no... well, yes and no.
i think my catch can, with the heating system, is the best solution for any climate where it gets below freezing temperatures.
for warmer-climate folks - this mod (with a fresh CCV i might add - an old clogged one won't help much), seems like a solid choice - the vacuum results are the same as my catch can, which is important for good ring seal. also important is the 1-way check valve for the oil drain line - that is crucial. i'm recommending this simply for OEM-ness and ease of install. if you want a catch can setup, you need to be willing to check the can contents every so often, and you need the right can - 95% of the designs i've seen out there aren't very good.
peter
2004 330i ZHP
2005 330iT ZHP
2010 328iT M Sport
Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
H&R sport springs, UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers
Yeah I pretty much replaced it for the same reason. I couldn't feel the difference since I did a flush as well so all the pedals feel firm already without the air/water in the system. But the CDV doesn't affect the feel of the clutch at all. All it did for me was get rid of the slight delay when you let the clutch out fast. With the CDV, it just slows it so that it always goes the same rate no matter how fast you let the clutch go.
I went with the Rogue Engineering SS Clutch line. It looked to be better quality than the UUC SS. Also, I had a discount on RE since Tom@EAS gives me a discount on most things he sells.
Man I hated the clutch in the BRZ lol It was way too light. When I first stepped on it, it was like wham to the ground lol To me, it had less feel than any other car. However the pedal didn't have any play. What I like more about the BRZ was the shifter. Feels more precise than the E46, even mines with the RE SSK. But I have a custom Autosolutions SSK sitting here waiting to be installed. I'd recommend getting the AS SSK personally. It feels great in my buddies M3 that I tried. Definitely don't go with RE SSK. For the clutch pedal, I want the Mason Engineering one. It's more solid, changes the engagement point as well. But I doubt you would like it, since it would be an even heavier feel than stock.
Well you'll be replacing the brake fluid after every track session anyways. I don't think it's that much. I swear motul was like $40 for 2 bottles or something.
No warning light or beep to appear which is slightly scary. I am going to double check the connection but I am pretty sure the connector was in good condition. I did not replace that sensor but I havent heard anyone mention it failing. The sensor that attaches to the passenger lower control arm was in rough shape (headlight angle sensor? or is a pitch or yaw type sensor?)
Added a quart and then cracked a second bottle and poured in half to get it back to a more normal level. I drove 130 miles on Friday and will be doing 130 miles tmrw morning at 4 or 5 am. I really like driving Rt 1 hard in the morning but may have to coast (no pun intended ) it this time. I will hit 500 miles by end of the week and will check it before driving from Irvine to Santa Barbara. This will be ~130 miles of mostly traffic with a few stretches of highway moving at 85mph or so.
The car does need some tie rods, but at speeds around 80 on the highway, the ZHP glides. This car is so much more comfortable at speed than the BRZ and the ride is not as fatiguing (or deafening #3"Non-ResonatedStraightPipeExhaust)
So, you have to do a few things to the clutch first, to get the right feel. First, acquired a custom weighted shift knob for better shift feel. Then I adjusted the pedal to sit a little lower than the break pedal so it was a very short motion. Also removed the clutch pedal return spring and swap out the clutch master slave cylinder to a slightly larger bore ( a Forester Part I think?). Then you are good to row through the gears like a mad man. The gears would go by really fast when running on Ethanol and having a catless header.
And I do like the way the ZHP shifts for the most part, although shorter is always nicer. A new alcantara shift knob would be nice too.
I had the oil level sensor fail earlier this year. Didnt get any yellow light warning either and when I checked the oil level, it was barely at the 'minimum' mark. Its a cheap part and an easy DIY during an oil change.
That's the headlight level sensor for NA cars equipped with the HID lights.The sensor that attaches to the passenger lower control arm was in rough shape (headlight angle sensor? or is a pitch or yaw type sensor?)
anandoc
2004 330i auto | ZPP, ZCW | Schwarz 2 (668) | schwarz (N6SW)
aFe Stage-1 Pro DRY S intake | Morimoto FX-R 3.0 retrofit | ///M3 Seats (power, heat, bolster adj.) | ///M3 Strut Brace | ///M3 SMG Steering Wheel retrofit | OEM Alarm retrofit | GROM USB | Khoalty angel eyes
It doesn't really beep unless it's extremely low. The warning light does go on though if you're pretty low.
The sensor on the control arm is the auto-leveling sensor.
Well I mean stock vs. stock. If you're doing all those mods to get it to feel right, you could mod the E46 as well and they would both feel great lol Other than that, the BRZ is a nice little car to play around with. I had this customer that came to me to do some lighting stuff. The car was modded ugly as hell lol But I did a few things that I guess hasn't been done on the forums yet which sucked cause I had to think lol Like making the DRL fog things stay on all the time (now I see that there is an easy way to do that). Then did those Diode Dynamics turn signal boomerang things (which I ended taking back off, long story). I think I installed like a Greddy ti-c exhaust and stuff. That car has so much space to work on things. Just hated taking off the bumper to do lighting stuff.