Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Asheville, NC
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    2,591

    Clunk when braking

    So my car has this "clunk" sound when i brake. thought it was a lot of things, but i have figured out that it is the inside brake pad. I have akebono euroceramic pads. Here is a pic of the problem.



    If you look at the pad on the left, (inner) you can see that it does not appear to fit correctly. Have any of you seen this before? Did i get a bad batch of pads, or the wrong pads? Did i forget to do something? Did I do something wrong? Pls Advise!
    Edit: after staring at this all night, could I have somehow reversed the inner and outer pads?
    Thanks
    "No, Donny, these men are nihilists, there's nothing to be afraid of"

    09 135i Msport 6mt
    04 330i ZHP (sold)
    David

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Liberty Township, OH
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    37,935
    You could have reversed...maybe. Just do a quick disasseble, clean and inspect. That def is not proper though.
    Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs l Maple Interior Trim

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Ocean County, NJ
    Posts
    7,273
    Inner pad should have the metal clips that push into the caliper piston, correct?

    If they are seated, there should be no lateral movement of the pad.
    -Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.
    ZHP Pre-Ride Briefing

    2005 ZHP, Alcantara, Silver Cube, Nav, Sharked, BMW Perf Intake, BMW Perf CF Strut Brace, CF Valve/Fuel Rail Covers,
    Shadowline Grills, CF Splitters, Fog Light Inserts, Euro-mirrors, CDV Delete, Beisan vanos, GAS DISA, BP Coded

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Tampa, FL
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    You couldn't have reversed them because the inside one has clips to hold it into the piston where the outer is held on by a spring. That gap doesn't look right, though. I've never seen that much play in any of the brake jobs that I've done. It may not be the right pad. I'd go with what Dane said. Take it apart and inspect.
    19" VMR VB3 CSL reps w/ General G-Max 3 A/S, BMW Performance short throw shifter, CDV delete, M54B30 swap, and a redneck CAI.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Ocean County, NJ
    Posts
    7,273
    Quote Originally Posted by static667 View Post
    You couldn't have reversed them because the inside one has clips to hold it into the piston where the outer is held on by a spring.
    That's what I was trying to say-- thanks, Kyle.
    -Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.
    ZHP Pre-Ride Briefing

    2005 ZHP, Alcantara, Silver Cube, Nav, Sharked, BMW Perf Intake, BMW Perf CF Strut Brace, CF Valve/Fuel Rail Covers,
    Shadowline Grills, CF Splitters, Fog Light Inserts, Euro-mirrors, CDV Delete, Beisan vanos, GAS DISA, BP Coded

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Liberty Township, OH
    Posts
    37,935
    Yeah...static is right.....totally forgot about the construction of a caliper...hehe.

    There is a round hole (the piston) that the inner brake snaps into with three metal prongs. Did you at any time loosen the guide pin bushings?
    Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs l Maple Interior Trim

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Branford, CT
    Posts
    16,055
    It looks to me like the right-side pad in that pic is crooked. It should be 100% straight and matching the rotor, pretty much sitting on top of it. The problems I see here are the shape of the pad and the fact that there's a distance of a good 5mm between the pad and the rotor. That might be the cause...
    Compare that side to the other side and see if they look the same. If not, there's the source of your problem.
    BP
    2005 330i ZHP / 6MT
    Imolarot / Naturbraun
    2003 330iT / 6MT
    Orientblau / Naturbraun




    It's not the car you drive, it's how you drive it.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Hanover, PA
    Posts
    2,024
    Also suggest checking caliper pistons for proper movement... compress with c-clamp when you reinstall the pads. Check for smooth compression. Could have a stuck or sticking piston?

    Not too terribly difficult to rebuilt if you have some time and tools. Did it on the e30. May need to find a local metal shop with a parts cleaner/media blasting cabinet you can use to clean up the caliper.

    Hankook Ventus V4's 205/55/16 | 16" BMW OE Style 45's | ECSTuning 15mm Spacers | Thule 45050 Crossroad Rack | Thule 870XT Fairing | LLumar 35%/20% Tint
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Western WI
    Posts
    3,059
    If you didn't use anti-seize on the caliper pins, one of them is likely catching and not returning to the proper position so when you touch the brakes the next time, the pads contact the rotor unevenly and you get the noise.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Sandy Eggo
    Posts
    628
    Whens the last time you changed your CAB's?

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