Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #21
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    Mine was after I sealed with simonize glass coat (free at work, $500 job to customers lol, don't get ripped off when you buy a car)
    - Evan - Karting Thread - YouTube -


  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by E_Rak View Post
    Mine was after I sealed with simonize glass coat (free at work, $500 job to customers lol, don't get ripped off when you buy a car)
    I've never heard of that before. Is it like spraying on a new clear coat or something?

    Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

    '01 330i

  3. #23
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    That's what it is advertised as, a lifetime clearcoat enhancement sort of thing. but really it's just a sealer. Essentially it's a synthetic, long lasting wax. It will make your paint bead for about three or four months before it breaks down.
    - Evan - Karting Thread - YouTube -


  4. #24
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    Sounds pretty sweet if its free...don't think I would want to shell out 500 for it though lol

    Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

    '01 330i

  5. #25
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    Especially when you consider you can buy an entire bottle of similar or better sealant for around twenty dollars
    - Evan - Karting Thread - YouTube -


  6. #26
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    Trying to decide whether to go with sealant or a wax.

    Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

    '01 330i

  7. #27
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    Apr 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by BimmerWill View Post
    Trying to decide whether to go with sealant or a wax.

    Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
    Both.

    Seal then wax the paint. That's what I did and my car still beads up nicely.

    I used Wolfgang's Deep Gloss 3.0 paint sealant then topped with a paste wax of my choice.

  8. #28
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    Feb 2011
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    Here's a good article I found!

    Some detailers find that a polymer sealant tends have a flat, silvered mirror look. Adding a Carnauba wax to the surface provides depth of shine, gloss, jetting (the so called ‘wet look’) and a warmth to the paint surfaces overall look. Bear in mind that how a paint surface ‘looks’ is very subjective and tends to invoke an emotional reaction rather than a logical one 95% of an applied wax comprises out gassed solvent that is wiped away, whereas 65% of a polymer sealant that is applied remains.

    Detailers who prepare show cars will often layer a Carnauba wax on top of a synthetic wax; the synthetic wax acts as a gloss layer, while the carnauba wax adds depth and a so called wet-look (jetting) appearance

    Polymer sealants

    Need a porous surface to bond to, they initially adhere by surface tension and then after a period in which the solvents /oils in the carrier system vaporize (outgas) the polymers cross-link to form a covalent (molecular) bond to the surface. This process usually requires 12-24 hours, which are time and temperature and / or humidity dependent.

    Note that drying and curing are two different processes. Drying generally refers to evaporation of the solvent or thinner, whereas curing (cross-linking) refers to polymerization of the binder, which imparts adhesion, binds the pigments together, and strongly influences such properties as gloss potential, exterior durability, flexibility, and toughness.

    When polymer chains are linked together extensively by chemical cross linking - the formation of covalent bonds between chains; the polymer is harder and more difficult to melt. Curing is required to allow the monomers (polymer building blocks) to attach to the surface and to polymerize into a crystal-clear, impervious film.

    It is very important to allow polymers to cure for 12 hours after the haze has been wiped off. If the coating is exposed to contamination such as oil, rain, water, cleaners, etc. before it has cross-linked, the contaminants may interfere with the film, preventing the polymer from achieving its maximum performance and durability. A polymer, unlike wax forms a molecular bond with paint once it’s had enough time to cross-linking, usually 12 – 24 hour.

    A unique aspect of polyurethane chemistry is that the hydrogen bonding acts as an additional crosslink, but also allows thermoplastic flow, which helps the paint surface to retain its elasticity and its tensile strength to relieve mechanical stress. The basic structure of a polyurethane clear coat features a soft segment (polyol or tetramethylene ether) which gives it flexibility and elasticity. There is also a hard segment (polymerization) that has high urethane density, which gives the coating hardness and tensile strength

    Carnauba wax

    Carnauba in today's wax formulas functions mostly as a carrier; it’s used to keep the polymers and oils on your car's surface. Only a small portion of your vehicle's shine comes from the wax itself. Carnauba is translucent at best with only minimal light reflection. It is among the hardest of natural waxes, being harder than concrete in its pure form. Its major disadvantage is its lack of durability compared to a polymer or nano coating, for this reason its usually used for its aesthetics

    This sacrificial barrier is all that stands between the environmental contaminants and the paint film surface and this renewable barrier is probably less than 0.1 µ (100 nm, 0.000 4 Mils or 0.000 004 inch) thick. An applied paint protection product is the barrier that provides protection for automotive paintwork besides the clear coat paint.

    An organic wax also provides a sacrificial surface that will resist acid (salt brine, bird excrement, acidic rain, etc) better than a polymer, which forms a molecular bond with the paint, whereas a an organic wax forms a semi-hard protective shell (although it lacks durability)

    Paint Surface Protection

    Paints that is subject to ultra violet radiation (UV-B) and environmental contaminant (acid rain industrial fallout, brake and rail dust, road salt brine, etc) exposure leads to gloss and colour instability (photosynthesis or photo-oxidation) and surface stains.

    • An organic wax, contrary to popular opinion, or marketing, does not contain natural UV protection; the wax protects the leaves due to its thickness and the fact that it’s opaque. It does however provide a sacrificial surface that will resist acid (salt brine, bird excrement, acidic rain, etc) better than a polymer, which forms a molecular bond with the paint, whereas a an organic wax forms a semi-hard protective shell (although it lacks durability)
    • Polymer sealants are resistant to UV-B radiation and offer durable protection for a paint surface.
    • Nanotechnology coatings due to something called the Lotus effect offer resistance to dirt as they do not allow adhesion, they are also scratch resistant.
    --Trevor--
    Vancouver, BC

  9. #29
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    Nice little read right there ^^

    Quote Originally Posted by Johal E32 View Post
    Both.

    Seal then wax the paint. That's what I did and my car still beads up nicely.

    I used Wolfgang's Deep Gloss 3.0 paint sealant then topped with a paste wax of my choice.
    This is ideal, seal the car and stack a few layers of wax on top!
    - Evan - Karting Thread - YouTube -


  10. #30
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    Apr 2012
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    Jupiter, FL
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    Great info Trevor... I still haven't detailed my car since I've bought it and after washing it yesterday, I've realized just how bad it needs to be done... I will be doing the necessary steps to make her look awesome for the reunion...
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