OEM BMW Double Vanos Unit M54

[jamezc88]

Up for grabs is a complete double vanos unit, from a 2004 530i M54B30 with 65k on the odometer. Customer INSISTED his rattle was from the vanos unit and wanted it replaced. Turns out, it was a combination of the belt tensioner and disa valve. a simple checkout could have saved this guy thousands of dollars, but hey what do bmw techs know.

It is in very good condition. No leaks or abnormal noises and could save u a couple thousand if youve been having vanos related issues. Includes the solenoids but no bolts (the old bolts can be reused from whichever car you decide to swap from)

If you decide to do the job yourself, cyl 1 should be top dead center and cams locked in place. REMEMBER the 2 bolts at the center of the vanos are reverse threaded and tighten all bolts torqued to spec. besides that, it is a very simple job to do.

LIST OF APPLICABLE CARS/ENGINES

5 Series E39
2001-2003 525i Touring (E39/M54)
2001-2003 525i Sedan (E39/M54)
From 1999 - 2000 528i Sedan (E39/M52)
From 1999 - 2000 528i Touring (E39/M52)
2001-2003 530i Sedan (E39/M54)

3 Series E46
2000-2006 320i Sedan (E46/M54)
2000-2000 323Ci Coupe (E46/M52)
2000-2000 323Ci Convertible (E46/M52)
1999-2000 323i Sedan (E46/M52)
2000-2000 323i Touring (E46/M52)
2001-2006 325Ci Coupe (E46/M54)
2000-2005 325Ci Convertible (E46/M54)
2001-2005 325i Sedan (E46/M54)
2001-2005 325i Touring (E46/M54)
2001-2005 325xi Touring (E46/M54)
2001-2005 325xi Sedan (E46/M54)
2000-2000 328Ci Coupe (E46/M52)
1999-2000 328i Sedan (E46/M52)
2001-2006 330Ci Coupe (E46/M54)
2001-2006 330Ci Convertible (E46/M54)
2001-2005 330i Sedan (E46/M54)
2001-2005 330xi Sedan (E46/M54)

E53
2001-2006 X5 3.0i SAV (E53/M54)

5 Series E60
2004-2005 525i Sedan (E60/M54)
2004-2005 530i Sedan (E60/M54)

E83
2004-2006 X3 2.5i SAV (E83/M54)
2004-2006 X3 3.0i SAV (E83/M54)

Z4 E85
2003-2005 Z4 2.5i Roadster (E85/M54)
2003-2005 Z4 3.0i Roadster (E85/M54)

Z3
1999-2000 Z3 2.5 Roadster (Z3/M52)
2001-2002 Z3 2.5i Roadster (Z3/M54)
From 1999 - 2000 Z3 2.8 Roadster (Z3/M52)
From 1999 - 2000 Z3 2.8 Coupe (Z3/M52)
2001-2002 Z3 3.0i Coupe (Z3/M54)
2001-2002 Z3 3.0i Roadster (Z3/M54)

http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/ee330/sewootgame/ccf35dd7-be6e-4afa-a087-f72a0ee532fe_zpsaeba3fc4.jpg (http://s532.photobucket.com/user/sewootgame/media/ccf35dd7-be6e-4afa-a087-f72a0ee532fe_zpsaeba3fc4.jpg.html)
http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/ee330/sewootgame/18069240-0f66-41ab-857f-9571765db7e1_zpsfd94c10d.jpg (http://s532.photobucket.com/user/sewootgame/media/18069240-0f66-41ab-857f-9571765db7e1_zpsfd94c10d.jpg.html)
http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/ee330/sewootgame/644ed057-eb46-4171-9b49-93af367d2d9e_zps0f840bb1.jpg (http://s532.photobucket.com/user/sewootgame/media/644ed057-eb46-4171-9b49-93af367d2d9e_zps0f840bb1.jpg.html)

Located in Columbia, MD. $250 shipped.

[Stewbie]

If you decide to do the job yourself, cyl 1 should be top dead center and cams locked in place. REMEMBER the 2 bolts at the center of the vanos are reverse threaded and tighten all bolts torqued to spec. besides that, it is a very simple job to do.


I've often wondered about this. The vanos can affect cam timing so it stands to reason that some caution is warranted. However Dr. Vanos's instructions (http://drvanos.com/docs/dual.pdf) just say "Ensure that engine is not moved from TDC." and nothing else. They don't even tell you to put any particular cylinder at TDC in the first place. Is there a better DIY that explains the proper way to do this job?

[danewilson77]

I've never done this. Probably performed 10 vanos rebuilds. I don't see how ensuring cylinder 1 is at tdc matters for vanos rebuild.

Bonus is a pretty simple design really. Exhaust and intake pistons, and camshaft position sensors. When you turn your car off to perform the rebuild, nothing moves (camshafts) and the position sensors and intake/exhaust pistons are variable and "self" adjusting.

Need more data on tdc requirement.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4

[jamezc88]

Yes it is related to timing so if the cams are not locked down it could be an issue once the work has begun, but the chain does not come off like the Nxx engines do so no worries about chain tension in relation to our vanos. At the dealer we have cam and crank lock tools to ensure they hold still at cyl 1 tdc. Really youve got to just make sure you dont spin the crank/cam. Cams on these engines have no timing marks in relation to each other and the crank pulley has no marks as well. The "marks" on the crank are for weight balancing. First time i did one of these i printed out the repair instructions and to my surprise, the official repair instr. says "if cyl 1 is at tdc, the first pair of cam lobes, exhaust and intake, should be pointed at each other at a 2 oclock and 10 oclock position respectively." Very...weird. I started at vw where doing timing belts all day gets u used to looking for marks to match up instead of the whole charade of how the first pair of cam lobes are pointed at each other.

If you guys would like, i can provide repair instructions for this particular job.

[wsmeyer]

I've never done this. Probably performed 10 vanos rebuilds. I don't see how ensuring cylinder 1 is at tdc matters for vanos rebuild.

Bonus is a pretty simple design really. Exhaust and intake pistons, and camshaft position sensors. When you turn your car off to perform the rebuild, nothing moves (camshafts) and the position sensors and intake/exhaust pistons are variable and "self" adjusting.

Need more data on tdc requirement.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4

IMO locking the cams falls under the "best practice" category.

In order for the cams to move in relation to the sprocket and mess up the timing you would have to pull the splined shaft out that joins the cam sprocket to the cam, part #11 here:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BW53&mospid=47707&btnr=11_2171&hg=11&fg=25

In order to pull this part out, one or both cams would have to turn, and that would take a considerable amount of force.

If you pried the VANOS off without removing the bolts that connect it to the splined shafts, part #9 here:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BW53&mospid=47707&btnr=11_2170&hg=11&fg=15

the cam locks would allow you to just push them back in without having to reposition the cams. That might sound like an unnecessary precaution but when you are writing instructions that 1000's of mechanics are going to follow it makes sense.

Just my .02

[Stewbie]

If you guys would like, i can provide repair instructions for this particular job.

A good diy would be appreciated by all.

[wertyu78]

GLWS, looks like the PO of the VANOS unit followed the BMW 15k service interval.... ew! Somebody should pick this up and rebuild it with Beisan systems seals so it's just an easy swap job rather than remove, rebuild, and re-install. Then they can sell their old one for someone to do the same.

[Stewbie]

Just discovered that Pelican Parts has a decent DIY for VANOS removal (http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-3-Series-E46/17-ENGINE-VANOS_Actuator_Replacement/17-ENGINE-VANOS_Actuator_Replacement.htm). It includes procedures for locking the crank and the cams.

They actually have lots of other DIY articles (http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/tech_main_e46.htm) as well.