Current Garage... '00 R11S, '09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT (wife's), '02 Alpine 325iT (Eileen, Track Wagon), '02 Japan Rot 325iT
Instagram @ HillPerformanceBimmers
Email to George@HillPerformance.com
Help needed!
What an eventful weekend. Started out my Friday and a few hours on Saturday to change out the lines that are attached to the PS reservoir and the one that attaches to the rack. Started the bleeding procedure and then about halfway in, one of the hoses that I apparently didn’t crimp well enough popped off. I had covered the alternator with a garbage bag but fluid still soaked it. No problems starting and hope the residual fluid runs out. So one maintenance item done.
Now onto the cooling system: against my better judgement and probably conventional wisdom, im l only replacing the expansion tank and all but one line leading from it. I’m not replacing that long one that goes to the firewall. All others are being replaced. I managed to get that engine block coolant drain plug using a combo of extensions and swiveling head ratchet wrench. Got soaked as I’m sure everyone has. Since I put that leak detection dye in, I plan to flush with distilled water. All drains were opened and pretty confident the bulk of the coolant has been drained.
But I’m stuck! Now I probably spent a few hours between the keyboard and my ET trying to get that bastard in. The bracket is original BMW. So was the ET. I bought a genuine BMW ET like you guys advised. It was not difficult to get it out from underneath: I took a piece of pine (5” long) and gave it a good smack. It came undone pretty easily. However I can’t get the new one in! First I tried muscle-ing it in. Then a little Vaseline. Then I put that same piece of pine on top of the top of the ET and gave it a firm but not barbarian smack. All it did was sliglhty deform the inner lip, which now I’m worried will cause a leak I’ll post a pic later.
I plan on removing the long vert local bracket and seeing if I can get the ET back on without busting the flimsy bottom mount. I tell you, what a poor design. Gripes aside, do y'all have any advice o. How to get this on wi th out breaking it? Also could it be that the design changed?
Other questions:
- does anyone know the part number of the drain plug crush washer?
- if I remove and reuse hoses, do yall recommend to replace the o-rings?
- so what I understand is that when you snap in hose fittings, the metal clip must be in the locked position. Is the same true for the expansion tank?
Last edited by TXRedDevil; 12-17-2023 at 11:26 AM.
Hey all, it’s been a long time since I’ve posted anything on this forum. It’s good to be back!
Here’s my two cents worth on cooling system parts. Go OEM and nothing else. The first time I did the water pump, expansion tank, hoses etc. I went aftermarket with the cheapest parts I could find at the time. I had heckuva time trying to get parts to fit . The next time, I went all OEM from ECS Tuning and got a full cooling system refresh including radiator. Everything fit together perfectly. Also, the aftermarket water pump failed on me when I thought the “upgraded“ metal impeller design would be superior. Somehow the metal repeller came apart and got ingested into the cooling system. I got some parts of it out, but some are never to be seen again.
To summarize, go OEM, especially for critical parts whenever you possibly can. It will be worth it in the long run.
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2004 Imola Red over Black Leather. 6-MT, Navigation, Cold Weather Pkg (the wife loves them seat warmers!), 3.46 Diff, UUC Short-Shift Kit, Tranny Mounts, CDV Delete and iPod mount.
Johnny,
Used to be your neighbor (Concord) for 5 years before moving out to TX! Hope all is well in CA for you..
Thanks for chiming in. I got the oem expansion tank; i was worried about fitment and unfortunately it's not working for me. Hence the follow up post. This thing don't wanna cooperate and seat.
Sometimes they can be tough if you are not experienced installing them and sometimes they just fall together. You are not alone in that I've two times recently had DIY'ers struggle for hours with multiple sets of hands and they can't get it, then I walk over and it pops together.
I use silicone spray on the bottom and then line everything up and wiggle as I push down, never had an issue.
I would be worried about what lip you deformed as well, post a pic?
Current Garage... '00 R11S, '09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT (wife's), '02 Alpine 325iT (Eileen, Track Wagon), '02 Japan Rot 325iT
Instagram @ HillPerformanceBimmers
Email to George@HillPerformance.com
George,
Appreciate the reply. I'll give silicone spray a go, but i'm going to remove the bracket tonight and try the silicone spray. Thanks for the suggestion. Here's a pic of the deformation. It's minor, but I'm concerned that it's minor enough to cause a leakage. I may take some 1200 grit sandpaper to.
Once I get it on, I'm going to pour distilled water into the system and pressure test it (pressure testing kit arriving latest Wednesday) to flush out the old coolant w/ dye and of course, pressure test the system:
Hey there!!! Yeah, things in California suck. But I’m stuck here for a while due to family. TX is on my short list to escape to. TN and AZ are up there too. If you don’t mind me asking, where in Tx?
As for the expansion tank, did you get the hook shaped tab seated into the slot correctly? Also, from the picture of the damage to the inside of the ET, you may have already gotten it seated? I can’t quite tell though. If that metal clip clips into place and the ET won’t come back up, you should be good to go.
When I did my cooling system the 2nd time, I was shocked at how easily everything came together. There was a snug little soft click into place. But it’s been a while since I did it. Hopefully others with more experience can chime in.
Hope you can get things sorted out quickly with no leaks. These things can be a royal headache.
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2004 Imola Red over Black Leather. 6-MT, Navigation, Cold Weather Pkg (the wife loves them seat warmers!), 3.46 Diff, UUC Short-Shift Kit, Tranny Mounts, CDV Delete and iPod mount.