Lean codes, fuel delivery issues?

[static667]

As most of you know, I swapped out my stock 2.5 liter for a 3.0 back in December. I have not been able to track down the source of my lean running condition. I've got the classic "lean bank one, lean bank two" with misfires across the board codes. My symptoms are, crappy throttle response, surging idle when slowing down and sometimes at a stop, stuttering on light acceleration, and low idle. The engine that I installed had the matching intake manifold along with injectors and fuel rail.
So far I have:
Flashed the DME three times with different programming
Changed the fuel pump and filter
Ran several courses of Lucas injector cleaner
Done an ether vacuum leak test
Cleaned and changed the ICV several times

All of the following parts are new that I replaced on install of the engine:
DISA valve
Upper and lower intake boot
MAF sensor
Both pre-cat O2 sensors
NGK laser platinum plugs
VANOS seals
All major gaskets
PCV valve
Throttle body and gasket
All vacuum hoses
M3 timing chain tensioner
Oil pump nut
Front and rear shaft seals

What should I try next? It seems like it really is running lean and not just the computer saying so. Could I have some trash in the fuel rail? I'm thinking about pulling the fuel hose loose at the outlet side of the filter and blowing air through from the fron of the fuel rail. I'm at a bit of a loss here.

Sent from my yet to be hacked GS3.

[Dave_B]

CCV hoses? I see you said valve, but did you re-use old hoses?

I'd assume, based on symptoms you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Have you done any smoke testing yet?

[Johnmadd]

Is there a way to test the brake booster... if you pump your brake pedal (multiple times fast) at idle does the idle change? Also, is there a valve between the booster and the vacuum lines?

[BimmerWill]

Is the fuel pressure regulator on the filter set at a different level on the 325 vs 330? Stock filter may be downsizing the fuel you need? This is just completely out of left field but something that popped into my head.

[static667]

CCV hoses? I see you said valve, but did you re-use old hoses?

I'd assume, based on symptoms you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Have you done any smoke testing yet?

I gave the CCV hoses a pretty good inspection before I reused them. There could be one with an issue. I'll have to light a cigar early on Sunday and smoke test the area.

Is there a way to test the brake booster... if you pump your brake pedal (multiple times fast) at idle does the idle change? Also, is there a valve between the booster and the vacuum lines?

I don't think there is a problem involving the brake vacuum lines but, I'm going to get someone to help with that while I'm smoking on Sunday.

Is the fuel pressure regulator on the filter set at a different level on the 325 vs 330? Stock filter may be downsizing the fuel you need? This is just completely out of left field but something that popped into my head.

I had that thought as well but, they run the same filter/regulator.

[kayger12]

I'm still thinking brake booster related.

Sent from my kick-A Galaxy S3

[Hornung418]

Brake vac lines seem suspect as is the CCVV.

The vac lines have a one way valve that mounts to the manifokd and runs to the F connection on the intake boot and the lower end atraches beneath the throttle body. That vac line should be remoced and thoroughly inspected and all mounting points cleaned.

If the CCVV is original to the chassis, replace it with a new one.

Inspect the SAP and valve that mounts to the head. Bad hoses will allow condensation build up and rust the pump and valve. The vac lines that run behind the manifold have one purpose; provide positive vacuum to the pump. Inspect the lines AND check valve that mounts on the back of the manifold.

Only other option left could be a faulty MAF...But you bought that new unused.

Best of luck, Kyle.

From a GS3, this was sent.

[static667]

Brake vac lines seem suspect as is the CCVV.

The vac lines have a one way valve that mounts to the manifokd and runs to the F connection on the intake boot and the lower end atraches beneath the throttle body. That vac line should be remoced and thoroughly inspected and all mounting points cleaned.

If the CCVV is original to the chassis, replace it with a new one.

Inspect the SAP and valve that mounts to the head. Bad hoses will allow condensation build up and rust the pump and valve. The vac lines that run behind the manifold have one purpose; provide positive vacuum to the pump. Inspect the lines AND check valve that mounts on the back of the manifold.

Only other option left could be a faulty MAF...But you bought that new unused.

Best of luck, Kyle.

From a GS3, this was sent.

The CCV is brand new and all of the vacuum lines run behind and around the head are new, as well. I'll go through all of my vacuum lines again and smoke test it this weekend.

Sent from my yet to be hacked GS3.

[static667]

I built a smoke tester and checked out my car yesterday. There were no leaks to be found. I called my neighnor over to check out the contraption. After messing with it and not finding anything, we brainstormed amd decided it may be a DOA MAF. I ran around with it unplugged today and it runs better. Going to be calling ECS Tuning, where I ordered it, and seeing about a warranty exchange. I really believe that is the issue. Thoughts?

Sent from my yet to be hacked GS3.

[Dave_B]

I've understood it as this.

Car running, unplug MAF. If no change in idle, then the MAF is done for.

I tested this too when checking my lean codes. As I pulled MAF connector, car almost died and gave me 2 additional codes.