Looking at your sig and OP post, it doesn't appear you have suspension modifications, correct me if I am wrong.
The only point with adjustable endlinks is to avoid pre-load from the sway bar. When you lower a car, the endlinks can only rotate with the car so much before it cannot physically avoid pre-load on a bar. When you add pre-load to a sway bar, you defeat the whole purpose...so that is when you need to add adjustable endlinks. If you see yourself getting suspension, get adjustable endlinks. However, my friend and a very knowledgeable guy who works at TCK Racing has his car lowered (E36 M) on TCK DA Coilovers and runs OEM endlinks and does not have any pre-load.
A front sway bar will help level out the front end, but will increase understeer. Tires corner best when they are loaded equally. There is more cornering force the more you load it, but it suffers from diminishing returns. For example tires with 40%/60% load on left/right will generate more overall cornering force than 20%/80%, even though the overall downward force on both tires is the same.
What an anti-roll bar does is resist body roll by increasing the downward load on the outside tire. Generally it corners flatter but with less grip. The only way to combat this and regain that grip is camber, usually.
Lastly, if you really want the rear end to rotate just remove the rear swaybar.
Before (OEM 27mm Swaybar, Toyo T1R Tires)
After: (H&R 30mm E46M Swaybar, Hankook RS3s)