Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #831
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,252
    1. That looks straight up fun to work on the engine on an engine stand. It takes out almost all of the annoying bits of working on the engine (weird angles, knocking your knuckles due to weird angles, fear of dropping screws/nuts/tools/etc into some weird nook or cranny (THE ALCOVES) of the engine bay)
    2. YES, that is what my oil pickup tube screen if I didn't do a thorough job last weekend. No joke.
    3. Did you tighten/fix/do whatever to the oil pump nut, or have you already done that?
    4. Excellent progress. LOVE THE PICTURES.

  2. #832
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Kitchener, ON
    Posts
    6,048
    Quote Originally Posted by Vas View Post
    Good job man.
    thanks vas!


    Quote Originally Posted by Sockethead View Post
    Nice progress! Sweet having that engine stand to do the pan and rear main seal.
    Nothing like a clean organized garage.... one of the reasons I still haven't made any progress with my car.... I need organization!
    ha... it has help me up many times before! and it's amazing how much better you feel in an organized space.


    Quote Originally Posted by BMWCurves View Post
    1. That looks straight up fun to work on the engine on an engine stand. It takes out almost all of the annoying bits of working on the engine (weird angles, knocking your knuckles due to weird angles, fear of dropping screws/nuts/tools/etc into some weird nook or cranny (THE ALCOVES) of the engine bay)
    2. YES, that is what my oil pickup tube screen if I didn't do a thorough job last weekend. No joke.
    3. Did you tighten/fix/do whatever to the oil pump nut, or have you already done that?
    4. Excellent progress. LOVE THE PICTURES.
    1. yeah - that's why i'm trying to tackle as much stuff as i can now.
    2. sorry man.
    3. no, i figured since it was threadlocker'd at the factory, it's probably fine. but now that you mention it, i'm becoming paranoid. thanks.
    4. ha. knew you would.
    peter

    2004 330i ZHP
    2005 330iT ZHP
    2010 328iT M Sport

  3. #833
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    6,149
    If if that oil pump nut is loose, you'll know it with just mild pressure on a wrench... mine was tight as hell
    Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
    M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
    H&R sport springs,
    UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
    Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers

  4. #834
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,252
    Quote Originally Posted by slater View Post
    3. no, i figured since it was threadlocker'd at the factory, it's probably fine. but now that you mention it, i'm becoming paranoid. thanks.

  5. #835
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Kitchener, ON
    Posts
    6,048
    william, dude... jack is creepy. don't bring that into my thread.


    anyway. back to business!

    UPDATE -

    got the motor buttoned up last night, and the trans tidied up and ready for install:

    - G.A.S. CCV kit installed
    - replaced A/C belt tensioner and pulley
    - tested (and reinstalled) DISA - still, somehow, it's 100% functional with zero flapper play... decided to not bother with the G.A.S DISA kit, again... no need to make more work
    - reattached intake boots, clips, connectors, etc for engine so it's ready to be installed
    - de-scaled the brake rotors
    - cleaned grime from trans and engine-to-trans plate
    - replaced old plastic clutch fork pivot pin with aluminum one


    PICS


    the ZHP hadn't been driven much other than up/down the driveway once a week (or two) to keep stuff moving... but the rotors were rusty. i didn't want to wire wheel them, so i did some research... turns out, a full 24h bath in white vinegar will totally descale the rust from the rotors! you just wipe them clean after 24h of immersion. i did the fronts first - dumped them in a bucket with white vinegar on tuesday night, and pulled them out last night. rotor on top is just out the tank - still wet - the bottom one is out of the tank, and simply wiped clean with a rag (or 2). amazing. rears went into the bucket last night.




    ready to go. i wish the rest of the engine looked as good as the G.A.S. CCV. wowzers... shiny. note the garbage bag to the right... about half of that is torn latex gloves and probably 2 entire rolls of used shop towels. nuts...




    i hadn't replaced the pulley on the A/C belt tensioner before because it does not appear to be available separately... so i picked up a new tensioner + pulley assembly along the way. here it is.




    The CCV. dang. a work of art. the tolerances! wowzers. gary @ G.A.S. deserves a medal for the execution of this thing. i took my time with the install, but it was quite easy.




    the details. gary does this differently now for the newer kits (i got one of the first 10), but this is an OE-style squeeze-to-release fitting with a silicone hose and aluminum plug for the secondary port on the distribution block.





    the tolerances for this thing are ridiculous. gary even supplied an adhesive-backed piece of felt for the backside of this piece, where it lays against the fuel rail. i would imagine some misalignment between cars is expected here - the port in the distribution block (top left of pic) doesn't fit in 100%, maybe 1-1.5mm of gap there - but the o-ring is fully seated. this was the only part of the kit that didn't fit exactly 100% - but i am splitting hairs here, because it does totally fit. i love the piece that fits into the port in the valve cover. so well thought out.




    the drain back to the oil pan. gary supplies an excellent quality hose and clamps, and it's exactly the right length. i replaced the dipstick tube o-ring also, which is advised, but not included in the kit. gary does include new o-rings for the distribution block on the intake manifold, though - very nice.




    here's the hose connecting to the drain port on the CCV. it's tight, but it fits very well. connecting this hose was actually missing from his instructions, so i will be emailing him about that - anyone installing it shouldn't miss this step anyway because, well, duh, but his instructions are so detailed anyway, it should be in there.




    seriously. way too shiny for my engine bay, but beautiful nonetheless.




    this is in the instructions - you have to file away part of the seam on the intake manifold in order for the CCV to fit - this was a little tedious, but not difficult.





    tonight... the Touring goes under the knife! should be down for 2 weeks, i imagine.
    Last edited by slater; 11-09-2017 at 06:09 AM.
    peter

    2004 330i ZHP
    2005 330iT ZHP
    2010 328iT M Sport

  6. #836

  7. #837
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Chicago area
    Posts
    1,920
    What can be used to file away the side of the intake manifold?

  8. #838
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Kitchener, ON
    Posts
    6,048
    Quote Originally Posted by cakM3 View Post
    Peter, that G.A.S. CCV!!!
    hahaha... it is definitely admirable!


    Quote Originally Posted by holyc0w View Post
    What can be used to file away the side of the intake manifold?
    a file.


    or, a dremel with a grinding bit. i used a medium-grit file with a rounded profile.
    peter

    2004 330i ZHP
    2005 330iT ZHP
    2010 328iT M Sport

  9. #839
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    6,149
    Peter, just throwing this out there since you already have the parts.... I was chasing down a mid powerband stumble which I thought was the DISA. I checked multiple times over the years and it seemed to be working perfectly on the bench. However, when I rebuilt it with the GAS kit, the stumble was virtually gone...

    Everything looks great as far as your engine goes... It must be a great feeling to have all that stuff done before you put it in the car
    Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
    M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
    H&R sport springs,
    UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
    Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers

  10. #840
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,252
    How difficult do you think it would be to install the CCV with the engine still in the car?

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