What did you do for your ZHP/ BMW / MINI today? #2

[t.er]

Oooooh are these the ones that replace the auto shift position display in the cluster? I love clean installs such as that. Once you get it in please post what temps you're seeing as well!

[ZHPizza]

Oooooh are these the ones that replace the auto shift position display in the cluster? I love clean installs such as that. Once you get it in please post what temps you're seeing as well!

Yeah boi! I realized the cost for this setup would be the same or less than some big goofy 52mm gauges and I had more confidence in the quality.

Ended up going with the 1.3" OLED w oil pressure and temp

Inspo:
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...ted-in-cluster

[Rovert]

Damn Trev you went pretty low right off the bat huh?

Go low or stay home.

Just took it on a punishing torture test in some of the backroads before I get a proper alignment to settle the ride height. Suspension recovers so quickly on dropoffs/dips/bumps, even if they are mid-corner. I can stay on throttle and the chassis doesn't get overwhelmed as I rocket out in a blaze of torque if I'm good with turbo throttle control which I'm not claiming to be. LOL My new problem is that I can sustain high lateral G's for longer now that I need to balance out accelerating out of apex because today I was engaging DSC at 2500RPM.

Can't wait to get alignment now to sharpen turn-in and attempt to fake dare I say..."ZHP'ness". I've got max negative camber (approx -1.3 to -1.5 for the OEM front top hats. I assume zero toe in the front or an ultra tiny bit of toe-in would be good for quicker turn-in? I'll keep the back OEM toe-in specs to keep tail in check on hard throttle. Should I keep the rear camber OEM which is prob around -1.3 to -1.8?

[t.er]

Go low or stay home.

Just took it on a punishing torture test in some of the backroads before I get a proper alignment to settle the ride height. Suspension recovers so quickly on dropoffs/dips/bumps, even if they are mid-corner. I can stay on throttle and the chassis doesn't get overwhelmed as I rocket out in a blaze of torque if I'm good with turbo throttle control which I'm not claiming to be. LOL My new problem is that I can sustain high lateral G's for longer now that I need to balance out accelerating out of apex because today I was engaging DSC at 2500RPM.

Can't wait to get alignment now to sharpen turn-in and attempt to fake dare I say..."ZHP'ness". I've got max negative camber (approx -1.3 to -1.5 for the OEM front top hats. I assume zero toe in the front or an ultra tiny bit of toe-in would be good for quicker turn-in? I'll keep the back OEM toe-in specs to keep tail in check on hard throttle. Should I keep the rear camber OEM which is prob around -1.3 to -1.8?

Front Toe-out or bust


Jk. For a daily, yeah I'd do ever so slightly toe in, just so it isn't so darty if you're cruising on the highway. Rear toe in for sure... camber, yeah I wouldn't go too crazy in the rear since you're limited with the front.

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[DeathTrap]

Interesting. Quite a lot of good info on their website. Gotta do a bit more research. Is this something a novice can potentially install? Resonance and rattling, as he describes it, is exactly what I’d like to soften a little bit if it’s possible.

Yes! It’s probably about 2 out of 10 on the difficulty scale. If you can remove the interior panels, doing this while you are in there is cake.


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[Reasoned1]

Changed the valve cover gasket on my 330xi automatic. FINALLY… A straightforward, easy-access job without tragic surprises!

[YoitsTmac]

GL with your project. Comfort Access is really cool, my F30 has it. My only complaint is that BMW only has the CA sensors on the front doors. I have seen other brands (like MB) which have the sensors on all the 4 doors.

I didn't believe this and looked up the wiring diagram and sure enough, it doesn't! that's really shocking. Fronts is better than none because you can quickly tap the front door handles, but dang!

Definitely jealous of the LSD! I should've gotten my RTAB pockets stitch-welded when I had the RACP reinforced. Oh well, not a big deal.

Yeah interesting about the door handle body mold! Initial thoughts were it would look out of place - I was thinking the handle would be quite sharp and angular but looking it up, it's not that much different to ours.

Yeah I told my friend about me doing the floor reinforcement and he sent me the video of the M3 on track then suddenly flipping in the air. He properly instilled some fear into me and I decided the $60 in plates and $150 in labor is totally worth the piece of mind while they were in there. Honestly it seems like a very rare failure that really only happens in repeated race conditions!

And yes, the LSD is super fun. I'm still comfortably in the break-in period but even like, 1/3 throttle near full lock can get you a little chirp.... Just because the wheel speed discrepancy is so high the clutches engage. The clutches are pretty loud though, but a small price to pay. I still have to do the acid test

I recommend resonix products. They’ve been tested to be one of the best on the market.

If you want to reduce creaks and rattles, you’ll need a closed cell foam type product.

Very interested in this. Where are you guys putting it? Just over the door foam?

[DeathTrap]

Very interested in this. Where are you guys putting it? Just over the door foam?

To answer your question, I put mine everywhere. Door panel outer skin, roof, floor, hatch/trunk. I was going to do a deadening install video one day showing before and after treatment. It all adds up honestly.



There are stages to a sound treatment solution. I’ll quick outline them here. Just in case someone runs across this post.

1) Stopping resonance. This is the natural vibration of the the panel. Think about a bell and how it rings when you strike it. A lot of the flat, metal panels in a car posses this ringing property. A properly damped panel will not ring and would sound “dead” and make the car feel more solid and less tinny.

2) Stopping rattles. Rattling happens when 2 panels vibrate against each other. Simple enough. They best way to stop it is to place an isolator such as closed cell foam between the interfering pieces.

3) Absorbing sounds. These are the sounds that travel through the air. They are “captured” by products like thinsulate (my personal favorite), melamine and open cell foam. It’s use is limited in a car because the absorption properties are frequency dependent. Absorbing low frequencies takes really thicccc foam!

4) Blocking sound. A barrier type material is used to prevent the sound from entering the cabin at all. MLV and lead sheeting is best for this because mass is what determines a barriers effectiveness. Only the crazy people use lead sheeting but it is the thinnest per pound of material. The barrier has to be continuous. Any breaks, gaps or holes in the barrier allows sound to leak through, reducing its effectiveness.


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[joeybananaz18]

I said goodbye




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[cakM3]

I said goodbye

You just closed a chapter... when I said goodbye to my Imola ZHP I did not know if I would ever be back in another ZHP. I'm now restoring a neglected Mysticblau ZHP so you never know...


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