 13-volts or more. If the voltage drops a bit (but not below 12.5-volts) as it sits and idles, rev it to about 1100 to 1200 RPM. The voltage should come up to above 13-volts.

If the above test looks suspect, you may have low alternator output and this certainly can cause all form of faults and system malfunctions on the later BMWs (about 2000-on).

[Jon D]

Taken from research...I just wanted us to have this info.

Test the battery voltage after running the engine. It should be at least 12.7 volts (it may higher, right after charging). Check the voltage after a couple hours or the next day. The voltage should be 12.5 (75% charge) to 12.7 (100% charge), at this point. If the voltage is lower, the battery may be weak and incapable of holding a full charge.

Knowing a fair bit about batteries - the above is correct in terms of the batteries ability to hold a charge. If your battery about an hour after turning the car off is showing a resting voltage under 12.5 I would consider it weak and plan on replacing at some point in the not to distant future. Once a battery has stopped holding a full charge it will fairly quickly continue to hold less and less of a charge until it finally won't do the job.

Here is a chart of battery state by voltage - for accuracy this should be measured after 24 hours of no load - i.e disconnected.

Battery State chart:
100% = 12.7V
90% = 12.6V
80% = 12.5V
70% = 12.3V
60% = 12.2V
50% = 12.1V
40% = 12.0V
30% = 11.8V
20% = 11.7V
10% = 11.6V
0% = < 11.6V

[Jon D]

I'm thinking my battery is getting weak. After reading the shark post, I went and checked my battery voltage. It's at 12.1 when off and 13.7-13.8 with engine running. Time for a new battery?

Yes - an that might also explain some of your hesitation problem.

[kayger12]

Taken from research...I just wanted us to have this info.

Most of you know that replacement BMW batteries in the US were made by Douglas Battery of Winston-Salem, NC. They sold their battery division to East Penn manufacturing co. over a year ago.

East Penn now makes the replacement batteries, and they also offer them under their Deka brand name.

http://www.dekabatteries.com/assets/base/0379.pdf

In looking at this it appears new BMW's use the H7 battery.

IMHO Tampa....if your 12V battery is reading 12.1V when shut down...you should be good still. Not sure though.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

EDIT: Here's what you looking for Tampa (Maybe your battery is a lil weak)......from Bavauto...

Q
2002 325xi
ABS, 4 wheel drive triangle and Brake light are on together. When you turn car off and restart clock gets wiped out, SOMETIMES dash beeps, SOMETIMES there is a buzz under the hood, may come from electrical box near master cyl. Had alt. checked, replaced regulator, replaced battery. Initially, there was no difference. However, it now seems to be working properly. Had to go through several key cycles for everything to reset.

A
Actually, we are seeing a lot of faults and system malfunctions that are related to low system voltage, on the later model BMWs. In your case, with the various symptoms that you had noted (we also see automatic transmission fault warnings, related to this issue), I would have suggested that you check the battery State Of Health (SOH) and the alternator charge output as a first step. Of course, replacing the battery and the alternator regulator covered these areas for you.

Test the battery voltage after running the engine. It should be at least 12.7 volts (it may higher, right after charging). Check the voltage after a couple hours or the next day. The voltage should be 12.5 (75% charge) to 12.7 (100% charge), at this point. If the voltage is lower, the battery may be weak and incapable of holding a full charge.You can test the alternator output by connecting a digital voltmeter across the battery terminals. Start the engine and check the voltage with the engine at idle. You should see at least 13-volts (more is better). turn on the heavy current draw accessories (headlights on high, rear defroster, heated seats, blower motor, etc.). The voltage should still be 13-volts or more. If the voltage drops a bit (but not below 12.5-volts) as it sits and idles, rev it to about 1100 to 1200 RPM. The voltage should come up to above 13-volts.

If the above test looks suspect, you may have low alternator output and this certainly can cause all form of faults and system malfunctions on the later BMWs (about 2000-on).

Great info. Gracias.