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Thread: Post VANOS Rebuild Issues: Rough Idle + Popping Sound

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Exclamation Post VANOS Rebuild Issues: Rough Idle + Popping Sound

    Car: 2004 ZHP(M54B30 Double Vanos)

    I'm having an issue with my car after installing the Beisan systems seals and anti-rattle kit. The actual re-building of the VANOS systems was a breeze especially with the directions provided by Rajaje . No complaints here.

    I did however break a VANOS bolt and it fell into the exhaust spline shaft. I ordered the German Auto Solutions double VANOS cam timing tool kit and removed the broken bolt from the spline shaft. I had to re-time the motor and got everything timed correctly. I verified by manually turning the crank clockwise twice and:
    -Made sure the cam lock blocks sat evenly with the head
    -Verified the dots on the back of the cams were facing upwards
    -Verified the harmonic balancer was showing TDC with both cam lobes facing each other
    -Used locking pin to lock TDC on bellhousing


    I made sure everything was put back together properly using all new gaskets, washers, seals, etc. I installed new spark plugs and verified all of the wiring and connections. When starting, the idle is very rough. It seems like it is misfiring on many cylinders. After the engine runs for a few minutes a very loud "popping sound" comes from the intake manifold area. I immediately turned the car off and haven't started it since. The sound is identical to this:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=Bv8x49g8STc

    2 weeks ago I completely overhauled the CCV system with all new hoses and the valve. I cleaned the throttle body and ICV. The car ran flawlessly afterward.

    I'm thinking I've missed a sensor or bumped the crank position sensor loose after removing the locking pin from the crankshaft on the bell housing.

    If you can provide any feedback at all, I'd appreciate it greatly. I'm sorry if I've not made myself clear or the post is somewhat "wacky". It's 1:45am and I've been at it for 14 hours....

    Thanks Mafia,


    Wyatt

  2. #2
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    I've heard timing one of these is a bitch. No help here, other than re-do it.
    "Flame suit NOT REQUIRED!!!"
    Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs

  3. #3
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    Thanks Dane. I used new plugs. I pulled code P0303. I check the new plugs and cylinders1,2, and 3 are fouled.

    I tried the old plugs again but still the same issue. I'm going to take it all apart and start again. I'll keep you all posted. If you have any suggestions feel free to chime in. I haven't driven the ZHP In 6 days.... I'm upset.

  4. #4
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    Interesting one to say the least.

    My first thought before I read past where you posted the video was something left unplugged or the intake CPS. I then saw that you came to the same conclusion. I think you're on the right track.

    Keeping fingers crossed that it's something simple.
    -Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.
    ZHP Pre-Ride Briefing

    2005 ZHP, Alcantara, Silver Cube, Nav, Sharked, BMW Perf Intake, BMW Perf CF Strut Brace, CF Valve/Fuel Rail Covers, Shadowline Grills, CF Splitters, Fog Light Inserts, LED Interiors/Plate Lights, Euro-mirrors, CDV Delete, Beisan vanos, GAS DISA, BP Coded

    2017 Alfa Romeo Giulia Q4; Sport Package, CW Package, Nav, Sunroof

  5. #5
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    Anything I should check out before taking it all apart? I know re-timing the motor wouldn't hurt, but if there is something I could check before wrenching for another 5 hours... well that would be nice. I'm stumped guys.

  6. #6
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    Make sure you hooked up all the sensors and hooked them up correctly. That octopus of wires can get confusing. Use the Bently manual and carefully check your connections. I mixed up a sensor connect and had similar problem.

  7. #7
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    I pulled the valve cover and inspected everything. All looks fine! Thank goodness. CPS on bell housing was connected properly, CPS on head on(left side of VANOS) connected, thermostat connected, VANOS connected, grounds for spark plugs connected securely, coil pack wires connected securely.... I'm running out of ideas fellas. I'm going to grab some breakfast and think about it, then start the re-timing process.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by wertyu78 View Post
    Anything I should check out before taking it all apart? I know re-timing the motor wouldn't hurt, but if there is something I could check before wrenching for another 5 hours... well that would be nice. I'm stumped guys.
    KG has a good point. Ensure intake and exhaust CPS's are connected properly as well as vanos solonoid. Do a once over on every. Change the plugs....try to start without installing everything again (covers, etc...)

    EDIT: I see your post above now.
    "Flame suit NOT REQUIRED!!!"
    Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs

  9. #9
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    That's what I'm thinking intake and exhaust reversed.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by echo46 View Post
    That's what I'm thinking intake and exhaust reversed.
    Intake and exhaust sensors reversed?

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