Originally Posted by
Kimber
Thanks for checking that info, I don't know anything about spring rates and valving, so I really appreciate the input.
YCW did email me back and they said a couple things:
For the maxed out camber in the front, they said we should be able to get -4deg, and said the installer should have tried to swap the top plates from left/right. So what they put them on wrong before they shipped them and I am supposed to know that?? Frustrates me.
Were you trying to go max negative camber? I thought that you were trying to get as little as possible. Because that's what it looks like you guys were doing. Since in the pictures, the adjustments were going away from the engine. If you wanted more negative, you would go towards the engine.
They said shortening the rear damper (via the lower mount) more is not going to affect the stroke as that is independent of that adjustment. So I guess my thought of having reduced travel was wrong. (again I am no suspension expert)
As per them using Swift linear springs in the rear (compared to most companies using barrel/progressive springs) they said they are one of the few companies that do this and its because it offers far increased performance over regular springs. To quote "Also, as your setup is now fully linear springs, these will not be as comfy as a stock setup that uses barrel/progressive springs; that's impossible. A linear spring will produce it's rated load throughout 100% of the spring stroke, whereas a barrel/progressive spring is softer initially, then gets harder as the spring compresses. Either you want performance, or you want comfort"
Um no. Plenty of companies use linear springs for their coilovers. In fact, nearly all of them. If they kept their barrel/progressive springs, then they would have joined one of the few to do that. Not the other way around.
But yes, they would be a little bit harder than the setup before which is correct. However, if they were matched up correctly with dampers that were designed well, it would also be comfy. The biggest advantage of linear springs is that it's way more predictable when you're throwing it around the curves since it's the same rate all the time.
My main concerns are:
Front dampers need to be uninstalled (AGAIN) and the top plates need to be swapped right/left to allow for proper adjustability.
see above. What were you trying to do? more negative or less?
Since they are saying they can send me shorter Swift springs for the rear (I have to email them about the spring top piece), that will hopefully allow me to go lower without coil bind so I can level the car out to roughly stock height. But it seems they are saying that these are never going to ride as comfortably as stock. Quote "Our coilovers will perform better in a performance situation than both the oem and most coilovers on the market , and are basically tamed-down track coilovers for a street car. You would be paying $3k+ for a similar setup from Penske or Bilstein, not $1k. If you are wanting "stock" quality/comfort, then unfortunately, these coilovers are not for you". When I first ordered these I specifically asked that these would be comfortable, as I DO NOT track this car, nor will I ever. (spirited driving yes) I just wanted the best ride I could get along with as good or better performance/handling over stock setup.
I really want to make these work, as they do look to be really great quality, and YCW has been trying to make it right, but in the end am I going to end up with a harsh ride that I never wanted. It's not like I am lowering the car and should expect a harsher ride. I'm just looking to be around stock height levels. (I'm in PA and our roads SUCK LOL)
I really appreciate all the input, look forward to hearing back everyone's thoughts on the above. Thanks guys!
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