26mm M3 swaybar install with Powerflex bushings and adjustable end-links. What else to take care of ?

[Imola.ZHP]

About a year ago I had the popping sound in the front. Popping occured at slower speeds and when in reverse. I replaced the end links and the popping disappeared. When I inspected them they were in pretty bad shape. I replaced with Lemforder/

This is the noise, I always back into my side of my garage, so as I pass the driveway, slowly, come to a stop, put the car in reverse and as I start to back up there is always a "pop." I was thinking (and already ordered FCAB'S). I think sometimes it happens going forward at stop lights too, but it's more difficult to hear...

I read somewhere that you only get preload on the swaybar if you lower one side more than the other. If both sides are at the same height and swaybar links are same length (or disconnected), there should be no load on the swaybar. If you put more weight on one side (e.g. passenger, or driver eats really big turkey dinner) or lower one side more than the other for corner balancing, then the swaybar will be preloaded. You can use adjustable end links to eliminate this preload.

In the back, adjustable end-links also help prevent the swaybar from hitting things. The stock rear swaybar just squeezes in there so if the aftermarket sway is thicker, longer at the ends (for adjustability), or you lower your car a lot, it may hit the axle half-shaft or lower control arm and you can adjust the end link to stop that.

Thanks for the info!

[wertyu78]

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...order-endlinks

Damn! I already bought some.

[wertyu78]

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...order-endlinks

Damn! I already bought some.

[LivesNearCostco]

I forgot to add if you have coilovers that lower the strut end-link bracket, that would make your swaybar ends tilt downward. Using shorter end links would return your swaybar to horizontal. Most coilovers let you adjust spring perch and right height without moving the swaybar bracket, but some have the bracket on a threaded collar that can be lowered. Or the entire strut body can be shortened. Or the swaybar bracket is placed lower than normal to make room for the spring perch threads. Anyhooo... lower the brackets enough and you might need shortened end links.

Also heard somewhere that if you put an E46 M front swaybar on an E46 non-M, adjustable end links work better because the M3 swaybar ends are at a different angle than the non-M swaybar ends. Not sure if true.

[Imola.ZHP]

Ok, so as for tie rod ends; I just need the "end" with he balljoint right? Not the entire tie rod assembly...

Is here a decent aftermarket brand? Or stick with OEM?

[danewilson77]

Naa...you need the tie rod. PC 4 and 5. They do not have replaceable ball joints there.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...40&hg=32&fg=25

[danewilson77]

Ahhh....I suppose you could get away with getting just PC 6 and 7 though.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/32106774220/

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/32106774221/

[echo46]

Again, my vote on the popping is the end links.

[Imola.ZHP]

Ahhh....I suppose you could get away with getting just PC 6 and 7 though.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/32106774220/

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/32106774221/

Thats where I was confused, I don't see why I can't save some cash and just get the "ends."

Again, my vote on the popping is the end links.

I think your right, I'm going to go ahead and refresh the tie-rod ends, FCAB's and possibly the CA's. I still need to get her in the air and check the CA ball joints. I'll probably have time next week...

[echo46]

Can't hurt replacing the CAs and FCABS. I think you will see marked improvement.