Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #7611
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Lincoln,NE
    Posts
    1,757
    Quote Originally Posted by Hermes View Post
    Put the aFe on the red car for now

    Wonderful!


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    2005 BMW 330i ZHP A08
    Dinan Stage 1
    ~ Garry Murphy

  2. #7612
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Liberty Township, OH
    Posts
    37,935
    Quote Originally Posted by JupiterBMW View Post
    Car is on jack stands, all wheels off, disassembly has begun. The project?? Brakes...

    I ordered a full Turner Motorsport package recently...

    StopTech Cross Drilled rotors
    StopTech SS lines
    StopTech street performance pads
    New sensors
    ATE Type 200 fluid
    new front calipers
    TMS brass caliper guide bushings

    I will also be painting the calipers black to give them a clean look. Along with this, I'll be pulling the rear fenders a bit so that I can squeeze the 10mm spacers back there. And then a full detail and Leatherique treatment...

    All this before I head to Sebring on Thursday...
    Just as a heads up for the future, I think Ray (Smilez- member here) sells this same exact stuff at pretty deep discounts, and it helps him out.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
    Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs l Maple Interior Trim

  3. #7613
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Salt Lake City, UT
    Posts
    6,871
    Quote Originally Posted by danewilson77 View Post
    Just as a heads up for the future, I think Ray (Smilez- member here) sells this same exact stuff at pretty deep discounts, and it helps him out.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
    +1 unbeatable pricing from Ray. Can't wait to talk to him again.

    Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
    In the market for an E90 M3

  4. #7614
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Salt Lake City, UT
    Posts
    6,871
    Quote Originally Posted by Hermes View Post
    Put the aFe on the red car for now

    How's fitment? Mine doesn't fit too well.

    Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
    In the market for an E90 M3

  5. #7615
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    202
    Quote Originally Posted by mimalmo View Post
    We need to get some audio outside the car.


    You can just barely hear mine at 10:15 as it's drowned out by the car ahead of me. I had stock ZHP exhaust and a Gruppe M intake. It made a nice growl.

    Good call. Once it's nicer outside I'll see what I can do.

    I noticed me and my M3 at 2:50, thanks for posting that video. Your car was looking great, as always.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    -Ben

  6. #7616
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    32.8 N, 117.3 W
    Posts
    7,640
    Quote Originally Posted by Avetiso View Post
    How's fitment? Mine doesn't fit too well.

    Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
    I don't like the shield. The shield on the Stage 2 looks better designed, otherwise I like it

  7. #7617
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    22841
    Posts
    9,921
    Some things I did on the wife's car include removing some horrible fm transmitter that was installed by the previous owner to use as an aux input. Then removed all of the exterior door/fender trim since it was all coming off. Going to just buy all new trim with clips.

  8. #7618
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    VA/DC
    Posts
    14,445
    Quote Originally Posted by Avetiso View Post
    How's fitment? Mine doesn't fit too well.

    Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
    The one I put on Colin's car seemed to be fine iirc.


    Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

  9. #7619
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Silicon Valley
    Posts
    1,630
    Yesterday I read and cleared a P0171 code (Bank 1 too lean) and cleaned my MAF sensor. A few weeks ago I got a similar code like P0174 but just cleared it without fixing anything. One possibility is the aFe blue (oiled) filter is contaminating the MAF. I've had the aFe for about 15 months and have received lean codes 3 or 4 times. Another possibility is the lower intake boot has cracked (I replaced it 3 years ago) or air is leaking in through my DISA or CCV. DISA has the GAS upgrade but CCV might be original (nearly 11 years old). Next step in that area is replace the CCV and associated 4 hoses. At that time I'll inspect the lower intake boot, clean the IACS (cleaned 2 or 3 years ago) and clean the throttle body (never cleaned AFAIK).

    Yesterday I was at my daughter's school helping build or paint the set for an upcoming musical, when we had to take a break to let some paint dry. I went home, cleared the code, cleaned the MAF, and went back to the school to help clean up the painting supplies.

    Today I replaced the rear stainless braided brake lines (from ECS Tuning) with new BimmerWorld stainless brake lines. The ECS rear lines were a little too short and the BW ones are significantly longer--I will measure both and post the details in the Brakes section. No visible signs of failure on the ECS Tuning lines, just figured 3 years is a reasonable replacement interval, especially since some weight is hanging on them whenever I let the suspension droop fully with disconnected shocks. That shouldn't be a problem with the longer BimmerWorld lines. Next step is replace front brake lines.

    Also rebuilt rear calipers with Ate rebuild kits, which contain just a new O-ring and dust boot. They were $25 each from BimmerWorld and while I appreciate their presumed high quality, I noticed RockAuto sells Centric kits for $4 each, and O'Reilly/Kragen sells their own brand (BrakeBest) for $3.50 each. Stop! Yes I know it's the brakes, but when I rebuild the fronts I'll probably get the Centric kits. Rear pistons were in great shape, and in fact I'm not sure they even needed a rebuild. My rear inner brake pads wear faster than the rear outer during track days and one side wore faster than the other so I suspected sticky calipers.

  10. #7620
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Santa Cruz, CA
    Posts
    1,338
    Quote Originally Posted by LivesNearCostco View Post
    Yesterday I read and cleared a P0171 code (Bank 1 too lean) and cleaned my MAF sensor. A few weeks ago I got a similar code like P0174 but just cleared it without fixing anything. One possibility is the aFe blue (oiled) filter is contaminating the MAF. I've had the aFe for about 15 months and have received lean codes 3 or 4 times. Another possibility is the lower intake boot has cracked (I replaced it 3 years ago) or air is leaking in through my DISA or CCV. DISA has the GAS upgrade but CCV might be original (nearly 11 years old). Next step in that area is replace the CCV and associated 4 hoses. At that time I'll inspect the lower intake boot, clean the IACS (cleaned 2 or 3 years ago) and clean the throttle body (never cleaned AFAIK).

    Yesterday I was at my daughter's school helping build or paint the set for an upcoming musical, when we had to take a break to let some paint dry. I went home, cleared the code, cleaned the MAF, and went back to the school to help clean up the painting supplies.

    Today I replaced the rear stainless braided brake lines (from ECS Tuning) with new BimmerWorld stainless brake lines. The ECS rear lines were a little too short and the BW ones are significantly longer--I will measure both and post the details in the Brakes section. No visible signs of failure on the ECS Tuning lines, just figured 3 years is a reasonable replacement interval, especially since some weight is hanging on them whenever I let the suspension droop fully with disconnected shocks. That shouldn't be a problem with the longer BimmerWorld lines. Next step is replace front brake lines.

    Also rebuilt rear calipers with Ate rebuild kits, which contain just a new O-ring and dust boot. They were $25 each from BimmerWorld and while I appreciate their presumed high quality, I noticed RockAuto sells Centric kits for $4 each, and O'Reilly/Kragen sells their own brand (BrakeBest) for $3.50 each. Stop! Yes I know it's the brakes, but when I rebuild the fronts I'll probably get the Centric kits. Rear pistons were in great shape, and in fact I'm not sure they even needed a rebuild. My rear inner brake pads wear faster than the rear outer during track days and one side wore faster than the other so I suspected sticky calipers.
    That's a lot of good work done! Top job!

    11 years on the original CCV is a no-brainer to replace. I had only 9 years on mine (92k mi) and it was toast. All hoses simply crumbled in my hands. It's likely that there's a possible leak due to that. While you're down there, I also suggest cleaning the idle control valve (ICV), you'll be removing it anyways. ICV tends to get sticky with the gunk. Let me know if you've got questions about this job. I've done mine a few months ago so it's all still fresh in my mind. Also, that's a good time to do the Oil Filter Housing Gasket (if you haven't already). To do the CCV, especially the winter version, you need room to wiggle things together. Removing the alternator really helps for that. With alternator out of the way, the OFHG is only 6 bolts away.
    Call me Giya (sounds just like Karmann Ghia) | '05 ZHP Coupé AT - Sparkling Graphite Metallic | Project thread


    Wear Italian, Kiss French, Drink Russian, Drive German

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