Window regulator finally went out..

[BimmerWill]

I've been waiting for it over the years and this morning on my way to work the drivers side window made a very loud cracking and popping noise going both up and down.

Its given me trouble about being slow over the years when rolling back up but it still worked so I left it be until it did finally decide to go completely out.

It seems like now I'm going to have to take the door panel off and see whats going on in there. One reason ive been hesitant to take the panel off is according to some of the DIY's ive read in passing stating that I have to cut the moisture barrier free in order to access the interior of the window mechanism which has made me a little nervous about doing it but at this point its got to happen.

Can anyone give any tips in regards to replacing and or simply doing the zip tie mod? From what I've heard the zip tie is a quick fix but isn't long term so I was thinking about rigging up something more permanent. Prices on these new regulators are a little more than I was wanting to spend so I'd hoped on just fixing the one I have somehow.

The sound it is making now almost sounds like something is grinding against the window itself, its difficult to describe but is definitely not making the same noise it was before. Hope to tackle this within the next day or so.

Thanks guys!

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[danewilson77]

You don't need to remove the panel to know what's going one.

99% sure the cable jumped the track and got wedge and ruined in the pulley's (hence the crunching sound).

I believe you're beyond the zip tie fix. I've never been able to fix one that's all together failed.

IMO, zip tie fix is a preventative measure when window first shows symptoms.

[BimmerWill]

You don't need to remove the panel to know what's going one.

99% sure the cable jumped the track and got wedge and ruined in the pulley's (hence the crunching sound).

I believe you're beyond the zip tie fix. I've never been able to fix one that's all together failed.

IMO, zip tie fix is a preventative measure when window first shows symptoms.

So definite gonna need a new regulator then I'm assuming?

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[danewilson77]

I wouldn't want you to buy the part then not need it. I also wouldn't want you to get into the job without parts and then need the regulator.

In my opinion once that cable comes off the track, the cabled gets kinked/pinched (will never straighten again), and becomes wedged.

In my experience it is impossible to re-route to affect the zie tie fix and have the window work once this happens.

Wait for others to chime in if you want.

[BimmerWill]

I've heard you'd advice enough to know to take it with more than just a grain of salt so I'm leaning towards ordering the past before I tackle it. I'll try to upload a video sometime today or tonight and see if you all can confirm that's what it is.

I'm just hoping that the gears aren't sheared off the motor :/

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[danewilson77]

I've heard you'd advice enough to know to take it with more than just a grain of salt so I'm leaning towards ordering the past before I tackle it. I'll try to upload a video sometime today or tonight and see if you all can confirm that's what it is.

I'm just hoping that the gears aren't sheared off the motor :/

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Never seen the motor issue you describe.

HTC DNA ON TT4 BETA, WILLIAMSBURG, VA

[BimmerWill]

I saw a video this morning where regulator went out and when the cable got unwound around the pulley became bound up into the gears of the motor and chewed the teeth up.

I'm thinking I won't have the same problem as the window still goes up and down just is not liking it at all. Seems like the cable has come off track and wreaking havoc inside.

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[328ioc]

I have done 4 window regs now and my suggestion is based on the sounds you describe, stop using your window immediately and order a new regulator.

Your motor will be fine and the reg is about 160 to 180 at the dealer.

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[Crickett]

My $0.02 (after sifting through many posts on E46F on the subject):

Order a $30 regulator off eBay (like this one here (http://www.ebay.com/itm/380577989589?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)): these parts, even the $$$ Genuine BMW ones, will fail – the bracket design just isn't up to normal, long-term usage – so you might as well go with the cheapest option. Even if the eBay ones only last a year (guys on E46F using them have reported multiple years of good operation, though), you can replace it around four times before you've spent the amount of the Genuine BMW part.

That's my plan for my failed & failing regulators. YMMV.

(Disclaimer: I know the attitude of "so you might as well go with the cheapest option" isn't common among us enthusiasts, & I generally 100% agree that it's a BS attitude, but in this instance, I have no problem going the cheapest route. It's a very simple DIY &, assuming the eBay part will work at least as good & anywhere close to as long as the OE part (& isn't made of tin foil), it should be economical in the long-run.)

[BimmerWill]

I'm debating on getting one from oembimmerparts or another site. Prices seem to be between 50-100 bucks for a new aftermarket one and will do the zip tie mod while I have the new assembly out just as further preventative maintenance.

Does anyone know if Uro is the original supplier for these or not?

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[Go Horns!]

You do not need to cut the vapor barrier. You will need to cut the glue/tar that connects the barrier to the door. When you are done the glue/tar will reattach to the door.

Buy a cheapo regulator. The things are going to keep failing, it is a design flaw, not a manufacturing flaw.

[Tnhl1989]

What really helps is heating up the goo and cutting it. That's what I did when I did mine and just heat up the goo and push it back into place afterwards.

[BimmerWill]

Thanks for the tips fellas...I'll get online tonight and see what I can find.

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[BavarianZHP]

As other's stated, no need to cut the vapor barrier, just peel back from the corners (start at the rear top or front top) of the barrier with your hands. Gently pry it off and set aside. Just make sure you try to keep the glue evenly distributed instead of bunching it up all in one place so on reapplication the glue can be reapplied evenly for a perfect seal.

Oh, make sure you purchase extra clips similar to these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-X-BMW-door-clips-51411973500-BMW-E34-E36-E39-E38-E46-X5-X3-and-Z8-/170967779790?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BUA%2 52BFICS%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D200913164303%26ps%3D54

You'll most likely break a couple and will need to replace them. It's also much faster with an extra pair of hands since they can hold things in place as you disconnect plugs and such....

[BimmerWill]

Okay thanks. Any other likely candidates for a breakage?

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[BavarianZHP]

The window itself is the only other thing I can think of... But just be careful of what you unscrew... LOL.

[BimmerWill]

Haha thanks will do

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[Dave1027]

Buy a cheapo regulator. The things are going to keep failing, it is a design flaw, not a manufacturing flaw.

Not disagreeing on buying a cheapo but I do not believe BMW's iteration of the window regulator is a design flaw. I've done many of these on other vehicles and when the window no longer slides easily in the track then regulator failure is inevitable. Once the root cause is fixed then the regulator will last indefinitely.

[alexandre]

I got Dorman through Amazon for my driver's and rear passenger's. They're about $50. Just reinforce it with the zip tie and you'll be fine. It's got a lifetime warranty on it as well - Dorman's customer service is non-existent, but Amazon will take care of honoring the warranty. My driver's failed after 6 months, but I got a free replacement the next day (and reinforced it preventatively this time around)

Re: the weather shielding, just do it on a hot day and you shouldn't have too much trouble.

[BimmerWill]

I got Dorman through Amazon for my driver's and rear passenger's. They're about $50. Just reinforce it with the zip tie and you'll be fine. It's got a lifetime warranty on it as well - Dorman's customer service is non-existent, but Amazon will take care of honoring the warranty. My driver's failed after 6 months, but I got a free replacement the next day (and reinforced it preventatively this time around)

Re: the weather shielding, just do it on a hot day and you shouldn't have too much trouble.

Thanks for the tip!

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[BimmerWill]

Okay pulled everything out tonight. Turns out one of the pieces that holds the window was no longer holding onto the "bead" of the cable that actuates it up and down but that wasn't what was causing my problems. After we got it back together and tested it again the noise was still very loud and present. So we took it back off and tested it with it out of the door and the pulley where the motor goes into had the cables off track in it causing the noise. Unfortunately to discover this we had to tear it apart.

I'm ordering a new one tonight, had hoped to fix it but all is well I'll just drive the trusty jeep the next couple days til amazon comes through!

[alexandre]

My replacement Dorman driver regulator went out today. Window is stuck in door completely down and will only go out about 2in. before stopping. It's 30 degrees these days - what can I do while I'm waiting for the new part to come in ? I bought genuine BMW this time, too much trouble waiting for parts, etc.

[330blast]

Be careful when you manually move the windows during the regulator replacement. The screw that holds the window to the regulator could scratch the glass, and if you have tint on the window, be EXTREMELY gentle and slow. I learned it the hard way.

As for the barrier, I was lucky to replace mine during summer. But you should be able to soften the adhesive with a hair dryer, and when they are soft and sticky, reattching the barrier is easy. You can use a razor blade to slowly cut the adhesive when it's soft (just be careful not to cut anything else). You can actually buy the adhesive from Home Depot (it's called somewhat tape, sorry, can't remember the actual name).

Good luck.

[alexandre]

Be careful when you manually move the windows during the regulator replacement. The screw that holds the window to the regulator could scratch the glass, and if you have tint on the window, be EXTREMELY gentle and slow. I learned it the hard way.

As for the barrier, I was lucky to replace mine during summer. But you should be able to soften the adhesive with a hair dryer, and when they are soft and sticky, reattching the barrier is easy. You can use a razor blade to slowly cut the adhesive when it's soft (just be careful not to cut anything else). You can actually buy the adhesive from Home Depot (it's called somewhat tape, sorry, can't remember the actual name).

Good luck.

Oh I know all that... It's gonna be the 3rd time I tear apart that door in a year. Going OEM this time, even if they are notorious for failures the original one still lasted 6-7 years. The aftermarket garbage just fails too often.

[Dave1027]

One thing I learned long ago about window regulators is you must first repair the cause of the failure and that usually is too much drag in the window sliding rails. You can continue replacing regulators if you don't first fix the cause of failure. Sometimes all it takes is a good cleaning and lubrication.

[BimmerWill]

I've had my dorman in since early June and haven't had any issues out of it. Once or twice its made a creaking sound but thats gone away. My only regret while I was in there would have been to clean everything up and ensure enough grease was present, along with the zip-tie insurance lol.

Sent from S4

[kayger12]

One thing I learned long ago about window regulators is you must first repair the cause of the failure and that usually is too much drag in the window sliding rails. You can continue replacing regulators if you don't first fix the cause of failure. Sometimes all it takes is a good cleaning and lubrication.

Great observation. Never thought about this.

[BimmerWill]

It would appear that I spoke too soon and jinxed myself. The dorman replacement is now making the same noise my OEM regulator did. Is anyone familiar with how to go about getting a warranty replacement through amazon?

Sent from S4

[danewilson77]

http://www.amazon.com/gp/css/returns/homepage.html/ref=hy_f_4

[BimmerWill]

http://www.amazon.com/gp/css/returns/homepage.html/ref=hy_f_4

Thanks Dane... I guess I've got to remove it from the car and not drive it until it's settled. Was hoping I could get a replacement first.


Sent from S4

[alexandre]

Thanks Dane... I guess I've got to remove it from the car and not drive it until it's settled. Was hoping I could get a replacement first.


Sent from S4

They did an advance replacement for me. Call them and tell them to hold the funds on your card until they receive your defective one.

You're prolly gonna have to do this again in 6 months though. Make sure to do zip tie and grease profusely - i did the first but not the second and now i have to go through this again.

[BimmerWill]

They did an advance replacement for me. Call them and tell them to hold the funds on your card until they receive your defective one.

You're prolly gonna have to do this again in 6 months though. Make sure to do zip tie and grease profusely - i did the first but not the second and now i have to go through this again.

What happened with my replacement is the same thing that occurred with my stock unit. It wasn't the drivers but the pulley system that the motor rotates where the cables twist around the pulley. Mine got out of track within the unit resulting in this god awful noise. I kept the old unit and took it apart fixed it and regressed everything. I'm debating on putting it back together along with zip ties. Either way I would like a spare or my money back. Even the cruddy OEMs last longer than this one has. Granted I was well aware of the track record the majority of the aftermarket's seem to only last around 6 months. It wouldn't be such a big deal If it wasn't such a paint to take the door apart and finagle the thing in and out of there.

I could just go race car status and leave the card off lol :shifty

Sent from S4

[alexandre]

What happened with my replacement is the same thing that occurred with my stock unit. It wasn't the drivers but the pulley system that the motor rotates where the cables twist around the pulley. Mine got out of track within the unit resulting in this god awful noise. I kept the old unit and took it apart fixed it and regressed everything. I'm debating on putting it back together along with zip ties. Either way I would like a spare or my money back. Even the cruddy OEMs last longer than this one has. Granted I was well aware of the track record the majority of the aftermarket's seem to only last around 6 months. It wouldn't be such a big deal If it wasn't such a paint to take the door apart and finagle the thing in and out of there.

I could just go race car status and leave the card off lol :shifty

Sent from S4

Yup, sorry for recommending the thing... My metal cable got stuck in the pulley too, and now the window won't move. Probably the pulley material or something. I ordered a new OEM one from bmwpartssource.com for 103$, I should've done that right at the beginning.

[BimmerWill]

Yup, sorry for recommending the thing... My metal cable got stuck in the pulley too, and now the window won't move. Probably the pulley material or something. I ordered a new OEM one from bmwpartssource.com for 103$, I should've done that right at the beginning.

Nothing to apologize for in the slightest. I knew what I was getting into from the beginning lol. I should have bit the bullet myself and ordered oem. I just couldn't bring myself to pay over a hundred dollars for something seemingly fairly simple. There's so many improvements to that design overall that would benefit longevity but hey how would dealerships make money if parts lasted forever lol.

Sent from S4

[coby1]

when i was doing appraisals(i would have to open the windows 50 times a day to take pictures) i kept an oem regulator for the drivers and passenger side on the shelf at all times (so i would not need to walk into a dealer and over pay)i would buy from tisher etc. did the zip tie thing but they still crapped out on me (maybe lasted a little longer) but still had to replace them on a yearly basis.

[BimmerWill]

when i was doing appraisals(i would have to open the windows 50 times a day to take pictures) i kept an oem regulator for the drivers and passenger side on the shelf at all times (so i would not need to walk into a dealer and over pay)i would buy from tisher etc. did the zip tie thing but they still crapped out on me (maybe lasted a little longer) but still had to replace them on a yearly basis.

Even the oem regulators you had to replace on a yearly basis?

Sent from S4

[coby1]

oh yea, but it was probably due to the constant use each house appraised = opening the windows at least 8-12 times to take pictures of potential comps.(sometimes i would have 3-5 orders a day) back in the day when any warm body would qualify for a 300k loan

[BimmerWill]

oh yea, but it was probably due to the constant use each house appraised = opening the windows at least 8-12 times to take pictures of potential comps.(sometimes i would have 3-5 orders a day) back in the day when any warm body would qualify for a 300k loan

Okay that makes more sense thanks for the clarification I was confused when you said appraisals lol. That doesn't surprise me in the slightest then lol.

Sent from S4

[BimmerWill]

Okay contacted amazon they have sent me a new unit no questions asked with one day shipping so should be here tomorrow. I plan to pull the old-ish one out and put the new one in with the zip tie reinforcement and mail them the defective. If the next one does the same I will ask for a simple full refund and order an OEM replacement from one of our supporting sites. Hopefully this next unit will last longer than the first...

Sent from S4

[alexandre]

That's the + of dealing with Amazon. I'll try to get a refund for mine although it's been over a year now.

[BimmerWill]

That's the + of dealing with Amazon. I'll try to get a refund for mine although it's been over a year now.

My understanding is that it has a limited lifetime warranty but I could be wrong. Wouldn't hurt to give it a shot. The item description makes some pretty hefty claims as to the durability of the unit if they really want to give you the runaround about it bring up the fact that your oem unit lasted much longer than their replacement.

sent from S4

[WOLFN8TR]

How can you tell if it's the window regulator or the switch itself? My window has been working fine. I rolled it half way down this morning on the way to work then pulled up on the window switch to roll it up and the window goes all the down! I can hear a clicking noise when I try to roll it up coming from inside of the door. Also I noticed there seems to be a slight difference in the feel of the switches drivers vs passenger side. The passenger side has two points where you can feel it engage and the drivers switch only has one. Is this a bad regulator or switch? Any ideas?

[3ZHP]

If the regulator cable broke you can raise and lower the window by hand and it won't stay up without tape or something


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[BimmerWill]

Rear passenger window just failed completely halfway up. Had to tape it. Has anyone sourced a decently priced vendor online for the OEM replacements? I'm tired of fooling with the dorman's replacing them every 3 months.

sent from S4

[llll1l1ll]

I used the cheap-o one I found on ECS Tuning. I think it's by MTC. Has been working fine for almost six months.

[imola red zhp]

How can you tell if it's the window regulator or the switch itself? My window has been working fine. I rolled it half way down this morning on the way to work then pulled up on the window switch to roll it up and the window goes all the down! I can hear a clicking noise when I try to roll it up coming from inside of the door. Also I noticed there seems to be a slight difference in the feel of the switches drivers vs passenger side. The passenger side has two points where you can feel it engage and the drivers switch only has one. Is this a bad regulator or switch? Any ideas?

Gary just replaced regulator only 1 month ago. It was rolling up and slowly and mad a clicking noise about 3/4 of the down.
I found the plastic clips that attach the regulator to window were cracked causing window to be drawn with the one Remaining clip, all that pressure on that one clip can cause strain on the cables causing window to eventually drop.
That may have happened to yours.
Took about an hour and half to replace regulator. Had spare clips from my M5 window regs.

sent by new technology DA

[BimmerWill]

Well my drivers side regulator in the rear finally went out. Just replaced passenger rear about two months ago. I think I'm going to try and fix this one if it's not too bad. This one did the same thing the other rear did and broke on the way back up. Only a matter of time before my passenger side goes out as well I'm thinking.

[bshovers]

Well my drivers side regulator in the rear finally went out. Just replaced passenger rear about two months ago. I think I'm going to try and fix this one if it's not too bad. This one did the same thing the other rear did and broke on the way back up. Only a matter of time before my passenger side goes out as well I'm thinking.

Simple DIY project. Can get a regulator around 60$ just read the reviews on them first. I decided with OEM just because it was my drivers window and it gets the most use. For the rears I might just go off brand when the time comes.


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[ELCID86]

Simple DIY project. Can get a regulator around 60$ just read the reviews on them first. I decided with OEM just because it was my drivers window and it gets the most use. For the rears I might just go off brand when the time comes.


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Yeah from what I've read, all of them tend to fail eventually. Colin's right front is on the "watch list".


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[NoVAphotog]

Yeah from what I've read, all of them tend to fail eventually. Colin's right front is on the "watch list".


Mine's been on that same list since I got the car...

[BimmerWill]

Well got it out and there is no salvaging it... OEM on prefer from ecstuning. They have got to love me this summer.

[ELCID86]

Yeah from what I've read, all of them tend to fail eventually. Colin's right front is on the "watch list".


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Well it failed on Colin last night. He gat really mad at his 19yo little brother for breaking it...I think I have him calmed down now. (Grin)

Can someone post up the part number. Front right door on a sedan (if it makes a difference). I will try and grab one while I'm up in NOVA today.


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[fredo]

LOL ... when the regulator failed on my e90, it was my sister that pushed the button. She was very sorry for it, and offered to pay for the repair. I explained it was not her fault, but she insisted to pay.

[ELCID86]

Very nice of her :-)

Can someone help with p/n?


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[ELCID86]

Is this it?

ELECTR.WINDOW LIFTER FRONT L:513232 (51-33-7-020-659)



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[NoVAphotog]

Is this it?

ELECTR.WINDOW LIFTER FRONT L:513232 (51-33-7-020-659)


Shawn, looks like FRONT RIGHT ends with 660 and FRONT LEFT ends with 659.

Realoem.com:

ELECTR.WINDOW LIFTER FRONT RIGHT 51337020660 $127.55

BMW of Fairfax Parts:

Part Number 51337020660
Part Name WINDOW REG
MSRP $149.10
Core $0.00
Save $29.82
Online Price $119.28

[ELCID86]

Thanks Dan. BMW of Alex had it for $109. Fairfax said he can't match/beat that. I'll pick it up this afternoon.


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[NoVAphotog]

Thanks Dan. BMW of Alex had it for $109. Fairfax said he can't match/beat that. I'll pick it up this afternoon.


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

Sounds good.

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[ELCID86]

I ended up buying the driver's side too after the parts guy said "this is a 3-series, right?? You know the other side will be next,,," he was nice enough to match the $109 price.

[NoVAphotog]

I ended up buying the driver's side too after the parts guy said "this is a 3-series, right?? You know the other side will be next,,," he was nice enough to match the $109 price.

Nice. I'll definitely be contacting these guys soon enough...

[fredo]

Good call, Shawn, about buying both regulators. I had my 323i e46 for 5 years, and replaced these two: front passenger and rear driver. No clue what happened before my ownership.

[ELCID86]

Well. Now that I'm home and have talked to Colin I find out his brother was in the back seat...! Back to the dealer tomorrow.

[ELCID86]

ELECTR.WINDOW LIFTER REAR RI:513232 (51-35-8-212-100) is $88 at BMW of Alex (online) in case any wondered. :-)

[fredo]

Well. Now that I'm home and have talked to Colin I find out his brother was in the back seat...! Back to the dealer tomorrow.

LOL ... Sorry I missed your face at that moment. Are you returning the front ones ?

[ELCID86]

LOL ... Sorry I missed your face at that moment. Are you returning the front ones ?

:-/

I'll keep the right one as that window is worrying me. May replace it when I do the NB door cards. I need to see if the driver's side has already been done. For some reason I think the PO did it. Will check the paperwork.

[ELCID86]

So now that the rear is done. I'm thinking of doing the front one. The symptom is that it's sluggish/slow. Is that the regulator or perhaps the motor itself?

[NoVAphotog]

So now that the rear is done. I'm thinking of doing the front one. The symptom is that it's sluggish/slow. Is that the regulator or perhaps the motor itself?

Well, mine clicks/shifts a couple times a little bit past halfway down and then is slow to come up sometimes stopping about an inch from the top. I press up again and it goes up. It is off and on though, sometimes it makes it up all the way at a decent speed which based upon my initial post on the topic awhile ago led Dane to express it was the regulator without hesitation.

[alexandre]

Sluggish = regulator. I had that problem when I bought my car and a new regulator fixed it. I also replaced both front regulators on another E46 in my family for the same reason with the same outcome.

The motor is set so that it slows down or stops if it encounters any resistance... Motor failures are fairly rare.

[imola red zhp]

Sluggish = regulator. I had that problem when I bought my car and a new regulator fixed it. I also replaced both front regulators on another E46 in my family for the same reason with the same outcome.

The motor is set so that it slows down or stops if it encounters any resistance... Motor failures are fairly rare.

Yes maybe out 6 regulators I 've replaced on 4 different bimmers I have never changed a motor.....its almost always the cable

sent by new technology DA

[ELCID86]

Good to know. Thanks guys. I have the two fronts in hand and need to replace them. Daniel? :-)

[danewilson77]

Yes maybe out 6 regulators I 've replaced on 4 different bimmers I have never changed a motor.....its almost always the cable

sent by new technology DA
+1

The friendliest forum on the planet!

[RITmusic2k]

Cross-posted from the weekend thread -

I did my rear passenger regulator this past weekend, using this EXCELLENT set of instructions (http://www.bmwgm5.com/window_regulator.htm).

Pictures of the carnage:

http://i.imgur.com/jS8n2WC.png


http://i.imgur.com/uhVESis.png

I went the cheapest route possible for my replacement parts - off-brand regulator from ECS tuning (http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2091863/), to the tune of $36. I picked up some extra plastic pieces and such but ended up not needing any of them. For anyone else about to do this work, it's a pretty straightforward and simple process, just time-consuming (especially when peeling back the moisture barrier layer). Don't be surprised if the replacement regulator is very 'tight' and difficult to move. Even after lubing mine up with a spray silicone lubricant, it took substantial effort to move by hand. But the window motor is geared to the task and when everything is in place it'll be smooth and happy.