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TLL0003
06-28-2015, 02:07 PM
Ok guys, I am looking for some help diagnosing an issue I have on my car. I have a 2005 330i ZHP with 135k miles. While driving on the interstate, the steering wheel has a little bit of play in it, but the main problem is that the tires seem to catch or pull when going over any bumps or even a slight rise in the road. It's to the point where I feel uncomfortable holding the steering wheel with one hand. It feels like I have to over correct the steering wheel to stay straight on the road.
A little bit about the car: I have replaced the FCAB @ 99K, rear trailing arm bushings at 99K, steering coupler @ 108k, tie rods @ 108k, suspension rebuild with koni yellow shocks/struts with mounts, reinforcement plates, bump stops, etc... Aligned after all @ 128k. At 132k I noticed wear on the inside front tires and had it realigned after the shop said it was noticeably off. One thing of note, my front left, front right, and back right wheels are slightly bent possibly causing the vibration in the steering wheel at high speeds. They have been this way for probably 50k miles. (i need to get them fixed).
The two main wear items I have found doing research are the FCAB, tie rods, and steering coupler, all of which have been replaced within 36k miles. Can anyone help me out as to what is causing this 'steering/alignment' issue??

I also noticed some creaking/groaning from the rear suspension when going over bumps at a low speed, like pulling in a driveway. Probably not related but...

Thanks in advance

Karl Lazlo
06-28-2015, 05:54 PM
Make, model and size of tires? Wheel size and offset?

What you are describing is "tramlining." The tendency of the car (tires) to follow the longitudinal imperfections of the driving surface. It's fun, right? Sticky, low profile, stiff sidewall tires will exhibit this behavior. It is further exacerbated when suspension components are worn.

Your out-of-round wheels will certainly vibrate at speed.

Double and triple check your bushings, strut mounts, ball joints and tie rods.

TLL0003
06-28-2015, 09:18 PM
Make, model and size of tires? Wheel size and offset?

What you are describing is "tramlining." The tendency of the car (tires) to follow the longitudinal imperfections of the driving surface. It's fun, right? Sticky, low profile, stiff sidewall tires will exhibit this behavior. It is further exacerbated when suspension components are worn.

Your out-of-round wheels will certainly vibrate at speed.

Double and triple check your bushings, strut mounts, ball joints and tie rods.

Im on the stock ZHP wheels. Bridgestone Potenza RE760 Sport Rear: 255/35R18 90W Front: 225/40r18 92W

san
06-29-2015, 03:50 AM
Could be FCAB again... Mine were shot just after 5k miles...! I would inspect them again...


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TLL0003
06-29-2015, 06:40 AM
From reading it does sound like FCAB, but is that abnormal for the powerflex polyurethane bushings to be shot in that short amount of time? I put them on initially because they were meant to last longer.

san
06-29-2015, 07:25 AM
I do not have experience with polyurethane bushings, perhaps others can chime in, but yes they are supposed to last longer... Normal rubber bushings are supposed to last longer than 5k miles too, but mine didn't, so I got a free replacement... Never hurts to check I guess...


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TLL0003
06-29-2015, 10:58 AM
I am thinking it may be the ball joints on the control arms. That is the only thing that hasn't been replaced, could it be causing the tramlining? Is it really necessary to replace the actual control arms instead of just the bushings?

az3579
06-29-2015, 01:57 PM
I am thinking it may be the ball joints on the control arms. That is the only thing that hasn't been replaced, could it be causing the tramlining? Is it really necessary to replace the actual control arms instead of just the bushings?

The tramlining is probably caused by the tires being the way they are, which is caused by whatever the suspension problem is. You don't have to replace a control arm to do the control arm bushing as long as the ball joint is in good shape. The ball joints are not replaceable on the ZHP control arms, so if the ball joint is bad then you need a new control arm.

TLL0003
06-29-2015, 02:01 PM
The tramlining is probably caused by the tires being the way they are, which is caused by whatever the suspension problem is. You don't have to replace a control arm to do the control arm bushing as long as the ball joint is in good shape. The ball joints are not replaceable on the ZHP control arms, so if the ball joint is bad then you need a new control arm.

Is there a definitive way to test if the ball joints are bad? I know you can test tie rods and FCABS but pulling/pushing on the rotors either 12-6 or 3-9 o'clock.

anandoc
06-29-2015, 04:49 PM
... but the main problem is that the tires seem to catch or pull when going over any bumps or even a slight rise in the road. It's to the point where I feel uncomfortable holding the steering wheel with one hand. It feels like I have to over correct the steering wheel to stay straight on the road...

This is exactly what I was experiencing last year when I would drive on the highways and go over bumps. My car was due for a front suspension refresh so I replaced the FCABs, control arms, tie-rods and sway bar links and bushings. My fcabs were actually not too bad in shape but my ball joints had a lot of play in them.

If I were to guess, your ball joints are probably shot, which is what is causing your issue. Would recommend you look into replacing the control arms (as BP pointed out above that the ball joints are not serviceable).

Simmsled
07-06-2015, 01:52 PM
Could also be exacerbated by a shot steering guibo.

TLL0003
07-06-2015, 08:41 PM
The guibo was replaced at108k. Another though is the sway bar bushings. Could this cause the problem. I haven't had a chance to take a look under the car yet

TristanHunter
07-07-2015, 07:29 AM
The guibo was replaced at108k. Another though is the sway bar bushings. Could this cause the problem. I haven't had a chance to take a look under the car yet

I don't think sway bar bushings would cause your issue, but it can't hurt to check them. I'd bet your rear sway bar bushings/endlinks are responsible for the creaking you mention in the OP.

Just to clarify, is the problem tramlining (following longitudinal grooves in the road) or bumpsteer (changing direction when you hit expansion joints, etc.)?

TLL0003
07-07-2015, 07:36 AM
Just to clarify, is the problem tramlining (following longitudinal grooves in the road) or bumpsteer (changing direction when you hit expansion joints, etc.)?

This is exactly the issue! I have to get under there soon for an oil change, so I will check everything out while I'm there. Any suggestions when I'm actually under the car look at the suspension components?

TristanHunter
07-07-2015, 07:50 AM
This is exactly the issue! I have to get under there soon for an oil change, so I will check everything out while I'm there. Any suggestions when I'm actually under the car look at the suspension components?

So it's both tramlining and bumpsteer?

It seems like you've taken care of basically everything I can think of. Check the tie rods, FCABS, steering coupler, and CA ball joints for play and maybe inspect the struts too.

If you don't find any worn parts, I'd guess your alignment is off or your tires are worn too unevenly. Where did you have your last alignment done?

TLL0003
08-14-2015, 07:31 AM
For those still interested, i think I've gotten to the bottom of this. My initial alignment done was what screwed me over. This was done poorly apparently causing my tires to wear on the insides. The bad alignment and worn tires caused to poor handling etc. took my car to a new shop where it was aligned and I put on two new front tires. Car seems to handle much better now, we will see if the alignment stays correct. Hopefully nothing else is wrong

Oli77
08-15-2015, 07:19 AM
Thanks for the update. Not sure anything was necessarily done wrong with the prior alignment. Our cars have require a camber setting (correct me if that is not right) for good handling which will "eat" the inside of the tires.

I bet most people on the forum have that inside-of-the-tire syndrome.

johnrando
08-15-2015, 08:12 AM
Thanks for the update. Not sure anything was necessarily done wrong with the prior alignment. Our cars have require a camber setting (correct me if that is not right) for good handling which will "eat" the inside of the tires.

I bet most people on the forum have that inside-of-the-tire syndrome.

Correct.