Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #25741
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    879
    Quote Originally Posted by papa_g View Post
    Noticeable difference. Why did you decide to do that?


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    The rake just looked dumb IMO. I know some people like it but I'm not one of them.
    330i Base | Mysticblau | Slicktop | 6MT

  2. #25742
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    SF Bay
    Posts
    613
    Bad day for me. Long story short I told the machine shop I was going to collect my parts if they couldn’t finish it by tomorrow EOD. They gave me to the lead machinist and he said he wasn’t comfortable cutting any more material off the knuckle beyond what it rolled out of the factory with. Then he suggested a spacer under the rotor. I asked how that’d be with the wheel and he said he’d get it done. They said $500.

    Then I call back because the thickness of the spacer we discussed could be thinner because the rotor was overspaced from the knuckle. Then he said I would lose hubcentricity if I had any spacer over 3mm. Then he said he would remove 2mm from the caliper, 2mm from the knuckle, and add a 2mm spacer to get the caliper to sit in the right position. Quoted $1k. So I said nah, obviously.

    I’m not an engineer at all, but I’d be surprised if this genuinely wasn’t feasible. The neck of the caliper to the mounting holes is 13.9mm, or 10.9mm after the modifications I had made. The knuckle side is 16.1mm. Well, the knuckle is hardened steel and the caliper is aluminum. Isn’t aluminum weaker? So he was willing to get the caliper neck to 8.9mm thin aluminum but wouldn’t want the steel knuckle any thinner 14.1mm?

    I assume that in actuality, once he looked closer, he found this project too risky and a liability for a small chump of change (they shaved the caliper for $70 to its current position), not to mention overly challenging for the payoff IE: mounting the knuckle in a machinable position. Without actual engineering and probably measure the strength of the knuckle, there’s too much guess work. I can only speculate.

    So now I have 2 380mm discs, 2 M4 calipers, 2 pads (street, track), and some 1 pistons on the car for the foreseeable future.

    So today I grabbed my untouch steering knuckles and put them back on the car so I could drive my car again.

  3. #25743
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    3,131
    @YoitsTmac I cannot follow all the variables you have out there. Do you have a diagram or pics? I'm an ME and would be happy to take a look, but obviously ain't about to sign off on anything lol

  4. #25744
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    SF Bay
    Posts
    613
    Quote Originally Posted by ZHPizza View Post
    @YoitsTmac I cannot follow all the variables you have out there. Do you have a diagram or pics? I'm an ME and would be happy to take a look, but obviously ain't about to sign off on anything lol
    Thanks for offering help. I was re-drawing my schematic to make it more digestible for you, and then I re-took the measurements right now to ensure they’re accuracy.
    I took my initial measurements a year ago on the car so I didn’t even see this, but the 16.1mm of thickness that I measured on the steering knuckle is only that thick for the bolt hole. The arm itself (the arm that extends from the hub to the mounting hole for the caliper) is actually 12.9mm thin. I need about 5mm off and I would agree with my shop it’s too thin.
    So in the end I’ve bought all this M4 stuff all thanks to some janky measuring I took when I was probably tired

    The only way this will work now is if I convert to an M3 front. I don’t know if I have the front fender clearance though and there’s no precise measurement for the track increase.

  5. #25745
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Stamford, CT
    Posts
    72


    I am sure it’s not the first time you have seen this, but it is for me. Yay? Nay?


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  6. #25746
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    672
    New shifter boot? Looks nice


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    ~ 2005 330ci ZHP Silbergrau | Black cube | Leather ~
    Current Mods: Akebono brake pads, Bilstein B4 Rear Shocks, Beisan Systems VANOS Rebuild, G.A.S. DISA O-ring, Morimoto fog lights, StopTech SS brake lines, Subwoofer tennis ball mod, Switchback Angel Eyes (turn signal), Zimmermann drilled rotors.
    My project thread ---> http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...into-a-reality

  7. #25747
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Stamford, CT
    Posts
    72
    Quote Originally Posted by papa_g View Post
    New shifter boot? Looks nice


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    It’s an auto if you haven’t noticed


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  8. #25748
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    672
    Ohhh ok now I see what you did


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    ~ 2005 330ci ZHP Silbergrau | Black cube | Leather ~
    Current Mods: Akebono brake pads, Bilstein B4 Rear Shocks, Beisan Systems VANOS Rebuild, G.A.S. DISA O-ring, Morimoto fog lights, StopTech SS brake lines, Subwoofer tennis ball mod, Switchback Angel Eyes (turn signal), Zimmermann drilled rotors.
    My project thread ---> http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...into-a-reality

  9. #25749
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Branford, CT
    Posts
    16,055
    I prefer the stock setup personally...

    Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
    BP
    2005 330i ZHP / 6MT
    Imolarot / Naturbraun
    2003 330iT / 6MT
    Orientblau / Naturbraun




    It's not the car you drive, it's how you drive it.

  10. #25750
    I purchased an autofold mirror switch (with purple bottom) and autofolding M3 rep side mirrors today. Once the side mirrors arrive, I will take out the autofold motors and transplant them into my OEM M3 mirror assembly converting them into autofolding euro M3 side mirrors. I now have everything in play for a July conversion for my ZHP

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