Help me generate my 90,000 mile maintenance/upgrade to-do list! 2005 330cic 6-speed!

[Cabrio330]

Bought this car with 80k miles and it now has 90k. Maintenance records were scarce, so assume that none of the important preventative maintenance has been done (e.g., expansion tank). I have set aside resources ($$) to address the most important items, and will consider nice-to-do items if possible. I intend to use a nearby independent shop that is pretty honest, but I think they work best when given specific tasks, part numbers, etc. - i.e., they are good guys but I don't want to rely on them to suggest work or parts. For that, I trust and prefer the Mafia! I read through many threads here to learn more, the sticky on reliability and Words of Wisdom for New Guys were particularly helpful.

Here is what I have in mind so far, no particular order, so please comment, add or make suggestions on specific parts:

1. Cooling system overhaul - expansion tank, water pump (metal), water pump pulley, belts, t-stat, etc. - how about ECS Cooling System Refresh Kit Level 1? Any idea why their level 2 & 3 kits are only for <10/2002 production?

2. Normal Inspection 2 Service - oil, filters (oil, cabin, fuel, air) and spark plugs. ECS Inspection 2 kit ok?

3. DISA Valve - no rattling or rough/low idle, and no lean codes, so assume I am o.k. Will ask shop to inspect and confirm o.k.

4. Suspension - this is where I am most uninformed and could use the most help. I am not experiencing any problems, but then again, how would I know without a brand new set-up to compare? But at this mileage, I expect members can suggest specific parts to address either because they are due or on a preventative basis. Control arms? Bushings? What else? I am thinking maybe the ECS Level 1 Refresh kits for front and rear, plus I already have the reinforcement plates to install. If you have other ideas about specific parts and sources (OEM v. aftermarket), let me know.

5. Starter - I have posted elsewhere about inconsistent cranking, and expect I will need a new starter (battery is good and crank sensor was replaced...needlessly, as it turns out!). I intend to replace with OEM.

6. Transmission - oil and drain & fill plugs - ECS kit.

7. Differential - fluid, gaskets, seals - ECS service kit.

8. Pulleys & belts - recommended replacement in the Words of Wisdom for New Guys thread. Go with OEM for all? If I have funds, I might go with UUC underdrive pulleys.

9. CDV Delete - look forward to doing this!

Battery is good, and no vanos rattle so I don't anticipate doing anything with those. Nor am I planning to do the timing chain/tensioners.

Lastly, I am in Atlanta (Buckhead/Smyrna) so if anyone knows of a good shop with E46 expertise, I am open to suggestions. Otherwise I will stick my guy.

Thanks!!!

Edit: Should have posted this in Maintenance - Mods, feel free to tow it there! Sorry!

[alexandre]

ECS kits can be overpriced for no reason. I'd buy whatever they contain separately to save some $.

As for suspension, here's my post from another thread:


This is for a full overhaul of the entire suspension with OEM ZHP parts. Mind you my car has 220k so some stuff might not be needed on yours. I think the entire thing would cost about $1300 in parts given the right part sources (Genuine BMW at www.faulknerbmwpartssource.com, all the rest at www.bmaparts.com with special order and price match).

FRONT

Struts Sachs-Boge #31312282459 & #31312282460
Mounts Lemfoerder #31336752735 x2
Bump stops BMW #31306757046 x2
Reinforcement plates (optional) BMW #51717036781 x2

Swaybar endlinks Lemfoerder #31356780847 x2
Swaybar bushings BMW #33556751269 x2

FCAB Lemfoerder #31126783376
Control Arms Lemfoerder #31122282121 & #31122282122

Steering Coupler BMW #32301094703

REAR

Shocks Sachs-Boge #33522282461 x2
Mounts Lemfoerder #33521092362 x2 (or M3 mounts Lemfoerder #33526779670 x2 - stiffer)
Bump Stops BMW #33506757047 x2
Gasket for mounts BMW #33526772864 x2
Reinforcement plates BMW #51718413359 x2

RTAB Lemfoerder #33326770786 x2 (or M3 RTAB Lemfoerder #33326770817 x2 - stiffer)

I would skip the control arms at 90k, but everything else is worth replacing if it's original.

[ranger]

I shopped around on parts when I did my maintenance. I bought some parts from Pelican, some from ECS, etc. - no one store had "all" low pricing. I have been using F1 in Smyrna for my work in Atlanta on my 2006 Mercedes C55 AMG and my 2003 Audi A4 Avant 3.0 (aka BattleWagon) - I have been very pleased with their quality, timeliness, and pricing plus they have let me supply my own parts! They just replaced the brake rotors, pads, and fluid on the A4 Avant - I supplied all parts and the labor was $345 - in and out same day with morning drop off and afternoon pickup. They focus on enthusiast cars.

[Avetiso]

ECS kits can be overpriced for no reason. I'd buy whatever they contain separately to save some $.

As for suspension, here's my post from another thread:



I would skip the control arms at 90k, but everything else is worth replacing if it's original.
So why did you decide to go with OEM vs. coilovers?

[alexandre]

So why did you decide to go with OEM vs. coilovers?

Cheaper, and I didn't want a drop - our roads here are garbage, and I'm happy all-around with the OEM setup. I didn't do everything in that list btw - the front was well taken care of by the POs. The entire rear suspension is getting swapped out in 2 weeks though - this was trashed.

[az3579]

ECS kits can be overpriced for no reason. I'd buy whatever they contain separately to save some $.

As for suspension, here's my post from another thread:



I would skip the control arms at 90k, but everything else is worth replacing if it's original.

I wouldn't skip the control arms. The ball joints are attached to the control arms and are not replaceable. If those go, you will get clunking, as well as a screwed up alignment, which will lead to badly worn tires and possibly malfunctioning DSC. Ask me how I know. :shifty

[Lanister]

I'd also look into the CCV refresh as well as upper and lower boots. I'm at 91k and my upper boot is showing signs of demise. Here's what I bought from ECS recently:

11617533400 - Cold Climate Oil Separator Kit - Level 2 (comes with lower intake boot)
13541438761 - Air Intake Boot ES#34025 (Upper boot)
13327503677 - F-Connector ES#33009 (cheap part but tends to snap during boot refresh)

I've also noticed that my brake booster vacuum hose is hard a rock, which shows that it's dried up and would snap if I try to bend it. So I ordered it too.

34336751108 - Brake Booster Vacuum Hose ES#61832

CCV failure can cause engine to burn oil and collect crud. Better do it sooner than later. Do some searches on CCV if you'd like to learn more.

[ELCID86]

13327503677 - F-Connector ES#33009 (cheap part but tends to snap during boot refresh)

+1, don't mess with this unless you have one on standby. I learned the hard way.

[Cabrio330]

Already several excellent and useful replies - thank you, gentlemen!

[danewilson77]

I would go with the level 2 kit, and I didn't see you mention:

1. Brakes > Rotors / Pads / Fluid flush.

2. Lubricate sunroof guide rails / pins.

3. Upper / Lower intake boots.

4. Ensure you have a complete trunk tool kit.

5. May want to think about O2 sensor replacement as well.

Additionally, I'm at 193k miles on the original starter, as a data point.

[WOLFN8TR]

I would recommend doing the VCG (valve cover gasket) when doing the spark plugs.

Also the OFHG (oil filter housing gasket). Mine started leaking at 90K really bad. I would do the CCV while your in there also. When the OFH is off the CCV is easier to get to.

"OIL FILTER HOUSING"

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/07/upynyqyh.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/07/2a3u7u2a.jpg
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[danewilson77]

I would recommend doing the VCG (valve cover gasket) when doing the spark plugs.

Also the OFHG (oil filter housing gasket). Mine started leaking at 90K really bad. I would do the CCV while your in there also. When the OFH is off the CCV is easier to get to.

"OIL FILTER HOUSING"

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/07/upynyqyh.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/07/2a3u7u2a.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/07/9ebuzy2y.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/07/ny2y5usu.jpg

He didn't mention VANOS either which would cover the VCG.

[Lanister]

Sounds like you need a brand new car mate ;)

[Cabrio330]

Sounds like you need a brand new car mate ;)

Hah! Yeah, when I start adding all of this up, it is pretty daunting! So I will prioritize and phase this stuff out as much as possible. The car is great and I intend to keep it for a while, so it is worth the investment in upkeep. Keep the replies coming - I appreciate the advice and ideas!

[Lanister]

Hah! Yeah, when I start adding all of this up, it is pretty daunting! So I will prioritize and phase this stuff out as much as possible. The car is great and I intend to keep it for a while, so it is worth the investment in upkeep. Keep the replies coming - I appreciate the advice and ideas!

I'm in exactly the same boat. Thinking about all the work to be done (and money spent) is quite daunting indeed. But once I get behind the wheel of the thing, it all makes sense :)

[echo46]

I would consider the Beisan Vanos refresh with the anti rattle kit. I did it on my ZHP at 70,000 as preventive maintenance. By the way, Lanister, my first car was a yellow Karmann Ghia. I put 200,000 miles on that car then the damn floor rusted out and my foot went through it.

[Lanister]

I've never personally owned one but when done right, they're pretty sexy :)

[echo46]

Agree, also had a bullet proof air cool engine.

[WOLFN8TR]

FYI- My ZHP didn't have the VANOS rattle and I did the Beisan kit anyway. It ran noticeably better afterward.

It rebuilt my DISA with the GAS kit after reading how the pin in the flap could possibly come out and get sucked into the engine. I wanted the piece of mind knowing this wasn't a issue anymore. Plus the car ran alot better afterward.

[ELCID86]

FYI- My ZHP didn't have the VANOS rattle and U did the Beisan kit anyway. It ran noticeably better afterward.

It rebuilt my DISA with the GAS kit after reading how the pin in the flap could possibly come out and get sucked into the engine. I wanted the piece of mind knowing this wasn't a issue anymore. Plus the car ran alot better afterward.
Crap, now you have me thinking..worrying...

[WOLFN8TR]

I would at least inspect the DISA to make sure it's ok. Mine wasn't to the point of failure but it was sloppy.