ZHP With Power Issues

[Xceler8]

Hey guys, so I guess my first post will be about my struggles. Car pulls excessive timing, runs inconsistently and is basically a oil drinking pig. I have done the following to diagnose and also am listing what has been done.

Car is a 2005 ZHP with Cam, Intake, Exhaust(catback), Injectors

Done within last 30k miles:
- Dr. Vanos rebuild kit
- Spark Plugs

Recent Trips to Shop/maintenance:
- Replaced Fuel Filter
- Smoke test on intake system (No leaks)
- Pulled engine codes
+ Pulled code for both banks being lean
+ Pulled code for downstream O2 failure (1)
- Cleaned air filter (currently running Dinan Intake box)
- MAF Cleaned using MAF Cleaner

All codes still present after each of the above completed. Car is actually running worse now, below are what I'm planning on replacing next in order:
1) Pulling Spark plugs/ replacing
2) Running Fuel system cleaner
3) Putting 100 octane to see if it is a knock issue
4) Reflashing to most recent software, followed by the shark software
5) Replacing the CCV system with either a catch can or a stock unit
?...
6) Replacing/Rebuilding the Disa Valve
7) TPS Sensor replacement
8) Replace MAF
?....

I don't mind doing preventative maintenance but budget is tight, so I'd like to fix the issue ASAP so I can enjoy my car again lol

[UdubBadger]

Software and disa reprogramming. Then Eurocharged tuning. Plugs I'd at least check if not swap out if found bad gap.


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[danewilson77]

Swap out MAF sensor with a fellow E46 owner as,a troubleshooting step.

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[Dave1027]

runs inconsistently and is basically a oil drinking pig.

below are what I'm planning on replacing next in order:

5) Replacing the CCV system with either a catch can or a stock unit


One thing you do know is the car is burning oil. It could be that the oil is clogging your cats. That could be responsible for the lost performance.

I would go ahead with the CCV replacement (catch can causes too much vacuum in the crankcase) and if that does not cure the oil burning then do the 02Pilot mod. It's cheap and easy to do (and reverse if you desire).

Once you fix the oil burning the cats should eventually clean themselves out.

[UdubBadger]

That's a good point


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[ELCID86]

CCV is a good idea but a PITA from what I hear. Expand on "runs inconsistently".


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[ryankokesh]

CCV is a good idea but a PITA from what I hear. Expand on "runs inconsistently".


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It's really not as bad as it's made out to be.

[Xceler8]

ELCID86: Inconsistantly means under WOT it will go from making good power for about 2-3k of the rpm range, then pull massive timing and fall flat. Next couple of pulls will have large dips in power band, and after that will basically be a pig. No power anywhere, basically different between about 30% throttle and WOT is nil.

Dave1027: Good to know that the cats would not be permanently screwed. Anything that will help that process along like fuel cleaners, lots of pulls, etc.

UDubBadger: What is the best way to go about reflashing the ECU? I'm told that it requires a Windows NT system and software. If/when I make my way back to austin I'd like to take it to where you recommended and get a custom dyno tune for the car, thanks for the shop advice.

BOSS: I will see about doing a MAF asap, a friend of mine in town has a ZHP also so I will see if he minds a quick swap.

[johnrando]

Sorry I'm late to this. Def check out CCV. And, if you haven't already, please introduce yourself and your car in our new members section.

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[Johnmadd]

Coil!

[ELCID86]

Unplug the DISA and see if there is a difference. If so leave it unplugged for a few days.


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[Xceler8]

Good deal, going to go outside and unplug it now. Also if I swap a MAF is it going to throw an engine light on either car. I didn't have an issue when I cleaned mine but then I also had an engine light for a secondary O2 previously soooo....

[Xceler8]

Unplugged DISA, so far seems to have smoothed out, although the car has had issues when it has been warmer.

In general how does the DISA actuate? Does it open as RPM increase or does it close?


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[Oli77]

Good description of the DISA function and application here (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?page_id=1434).

[BCS_ZHP]

DISA supposed to stay closed up to 2800-3000 rpm, it more specifically routes air to only half the cylinders at a time, thus air doesn't have to travel all over the intake manifold to get to its specific cylinder to accept its squirt of fuel before it enters the engine. Above 3K rpm, the DISA opens and air is rushing in fast, everywhere, intake sucking it in as fast as it can and adding the fuel just before it enters each cylinder.

Think of it like the line going into a concert, everyone is orderly, crowded and waiting their turn to get in up until 3K rpm. Then the band starts playing and all hell breaks loose at the entrance, everyone crashing the gates, they finally open it up to keep from folks getting crushed -- same kind of concept.

So if your DISA is stuck wide open at lower RPMs, below 3K RPMs, air is traveling all over the place in the intake manifold unnecessarily, getting lost, not hitting the proper cylinder at the right time, should be a power loss, significantly and unpredictably.

[Xceler8]

Ok read through it, I understood the general concept but that does a really good job of taking into consideration the firing order and how the system relates.

Also it answers what I was asking about actuation and why you guys said to unplug it, no power = it stays open. I guess the car should run without any issues with it open, just loose a little bit of low end. Do you guys know if the car experiences any reversion from the difference in resonance of having the DISA open?

On that note I think we found the main issue that I've been having. I beat on the car pretty good for about 2 hours driving around town with the DISA unplugged and the car is back to making smooth power to redline 90% of the time. I guess the best kit is the G.A.S. kit from what I've read, but I'm debating if I should risk my DISA not being rebuildable and order both or just get the Gold Kit.

[Dave1027]

One option is to remove the disa, check it out (test it's diaphram) then order what you need.

The other option is to get the GAS kit. Odds are your disa is rebuildable. If it's not then order an oem disa then add your gas kit to it when it arrives.

[ELCID86]

Interesting. The unplugged DISA seemed to clear my issues also. I'd suggest leaving it unplugged for a few days then plug it back in and see if the condition returns. My bet is it won't and the car will run better--mine did. Don't ask me why. (Adaptation?).


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[Xceler8]

Sounds good, driving to the beach so it will be a good opportunity to see changes.

These cars seem finicky, u think something is fixed and then deal with it all over... I'd just as well replace/rebuild all problem areas on these cars on day one so I can get a decent stint of problem free driving. For now it's one part at a time


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[Vas]

Disa actuates at 4k rpm not 3k rpm.

[ELCID86]

Disa actuates at 4k rpm not 3k rpm.

Not in my experience. My stutter was in the 2500-3500 range.


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[Vas]

Not in my experience. My stutter was in the 2500-3500 range.


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If you rev the engine and look at the disa, the rod moves right at 4k rpm. Of course this is with no load on the engine.

[danewilson77]

The Disa I believe, by design, opens at 3750 to 4250 rpms.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/15/6e381cc35df1a6dd6d2797a6db5c7f42.jpg

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[Xceler8]

Doesn't matter when it opens. Reading said density and load change where it opens slightly, and depending on the VE of the motor based on bolt ons you probably want to tune when it opens for optimal performance


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[Xceler8]

So not really sure what to make of this. Plugged the DISA back in and the car is back to what I think is normal.... What the heck caused the malfunction?


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