CDV delete??

[RITmusic2k]

Don't yank too hard! I was on a lonely road with my friend who had a ZSP coupe and he wanted to see how much quicker a ZHP was to the beginning of 3rd. We were very close on the 1st to 2nd shift as I watched him pull off his shift knob....LOL. The priceless WTF look on his face while hearing my friendly honk as I surged past him for a win. He's since upgraded to an E46 M3 with a shiftknob that doesn't come off while shifting.

Hah! That's awesome and funny I'll clarify, though, that I meant I really need to yank my CDV. My gearshift lever doesn't require any extra force to manipulate :-p

[Johnmadd]

Simply put the Sprintbooster just changes the response curve of the drive-by-wire throttle, it doesn't do anything as far as your DME engine mapping programming is concerned.

Shark software makes changes in your DME software programming, among them it changes the drive-by-wire response curve. It would seem to me to be redundant to have both which is probably why he was selling the SB.

Sprintbooster IMO is alot of money for what it does. If you want faster throttle response just press the throttle faster.
O
HTH....Barry

My tuner at Autobahn South recommended I avoid the Sprint Booster in lieu of a reflash.

Thanks for the very useful knowledge guys.

[az3579]

Plus the Shark has added benefits; the booster has one.

[Burn535i]

I did eeet. No need to bleed. No negative affects. Only positive.

Just trying to fully understand this DIY, but when you said there was no need to bleed is that because you pinched the soft line so no fluid came out. I want to do this mod but I don't want to have to deal with bleeding the system.

[kpro]

Burn, take a small pair of vice grips and pinch the rubber hose close to the CDV. Then take both lines off of the CDV, and then screw them together. Then release the vice grips and you're done. No need to bleed the system because you didn't loose fluid or introduce air into the lines.

[Burn535i]

Awesome, that is exactly what I was thinking would be the case but I just wanted to clarify. Thanks for the input.

[M0nk3y]

Burn, take a small pair of vice grips and pinch the rubber hose close to the CDV. Then take both lines off of the CDV, and then screw them together. Then release the vice grips and you're done. No need to bleed the system because you didn't loose fluid or introduce air into the lines.

Are the lines rubber and metal?

Wouldn't pinching them screw up the threads?

I'm going to be doing this to the M, except I was just going to bleed it

[MrMaico]

Are the lines rubber and metal?

Wouldn't pinching them screw up the threads?

I'm going to be doing this to the M, except I was just going to bleed it

Yes, similar to a brake line. Just pinch it back a ways from the metal fitting. What I did was gravity bled mine.....after the CDV is removed just open the bleeder for a bit and let the fluid drip out. Works great.