Oil pressure switch

[Tampa330i]

I've cleared my error codes and one that keeps coming back is 283F Oil pressure switch: signal un feasible. The error is at 3:40 in my INPA video. Based on the wording, it seems like this switch is dead. The car stalled a few times when I first got it, and hadn't done it for a while until today, it stalled again. I'm wondering it this could be the cause? My understanding of this piece is that it's what throws the dash light on when there's a problem with the oil pressure (too high?). Can anyone tie these two events together? I'm just curious because I don't get any other codes after clearing them.

[kayger12]

Sounds like a bad sensor. I'd replace it sooner than later- don't want to be in a situation where you have low oil pressure and don't get a light.

As for the stalling, could be a lot of things, but I don't think it's related to the pressure sensor.

Have you done your vanos yet? Stalling can be a vanos symptom- especially if you don't throw any codes.

Also wouldn't hurt to clean/check your ICV and DISA if it hasn't been done.

[danewilson77]

The stalling issue is most certainly, not caused by the oil pressure sensor. That oil pressure sensor will indicate low oil pressure, and will be visible as a red light. The yellow light is for oil level.

The car doent have any other codes in?

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[Tampa330i]

No other codes. It had some stored in there for o2 sensors, but I've cleared it and they haven't come back. This stall always happens while rolling without applying gas. I was pulling out of a parking spot, got maybe 15 feet from it, go to turn out of the row and it stalled right there - all 4 times have been similar situations. I counted 3 times over a month ago and now this one yesterday. I'll do another scan today and see if anything else has popped up, but I think the oil pressure switch is it. No vanos has been done yet as far as I know, and I've never heard any rattle from it. It's been driving perfectly since I got it, other than the couple stalls.

[danewilson77]

...but I think the oil pressure switch is it. No vanos has been done yet as far as I know, and I've never heard any rattle from it. It's been driving perfectly since I got it, other than the couple stalls.

I am not trying to argue...but I do not see how the Oil pressure switch will make your car stall. It does not have an auto shutoff feature or anything like that and is only an indication.

[Tampa330i]

I think the oil pressure switch is the only error, not the cause. I didn't even know what an oil pressure switch was until yesterday.

[danewilson77]

OK.....copy. The O2 sensors are suspect in your case. They will clear by themselves...or with the tool....and stay cleared for some time (50-150 miles), then come back in.

[kayger12]

Same type of problem I was having before I rebuilt the vanos in the 325. Never happened again after the rebuild. I also never had a rattle.

[danewilson77]

Good data....did you have the 2500 rpm issue?

From the website...I think Kayger could be on to something.

"Overall loss of torque and power, particularly in the lower RPM range, < 3k. Bogging then surging at 3k RPM. Uneven power distribution and RPM transition. Engine hesitations in the lower RPM range, < 3k. Louder idle and intermittent idle RPM hiccups. Difficult takeoffs. Loss of power and bogging when AC on. Increased fuel consumption. Vanos fault codes.
Double vanos cars with the M52TU engine (98/99-00) experience cold weather cold start idle jolts and possible stall."

Do us a favor. At idle.....film a video of what your idle does when you hit the snowflake button, then post it up. Lets have a look.

[kayger12]

I'm liking the DW approach.

With the a/c on, if I gave mine just the slightest hint of pressure on the gas pedal, she would stumble hard and just about stall every time.

I'd have to goose the gas to keep her running.