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tayyib330i
10-08-2014, 06:20 PM
Alright so last week I noticed my car was having problems on cold starts and car went limp, (that cog of death, but no other lights came on) but was resolved once I turned the car off and started it back up . I then checked my fuses when I got home and realized the secondary air pump fuse was blown. Got myself a new fuse and car was running fine. The next day starting up cold was fine and driving was fine till I hit like 60km (revving at 2100/2400) , the car would lag and make this weird thud. That scared the s*****t outta me. Ever since then I've been waiting till car has warmed up fully before driving.
Car hasn't done that again since but it stills feels laggy.
My idle is perfect on the car tho. Changed my ccv and all tubes (came in a winterized kit from ecs) , new disa, cleaned icv and throttle body. Also changed DR speed sensor and oil level sensor, fcabs (irrelevant haha)

Soooo I really don't know what's wrong. I've read everything from transmission wiring harness, to intake camshaft position sensor, to a whole f****n tranny swap!!!! Please help me if any of you have been through this! Canadian winter is on it's way and in no way am I prepared. All the help will b greatly appreciated!

I am going to get my tranny fluid flushed and filter changed asap cuz that ATF fluid looks really gross .

WOLFN8TR
10-08-2014, 07:51 PM
FYI from what I've read do not flush the tranny. Drain it and change the oil and filter. Do it again in approx 3,000 miles to get all the old fluid out.

tayyib330i
10-08-2014, 09:06 PM
Thanks for the heads up! Will make sure to do that :)
Also vehicle is standing at 125k (miles), drove car tonight and no problems , just that same hesitation sometimes when the auto Is down or up shifting from 4 to 5

WOLFN8TR
10-09-2014, 03:44 AM
I had an issue with my transmission shifting from 4th to 5th before changing my Trans oil. Doesn't do it hardly at all anymore.

az3579
10-09-2014, 04:06 AM
FYI from what I've read do not flush the tranny. Drain it and change the oil and filter. Do it again in approx 3,000 miles to get all the old fluid out.

What exactly is the difference between an oil change and a flush? I thought they were pretty much one in the same?

Johnmadd
10-09-2014, 06:21 AM
What exactly is the difference between an oil change and a flush? I thought they were pretty much one in the same?

Flushing takes the viscous material away from the insides.

az3579
10-09-2014, 06:53 AM
Flushing takes the viscous material away from the insides.

What exactly is the difference though in process? You have to drain it to flush it, don't you? That would be the same as an oil change.

ELCID86
10-09-2014, 07:20 AM
^ I think some shops use a machine to flush. I've heard issues with the filters and particulates. Drain and swap is better.

TigerTater
10-09-2014, 07:31 AM
I did the double drain and fill and my tranny is as stout as ever. Nice crisp shifts!!

tayyib330i
10-09-2014, 08:22 AM
Alright so plan is to do double drain and swap this weekend.
I have to take the car in to my friends shop to get my rcabs, rear/front swaybar end links, and finish off with alignment.
So I'll get them to drain and swap my ATF (I'll make sure they don't try flushing hahaha) but then I'll have to do it again after a few k right ?

danewilson77
10-09-2014, 08:36 AM
Right. Flushing (process under pressure) is sometimes detrimental as compared to draining (gravity).

az3579
10-09-2014, 08:44 AM
Gotcha. Didn't realize flushing involved pressure. If anything, I thought pressure would be more effective, but now knowing that flushing involves pressure lets me see how that would be a problem with these auto's. Thanks guys.

danewilson77
10-09-2014, 09:03 AM
Found this as well.


A power flush isn't a good idea as it can break loose crud in the transmission and plug up valves. A much better approach is a couple of drain/refills as they don't shock the system. You'll get about 2/3 of the fluid out on a drain where the pan is dropped, which should be done on at least the first drain/refill along with a filter change. So if you do a fluid & filter change and then do at least one more simple drain and refill after a few hundred miles you'll get almost all of the old fluid out.

It would be best to do a fluid change at about every 50k, but certainly by 100k. It is important to use the right fluid. Some BMW transmissions use Dexron and others use a special Esso fluid. Until recently the special Esso fluid had no substitutes, but Amsoil and Pentosin both have fluids now that can be substitued for the unobtanium (and pricey)
Esso.

Changing the fluid isn't a super simple procedure, but then it isn't rocket science either. Because there's no dipstick you can only check the level with the car level on jackstands or a lift and the fluid between 30 & 50C by checking for a small stream of fluid from the fill plug with the car running and in park (and A/C on). The Bentley manual has the procedure.

WOLFN8TR
10-09-2014, 09:55 AM
What exactly is the difference between an oil change and a flush? I thought they were pretty much one in the same?

Sorry for the late reply, the pros beat me to it. [emoji106]

tayyib330i
10-10-2014, 11:04 AM
alright so went to the dealership and they want 45$ for a liter of ATF2, and i read im gunna need like 10x that . so what have you guys done to get around this? ive been looking up and people have used mercon, Esso LT 71141, Redline D4 ATF etc. so which is the best for the buck. ill have to order the pan gasket and filter, so i guess i wont be driving for a good 2-3 weeeks..

guy at the dealership told me to just go my friends shop n just check if the fluid needs to be topped off cuz "its lifetime" hahaha but i dont think any fluid can last a life time.

danewilson77
10-10-2014, 11:12 AM
I use Redline. It's done a good job.

No flame suit required!

tayyib330i
10-10-2014, 11:22 AM
thanks Dane, thanks for ur quick responses! i owe you! ordering this complete kit from ecs http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Search/SiteSearch/Automatic_Transmission/ES2523867/

is there anything else you think would be causing this to happen the gears?! should i just order and install the intake camshaft position sensor too just in case?

danewilson77
10-10-2014, 11:39 AM
Make sure you know what sticker you have on your tranny.

The friendliest forum on the planet.

tayyib330i
10-10-2014, 11:41 AM
okk ill get under and check. but guy at bmw wrote this on a piece of paper, ATF 2 A5s 325z, thats the zf tranny right?!

Dave1027
10-11-2014, 08:09 AM
I'm running Valvoline Dexron 6 with the GM 390 steptronic. Works perfect.

TigerTater
10-11-2014, 03:14 PM
I'm running Valvoline Dexron 6 with the GM 390 steptronic. Works perfect.

+1 for me as well. Gm trans. Plus it's cost effective and can be found local. Buy the filter kit from pelican parts and save some $$

Re use your tranny pan bolts no need for new ones.

tayyib330i
10-16-2014, 02:13 PM
bmw told me i have the A5s 325z, thats the zf tranny right?! thats what i got from my research, anyone know of an alternative oil ? or should i just order the zf oil from pelican, (being in canada sucks cuz of the customs...:/)

Simmsled
10-21-2014, 12:18 PM
That sounds right...
In the US, all Step transmissions are supposedly GM in ZHPs as the switch to the GM tranny occurred before a Step was available in the US.
Since you look to not be in the US... and you have an 03 330i, it is more likely to be a ZF.

Whitexi
11-01-2014, 09:05 AM
If I recall the A5S 360R and A5S 390R are the GM auto boxes.

johnrando
11-01-2014, 07:21 PM
Changed the title to automatic from auto-tragic. Let us know how it goes.

tayyib330i
11-02-2014, 09:36 AM
well last 3 weeeks have been intense with midterms, and the buses werent running due a strike here in saskatoon ! soo hectic. i can finally sit down and order my parts. ill keep you all posted.
and thank you john for doin that!

tayyib330i
11-10-2014, 10:16 AM
alright i got some new questions. got a week off so hoping to get some work done. i finally got hold of a place that has redline fluid in town but the filter n gasket will take a while to come in. so should i just do a drain and fill with new fluid (keeping the filter in), then when the filter comes in redo it?

TigerTater
11-10-2014, 11:21 AM
Thts a lot of work to put up on stands just to drain and re fill and then do it again a week or so later. I did the double fill and drain all at once while up on jack stands. Just put in gear and roll through the gears slowly. Make sure your dsc is off otherwise the car will sense loss of traction and deploy the brakes. Ask me how I know. Also make sure the pan is level not just the car...the pan is angled to hold more fluid on one end. I had to lift my rear end significantly higher than the front of the car, this also ensures proper fill level when you add new fluid. Hope this helps.

WOLFN8TR
11-10-2014, 11:31 AM
X2...

Wait for everything and do it once as its kinda a PITA job.
Ecstuning has the Redline kits.

tayyib330i
11-11-2014, 11:30 AM
well im not planning on doing it in my garage, will be taking car to friends shop, im not dealing with jack stands with this pita job! haha! and i was going to order the full kits from ecs, but shipping is equal price to the shipping... but thanks for the heads up wolf!
im just going to wait for the filter/gasket to come in, then ill just do what u said tigertater. just do a double drain n fill at the shop.

car has been driving fine as long as i dont get into fifth ! so annoying tho, plus snow just hit us hard!

Dave1027
11-15-2014, 09:49 AM
Just put in gear and roll through the gears slowly. Make sure your dsc is off otherwise the car will sense loss of traction and deploy the brakes. Ask me how I know.

I kept my foot on the brake while cycling through the gears. Didn't do anything with DSC.

TigerTater
11-15-2014, 07:00 PM
I kept my foot on the brake while cycling through the gears. Didn't do anything with DSC.

Yes but I wanted the trans to run through gears not just select them, so that the oil actually cycled through the cooler as well. Helps increase the amount of ATF that actually gets cycled out/through the system.

Dave1027
01-04-2015, 09:27 AM
I'm running Valvoline Dexron 6 with the GM 390 steptronic. Works perfect.

Revisiting this because I was getting some odd transmission behavior with the cold weather. Did some researching which led me to believe the original fluid for this transmission was dex 3 compatible which is a thicker fluid than dex 6. Decided to try some dex 3 and notice the tranny does seem to have more "traction". It shifts at slightly lower RPMs. Seems to move better in 1st gear. The down side could be that I have lost a slight amount of mpg. Still researching.

Pip
01-04-2015, 02:05 PM
Revisiting this because I was getting some odd transmission behavior with the cold weather. Did some researching which led me to believe the original fluid for this transmission was dex 3 compatible which is a thicker fluid than dex 6. Decided to try some dex 3 and notice the tranny does seem to have more "traction". It shifts at slightly lower RPMs. Seems to move better in 1st gear. The down side could be that I have lost a slight amount of mpg. Still researching.
Can you elaborate on cold? Was it not wanting to move until warm?

Dave1027
01-04-2015, 02:19 PM
Hey Sean,

Yes. Slow moving till I got a half block down the street then it began to get full power to the wheels gradually. I had full power by the time I got to the end of the block.

Pip
01-05-2015, 08:14 AM
Hey Sean,

Yes. Slow moving till I got a half block down the street then it began to get full power to the wheels gradually. I had full power by the time I got to the end of the block.
I always wondered if that was the fluid. I had a similar thing happen once but it doesn't really get that cold in Sac especially when storing the car in the garage. Hope the new owner doesn't experience this and get taken by a shop.

WOLFN8TR
01-05-2015, 09:44 AM
Lately it's been pretty cold here in the mornings, 27-37 degrees. My car was stored in the garage up until I bought the ///M. Usually I start it and let it warm up a few minutes and drive off. I started noticing the car felt really sluggish on cold mornings. I thought it was the sign of some tranny problems. This morning my ZHP was outside in the driveway and it was 37 degrees. I started the car and let it warm up for approx 10 minutes. Drove off with NO problems. I never had any issues until I changed the oil, I used Redline. Thicker Redline oil vs oem?

Dave1027
01-05-2015, 06:29 PM
On paper, Redline D4 sounds like a great substitute for oem. The viscosity numbers are close with Redline D4 being a little thinner. Being a synthetic, D4 does not shear down like the oem Texaco ETL.

Pip
01-05-2015, 06:57 PM
On paper, Redline D4 sounds like a great substitute for oem. The viscosity numbers are close with Redline D4 being a little thinner. Being a synthetic, D4 does not shear down like the oem Texaco ETL.
For sure but I had some issues that no zhp owners but me have reported.

I had some slipping between 1-2 with OEM, worse with D4, and about same as OEM with Dex 6 but that had the cold start problem.

Dave1027
01-12-2015, 10:19 AM
I think I might have the problem resolved.

I replaced the TCC solenoid in the valve body. Did that along with a new filter and 6 quarts of Mobil 1 full synthetic ATF. $17 for the solenoid, $30 for the filter and $60 for the fluid. Total $107 and it feels almost like a new tranny.

I got the information from this thread. (http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=893453)

I have only tested out two mornings so far and this morning was a balmy 39F. Not super cold but it seems like the throttle is more responsive. Only have to press the gas pedal a small amount gets the car moving.

Pip
01-13-2015, 09:05 AM
So what does the TCC solenoid do? Confused how it is supposed to help but good to hear it did.

Dave1027
01-13-2015, 09:18 AM
I'm not entirely sure but it seems to control the torque converter specifically it's engagement.

When I compared the new solenoid with the old one, the big difference that I could see was the o-rings on it. The new part's o-rings were definitely fatter and because of that I struggled a little installing it. I don't know if the new part came with upgraded o-rings or the old ones had flattened or shrunk with age but I'm thinking the tighter fitting o-rings will help with sealing. It could be that the cold start issue is due to the o-rings not sealing and once they warm up a bit they seal better and then the torque converter engages more.