Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #25491
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
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    SF Bay
    Posts
    613

    What did you do for your ZHP/ BMW / MINI today? #2

    Quote Originally Posted by das boots View Post
    Are the F32 non-adaptive adaptable to the E46? I figure some modifications, mountings and wirings would be required. It would not be a cut and paste modification.

    Would also probably work best on a Sedan lens since they are removable?
    I can R&D on a sedan headlight, good call. But I think LCI sedan = Pre LCI coupe and LCI coupe is its own animal. (Someone correct me?)

    I did an excellent job adapting my Morimoto Mini D2S 4.0 projectors into the stock housing. There’s some great stock mounting points, so I’m ready to tackle something more complex. I think LED is the way to go. I loved them on the G20


    Edit: how do you guys feel about a dual projector on e46?
    Last edited by YoitsTmac; 11-19-2021 at 10:50 AM.

  2. #25492
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Stamford, CT
    Posts
    72

    What did you do for your ZHP/ BMW / MINI today? #2

    Quote Originally Posted by AM1GO View Post
    It was long overdue on my son’s daily (VCG, OFHG, CCV, etc.) Got low radiator coolant warning a few times lately, had little to no heat... adding water didn’t help much, no visible leaks, coolant not oily, oil had no coolant mixed in, pressure test passed, was losing a quart of oil each 1000 miles, had vacuum leak codes that was unable to track smoking it out....

    Decided will do all at once... learned a few things...

    1) if your hard cooling pipes not leaking DO NOT try to replace them, they WILL break, which means PAIN. You will have to take off water pump and thermostat to clean up the debris. Cleaning the residue will take half day to get proper tools, etc. Plan ahead! I didn’t. Sadly.

    2) If you install Cold Weather CCV, the only way you can install it properly is with the intake OFF because it fits TIGHT. Check vacuum plug is not missing under all of that foam covering CCV.

    3) cleaning all oil, steering fluid, and coolant will take time, budget an extra half day for it. I found it easier to use Lamp Oil to clean up gunk, takes off heavy oils and/or wax.

    4) When reinstalling thermostat, water pump - get NEW hardware... using small torque wrench and going slow on old (no rust) studs/nuts I heard specific “crack” I thought I broke the stud... it took me a day to get replacement studs and new nuts from FCP (thanks big help)... could not get one of the studs out, it would not budge using 2 nut method... had to use an extra nut with a nylon washer, that took it out. Torqued again to 80 in/pounds, extra carefully this time.

    5) taking out lower radiator hose is like wrestling with a bear, took me 30 mins, had to pry it on the side of the radiator bracket, nothing else helped.

    6) draining coolant from the block, get one of those “form-a-funnel” to avoid any mess. Was unable to torque the bolt to specs so did it “good-and-tight” specs. Replace the washer.

    7) was able to find a few bolts and nuts that disappeared years ago in the engine bay... some of them end up in the housing below brake booster.

    8) reassembling next, coolant pressure test before I take manifold goes back in. Hoping it will pass as I opted not to use any RTV on the hard pipes but had some pitted areas.

    9) PO used black RTV to glue DISA to the intake. Don’t do that! Took me good few hours to clean up DISA and intake. DISA was also rebuilt using GAS kit.

    10) if you have replaced plastic pulley with some anodized aluminum MAKE sure you have some anti-seize on the water pump, or you will have troubles taking it off. Besides mine was flaking anodized solution and looked not that great after just 2 years.

    11) Crank shaft sensor gasket... if yours original it will likely leak, replace the sensor or the gasket “while you in there...”. Mine leaked.

    12) biggest oil leak was from VANOS line, not from VCG, not from OFHG although both needed to be replaced.

    13) Intake gasket, although pliable, need to be replaced due to age and wear. Get new intake gasket even though some youtubers say you won’t need it.

    14) Throttle body gasket, if replacing ( I did ) make sure it goes in tapered side in, read the instructions on the gasket and or comparing to original. Both sides are NOT the same!

    15) Vacuum plugs on the back of the intake WILL be hard and likely cracked. Get new big and small plugs.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    And it’s back looking like an engine again. Now... got another problem... replaced mechanical tensioner along with other pulleys... and it looks like it’s defective... that... or the power steering pump... the only thing that was not replaced this time around

    https://youtube.com/shorts/8RQ6P8ERQLE?feature=share

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk on

  3. #25493
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Socal
    Posts
    1,739
    Quote Originally Posted by YoitsTmac View Post
    I can R&D on a sedan headlight, good call. But I think LCI sedan = Pre LCI coupe and LCI coupe is its own animal. (Someone correct me?)

    I did an excellent job adapting my Morimoto Mini D2S 4.0 projectors into the stock housing. There’s some great stock mounting points, so I’m ready to tackle something more complex. I think LED is the way to go. I loved them on the G20


    Edit: how do you guys feel about a dual projector on e46?
    Well it's a lot harder on the e46 facelift coupe to do, that's for sure. especially if you're trying to do a retrofit on the bixenon headlights. It's way easier to do it on halogens. there's more material to work with.

    I think it's fine. personally, I only really like them on the sedans and pre-facelift. It's due to being able to have shrouds. It just cleans it up nicer. on the fl coupe, it kind of looks weird to me.

    I like the BMW LEDs. It's a nice color and it has a lot of visibility. I don't like any of the aftermarket LED options. The beam pattern sucks. It just looks cool and instant on is nice.

  4. #25494
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Socal
    Posts
    1,739
    Quote Originally Posted by AM1GO View Post

    And it’s back looking like an engine again. Now... got another problem... replaced mechanical tensioner along with other pulleys... and it looks like it’s defective... that... or the power steering pump... the only thing that was not replaced this time around

    https://youtube.com/shorts/8RQ6P8ERQLE?feature=share

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk on
    I'm pretty sure if it's your ps pump, you would have heavy steering too. Honestly, that noise sounds to me like it's pulleys more than tensioner. Like the bearings on the pulleys. Usually the tensioner is more of a squeaky type noise.

  5. #25495
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Stamford, CT
    Posts
    72

    What did you do for your ZHP/ BMW / MINI today? #2

    Quote Originally Posted by sillieidiot View Post
    I'm pretty sure if it's your ps pump, you would have heavy steering too. Honestly, that noise sounds to me like it's pulleys more than tensioner. Like the bearings on the pulleys. Usually the tensioner is more of a squeaky type noise.
    Nope, this new mechanical tensioner was the problem. I guess there is a reason why BMW switched to hydraulic style. I was choosing the convenience of having a 16mm nut to detention... but given this I would not recommend it, replaced with a new style and no problem, purred like a kitten.


    This one gave me the noise..., here it sits on the box packed to go back to FCP.


    Here is the clip... no belts run to eliminate potential unrelated issues due to a massive job done to everything else.

    https://youtube.com/shorts/p_XHjXruK3s?feature=share

    And a run with a replacement new hydraulic tensioner.

    https://youtube.com/shorts/tHxdWu_zlyg?feature=share

    In summary, if your tensioner is due for a replacement and it’s mechanical - replace with a new hydraulic style and get an extra 50T bolt just in case you take belts often and risk stripping.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk on

  6. #25496
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    OC, CA
    Posts
    322
    Very good info.

    Quote Originally Posted by AM1GO View Post
    Nope, this new mechanical tensioner was the problem. I guess there is a reason why BMW switched to hydraulic style. I was choosing the convenience of having a 16mm nut to detention... but given this I would not recommend it, replaced with a new style and no problem, purred like a kitten.


    This one gave me the noise..., here it sits on the box packed to go back to FCP.


    Here is the clip... no belts run to eliminate potential unrelated issues due to a massive job done to everything else.

    https://youtube.com/shorts/p_XHjXruK3s?feature=share

    And a run with a replacement new hydraulic tensioner.

    https://youtube.com/shorts/tHxdWu_zlyg?feature=share

    In summary, if your tensioner is due for a replacement and it’s mechanical - replace with a new hydraulic style and get an extra 50T bolt just in case you take belts often and risk stripping.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk on


    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP, Silver Grey Metallic, Dinan: Stage 2 Software, High Flow Intake,
    Free Flow Exhaust, Front Strut Bar, Stage 2 Suspension System, Staggered Hartge Replica Wheels,
    M3 Mirrors (Side and Interior), M3 Seats

  7. #25497
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Irvine, CA
    Posts
    822
    Lots of good work and documentation, AM1GO. Glad you got that tensioner sorted out.

  8. #25498
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    SF Bay
    Posts
    613

    What did you do for your ZHP/ BMW / MINI today? #2

    Alright. What did I do to my ZHP….

    - manual swap to 6spd
    - LF30 conversion - requirement for a future project
    - front subframe swap with old car
    - engine mounts
    - coilovers
    - spark plugs
    - mechanical tensioner conversion…because the hydraulic failed.
    - UUC exhaust
    - subframe reinforcement
    - WP, thermostat, expansion tank. I had new rad hoses but forgot from all this work

    In the midst of all that, I also admired the absolute cleanest BMW valvetrain either me or my friends have ever seen…damn. Photos later for sure.

    Consequentially, a lot of this was possible by picking off my old car. So the old car got a
    - front subframe swap
    - suspension swap with the ZHP
    - removed manual transmission and exhaust system.

    Who knows what else. Hell of a weekend. Bribes two of my friends to make this all possible.

  9. #25499
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,252
    Damn, you got that all done in a single weekend? Nicely done.

  10. #25500
    Join Date
    Jan 2021
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    21
    Quote Originally Posted by YoitsTmac View Post
    Alright. What did I do to my ZHP….

    - manual swap to 6spd
    - LF30 conversion - requirement for a future project
    - front subframe swap with old car
    - engine mounts
    - coilovers
    - spark plugs
    - mechanical tensioner conversion…because the hydraulic failed.
    - UUC exhaust
    - subframe reinforcement
    - WP, thermostat, expansion tank. I had new rad hoses but forgot from all this work

    In the midst of all that, I also admired the absolute cleanest BMW valvetrain either me or my friends have ever seen…damn. Photos later for sure.

    Consequentially, a lot of this was possible by picking off my old car. So the old car got a
    - front subframe swap
    - suspension swap with the ZHP
    - removed manual transmission and exhaust system.

    Who knows what else. Hell of a weekend. Bribes two of my friends to make this all possible.
    Very nice! How bad was the manual swap? Did you change the diff too? Post up some pics!!
    '05 330CI ZHP 6MT
    '90 325i 5 speed coupe
    '02 4Runner 4WD

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