Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Ocean County, NJ
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    Quote Originally Posted by M0nk3y View Post
    Porter Cable and Griots and Meguiars Random Orbitals are really all the same. I'm going on around 5 years since my PC purchase and it is in tip top shape.

    For the backing plate, I use a Meguiars Backing Plate that has a foam medium. I can't remember the name but I know it is on detailedimage and other sites. That is a good backing plate because it applies even pressure to the pad, which helps eliminate marring and other defects caused by uneven pressure. These problems are more often seen in rotarys, not orbitals, but regardless, I like them.

    As for pads, the general consensus is that for a Random Orbital a smaller pad is better. It is kind of toss up between a 5" and 4" pad. Personally I would go 4" if possible. It is limited returns if you go any smaller, as you'll have to spend alot more time on each panel. Anyways since the PC is not forced rotation, a smaller pad will thus spin faster, and yield better correction.

    This is flip flopped on a rotary, as the larger pad you go, the more correction you'll achieve.

    As for type of pads, it really all depends on the compounds. There is never one set formula I can tell you (but generally it works for most BMWs). Different cars in different climates with different conditions will vary on polish/pad combo.

    As I don't know what polishes you are using, it'll be tough to recommend something. I have not done much research on microfiber pads, but I've heard they are starting to become more popular, especially with the packages Meguiars is throwing together.

    Typically, for standard polishes it will be LCC Orange and White, or Hydro Cyan and Tangerine. This would be for a 2 step polish, obviously.

    Hopefully this helps, I'll only be available until tomorrow, after that I'll be unavailable for 2 weeks, as I'm currently in Barcelona and going to be sailing the Mediterranean coast.

    Adios¡


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  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    VA/DC
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    I'm really confused as to what I need to do--polish, seal, wax... How often do any of you do any of these?

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Ocean County, NJ
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    I clay, polish, and seal twice a year.

    I wax every 4-8 weeks.

    Sent from the Last Next Best Thing.
    -Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.
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    Shadowline Grills, CF Splitters, Fog Light Inserts, Euro-mirrors, CDV Delete, Beisan vanos, GAS DISA, BP Coded

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Jupiter, FL
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    Quote Originally Posted by kayger12 View Post
    I clay, polish, and seal twice a year.

    I wax every 4-8 weeks.

    Sent from the Last Next Best Thing.
    Clay I understand...

    But regarding polish... Is it really necessary if the top layer (wax or sealant) is kept up really nicely? I thought polish was only for swirl marks and haze? If you keep the car in good shape and do a finish coat of wax every 4-8 weeks, continual polish really isn't needed is it? I always thought polish was more in the "correction" side of things...?

    Sealant is just as it sounds correct? It has to be cured for 12-24 hours afterward, correct for the polymers to bond and truly seal right?

    And then wax is essentially just glossifier if I recall... I have to go look at my products again. Ugh...
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  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Ocean County, NJ
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    No matter how much I keep up with the wax, I always seem to get a little scratch here or mark there.

    I only use a very light finishing polish as my car has never had more than light surface scratches.

    Overdoing the polish is a valid concern, though. Every time you polish you're removing a bit of the clear coat. I skipped the spring polish this year and will probably just wait for the late fall this time.

    Ultimately, I think you're right. I could probably get away with once every year or two with little difference.


    Sent from the Last Next Best Thing.
    -Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.
    ZHP Pre-Ride Briefing

    2005 ZHP, Alcantara, Silver Cube, Nav, Sharked, BMW Perf Intake, BMW Perf CF Strut Brace, CF Valve/Fuel Rail Covers,
    Shadowline Grills, CF Splitters, Fog Light Inserts, Euro-mirrors, CDV Delete, Beisan vanos, GAS DISA, BP Coded

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NJ
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    Quote Originally Posted by JupiterBMW View Post
    Clay I understand...

    But regarding polish... Is it really necessary if the top layer (wax or sealant) is kept up really nicely? I thought polish was only for swirl marks and haze? If you keep the car in good shape and do a finish coat of wax every 4-8 weeks, continual polish really isn't needed is it? I always thought polish was more in the "correction" side of things...?

    Sealant is just as it sounds correct? It has to be cured for 12-24 hours afterward, correct for the polymers to bond and truly seal right?

    And then wax is essentially just glossifier if I recall... I have to go look at my products again. Ugh...
    Depending on the color of your car, you will incur marring in everyday life/washing/driving/getting in and out, so a polish once or twice a year is usually needed if you're particularly anal about your car's finish. I have an AW car in my family -- it is damn difficult to see micro-marring or even light swirls. I have to get the car in the right sun and put my face at the just right angle to let the reflection blind me for a second, then as my eyesight comes back, I might be able to make out a swirl or three. If I had AW, I'd probably not polish as much as I did on my IR. Claying will cause the marring that then requires polishing. Even waxing every 4-8 weeks causes swirls since there will always be dust and other things in between the cloth and the paint. You're right that polish is the "correction" side of things. It's also to ensure a smooth, even surface to put on your wax/sealant to help it last as long as possible.
    - Marc

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Fayetteville, NC
    Posts
    1,783
    for my AW car the plan I have is wash, MILD polish, then sealant, and then an LSP/QD on top of sealant IF i need extra gloss (but it's AW, so idk how much of a difference that LSP would make).
    After that, between washes, I will just use the LSP/QD to keep the finish up, until it's time to polish and seal procedure again.
    (With the specific polish and sealant I have in mind, it should only be required every year or so but I might do it every 8 months or so).
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  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    NJ
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    534
    Quote Originally Posted by ELCID86 View Post
    Leaning towards a Porter Cable 7424XP Random Orbital Buffer. Any recommendations on size of backing plates (6" and 4" or 3" perhaps)? Pads: Lake Country Red, Orange Blue? Thanks.
    take a look at this kit, it's proven and we have been using this combo for quite sometime.

    the PC is a bit outdated if you want to pick up something current at a great price pick up the Griots machine.

    Griot's Swirl Remover Kit

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    VA/DC
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    ^ Can you explain why the PC is "outdated" and why the Griot's is worth that much more? Also interested on your thoughts on 6" backing plate Vs. 4". Thanks.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Kansas City
    Posts
    263
    I just ordered the Griot's "Plus Kit" from Phil. It's on sale for $199. Using their Memorial Day coupon code, and their Memorial Day $8.88 flat shipping offer, the Griot's machine with the 5" vented backing plate and 10 pads was $178 shipped. That's more than competitive with the prices I've been pulling on PCs.
    Last edited by jgt_zhp; 05-27-2013 at 03:20 PM. Reason: typo
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