What did you do for your ZHP/ BMW / MINI today? #2

[Sockethead]

Awesome work! You have a knack for figuring this stuff out.

[NoVAphotog]

So this is still a work in progress, but... I've am in the process of retrofitting "sport mode" to our cars. Unfortunately it's not exactly simple.

1) Code is present, but a couple switches are turned off. Not a big deal to fix that (especially after I was pointed to a checksum I had not yet known about).
2) The pin is not "connected" on MS45.1 DMEs. Studied the Z4 MS45.0 DME (which has the button from the factory), and soldered the appropriate resistors and capacitors to the DME. (Changes here if curious: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...8&postcount=13)

That was enough to test whether or not the input and code actually works.. and it does (in the attachment, notice that "Sport-taster" is set to "JA")

So I took a quick drive with a rigged wire to trigger the button, and the throttle is actually *much* better. I was pretty surprised at how much more responsive the car felt. Not quite S54 responsiveness, but makes switching between the two cars less jarring.

Now I have to wire up an actual sport button, which I'll use the M3 switch panel for. I'm still waiting on mine to arrive.
Wiring up the switch is easy enough. On an M3, the button shorts to ground when pressed, while the MS45 DME wants to see something between 3.5 to 10k ohms instead. Easy enough to just throw in a resistor inline with the wire.

Getting the LED to light up when the switch is on is harder. The MS45 doesn't actually have an output for the LED signal. Instead, it just changes a byte on the CAN-bus. On the Z4, the electric power steering module reads that CAN byte and triggers the LED. We don't have electric power steering, so that's a no go for the E46. So what I'll have to do is use something like an arduino to read the CAN-bus, and switch the ground to the LED pin when the right byte is broadcast.

All in all I spent quite a bit less money than I would on a shark injector or sprint booster, and I learned a lot in the process. But it's a complex enough mod that it's not as DIYable for everyone else as I had hoped.

Stuff like this is one of the many reasons I wouldn't want a *new new* car...no one has had time to really delve into the intricacies and change them. Mostly because warranty, but also because they are all just THAT much more complicated.

[BMWCurves]

So this is still a work in progress, but... I've am in the process of retrofitting "sport mode" to our cars. Unfortunately it's not exactly simple.

1) Code is present, but a couple switches are turned off. Not a big deal to fix that (especially after I was pointed to a checksum I had not yet known about).
2) The pin is not "connected" on MS45.1 DMEs. Studied the Z4 MS45.0 DME (which has the button from the factory), and soldered the appropriate resistors and capacitors to the DME. (Changes here if curious: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...8&postcount=13)

That was enough to test whether or not the input and code actually works.. and it does (in the attachment, notice that "Sport-taster" is set to "JA")

So I took a quick drive with a rigged wire to trigger the button, and the throttle is actually *much* better. I was pretty surprised at how much more responsive the car felt. Not quite S54 responsiveness, but makes switching between the two cars less jarring.

Now I have to wire up an actual sport button, which I'll use the M3 switch panel for. I'm still waiting on mine to arrive.
Wiring up the switch is easy enough. On an M3, the button shorts to ground when pressed, while the MS45 DME wants to see something between 3.5 to 10k ohms instead. Easy enough to just throw in a resistor inline with the wire.

Getting the LED to light up when the switch is on is harder. The MS45 doesn't actually have an output for the LED signal. Instead, it just changes a byte on the CAN-bus. On the Z4, the electric power steering module reads that CAN byte and triggers the LED. We don't have electric power steering, so that's a no go for the E46. So what I'll have to do is use something like an arduino to read the CAN-bus, and switch the ground to the LED pin when the right byte is broadcast.

All in all I spent quite a bit less money than I would on a shark injector or sprint booster, and I learned a lot in the process. But it's a complex enough mod that it's not as DIYable for everyone else as I had hoped.

Very interesting. Great stuff. I'm constantly impressed by your DIY savviness.

[fredo]

Inspection II Checklist completed on the Mini.
My Indy reported this, I already knew about it:

Both inner CV boots cracking
Left Rear caliper mounting problem, replace on next break job
Low pressure power steering hoses seeping
Windshield has rock chips.
Airbag light on >>> dealer will fix on July 11th

Nothing big. He said the car is in good shape.

[D1ESEL]

Washed up the M3

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

[Rovert]

Craigslist snatch!! 75% tread remaining on PSS for $310USD. 235/35 and 265/30 for my OEM 19s!

[Fenrir]

Diving board removed, black mustache refitted, bumper delete complete.



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[Johnmadd]

Diving board removed, black mustache refitted, bumper delete complete.



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Nice werk.

[Fenrir]

Nice werk.

Thanks John ^-^

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[Johnmadd]

Thanks John ^-^

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If you want to m20 swap that, let me know as I have 2 good one spare in my yard :-p