Contemplating Convertible with Top and Exhaust Problems

[wstr75]

I located a 2004 ZHP convertible 6MT with 120K miles and it is located at a BMW dealership. The dealership is looking to auction the car as it fails its inspection process. The failing issues are the exhaust system has been patched up in a non-standard way (their words). The original components are all there but the piping in their words has been patched/hacked. The other issue is the top will not operate (go up and down). The original owner told them the problem resides in the controls, not the mechanical aspects. The original owner mentioned a $100 control component.

Yes, I realize the above information is vague. What I'd like to know from my fellow ZHP enthusiasts what their estimates are for the maximum expense that would be incurred to fix the convertible top controls and to replace the entire exhaust system, if necessary. $500, $1000? to go all in for fixing the top's controls including replacing the motor? $500 to $1000 to replace the entire exhaust system, if necessary?

I truly appreciate any and all estimates and opinions.
Thanks,
Bill

[wstr75]

Looked at some posts on various BMW forums and it sounds like most E46 convertible problems are broken wires at points where the wiring loom bends. Most folks have found the bad wire and spliced it with a new section of wire.

[BCS_ZHP]

Is this car located in the DC area? An automatic ZHP with wheels painted black too? If so, run, don't walk, away from this car. PO had issues from the day he bought it.

[wstr75]

Thanks for the alert. It is not the DC car. The exhaust system cost is not a deal breaker as a good muffler shop can work wonders with a welder. If the convertible issue is a broken wire or hall effect sensor, it is not likely to be a big expense. However, if the top's motor(s) are bad, then we are talking some large bucks.

[BCS_ZHP]

Need to have a PPI done. They told you a couple of big obvious issues but what about others? The cooling system needs a refresh every 60-75K miles, might as well do the belts and tensioners while you're there, OFHG too if it hasn't been done. Was it done once before, is it time for it again? Those 3 items are $1000 of parts plus labor. FCABs need replacement every 60-70K miles, add another $110-125 for parts. Brakes are easy to see if they need replacing, same for tires. The CCV system may need attention at that mileage, a couple hundred in parts and a PITA labor-wise. And some of this may be needed right now, some may be do it during the first year of ownership, the PPI should better inform you about what additional you'll need to invest.

[wstr75]

Thanks for these specifics. I plan to do the cooling system rebuild using the Stewart pump plus replacing tensioners and belts. Plan to replace the DISA and to rebuild the VANOS, too, as well as replacing any ignition related components. I'm an old guy, the kids are long gone and grown. My aim is to get a ZHP 6MT convertible, put it back into always reliable condition and to have fun tooling around any time the notion strikes. In other words, this is not my daily driver but rather my sanity re-set machine where I am once again shifting gears and listening to a good running engine. The ZHP convertible in question fits what I am looking for, I just don't want to have to handle $1500+ of problems with the top from the get go. It sounds like the exhaust is not likely to be a big ticket repair and the odds favor the top repair being a less than $500 fix. From reading several posts across the BMW forum world, it appears the odds are running at 70% the problem is a broken wire, 20% it is a bad Hall effect sensor and 10% it is a bad motor & related components. A 10% risk of a greater than $1000 expense is favorable odds for me the buyer in the big scheme of things.

[BCS_ZHP]

Likewise, I'm in the "experienced" category (OGR - Old Guys Rule), just was offering up some precautionary info from owning/having owned 10 e46s, half of them ZHPs. They're actually fairly easy to work on and at least I find that somewhat therapeutic -- there's a distinct beginning and end to each repair along with some satisfaction versus some of the never ending, unsatisfying projects I get at work.

[danewilson77]

Likewise, I'm in the "experienced" category (OGR - Old Guys Rule), just was offering up some precautionary info from owning/having owned 10 e46s, half of them ZHPs. They're actually fairly easy to work on and at least I find that somewhat therapeutic -- there's a distinct beginning and end to each repair along with some satisfaction versus some of the never ending, unsatisfying projects I get at work.
This.

"No flamesuit required"

[BCS_ZHP]

DW - admit it, you're "experienced" too, you damn youngster...

[wstr75]

BCS, you and I both own 2014 GMC Sierra 4WD trucks! It is the quietest, most powerful and best mpg truck I've owned. Mine is a 5.3 with a 3.42 axle. Speaking of BCS, I happen to collect, fix up and garden with two wheel BCS tractors. I am wondering if your BCS moniker relates to those blue machines.

[BCS_ZHP]

No, BCS is just my initials. On the Sierra, I have the same engine and axle ratios with the 6.5' bed, just paced 1 year of ownership with 22K miles, 3 recommended mods. First, find a stock big block exhaust on CL, I found 2 for $100 each, cut the front mating connection off your stock small block exhaust and weld it to the front of the big block exhaust, all the hanger points will then match up (had a muffler repair guy do the weld for a case of beer.). The big block exhaust is 1/2 inch larger diameter, my fuel mileage went up 2 MPGs, I'm getting 21-23 MPGs on the highway, 17-18 around town, 15-16 in 4WD, no worse than 13-14 when towing 5K lbs. Second, the HIR headlight bulbs suck. Contact The Retrofit Source in Atlanta and for under $200 convert to HID bulbs, the light output doubles. Third, the stock foglights are yellow. Buy some LED bulbs from VLED.com and fix that problem.

[BCS_ZHP]

BTW, my name is Bruce

[danewilson77]

And my name is Dane.

The friendliest forum on the planet.

[wstr75]

Bruce, I'm Bill. Interesting about how your mpg went up about 10% with a larger exhaust. I would never have guessed the exhaust was that restrictive.

I, too, have the 6.5' long bed with full size four door cab truck. Mine is the now discontinued Stealth Gray (more blue than gray) color with black interior. So to get this right, the exhaust you installed came from a 6.0 liter 2014 or 2015 Sierra or Silverado, yes?

[BCS_ZHP]

Bill,
Yes, reduce the backpressure restriction a bit, but not too much, and the fuel mileage will go up. Suspect if I add an aftermarket intake for less restriction on the front end, I might see another 1-2 mpg.

The first exhaust I bought came from a 6.0 HD 2500 6.5' bed with big block engine. But I cut the resonator off that one and it droned at 1500-2000 rpms, exact highway cruising speeds. So bought another exhaust from a Denali 1500 6.5 bed big block and mounted it up. The result I'm very happy with, the truck has a little more grumble at start up but is quiet at highway cruising.
Bruce

[wstr75]

I bought the car mentioned in the original post today and drive it home Saturday. It has 102K miles and runs well. Tight steering, smooth transmission, good running engine, good clutch engagement, good sounding exhaust and the HVAC works well (as well as can be determined in 23 degrees outside temperatures). The upholstery is black leather. The steering wheel is the fuzzy looking and feeling material (Alacantera?). I may replace the steering wheel one day.

I bought the car without seeing the trunk. The fob and the interior release did not work. Nobody at the VW dealership where the car was had a clue how to get the trunk open. From reading several posts last night, my guess was the convertible top's control issues also were locking out the trunk release, too. We will soon know if it is a cheap or expensive repair to fix the control problem. Hey, it is all part of the thrills of owning a unique car.

[wsmeyer]

The top control will disable the electronic releases but the key should still open it

[wsmeyer]

The top control will disable the electronic releases but the key should still open it

And I don't mean the key fob, I mean the actual key... you know, the old fashioned way lol

[cakM3]

There's nothing like having a new ZHP project to work on (unless it's an ///M)! Looking forward to reading up on progress as you troubleshoot your existing issues :thumbsup

[brettbimmer]

And I don't mean the key fob, I mean the actual key... you know, the old fashioned way lol
+1. Should be able to manually open by turning key in trunk lock. Congratulations on the new vert!