What did you do for your ZHP/ BMW / MINI today? #2

[cornercarver]

Did you just reconnect the hose to the port, now without the CDV? I've seen some gutted valves to install in place of the CDV.

Yup. There’s really no reason to buy the gutted one sold by UUC and others. The hard line just connects directly to the hose. It was a piece of cake.

Now that I’ve had a chance to drive it I can say it does make a difference; Not so much on normal gear changes, but definitely when rev-matching on downshifts. The engagement also feels more consistent. Happy I did it.

[Eugene]

Brought it home from TX to NY...let the fun begin

[az3579]

Yup. There’s really no reason anymore to buy the gutted one sold by UUC and others. The hard line just connects directly to the hose. It was a piece of cake.

Fixed.
I bought the gutted one when I bought my ZHP. It still had CPO warranty on it so it needed to look factory.

[Will]

I got my project car started and running! woohoo! A new tank of fuel should help it run a little smoother, but so far so good. No shake down drive around the block yet, I damaged the FR brake hose during disassembly so I'm waiting for a replacement. Hopefully it'll be down from the jack stands and be driven around the block this weekend.

Overall, quite relieved that the car runs and it's not puking fluids everywhere. ... it's still early in the process, so fingers crossed!

[704sw]

Lol “puking fluids.” I’m going to use that one someday...just hopefully not in reference to my own car.

[ZHPizza]

I just did my regular bedding procedure and they feel good. I still have meh pads on the rear but these are already biting good.

I do 4-6 35-40 mph stops of medium brake pressure. Then 6-8 60-70mph hard stops. Then immediately let them cool completely.

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Man I just went out on a bedding run and they're terrible now

I tried 6 stops from 80-20, then cruised at 70 for 10 minutes and had shit braking power when I went to turn around, so I did 10 quick stops from 60-20 per Zeckhausen (https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/i...Path=6446_6443) and got enough heat into them to get some fade on stops 8-10. Then I drove without brakes for 10 more minutes. I didn't touch them until pulling into the neighborhood and they had no bite at all. The pads are still measuring at 150F in the garage so maybe they needed more time to cool?

I don't see any blue on the rotors but it looks like there may be some specks of pad material left on the rotors (other than what scraped into the cross drilled holes)

Just wanted to follow up on this for anyone that comes across it in the future -- I forgot to mention that I replaced the calipers and lines at the same time that I installed the PFCZ pads & Zimmerman rotors. I bled and bled and bled and could not get a good pedal feel UNTIL I hooked up to the car with INPA and did the ABS/DSC bleed process. Got a quite a few air bubbles from that and now my pedal is rock solid. I still don't have a stellar initial bite , but I'll try bedding again now that I don't have air in my lines and see how it goes.

Also, even with air in the lines, these pads are crazy good at stopping the car. Great modulation too -- less initial bite than OE (of course), but pressing the pedal harder makes the brakes grab harder....so...how brakes should work....

[Aethir30]

Just wanted to follow up on this for anyone that comes across it in the future -- I forgot to mention that I replaced the calipers and lines at the same time that I installed the PFCZ pads & Zimmerman rotors. I bled and bled and bled and could not get a good pedal feel UNTIL I hooked up to the car with INPA and did the ABS/DSC bleed process. Got a quite a few air bubbles from that and now my pedal is rock solid. I still don't have a stellar initial bite , but I'll try bedding again now that I don't have air in my lines and see how it goes.

Also, even with air in the lines, these pads are crazy good at stopping the car. Great modulation too -- less initial bite than OE (of course), but pressing the pedal harder makes the brakes grab harder....so...how brakes should work....

Just a quick note about all PFC pads, they have less bite than their competition but will last longer.

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[ZHPizza]

Just a quick note about all PFC pads, they have less bite than their competition but will last longer.

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Ah good to know. I'll just have to get used to using more pedal. Definitely worth it for the stopping power and if these hold up to track temps like they're advertised.

[san]

Just wanted to follow up on this for anyone that comes across it in the future -- I forgot to mention that I replaced the calipers and lines at the same time that I installed the PFCZ pads & Zimmerman rotors. I bled and bled and bled and could not get a good pedal feel UNTIL I hooked up to the car with INPA and did the ABS/DSC bleed process. Got a quite a few air bubbles from that and now my pedal is rock solid. I still don't have a stellar initial bite , but I'll try bedding again now that I don't have air in my lines and see how it goes.

Also, even with air in the lines, these pads are crazy good at stopping the car. Great modulation too -- less initial bite than OE (of course), but pressing the pedal harder makes the brakes grab harder....so...how brakes should work....

Nate, can you post a picture of how the rotors look on the car now?


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[ZHPizza]

Nate, can you post a picture of how the rotors look on the car now?


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Got you now that I've washed mounting lube off the tires and wheels





Note that I painted the calipers black but left the clip silver