Trunk not opening properly

[BimmerWill]

I've noticed on several occasions that my trunk doesn't unlock with the key fob or the button in the footwell properly. The lock will actuate but then lock back again before I open the trunk. Is this an issue with the locking assembly or are the struts starting to fail? I've noticed that I've had to push it up more than im use to in order for it to stay in the upright position.

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[Hermes]

sounds like the trunk shocks are bad and not pushing it up far enough to open since you can't get it to stay up

[Ryans323i]

Sounds like there could be two issues. 1. The struts are failing so the trunk is going up and staying up. 2. The GM5 could be having issues. That is, if the trunk doesn't unlock when you unlock it with the key fob. If it's unlocking, and just not popping up, then it's just the struts.

[BimmerWill]

Its unlocking so it must be the struts. That was my first thought thanks for the confirmation. Should be pretty straight forward fix.

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[Washburn]

I am having the same problem, followed by 'trunk not locking and trunk open light' on the dash. Mine is probably the wiring or actuator relate though:
Does yours do a DOUBLE noise when you open it? That's what mine does, with the key fob or the button inside: it makes TWO clicks and opens AND locks back up really fast! - then when I finally DO get it open, and close later, it will sometimes not lock and the dash light comes on - BUT i can still lock it by inserting the KEY. Sometimes it will just lock, after I slam it down about 5 times..(without the key)

[Hermes]

on mine the trunk actuator works, shocks are good, but my GM5 doesn't like the button on my keys

[BimmerWill]

I am having the same problem, followed by 'trunk not locking and trunk open light' on the dash. Mine is probably the wiring or actuator relate though:
Does yours do a DOUBLE noise when you open it? That's what mine does, with the key fob or the button inside: it makes TWO clicks and opens AND locks back up really fast! - then when I finally DO get it open, and close later, it will sometimes not lock and the dash light comes on - BUT i can still lock it by inserting the KEY. Sometimes it will just lock, after I slam it down about 5 times..(without the key)

Yes! It is doing the double noise opening and then locking back again. I've noticed this is much more prevalent in colder weather. When its warm or the car has been driven longer it no longer does it. My thoughts are still pointing towards the strut inserts as their performance when starting to fail is reduced further in colder weather. I could be wrong but I feel replacing them as well as some white lithium on the locking mechanism is a good place to start hammering out the cause.

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[Washburn]

Let me know if that works -
all the reading (almost all) i did online pointed to a kinked/broken wire loom or a bad actuator. Struts seem simpler.

However, if it's the struts that are preventing it from being open (which I can sort of see), then how can it also prevent it being closed? (in my case, after I get it open, I can't close it like normal, and have to use the key to do it - meaning inserting the key into lock and turning - and even THEN the 'trunk open' light comes on the dash!) - THIS is what leads me to believe this is electronics/electrical related....but I might be wrong...

Does yours also have trouble staying closed afterwards, or does it close like normal, with one try?

[BlackNTan]

I have the exact same problem with my trunk release (the double click and stays closed)

[BimmerWill]

I haven't had an issue closing just opening that I can remember.

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