Originally Posted by
M0nk3y
Sorry, That's something I should of clarified.
I was thinking when the camber plates are at "0", I'd be at stock spec on camber. Then say I want to dial it out -2, just add -2 on the camber plates...
Maybe I'm thinking about it wrong, would you set the camber plate to (say stock spec is -1) to -1 and then dial it out accordingly?
This year I put 8,000 miles on the car. But probably next year it will be more.
The only problem I've been reading is that with camber plates, dialing the camber in and out won't always be accurate and it will never be the same. Alot of people were telling me to just get camber plates, and dial it in and leave it. Would adjusting the camber in and out back and forth to stock specs be always off and inconsistent?
I'd gotta look that info up for you. I don't know the numbers off the top of my head.
To eliminate all understeer from the front and give the car a full oversteer nature requires -3-> -3.5* of front camber. If I'm going to get camber plates I'm going to max them out, go big or go home. I'd hate to get camber plates and just "compromise" to -2 because understeer will still be present.
I was thinking of getting unlimited tire alignment somewhere and just adjusting the specs prior and afterwards. I'll be mounting my RS3s day before the event and driving there...so at that point I can afford to drive on that camber.
I'm really afraid driving on -3-3.5 camber will chew the living crap out of my tires