What did you do for your ZHP/ BMW / MINI today? #2

[t.er]

Thanks for the tip! I thought I had to buy a whole new BK setup so that's why I avoided them and was going to go the basic CNC adapters, sliders and uprights/mounts.

I'm guess there's some work to do to retain the electric sliders? If so, can you provide me with some details?

As for seat belts, I was going to run the Scroth 24/7 since I rarely have anyone in the backseats besides my bag or boxes. What's your opinion on that?

No problem! BK actually has instructions on this, which can be found here. Basically if you already have electric seats, you just have to remove the sliders from the car, and the fore/aft motor should also come with it. You'll need to buy an E30 window switch and either disassemble and cut the main power (4-pin) connector from your seat, or go to a junkyard and snip that connector from another car. If you're headed to a junkyard you should also snip the connector for the motor as well, again to avoid cutting the harness of your stock seat. To interface with the E30 window switch you can once again, either snip the pigtail connector off a car or you can just buy 4.8 mm female spade connectors and crimp to your wires.





As for the harness I haven't done enough research so I can't really give you advice on it, since I was always planning to run the 3-pt which I've found adequate even on track. From some quick reading I guess just make sure you find a harness which prevents submarining and I suppose you should be ok?

[t.er]

Checked my alignment, more so for the sake of testing out the new jig and rack stop. Didn't end up changing any settings but the readings I got mostly made sense.

Front:
0.9 mm toe out left, 0.5 mm toe in right
-3.0 deg camber

Rear:
~0.6 mm toe in on each side
-2.0 deg camber

Something is up with the front - either the steering isn't straight or the toe is really like that. It's hard to tell because the car drives straight-ish, but the tires have severe camber wear which could offset any moments that could cause the front to steer. Anyways at least the jig mostly works and man it's so much quicker than string on two jack stands.









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[Will]

Something is up with the front - either the steering isn't straight or the toe is really like that.

Does your rack alignment tool sit in the recess of the steering rack lip? Hard to tell from the photos. If it doesn't sit inside the lip your rack will be a couple millimeters off center.

[t.er]

Does your rack alignment tool sit in the recess of the steering rack lip? Hard to tell from the photos. If it doesn't sit inside the lip your rack will be a couple millimeters off center.

Nah, it was butted up to the end of the rack housing. Is it supposed to sit slightly inside? Turner's pic shows it butted up as well, which is odd if that's the case:




Something I should've done was measured the distance between the rack housing end and inner tie rod nut on both sides and compared. I didn't do so because with the slope of the garage the rear pads were at their highest, and the front pads were nearly on the ground. And at that point I was too lazy to put the front on jack stands to do so

[ItsRichieRich]

No problem! BK actually has instructions on this, which can be found here. Basically if you already have electric seats, you just have to remove the sliders from the car, and the fore/aft motor should also come with it. You'll need to buy an E30 window switch and either disassemble and cut the main power (4-pin) connector from your seat, or go to a junkyard and snip that connector from another car. If you're headed to a junkyard you should also snip the connector for the motor as well, again to avoid cutting the harness of your stock seat. To interface with the E30 window switch you can once again, either snip the pigtail connector off a car or you can just buy 4.8 mm female spade connectors and crimp to your wires.





As for the harness I haven't done enough research so I can't really give you advice on it, since I was always planning to run the 3-pt which I've found adequate even on track. From some quick reading I guess just make sure you find a harness which prevents submarining and I suppose you should be ok?

A few questions about wiring, let me know if you rather take this to PMs. Can I just buy the wiring on ebay? Can you verify that it's #3 on RealOEM? https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=61_1220

This is what the part # brings up: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...1903&_osacat=0

Sorry for the rookie questions, never taken these seats apart nor have I ever installed aftermarket seats.

[t.er]

A few questions about wiring, let me know if you rather take this to PMs. Can I just buy the wiring on ebay? Can you verify that it's #3 on RealOEM? https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=61_1220

This is what the part # brings up: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...1903&_osacat=0

Sorry for the rookie questions, never taken these seats apart nor have I ever installed aftermarket seats.

No problem at all - let's take this to the aftermarket seat thread. Currently at the track but I will respond there later tonight

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[YoitsTmac]

To answer your question, I put mine everywhere. Door panel outer skin, roof, floor, hatch/trunk. I was going to do a deadening install video one day showing before and after treatment. It all adds up honestly.


There are stages to a sound treatment solution. I’ll quick outline them here. Just in case someone runs across this post.

1) Stopping resonance. This is the natural vibration of the the panel. Think about a bell and how it rings when you strike it. A lot of the flat, metal panels in a car posses this ringing property. A properly damped panel will not ring and would sound “dead” and make the car feel more solid and less tinny.

2) Stopping rattles. Rattling happens when 2 panels vibrate against each other. Simple enough. They best way to stop it is to place an isolator such as closed cell foam between the interfering pieces.

3) Absorbing sounds. These are the sounds that travel through the air. They are “captured” by products like thinsulate (my personal favorite), melamine and open cell foam. It’s use is limited in a car because the absorption properties are frequency dependent. Absorbing low frequencies takes really thicccc foam!

4) Blocking sound. A barrier type material is used to prevent the sound from entering the cabin at all. MLV and lead sheeting is best for this because mass is what determines a barriers effectiveness. Only the crazy people use lead sheeting but it is the thinnest per pound of material. The barrier has to be continuous. Any breaks, gaps or holes in the barrier allows sound to leak through, reducing its effectiveness.


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Thanks for this! Added to my every growing mod list. How heavy are these materials? My diff is very loud, thinking about laying under my rear seat at the minimum

[cakM3]

I purchased Ryan's OEM BMW SIRIUS Radio module and antenna for my ZHP today


Thanks Ryan!!


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[Galapolis]

Installed the Bimmerworld Group N replica engine mounts today.



They replace the Revshift poly engine mounts.



I'm gonna keep it short:

Pros:

-Idle vibrations almost gone/barely noticeable, even with AC on
-Slightly less vibrations throughout the rev range
-Practically identical throttle response to poly
-Properly tuned mounts mean that all harmonic imbalances are now cancelled out (no more 2700rpm shaking)
-Supposedly strong enough to survive even a crash, so should be the most durable option on the market (not counting solid)

Cons:

-Effin heavy (solid rubber, at least 4 times the weight of my poly mounts)
-Vibrations are a much higher frequency now, so while less violent, they are more "present"

If I had payed the $800 that the original Group N mounts cost I would have felt extremely ripped off. For $200 I can kind of recommend them but also not really. My drivetrain mounts are matched as the Group N mounts are supposedly 30% stiffer than stock, so I also have 30% stiffer Group N style Condor transmission mounts. This combo offers literally the identical throttle response and crispness of my previous full poly combo, while being noticeably more comfortable. However it does not even remotely compare to the comfort of stock mounts, which essentially cancel out all vibrations. I haven't tried the M3 mounts yet, but they're definitely what I'd go for if I ever get another E46. Either way, every single poly bushing I've had in this car has been a disaster, which is a sentiment that I actually hear quite often among track folk. Rubber, solid or spherical is truly the holy trinity, and this latest experience confirms that again for me.

[t.er]

I haven't tried the M3 mounts yet, but they're definitely what I'd go for if I ever get another E46.

Ever so slight vibration at idle with M3 engine mounts, but you'd have to be fairly picky about that.

Either way, every single poly bushing I've had in this car has been a disaster, which is a sentiment that I actually hear quite often among track folk. Rubber, solid or spherical is truly the holy trinity, and this latest experience confirms that again for me.

I've had no issues with my poly subframe and diff mounts but ever since I swapped my rear springs you can feel and hear the rear inner wheel spinning up on corner exit. Kinda want to swap to Camry spherical RTABs, but I don't really want to deal with having to sort out a press tool for that