Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Montréal
    Posts
    26

    Post CCV - VCG - VANOS and other Electrical problem

    Hi!

    So I did :
    - a vanos rebuild
    - CCV
    - VCG
    - Cooling system (Water pump, thermostat, Exp. Tank)
    - cleaning DISA - ICV and other

    and now that everything is back togheter, I have a weird issue. I haven't started the car yet but I seem to have an electrical problem!

    While filling up my coolant, I started the blower motor at min and my lights in the car were fluctuating every 1-2 sec. My xenon were working but my radio wasent. When pressing the radio button, you could hear the cd loading but no sound was comming up.

    After I saw this, I checked every electrical connector I touched during the process, disconnecting them and reconnecting them. Everything seems to be fine.

    After checking everything I noticed that the heater control valve (64118369805) was super hot.

    I immediatly disconnected the batery in the trunk. Im afraid to start the car, what do you guys think??

    Thanks!

    Max

    Aux Input -/- Burger spacers -/- Tri-Stitch Coby Wheel -/- M3 Projector Retrofit -/- VANOS rebuild -/- CVV replacement

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    4,922
    Had you disconnected the battery before you the T-stat, VCG, VANOS and all that?

    Bad battery connection? Where is that heater control valve? I can go see if mine gets hot.
    325i, 2005, 5MT, Silvergrey, leatherette, Sport package; CDV delete, KONI STR-T & KYB Excel-G, Weisslichts, Stewart H2O pump

    328i, 2010, 6MT, Spacegrey, dakota leather, M-sport packages; has a 330 intake but no tune - yet
    http://s900.photobucket.com/user/othibau/media/Junesig.jpg.html][IMG]http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/ac208/othibau/Junesig.jpg

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Montreal, Canada
    Posts
    1,939
    Ok so you haven't started the car at all yet? It's supposed to be hot when the car is running.

    Oli, it's right under the MAF, mounted to the drivers side of the frame in the engine bay. 3 hose connections on it.

    Could just be a dead battery. Check voltage on hidden OBC menu.
    Alex'16 Melbourne Red 328d Touring
    M Sport + M Performance Package

    Gone, but not forgotten: '03 Imola Red 330i ZHP - 6MT


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    4,922
    ^merci Alexandre, that is the one I was thinking of. Tied up with rubber grommets?
    325i, 2005, 5MT, Silvergrey, leatherette, Sport package; CDV delete, KONI STR-T & KYB Excel-G, Weisslichts, Stewart H2O pump

    328i, 2010, 6MT, Spacegrey, dakota leather, M-sport packages; has a 330 intake but no tune - yet
    http://s900.photobucket.com/user/othibau/media/Junesig.jpg.html][IMG]http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/ac208/othibau/Junesig.jpg

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Montréal
    Posts
    26
    Quote Originally Posted by Oli77 View Post
    ^merci Alexandre, that is the one I was thinking of. Tied up with rubber grommets?
    Exactly that one! Part #2 on that diagram : http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...=64&fg=18&hl=4.

    Alex, the car was never started and the valve was super hot! All I did was turning the blower moter at min and temp at max (to open the heater core).

    One last thing, you know th e sound the car makes when you switch you start the blower motor. It eventualy stops after 4-8 seconds. Just before disconnecting my battery, my car made that sound for like 30 seconds. It may be just that my battery was dead, what do you think?

    If I charge my battery tommorow and the sound stops, do you think I can damage my car if I start it??

    Thanks again guys!

    Aux Input -/- Burger spacers -/- Tri-Stitch Coby Wheel -/- M3 Projector Retrofit -/- VANOS rebuild -/- CVV replacement

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Montreal, Canada
    Posts
    1,939
    Flickering lights and dead radio make me be almost certain it's a dead battery.

    I think that the worst that can happen with a dead heater valve is no heat, but someone might wanna chime in on that.
    Alex'16 Melbourne Red 328d Touring
    M Sport + M Performance Package

    Gone, but not forgotten: '03 Imola Red 330i ZHP - 6MT


  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Montréal
    Posts
    26
    Battery was dead! Well at 11,62 to be exact, but that sems to be sufficient to cause some issues on our cars!

    Car is now running great except I had to disconnect the heater control valve because it still gets hot!

    Had thicking sound after the whole repair but adding a little oil solved the problem.

    One last question! When I press the hose going to the Exp tank from the thermostat I can ear air getting out of the exp tank by the cap. I think it not normal, do you think my cap is broken?

    Aux Input -/- Burger spacers -/- Tri-Stitch Coby Wheel -/- M3 Projector Retrofit -/- VANOS rebuild -/- CVV replacement

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    ND
    Posts
    1,456
    Quote Originally Posted by BiTurbo View Post
    Battery was dead! Well at 11,62 to be exact, but that sems to be sufficient to cause some issues on our cars!

    Car is now running great except I had to disconnect the heater control valve because it still gets hot!

    Had thicking sound after the whole repair but adding a little oil solved the problem.

    One last question! When I press the hose going to the Exp tank from the thermostat I can ear air getting out of the exp tank by the cap. I think it not normal, do you think my cap is broken?
    Hi, I just tried squeezing my upper rad hose (cold engine) and mine makes a clicking sound in the expansion tank cap. I assume it's the check valve inside it moving slightly. Couldn't hear anything that sounded like air escaping.

    Not sure why your heater valve would be getting so hot. I'd consider just replacing it.

    Barry

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Montréal
    Posts
    26
    Thanks alot!

    I replaced my exp tank cap and now the system is completely sealed! As for the valve, I will replace it as soon as possible!

    Everything is perfect except that valve now!

    Thanks all!

    Quote Originally Posted by MrMaico View Post
    Hi, I just tried squeezing my upper rad hose (cold engine) and mine makes a clicking sound in the expansion tank cap. I assume it's the check valve inside it moving slightly. Couldn't hear anything that sounded like air escaping.

    Not sure why your heater valve would be getting so hot. I'd consider just replacing it.

    Barry
    Last edited by BiTurbo; 04-17-2013 at 04:10 PM.

    Aux Input -/- Burger spacers -/- Tri-Stitch Coby Wheel -/- M3 Projector Retrofit -/- VANOS rebuild -/- CVV replacement

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Long island, New York
    Posts
    1,493
    Great trouble shooting.

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