Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #25451
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    SF Bay, CA
    Posts
    1,266
    Quote Originally Posted by sillieidiot View Post


    You supposed to just rotate it CCW while gently pulling on it. After like 2 rotations it comes off. Then to align, you just put the needle back on and just rotate it to where it bottoms out again. then push keep pushing it to where you want it to be. Do it gently without the fork lol
    ooooooo damn! Had no idea. But I still would've kept my cleaner km/h-only speedo either way. Maybe you should make these youtube vids
    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)


  2. #25452
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Branford, CT
    Posts
    16,055
    Gosh, I've removed and re-installed gauge faces and needles too many times to count. I've got the alignment down to an art...

    The trick is to put them on roughly about where they need to be. Then, take the cluster without reinstalling the front cover and plug in only the right-side connector (you facing the front of the cluster). The needles will do a sort of adjustment but will be in a slightly different position than where you put them. Then unplug the connector and adjust the needles till they're where they need to be. Plug the connector in again and check position after the self-adjustment.

    It helps to have another untouched cluster next to you, or a really good picture of an unmolested cluster, so you can see the precise positions of the needles. Not all of them sit perfectly on the bottom line at rest (like the fuel gauge, which actually sits half a needle below the bottom line), and there are variations between them as to where on the line they sit.

    The trick to easy needle positioning is to NOT push them on where they're firm. Just put them on just enough for them to not fall out when you turn the cluster front side down. They don't need to be on that tight.

    Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
    BP
    2005 330i ZHP / 6MT
    Imolarot / Naturbraun
    2003 330iT / 6MT
    Orientblau / Naturbraun




    It's not the car you drive, it's how you drive it.

  3. #25453
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    1,193
    Quote Originally Posted by t.er View Post
    Yeah, somewhat! Just been busy getting into the groove with work. Still gotta deal with swapping my cluster and going to the CBP Port at the airport, which kinda sucks since they're only open from like 9:30-4PM on weekdays. As far as the US and Canada are concerned, my car is still just a visitor, so I have to get a move on with that.

    Your move is coming up too right? Keep us posted on how that goes when you have a chance, it's a super-busy time!







    Oh man, the things I would do to hear one of those old V10s running at full tilt...

    Yeah, I read an article on Jalopnik, heard it was absolutely packed out there. Drive to survive has definitely upped how popular the sport is on this side of the pond.



    Haha. I was expecting cheaper gas over here, but nooooope with the conversion rate it's about equivalent to Ontario. I just fill up at Costco early in the morning before work, zero lineup on a weekday at that time.
    For sure, I will update zhp family of how is my moving progress is going. I can tell you for sure, that I am not planning to tow anything with my touring, which is boring for sure-
    Quote Originally Posted by PdZHP View Post
    How tough are the needle removal and replacements?
    I did it few times and it is uncomfortable for sure. I can tell you that my fuel gauge is slightly off for sure.
    Quote Originally Posted by az3579 View Post
    Gosh, I've removed and re-installed gauge faces and needles too many times to count. I've got the alignment down to an art...

    The trick is to put them on roughly about where they need to be. Then, take the cluster without reinstalling the front cover and plug in only the right-side connector (you facing the front of the cluster). The needles will do a sort of adjustment but will be in a slightly different position than where you put them. Then unplug the connector and adjust the needles till they're where they need to be. Plug the connector in again and check position after the self-adjustment.

    It helps to have another untouched cluster next to you, or a really good picture of an unmolested cluster, so you can see the precise positions of the needles. Not all of them sit perfectly on the bottom line at rest (like the fuel gauge, which actually sits half a needle below the bottom line), and there are variations between them as to where on the line they sit.

    The trick to easy needle positioning is to NOT push them on where they're firm. Just put them on just enough for them to not fall out when you turn the cluster front side down. They don't need to be on that tight.

    Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
    Hey Borond, I forgot that you did it 1000 times and definitely an expert.


    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  4. #25454
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    SF Bay, CA
    Posts
    1,266
    Quote Originally Posted by RUS_ZHP View Post
    I can tell you for sure, that I am not planning to tow anything with my touring, which is boring for sure-
    Haha you don't need to tow anything, you have the space! The beauty of a touring...

    Within 1 day, got my car imported at San Jose Airport, smog'd (thanks to recommendations on here to go to Dhillon Motorsports), and registered with the state of California. Unfortunately, I still have to WFH another day or two to get my driver's license since it's non-transferrable from up north, but at least I got all the red tape out of the way. A big driving factor was the jank speedo, which was removed within 24 hours of installation. Unfortunately there is a piece of lint here and there in the display, but meh... all is good in the world now that I am back to the clean metric speedo.
    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)


  5. #25455
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Greensboro, NC
    Posts
    3,650
    Quote Originally Posted by t.er View Post
    all is good in the world now that I am back to the clean metric speedo.
    I wish I’d known NC doesn’t care about the metric speedo because it looks so much cleaner. I’ve gone back and forth over the years about whether I’d be willing to do the math on the fly, and if I should’ve kept it, but ultimately I just go the speed of traffic these days so only having Km/h wouldn’t have been an issue. Oh well.
    Emma - 2005 BMW 330ci ZHP 6MT Estorilblau Individual

    Sportline 8s 18x8.5F - 18x9.5R | APEX ARC-8 18x8.5 Square | aFe Intake | 135i Brembo F/R Calipers | 26mm Front/20mm Rear Sway Bars | Z4 Mirror
    M3 Dead Pedal | Lexus ES300 Yellow Fog Light Retrofit | Koni Yellows/H&R Springs | Llumar CTX 40% | Coby Tri-Stitch Wheel & Boots

    Awaiting Install: M3 Wing Mirrors

  6. #25456
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Branford, CT
    Posts
    16,055
    Quote Originally Posted by 704sw View Post
    I wish I’d known NC doesn’t care about the metric speedo because it looks so much cleaner. I’ve gone back and forth over the years about whether I’d be willing to do the math on the fly, and if I should’ve kept it, but ultimately I just go the speed of traffic these days so only having Km/h wouldn’t have been an issue. Oh well.

    There's a very simple formula for calculating, and after a short while it just becomes second nature. It was easy enough where I could tell you what speed I was doing in mph at any given time rounded to the closest 5mph, and get pretty close in between those increments.

    The quick estimate is to take a base number, say for example 60mph (96kph), and add or subtract 8kph for every 5mph you go up or down. Learn where all the base speed limits are and you'll make quick work of this calculating.

    The common speed limits to learn (at least up here):
    25mph = 40kph
    30mph = 48kph
    40mph = 64kph
    55mph = 88kph
    65mph = 104kph

    You can start to see the pattern emerge and you go.


    I still have the gauge faces from your Estroil, BTW.
    BP
    2005 330i ZHP / 6MT
    Imolarot / Naturbraun
    2003 330iT / 6MT
    Orientblau / Naturbraun




    It's not the car you drive, it's how you drive it.

  7. #25457
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    SF Bay, CA
    Posts
    1,266
    Quote Originally Posted by 704sw View Post
    I wish I’d known NC doesn’t care about the metric speedo because it looks so much cleaner. I’ve gone back and forth over the years about whether I’d be willing to do the math on the fly, and if I should’ve kept it, but ultimately I just go the speed of traffic these days so only having Km/h wouldn’t have been an issue. Oh well.
    Quote Originally Posted by az3579 View Post
    There's a very simple formula for calculating, and after a short while it just becomes second nature. It was easy enough where I could tell you what speed I was doing in mph at any given time rounded to the closest 5mph, and get pretty close in between those increments.

    The quick estimate is to take a base number, say for example 60mph (96kph), and add or subtract 8kph for every 5mph you go up or down. Learn where all the base speed limits are and you'll make quick work of this calculating.

    The common speed limits to learn (at least up here):
    25mph = 40kph
    30mph = 48kph
    40mph = 64kph
    55mph = 88kph
    65mph = 104kph

    You can start to see the pattern emerge and you go.


    I still have the gauge faces from your Estroil, BTW.
    Yeah, I had my car with me for 4 months down here back in 2017, never had an issue. As long as you know what the speed limits roughly equate to, then it's fine. But then again, these limits seem to be more like suggestions, at least around here

    Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk
    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)


  8. #25458
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Irvine, CA
    Posts
    822
    Changed engine oil and filter. Went with Castrol 0w-40 and Mann filter again.

  9. #25459
    Full cooling system refresh plus a shiny CSF all aluminum radiator, oil change, and a new steering wheel installed!....again.

    Sent from my LM-F100 using Tapatalk

    AFE stage 1 CAI, Silicone Stett Intake Boots, AA Headers and Exhaust, AA Tune, Cat Delete, Hicon GT Adjustable Coilovers, Quaife Helical LSD, EVO 3 SS Kit, UUC Organic Clutch w/ UUC LW Flywheel, GTR rep carbon fiber hood, CSL rep carbon fiber trunk, CDV delete, CP Forged Pistons & SP Forged Con Rods, MotoZ projector headlights, Sony bluetooth/touch nav, & lots of love
    -Ben

  10. #25460
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    SF Bay
    Posts
    613
    Been working on a secret project and I made a massive leap in progress tonight after a two week stalemate in the R&D. I am retrofitting newer systems into the E46 from other cars and today I officially kept my retrofit kit awake. Up until now it would fall asleep within seconds of getting power. Now I’m working on a custom chip in a custom harness so anyone can do this retrofit with zero work. Give me a couple more weeks and I will reveal my shenanigans.

    Bought a ton of stuff for the new ZHP: transmission stuff, gaskets, cooling system, chassis reinforcements. My wallet bleeds for mercy.

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