JW77 2004 330i ZHP Maintenance Ledger: The Story About a Girl Named Sheila

[justinwilson77]

Under the advisment of the old man here is my long overdue maintenance thread.

I've conducted regular oil changes and things of that nature; however, I was an amateur and didn't document the mileage.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________

*Purchased 38.8k March 2013

*Replaced Battery @ 70k miles

*German Auto Solutions 1.2 Bar Expansion Tank Cap @70k miles

*Front Driverside Window Regulator Replaced @ 71k miles

*Front Driverside Window Regulator Replaced @ 72k miles (yes...again)

*New LCM with Updated Software (Triple Blink, Rear Fogs, etc.) Shoutout to BP for the programing

*Refinished VMR 701s @ 80k miles(F: 18x8.5, R: 18x9.5)

*Two new Michelen Pilot Sport A/S3s @ 80k miles on rear due to bubble. (see first photo)

*Removed DISA valve flapper (Flapper was looose). @81k miles (17 Sep 15)

*Refinished Kidneys using Duplicolor Trim and Bumper Paint (http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-TB101-Trim-Bumper-Paint/dp/B00R244HCE) @81.5k miles

*G. A. S. DISA Rebuild kit installed @ 83k miles.

*Besian Systems VANOS O-rings and Anti-Rattle Kit installed @85k miles.

*New VANOS and Valve Cover gaskets installed @85k miles.

*New In Cabin air filter installd @85k miles.

*New NGK BKR6EQUP spark plugs @85k miles.

*New Pulleys and belts @86k miles.

*New Mechanical Fan Clutch @86.5k miles.

*Burnt Bowl Retrofit from theretrofitsource.com @87k miles.

*New Zimmerman coat Z rotors and Bosch Quiet Cast Pads @ 90k miles.

*Ordered Rogue Engineering RACEBRACE @ 90k miles.

**Tentative Maintenance Fall '15**

GAS DISA Rebuild Kit - $85.25 - DONE
w.germanautosolutions.com/bmw_solutions/disa_products/m54_m52tu/m54_disa_repair_kit/product_m54_disa_repair_kit.php (http://w.germanautosolutions.com/bmw_solutions/disa_products/m54_m52tu/m54_disa_repair_kit/product_m54_disa_repair_kit.php)

Tranny + Tranny Filter Kit and Diff Fluid
Filter Kit - $110.88 http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Maintenance/Drivetrain/Transmission/ES2641385/
Tranny fluid - $16.95 per http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Maintenance/Drivetrain/Transmission/ES1087/
Diff Fluid - $18.62 per http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Maintenance/Drivetrain/Differential/Fluid/ES2562683/

Control Arm Bushings - $97.87
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Suspension/Bushings/ES2652203/

Rear Wheel Bearings - $61.92 per
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/ES2586866/

Vanos Rebuild!!!!!!! (Planned for October 31st). DONE!
Vanos Gasket - $8.42 http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Engine/Gaskets_-and-_Seals/VANOS/ES23118/
Valve Cover Gasket - $44.53 http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Engine/Gaskets_-and-_Seals/Valve_Cover/ES2792769/
VANOS Seals - $60.00 http://www.beisansystems.com/products.html

In Cabin Air Filter - $23.95 DONE!
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Climate_Control/Cabin_Filter/ES2568301/

Spark Plugs - $41.94 (Planned for October 31st). DONE!
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/ES240578/

**Wants**

Coby Wheel Wrap

Front Passenger Side Window Regulator

Engine Coolant Overhaul

CSL Boot Lid

http://www.modbargains.com/carbon-fiber-csl-style-bootlid-e46-sedan.htm

Splitters

http://www.khoalty.com/bmw-e46-m-tech-performance-splitters.html

New M-Tech II front and Rear Bumpers.

Apex PS-7s

http://www.apexraceparts.com/apex-products/PS-7-Wheels/18x8-5-ET20-APEX-PS-7-Wheel.html

Euro Blind Spot Mirrors

https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Exterior/Mirrors/Glass/ES251460/

Wheel Stud Conversion Kit

https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Wheels/Bolts,_Studs,_-and-_Nuts/Wheel_Studs/ES2959710/

__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _________
This is that tire bubble I mentioned
21623

21624

Updated pic with refinished VMR 701s

21625

DISA Removed
21639

21640

21641

Refinished Kidneys
21720

[danewilson77]

Great job. Front or rear window regulator?

Should do belts with pulley's.

Also.....Coolant overhaul prior to 100k miles.

What's your budget for coilovers? Half of a kidney (I keel myself)? Anyway....what are you looking to spend?

Additionally, Let's do both rear bearings, then do fronts at a later date.

FUTURE:
-Body work, lenses, headlights, fog surrounds.

FWIW....wheels look great.

Dad

[justinwilson77]

Great job. Front or rear window regulator?

Should do belts with pulley's.

Also.....Coolant overhaul prior to 100k miles.

What's your budget for coilovers? Half of a kidney (I keel myself)? Anyway....what are you looking to spend?

Additionally, Let's do both rear bearings, then do fronts at a later date.

FUTURE:
-Body work, lenses, headlights, fog surrounds.

FWIW....wheels look great.

Dad

What all do I need to do the Coolant overhaul?

Also, I was planning on doing both rear bearings.

[danewilson77]

Roger.

Coolant overhaul
Upper and lower rad hoses.
Expansion tank
Temp sensor
Thermostat
Water pump
1 gallon coolant
1 gallon DI water

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[danewilson77]

Options:

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Engine/Cooling/

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[justinwilson77]

Roger.

Coolant overhaul
Upper and lower rad hoses.
Expansion tank
Temp sensor
Thermostat
Water pump
1 gallon coolant
1 gallon DI water


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Im just gonna call that my Christmas list I guess :guns :begging

[danewilson77]

Hehe....

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[danewilson77]

What's Christmas?

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[Vas]

Welcome.

BTW did you ever get the updated LCM with the new software installed?

[justinwilson77]

Welcome.

BTW did you ever get the updated LCM with the new software installed?

AH! Thanks for the reminder, I completely forgot that I did that.

[DKnowltronics]

I just picked up a used set of H&R Street Performance Coilovers from Craigslist for $300. I would suggest keeping an eye out at e46 fanatics classifieds and bimmerforums panjo page. I think there is a set of BC Coilovers now for 800... Also use www.searchtempest.com to search ALL of Craigslist! Amazing site.

[TheFinanceGuy]

Welcome!

That bubble looked nasty, glad to hear you replaced those tires.

Good list you got going there!

[danewilson77]

Stay Away From Raceland.

Look at:

Tien SS
KW V1
Bilstein PSS9
Fortune Auto(Virginia)
FK (budget)

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[justinwilson77]

Stay Away From Raceland.

Look at:

Tien SS
KW V1
Bilstein PSS9
Fortune Auto(Virginia)
FK (budget)

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Question...I've got 9.5" wheels in the rear...how the hell am I gonna good fitment? Im looking at fender flares but damn thats an expensive fix.

[ELCID86]

Glad you took the old man's advice. Nice plans for the car.

I hope BOLC is going well. If you run into a really tall TC 2LT named Morrison, he's a family friend and good guy. Drives a Golf GTI.

Get that tire replaced ASAP. --or maybe you did. :dunno


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.

[justinwilson77]

Anyone heard of Solo Werks? I just saw these coilovers...

http://www.esetuning.com/bmw-330-e46/suspension/coilovers/solo-werks-solo-s1-coilovers-for-bmw-3-series-e46-rwd-s1bw003.html

[slater]

Anyone heard of Solo Werks? I just saw these coilovers...

http://www.esetuning.com/bmw-330-e46/suspension/coilovers/solo-werks-solo-s1-coilovers-for-bmw-3-series-e46-rwd-s1bw003.html

hey justin, glad to see you on the forum...

to be honest, i would pass on those. in your price range, i would look at the bilstein PSS (B14 - the non-damping adjustable units - roughly $900-$1000), or ST for roughly $875. both have good warranties, and are built by reputable manufacturers - you're going to find lots of junk in the sub-$800 range, unfortunately... not worth installing, in my opinion.

peter

[justinwilson77]

hey justin, glad to see you on the forum...

to be honest, i would pass on those. in your price range, i would look at the bilstein PSS (B14 - the non-damping adjustable units - roughly $900-$1000), or ST for roughly $875. both have good warranties, and are built by reputable manufacturers - you're going to find lots of junk in the sub-$800 range, unfortunately... not worth installing, in my opinion.

peter

Roger that, Im probably just gonna save for a few months and snag something around $1,500. Any ideas on how I could compensate for my super wide wheels on the rear? I'm not sure if they'll fit if I lower it as much as I want to (2 inches all around).

Probably going to pick up these around January.

H&R Street Performance Coilover Kit - $1,185.95

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Suspension/Coilovers/ES10806/

[slater]

Roger that, Im probably just gonna save for a few months and snag something around $1,500. Any ideas on how I could compensate for my super wide wheels on the rear? I'm not sure if they'll fit if I lower it as much as I want to (2 inches all around).

Probably going to pick up these around January.

H&R Street Performance Coilover Kit - $1,185.95

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Suspension/Coilovers/ES10806/

those are a bilstein damper-based kit, should be decent...

for the rear wheels... yikes. you could either run crazy negative camber in the rear, massively flare out the rear arches... or get new wheels. :)

:cheers

peter

[Jconlin16]

Nice work! Your car looks great. I need to set one of these up for myself.

As far as your rear wheels, what are the offsets? I'm pretty sure I've read of others fitting 9.5 in the rear, lowered, without issues. Hopefully someone will chime in.

[justinwilson77]

those are a bilstein damper-based kit, should be decent...

for the rear wheels... yikes. you could either run crazy negative camber in the rear, massively flare out the rear arches... or get new wheels. :)

:cheers

peter

Yea Im not too fond of having to run camber in the rear. Im more looking into what I can do to the fenders. Im probably just going to roll the crap out of them and if that doesn't work I'll have to get some bodywork done, i.e. fender flares.


Nice work! Your car looks great. I need to set one of these up for myself.

As far as your rear wheels, what are the offsets? I'm pretty sure I've read of others fitting 9.5 in the rear, lowered, without issues. Hopefully someone will chime in.

This is what I'm working with: http://www.modbargains.com/velocity-motoring-v701-advan-rS-style-wheel.htm

Not sure what the offset is because they were with the car when I got them.

[justinwilson77]

So, I pulled the DISA about 30 mins ago to check it out..Ive been getting a weird clicking from the region of the car.

Naturally, I expected the DISA to be in shambles; however, the DISA looked to be perfectly fine. I cleaned it and reinstalled it. The noise is still there.

My question is: does the DISA valve ever fail in a way other than the typical flap breaking scenario?

[ryankokesh]

So, I pulled the DISA about 30 mins ago to check it out..Ive been getting a weird clicking from the region of the car.

Naturally, I expected the DISA to be in shambles; however, the DISA looked to be perfectly fine. I cleaned it and reinstalled it. The noise is still there.

My question is: does the DISA valve ever fail in a way other than the typical flap breaking scenario?

Sounds like it can fail in other ways, although I haven't really heard about it...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_HWy9gOymE&ab_channel=AskTheCarExperts

[az3579]

Any ideas on how I could compensate for my super wide wheels on the rear? I'm not sure if they'll fit if I lower it as much as I want to (2 inches all around).

Judging by the pic earlier in the thread, it looks like you have ET35 wheels. They stick out a lot, and is a somewhat aggressive offset for lowered cars. My wheels are ET35 as well and they are almost right on the fender. I had to modify the rear plastic in the wheel well so it wouldn't rub anymore, and my fenders were already rolled (by you!), so the plastic was the source of my rub. If I was a fraction of an inch lower, I'd rub in a way that can't be remedied, and if the wheels were any lower offset, I'd rub on the fender lip again even though it's rolled. It's that tight.

You may not have to lower it that much. If you don't want to get new wheels, then I'd say just keep lowering it until you find that point where it's as low as it goes without rubbing. It'll still look good even if it's not as low as you want it. If you want a tuck, then you're either going to have to pull your fenders, run stretched tires (I highly advise against this both from a looks perspective and from a safety perspective), or run different wheels. It looks to me like the tires are already stretched slightly.

[justinwilson77]

Sounds like it can fail in other ways, although I haven't really heard about it...

Well, mine might have failed at the lever or something. It was just weird because the noise is coming from where the DISA is at but the DISA looked fine. Im going to pull it again tonight and have another look.

[justinwilson77]

Judging by the pic earlier in the thread, it looks like you have ET35 wheels. They stick out a lot, and is a somewhat aggressive offset for lowered cars. My wheels are ET35 as well and they are almost right on the fender. I had to modify the rear plastic in the wheel well so it wouldn't rub anymore, and my fenders were already rolled (by you!), so the plastic was the source of my rub. If I was a fraction of an inch lower, I'd rub in a way that can't be remedied, and if the wheels were any lower offset, I'd rub on the fender lip again even though it's rolled. It's that tight.

You may not have to lower it that much. If you don't want to get new wheels, then I'd say just keep lowering it until you find that point where it's as low as it goes without rubbing. It'll still look good even if it's not as low as you want it. If you want a tuck, then you're either going to have to pull your fenders, run stretched tires (I highly advise against this both from a looks perspective and from a safety perspective), or run different wheels. It looks to me like the tires are already stretched slightly.

Damn, I was looking at them last night and Its gonna be tight. I need to roll the crap out of them. I'll probably end up getting different wheels in the spring and using these as a winter setup.

These are what I'm looking at. I just dont know a lot about offset and what offset would give be the best tuck wwhen I slam sheila. :headbang:headbang:headbang:headbang:headbang:head bang:headbang:headbang:headbang

http://www.apexraceparts.com/apex-products/PS-7-Wheels/18x8-5-ET20-APEX-PS-7-Wheel_2.html

[danewilson77]

So, I pulled the DISA about 30 mins ago to check it out..Ive been getting a weird clicking from the region of the car.

Naturally, I expected the DISA to be in shambles; however, the DISA looked to be perfectly fine. I cleaned it and reinstalled it. The noise is still there.

My question is: does the DISA valve ever fail in a way other than the typical flap breaking scenario?
I though you said flapper was very loose in your text to me.

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[danewilson77]

Damn, I was looking at them last night and Its gonna be tight. I need to roll the crap out of them. I'll probably end up getting different wheels in the spring and using these as a winter setup.

These are what I'm looking at. I just dont know a lot about offset and what offset would give be the best tuck wwhen I slam sheila. :headbang:headbang:headbang:headbang:headbang:head bang:headbang:headbang:headbang

http://www.apexraceparts.com/apex-products/PS-7-Wheels/18x8-5-ET20-APEX-PS-7-Wheel_2.html
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1234

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[danewilson77]

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=527

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[justinwilson77]

I though you said flapper was very loose in your text to me.

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It is holmes, I posted that before I texted you and realized that it wasn't supposed tobe loose.

[justinwilson77]

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=527

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So now, if I have ET35s with 18x9.5" wheels in the rear..should I go 18x9" ET35s or just go 18x8.5" ET35 with 10 mm spacers?

[ELCID86]

Damn, I was looking at them last night and Its gonna be tight. I need to roll the crap out of them. I'll probably end up getting different wheels in the spring and using these as a winter setup.

These are what I'm looking at. I just dont know a lot about offset and what offset would give be the best tuck wwhen I slam sheila. :headbang:headbang:headbang:headbang:headbang:head bang:headbang:headbang:headbang

http://www.apexraceparts.com/apex-products/PS-7-Wheels/18x8-5-ET20-APEX-PS-7-Wheel_2.html

I like those a lot.


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.

[danewilson77]

I'm pretty sure 18x8.5 would be a safe alternative, and would look nice.

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[slater]

So now, if I have ET35s with 18x9.5" wheels in the rear..should I go 18x9" ET35s or just go 18x8.5" ET35 with 10 mm spacers?

i think that would be way too wide! 18x8.5" without the spacers would be close to rubbing, depending on camber settings and tire choice... i ran the stock 18x8.5 rear wheels with 12.5mm spacers with -2.0º of camber and rubbed... with 10mm spacers i rubbed on the plastic bumper mounting clip.


I'm pretty sure 18x8.5 would be a safe alternative, and would look nice.

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yep. i think i might go with some 18x8.5 ET45 ARC-8's when the time comes. not interested in rolling the fender lips after talking with my paint guy about it.

peter

[justinwilson77]

i think that would be way too wide! 18x8.5" without the spacers would be close to rubbing, depending on camber settings and tire choice... i ran the stock 18x8.5 rear wheels with 12.5mm spacers with -2.0º of camber and rubbed... with 10mm spacers i rubbed on the plastic bumper mounting clip.



yep. i think i might go with some 18x8.5 ET45 ARC-8's when the time comes. not interested in rolling the fender lips after talking with my paint guy about it.

peter

Well then I'll just do the 18x8.5" ET35s since they dont have ET45s in the PS-7.


Also, pulled the DISA again today and removed the flapper then reinstalled. Left it unplugged. Didnt know that the flapper wasnt supposed to be loose :asshat anyways, that managed to get rid of the rattling that I was hearing.

[az3579]

I though you said flapper was very loose in your text to me.

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:rofl


So now, if I have ET35s with 18x9.5" wheels in the rear..should I go 18x9" ET35s or just go 18x8.5" ET35 with 10 mm spacers?

Definitely run those without spacers.

[justinwilson77]

Definitely run those without spacers.

Okay, Probably still going to roll my fenders when I get the chance

[justinwilson77]

Also, what do you guys think about trim? Mine looks like trash so I was thinking of either refurbing it or replacing it. However, due to the fact that replacing the trim is $400, how do you think a rattlecan refurb would look? This is just for the exterior plastic trim.

[Vas]

SEM trim black.

[justinwilson77]

SEM trim black.

This?

http://www.semproducts.com/refinish-trim-paints/trim-black-euro-jet

[Vas]

This?

http://www.semproducts.com/refinish-trim-paints/trim-black-euro-jet

Yup. That is what I used on the front and rear bumper trim. Removed them from the car, took a scuff pad to rough up the surface and then painted them black.

[ELCID86]

Alt option is 21644

Clean it well first.


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.

[Johnmadd]

J dawg, lowering springs would be the less expensive option and you can spend the savings on the new wheels. I Will go this same route because it is easier and cheaper. Coilovers are supposed to be superior though all I see is adjustable settings as the difference, if you just wanna lower it, j us buy race springs like BP has.
I'm definitely going bilstien sports h&r race springs very soon.

[TheFinanceGuy]

I just had 22PLE VR1 used on my trim, and man this stuff looks fantastic

https://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/22ple/vr1_trim_restorer_coating

Though a bit on the pricey side.


Also, +1 for lower springs. This is the route I plan to go.

[az3579]

I just had 22PLE VR1 used on my trim, and man this stuff looks fantastic

https://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/22ple/vr1_trim_restorer_coating

Though a bit on the pricey side.

Straight from that link:



Due to manufacturer problems, poor backup and ongoing product quality issues 22ple is no longer stocked or available. We would suggest Gyeon or Nanolex for high quality coatings

[TheFinanceGuy]

It is still available.... that was just the first link I found when I googled.

http://www.detailedimage.com/22ple-M57/VR1-Plastic-and-Trim-Restorer-P682/20-ml-S1/

[justinwilson77]

J dawg, lowering springs would be the less expensive option and you can spend the savings on the new wheels. I Will go this same route because it is easier and cheaper. Coilovers are supposed to be superior though all I see is adjustable settings as the difference, if you just wanna lower it, j us buy race springs like BP has.
I'm definitely going bilstien sports h&r race springs very soon.

You mean race springs and new struts right? Won't the lowering springs take away from the ride quality compared to coilovers??

[slater]

You mean race springs and new struts right? Won't the lowering springs take away from the ride quality compared to coilovers??

depends on what you go with. if i went with lowered springs i would go with eibach pro-kits.

the problem with lowering is that the lower you go, the less suspension travel you will have, and therefor, worse ride quality.

i find the stock ZHP height is actually pretty darn awesome in regards to suspension travel, ride quality and looks. i think BMW nailed it.

peter

[Vas]

J dawg, lowering springs would be the less expensive option and you can spend the savings on the new wheels. I Will go this same route because it is easier and cheaper. Coilovers are supposed to be superior though all I see is adjustable settings as the difference, if you just wanna lower it, j us buy race springs like BP has.
I'm definitely going bilstien sports h&r race springs very soon.
Sport or race is the question.

[NoVAphotog]

i find the stock ZHP height is actually pretty darn awesome in regards to suspension travel, ride quality and looks. i think BMW nailed it.


This. 100% this.

I would lower my car if I lived further south or in Cali...I already take my driveway at an angle, would blow my brains out if it was any lower in this area.

JW, you can get those eibach springs and refresh the stock struts/shocks (or go for koni yellows, bilsteins, etc) for a mild drop and similar ride quality.

[justinwilson77]

This. 100% this.

I would lower my car if I lived further south or in Cali...I already take my driveway at an angle, would blow my brains out if it was any lower in this area.

JW, you can get those eibach springs and refresh the stock struts/shocks (or go for koni yellows, bilsteins, etc) for a mild drop and similar ride quality.


but...but...tuck... :(

[NoVAphotog]

but...but...tuck... :(

"you ain't dubbin' unless you're rubbin'" - D. Wilson

:p

[justinwilson77]

"you ain't dubbin' unless you're rubbin'" - D. Wilson

:p

"Dude...it looks like you've got a freaking 4x4 out there" - D. Wilson

Said that to me about a week ago when he needed my jack to slam Nadeen (my name for his car).

[NoVAphotog]

"Dude...it looks like you've got a freaking 4x4 out there" - D. Wilson

Said that to me about a week ago when he needed my jack to slam Nadeen (my name for his car).

:rofl

[ELCID86]

"you ain't dubbin' unless you're rubbin'" - D. Wilson

:p

Low ridin' runs in their blood. :dunno


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.

[cakM3]

nothing looks better than a BMW that has been lowered a bit in my opinion :thumbsup As they say....different strokes for different folks... ;)

[Johnmadd]

You mean race springs and new struts right? Won't the lowering springs take away from the ride quality compared to coilovers??

Yes, springs and struts/shocks. Sport isn't as low as race and probably has a little softer ride but I think it is more in which brand you get, I've heard eibach is generally softer than h&r.
Softer is better for comfort and stiffer is more performance oriented.

[justinwilson77]

Yes, springs and struts/shocks. Sport isn't as low as race and probably has a little softer ride but I think it is more in which brand you get, I've heard eibach is generally softer than h&r.
Softer is better for comfort and stiffer is more performance oriented.
How low is race usually?

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[Johnmadd]

I'm gonna get BP to comment on this... give me a minute...

[brettbimmer]

Yes, springs and struts/shocks. Sport isn't as low as race and probably has a little softer ride but I think it is more in which brand you get, I've heard eibach is generally softer than h&r.
Softer is better for comfort and stiffer is more performance oriented.


How low is race usually?

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So I has H&R sport shocks with Koni yellows. Nice mix for handling & comfort, though ironically a touch low for my taste. I would not want to be any lower than this though - I catch pine cones on the driveway often! Let me know if you need pix.

[justinwilson77]

So I has H&R sport shocks with Koni yellows. Nice mix for handling & comfort, though ironically a touch low for my taste. I would not want to be any lower than this though - I catch pine cones on the driveway often! Let me know if you need pix.
Pics would be awesome! I think the reason why I'm leaning towards coilovers is the fact that they're adjustable. So I can set them higher for my winter set up and lower for my summer set up, which I kind of need because my winter wheels won't be able to fit if it's too low.

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[danewilson77]

Pics would be awesome! I think the reason why I'm leaning towards coilovers is the fact that they're adjustable. So I can set them higher for my winter set up and lower for my summer set up, which I kind of need because my winter wheels won't be able to fit if it's too low.

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As a heads up, your winter wheels will be narrower than your summer set up.

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[brettbimmer]

H&R Sport Springs w/ Koni Yellows. Front is a bit low as a DD, so I do understand the appeal of the adjustability with the coilover setup. I did this in 2014 when they had the spring Koni "shock value" sale which seemed to be very good prices for them. Incidentally stock tire diameters and no spacers yet, though I feel like they will rub with spacers. G/L with whatever you choose, and let me know if I can answer any questions.

21695

21696

21698

21697

[NoVAphotog]

H&R Sport Springs w/ Koni Yellows. Front is a bit low as a DD, so I do understand the appeal of the adjustability with the coilover setup. I did this in 2014 when they had the spring Koni "shock value" sale which seemed to be very good prices for them. Incidentally stock tire diameters and no spacers yet, though I feel like they will rub with spacers. G/L with whatever you choose, and let me know if I can answer any questions.

21695

21696

21698

21697

Drove Brett's car at the reunion and liked the feel. Drop definitely looks great as does the car! :)

[ELCID86]

^ that garage! That car!!


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.

[Vas]

That drop looks great. How does it ride ?

[justinwilson77]

Low ridin' runs in their blood. :dunno

I want more low, and like he said.. It's in my blood

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[cakM3]

I want more low, and like he said.. It's in my blood

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luv hearing this!!! ;)

[az3579]

How low is race usually?

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This is the H&R Race spring / Bilstein Sport shock setup. This is the PERFECT amount of low, IMO. No wheel gap, and also no rub with my 18x8.5" et35 BBS CH wheels.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5582/14851031368_b354742ac4_k.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/19/32cd1da34acb59b8c319a485e5f79b93.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/19/c0e3a570bed0f0bd274726743aaf351d.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/19/b902e99eea809195ea1ba2fe0a675589.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/19/d7f0e253148324b0bb303d1aa46def83.jpg

[justinwilson77]

Damn that looks good, how wide are the wheels in the rear?

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[az3579]

Damn that looks good, how wide are the wheels in the rear?

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Same size all around...

18x8.5 et35
Tires in those pics are 245/35-18 all around.

[brettbimmer]

^ that garage! That car!!


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.
Haha, thanks!

That drop looks great. How does it ride ?
Thanks. Ride is firmer than stock, but still very good and compliant over small bumps. I've driven it on some distance trips this year and it has not been a problem. Good news is that feedback and handling are improved over stock too.

[justinwilson77]

Same size all around...

18x8.5 et35
Tires in those pics are 245/35-18 all around.
How do you think that would fit with 9.5 et35s in the rear?

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[az3579]

How do you think that would fit with 9.5 et35s in the rear?

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Guaranteed rub. I am literally right at the limit of not rubbing. The only time I ever rub now is when I have two 230 pound guys in the back seat and I hit a deep bump/dip.

To get away with 9.5" you'd have to get skinnier tires.

[justinwilson77]

Guaranteed rub. I am literally right at the limit of not rubbing. The only time I ever rub now is when I have two 230 pound guys in the back seat and I hit a deep bump/dip.

To get away with 9.5" you'd have to get skinnier tires.
Roger

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[justinwilson77]

Alright fellas, I need some expert opinions. I recently had the passenger side rear tire replaced. After driving for a while I noticed a rhythmic knocking coming from that area of the car. It only happens at about 25-28 mph when I take my foot off the gas. When I'm accelerating theres no noise. Tried to jack it up and wiggle the wheel to see if the bearing was bad..nothing. Tried to pull the wheel to see if it was hitting anything but the only possible thing I can see is a little bolt that sticks out from where the bumber attaches to the car. I'm stumped. Also, the engine rattling is still there in spite of my short term DISA operation. The rattle is worse when I'm driving the car; however, It is still there in park, just not as bad. :confused

[ryankokesh]

Alright fellas, I need some expert opinions. I recently had the passenger side rear tire replaced. After driving for a while I noticed a rhythmic knocking coming from that area of the car. It only happens at about 25-28 mph when I take my foot off the gas. When I'm accelerating theres no noise. Tried to jack it up and wiggle the wheel to see if the bearing was bad..nothing. Tried to pull the wheel to see if it was hitting anything but the only possible thing I can see is a little bolt that sticks out from where the bumber attaches to the car. I'm stumped. Also, the engine rattling is still there in spite of my short term DISA operation. The rattle is worse when I'm driving the car; however, It is still there in park, just not as bad. :confused

The knocking started after the tire was replaced?

[justinwilson77]

The knocking started after the tire was replaced?

Yea thats when I noticed it.

[ryankokesh]

I'd start with the easiest problems...


rock, etc stuck in tire
wheel weight flew off
tire defect
lugs not torqued correctly

[justinwilson77]

I'd start with the easiest problems...


rock, etc stuck in tire
wheel weight flew off
tire defect
lugs not torqued correctly


Checked all of these. DW77 stated that a unbalanced tired would not nessecarily make a mechanical knocking sound. Tire looked perfectly fine to me when I inspected it the other night and there was not a rock or anything else stuck in the tread. Checked the lugs as well.

[ryankokesh]

Checked all of these. DW77 stated that a unbalanced tired would not nessecarily make a mechanical knocking sound. Tire looked perfectly fine to me when I inspected it the other night and there was not a rock or anything else stuck in the tread. Checked the lugs as well.

Dang.

Have you tried putting the spare on and seeing if you still hear it? That would at least isolate it to either the wheel/tire or driveline components.

[justinwilson77]

Dang.

Have you tried putting the spare on and seeing if you still hear it? That would at least isolate it to either the wheel/tire or driveline components.

Good point, I might have to throw the good ol' steelie on.

[justinwilson77]

I havent heard it all day and come to think of it, the lugs were really easy to take off when I pulled the wheel two days ago. They felt way too loose.

[danewilson77]

Dumbasses

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[slater]

Dumbasses

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LOL. for some reason, this came to mind... :)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=85V1Xewv20k

[ryankokesh]

21737

[justinwilson77]

21737

That at least solves the knocking issue..what about the rattle though? haha

[Vas]

Haha, thanks!

Thanks. Ride is firmer than stock, but still very good and compliant over small bumps. I've driven it on some distance trips this year and it has not been a problem. Good news is that feedback and handling are improved over stock too.

Just what i wanted to hear. Thanks

[ryankokesh]

That at least solves the knocking issue..what about the rattle though? haha

It's not lifter tick, is it?

[justinwilson77]

It's not lifter tick, is it?

What do you mean by "lifter tick"?

[ryankokesh]

What do you mean by "lifter tick"?

Kinda like this... almost diesely


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xckP5RuSe5A&ab_channel=617k122

[justinwilson77]

Kinda like this... almost diesely

Negative, does not rattle when idleing. It used to rattle during idle becasue of the DISA, however I took care of that. Now it only rattles when I accelerate.

[ryankokesh]

Negative, does not rattle when idleing. It used to rattle during idle becasue of the DISA, however I took care of that. Now it only rattles when I accelerate.

Yikes... who knows. Motor/trans mount, knock sensor, loose spark plug, bad gas, etc...? You'll probably just want to find someone who knows what they're talking about.

[justinwilson77]

Installed the G. A. S. DISA rebuild kit this weekend. After I let it run for a few minutes I tried to pinpoint the rattling sound and I believe the point of origin is the VANOS. I'm conducting the VANOS rebuild kit and Anti-Rattle kit from Besian Systems on the 31st.

[slater]

Negative, does not rattle when idleing. It used to rattle during idle becasue of the DISA, however I took care of that. Now it only rattles when I accelerate.

does it do it on steady cruise too? mine makes an ever-so-faint "baseball card in bike wheel spokes" kind of sound, which i think is the flywheel, as it goes away when i depress the clutch.

peter

[justinwilson77]

does it do it on steady cruise too? mine makes an ever-so-faint "baseball card in bike wheel spokes" kind of sound, which i think is the flywheel, as it goes away when i depress the clutch.

peter

Kind of, the rattle is tied to the RPM's. As I let off the gas and the RPM's fall, the rattling decreases. It is worst around 2.5k rpms. As I go up towards 3k the rattling decreases gradually.

[slater]

Kind of, the rattle is tied to the RPM's. As I let off the gas and the RPM's fall, the rattling decreases. It is worst around 2.5k rpms. As I go up towards 3k the rattling decreases gradually.

how loud is it?

[justinwilson77]

It gets decently loud at 2.5k but not ridiculously loud. It's obviously loud enough to hear when you're inside the car and no music is playing. It's also loud enough that my boss asked me what the noise was the other day when I parked near him.

[slater]

It gets decently loud at 2.5k but not ridiculously loud. It's obviously loud enough to hear when you're inside the car and no music is playing. It's also loud enough that my boss asked me what the noise was the other day when I parked near him.

hmm, that is loud, then. mine is loud enough that i can say to my wife, "shhh... do you hear that?" and she can't. :)

peter

[TheFinanceGuy]

hmm, that is loud, then. mine is loud enough that i can say to my wife, "shhh... do you hear that?" and she can't. :)

peter

I say this all the time, with the same response...

Good luck with the VANOS rebuild! Sounds to me like that is your source.

[justinwilson77]

hmm, that is loud, then. mine is loud enough that i can say to my wife, "shhh... do you hear that?" and she can't. :)

peter

Ah, I asked my girlfriend the same question this past weekend to make sure I wasn't going crazy and I got "yeah...that doesnt sound right" :pimp

[danewilson77]

I don't think I've ever seen a vanos this clean. 85K miles.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/31/40bd5625c97271c9940dd410122fc51c.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/31/cefe9c66a8767eb72bf1e4829c666aa8.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/31/091f58cd0099e07229408bacf9fdf2ac.jpg

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[ELCID86]

Looks good! Replacing o-rings or just VCG?


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.

[danewilson77]

Looks good! Replacing o-rings or just VCG?


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.
O-Rings and anti rattle kit. New VCG and plugs as well. Cleaned AFE intake filter. Replaced in cabin air filter, and changed oil.

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[justinwilson77]

Alright so, as you can see, I installed the Anti-rattle kit and all the other VANOS goodies and the strange rattling noise....is still there. So, I have concluded, along with DW, that it must be the pulleys. So, tomorrow I will be installing a new Idler Pulley (11287841228), A/C Pulley (11287512758), Accessory Belt Tensioner Kit (1128783879), A/C Compressor Belt (11287512762), and Serpintine Belt (11287636379). Hopefully this will fix the issue.

[ELCID86]

Alright so, as you can see, I installed the Anti-rattle kit and all the other VANOS goodies and the strange rattling noise....is still there. So, I have concluded, along with DW, that it must be the pulleys. So, tomorrow I will be installing a new Idler Pulley (11287841228), A/C Pulley (11287512758), Accessory Belt Tensioner Kit (1128783879), A/C Compressor Belt (11287512762), and Serpintine Belt (11287636379). Hopefully this will fix the issue.

Isn't there one other tensioner or idler?
22515

This?
22516

Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.

[danewilson77]

He got it.

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[ELCID86]

[emoji106]


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.

[justinwilson77]

So, the pulleys and belts went perfectly. However, The noise is still there. This is going to drive me nuts. I feel like looking for the solution to this noise is turning me into Captain Ahab.....

[johnrando]

Bummer on the noise, hope you find it.

[justinwilson77]

Just procured new Magneti Marelli headlight lenses...watch that fix the noise for some god forsaken reason. :mad

[TheFinanceGuy]

What else is even left at this point to cure the noise?

[justinwilson77]

What else is even left at this point to cure the noise?

That is a wonderful question, I'm thinking it could be one of the other pulleys. I.e. the water pump or something like that. I'll try to take a video and post it up so everyone can hear it.

[ryankokesh]

Hey fellas... when he posts the video let's all pretend we can't hear anything so he'll just assume he's going crazy! Don't tell Justin though!

[danewilson77]

:rofl

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[johnrando]

Like

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[justinwilson77]

Here is the video, I had just started the car and the engine was cold.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LOz8AvTIaLY

[Johnmadd]

Is your car auto or manual?

[justinwilson77]

Is your car auto or manual?

Auto

[NoVAphotog]

fan clutch?

[justinwilson77]

fan clutch?

Are you saying it could be the fan clutch?

[Vas]

fan clutch?

That is what my guess was. But I would ditch that fan and convert an electric one.

[3ZHPGUY]

You could try spring the moving parts with WD-40 to isolate the noise. It should quiet it or change the tone of the culprit that's making the noise. This includes; belts, pulleys and anything with a bearing.


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[danewilson77]

I think WD40 on belts is a :nono

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[justinwilson77]

I think WD40 on belts is a :nono

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That was my understanding.

[ryankokesh]

Does the sound frequency increase proportionally to the revs?

My guess was the fan clutch also...sounds like bad bearings or something. Wouldn't be hard to pop it off for a second and see if the sound goes away.

[justinwilson77]

Does the sound frequency increase proportionally to the revs?

My guess was the fan clutch also...sounds like bad bearings or something. Wouldn't be hard to pop it off for a second and see if the sound goes away.
Yes, it is proportional to the revs. I'll have to pop it off next Tuesday and check it out seeing as I don't have the big a** open end wrench here with me haha

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[Johnmadd]

I got one here for you.

[justinwilson77]

I got one here for you.

In Kentucky? lol

[danewilson77]

In Kentucky? lol
Would be a quick ship if he has one.

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[justinwilson77]

Would be a quick ship if he has one.

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I mean, you have one as well and I'll be there next week..I believe he's referring to the open end wrench needed to remove the fan

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[danewilson77]

Ahhh...I thought he was referring to fan. My bust.

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[justinwilson77]

I believe that my preferred course of action will be to ditch the mechanical fan as well as the auxillary fan and install the electric fan.

The "puller" fan, as ECS tuning describes it, uses the same connector as the Auxillary "pusher" fan. Apparently if you replace the mechanical fan with the electric one and use the Auxillary "pusher" fan connection it will function properly and eliminate the need for two fans just like on the MT.

[danewilson77]

You had me at "hello"

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[TheFinanceGuy]

ROFL - you guys are funny.

[WOLFN8TR]

I think WD40 on belts is a No No

FYI a bar a soap works well on squeaky belts.


I believe that my preferred course of action will be to ditch the mechanical fan as well as the auxillary fan and install the electric fan.

The "puller" fan, as ECS tuning describes it, uses the same connector as the Auxillary "pusher" fan. Apparently if you replace the mechanical fan with the electric one and use the Auxillary "pusher" fan connection it will function properly and eliminate the need for two fans just like on the MT.

Justin I did this on my ZHP and it was one of the best Mods. I have a thread on this swap also. "Mechanical Fan Delete Thread".

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4929

[justinwilson77]

FYI a bar a soap works well on squeaky belts.



Justin I did this on my ZHP and it was one of the best Mods. I have a thread on this swap also. "Mechanical Fan Delete Thread".

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4929

I was just reading over it, seems pretty simple. Plug and play really. I really hope this fixes the noise. We'll know for sure on Tuesday.

[danewilson77]

I was just reading over it, seems pretty simple. Plug and play really. I really hope this fixes the noise. We'll know for sure on Tuesday.
What's going on Tuesday?

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[justinwilson77]

What's going on Tuesday?

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I'll be at the dojo...I'm trying to knock out the headlights and sunroof as well.

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[danewilson77]

Right, but how will we know "for sure"?

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[justinwilson77]

Right, but how will we know "for sure"?

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Well, we won't but I plan on taking the mechanical fan off and starting it up just to see if that changes anything

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[Johnmadd]

Well, we won't but I plan on taking the mechanical fan off and starting it up just to see if that changes anything

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That's the ticket. I bought a huge wrench from autozone and grinder it down to be thin enough to fit to do the job. You could find out sooner than Tuesday if you have a grinder.

[ELCID86]

I bought a cheap wrench set off eBay then sold them when I sold the AT car.


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.

[WOLFN8TR]

I was just reading over it, seems pretty simple. Plug and play really. I really hope this fixes the noise. We'll know for sure on Tuesday.

Ya it's a pretty straight forward swap. What's nice is you don't have to deal with the Mechanical fan ever again or have to worry about it coming apart and taking out the hood or engine components.

[justinwilson77]

Ya it's a pretty straight forward swap. What's nice is you don't have to deal with the Mechanical fan ever again or have to worry about it coming apart and taking out the hood or engine components.

Yea, now to get my hands on one.

[ryankokesh]

Yea, now to get my hands on one.

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2004/bmw/330i/cooling_system/radiator_fan_assembly.html

[TheFinanceGuy]

Here is the video, I had just started the car and the engine was cold.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LOz8AvTIaLY

I just re-listened to this, and for whatever reason right now. It sounds like a diesel.

[justinwilson77]

I just re-listened to this, and for whatever reason right now. It sounds like a diesel.
Everyone at work keeps asking me if my car is a diesel...

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[justinwilson77]

Anyone know if this kit is any good? https://www.retrofitlab.com/en/bmw-3-e46-zkw-oem-md2s-1.html

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[az3579]

Anyone know if this kit is any good? https://www.retrofitlab.com/en/bmw-3-e46-zkw-oem-md2s-1.html

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Hmm. It seems to be the most straightforward kit I've seen... just use screws? Sounds really easy. Everything else I've heard about requires modifications to be made, or some alternate means of mounting.

[justinwilson77]

Hmm. It seems to be the most straightforward kit I've seen... just use screws? Sounds really easy. Everything else I've heard about requires modifications to be made, or some alternate means of mounting.
Yea thats what I was thinking too.

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[ryankokesh]

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?10787-DIY-The-Retrofit-Source-(TRS)-Retro-Quick-System-Burnt-ZKW-Bowls-Projector-Retrofit-doityourself

I also have a set of unused lenses, if you don't go that route. I can't for the life of me remember who they're made by, though. They're the ones everyone was using.

[danewilson77]

Anyone know if this kit is any good? https://www.retrofitlab.com/en/bmw-3-e46-zkw-oem-md2s-1.html

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Looks great. Small modification is required with the included template, but looks simple.

I say do it.

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[justinwilson77]

Yea i think I'm gonna snag this tomorrow

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[danewilson77]

Copy.

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[justinwilson77]

Well, gentlemen, I have confirmed that the noise is the fan clutch. One is currently on order. However, I have a short story for you.

So about two weeks ago I ordered the Evo-R headlight kit from TheRetrofitSource. I figured since I was going to be doing some in-depth work I should take off the fan and see if that was the issue of the noise. So I conduct the same big ass opened ended wrench and sledge hammer procedure as always and then start sheila up. No noise at all. Then Spin the nut on the fan and theres a horrible grinding, thus, its the fan. So, feeling very satisfied I contnue with the headlight DIY. Took me about 4 hours becasue I wanted to make sure I didnt eff anything up. Install the headlights and they work like a dream. Still need a little tweaking on the leveling and what not. So, come 2:30 am on Sunday me and my girlfriend decide to go get some late night taco bell which is like, a 5 minute drive from the dojo. Lo and behold, as I'm pulling into my driveway I see my car is overheated and the low coolant light is on. F**K. so I immediately pop the hood and take a look. Coolant everywhere. No clue what the hell happened. I pull out my phone and turn on the flashlight and sure as shit the water hose is busted. What happened was when I was removing the fan, the open end wrench was sitting on the fan clutch nut too close to the engine so when I smacked it with the hammer, It shattered the plastic connection where the hose meets up with the water pump. So now my car is completely disabled for the time beingm, mind you, i have extremely important and time sensetive business to take care of monday monring. So DW77 whips me over to the BMW Store in cincy and we pick up a new hose and a gallon of coolant, take it home, install, and do our best to bleed with the time we had. Everything looked great and it was idling at standard temp. So I leave and get on the interstate to take care of the aformentioned business and again, my car is overheated. So me and my girlfriend are then pulled over on the side of 71 and DW has to come pick us up again. Later that day we returned to the scene only to bleed almost an entire gallons worth of air out of the system.

TL;DR I almost destroyed my car as a result of trying to pinpoint the "diesely" sound.

Thats how my headlight job turned into a coolant job.

[TheFinanceGuy]

WOW. Good thing DW77 was there to save the day like a BOSS!

[justinwilson77]

Yea he's the man, I dont care what E46Fanatics says about him! :praise

[ryankokesh]

:rofl

[3ZHPGUY]

Glad it all worked out for ya. :)

[justinwilson77]

Glad it all worked out for ya. :)

So am I, almost had to whip my sisters old VW beetle around....:roundel

[Sockethead]

Overheating has to be the biggest fear of any knowledgeable BMW owner... you must of been shittin bricks... I would be.
Glad you got your lights all sorted out too.

[slater]

WOW. Good thing DW77 was there to save the day like a BOSS!

that's what dad's are for!

[justinwilson77]

Replaced the fan clutch and Sheila sounds like a dream! All of the maintenance I've done and couldn't notice becasue of the noisy fan clutch is making her run so smooth.

[ELCID86]

Good deal!


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46f member

[justinwilson77]

My next problem is a quick and rythmic chirp. It comes from the AC vents on a cold start. Could this be the blower motor?

[TheFinanceGuy]

My next problem is a quick and rythmic chirp. It comes from the AC vents on a cold start. Could this be the blower motor?

I have this too. I assumed it was from the blower motor. If I turn off the fan, my chirp goes away.

[Sockethead]

Yep it's the blower motor mine does the same thing. There is a thread around here somewhere on how to fix

[az3579]

Blower motor.

[BMWCurves]

My next problem is a quick and rythmic chirp. It comes from the AC vents on a cold start. Could this be the blower motor?

Does it go away after the AC has been on for about 10 seconds? If so, I've got the same issue and tried to solve it by adding refrigerant, which worked for a little while but the sound is back.

[justinwilson77]

Does it go away after the AC has been on for about 10 seconds? If so, I've got the same issue and tried to solve it by adding refrigerant, which worked for a little while but the sound is back.

Sometimes it does, sometimes it goes away after I turn the AC on full blast. Other times, like this morning, it sings me the song of its people all the way to work.

[ELCID86]

Yep. The hamster wheel. Not a bad DIY.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46f member

[BMWCurves]

Yep. The hamster wheel. Not a bad DIY.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46f member

Anyone know the part number(s) required for replacement? 64119204154? Looks to be $260+ :(

[Vas]

Anyone know the part number(s) required for replacement? 64119204154? Looks to be $260+ :(

Look at the BMW X3 blower unit. IIRC it is cheaper

[Sockethead]

I thought there was a thread somewhere that explained on how to fix... lube bearings or something....

[justinwilson77]

I thought there was a thread somewhere that explained on how to fix... lube bearings or something....

I'm probably going to just get a new motor and regulator.

[justinwilson77]

Anyone know the part number(s) required for replacement? 64119204154? Looks to be $260+ :(

23522

Here's a link to all of the ones ECS has. Not quite sure if the genuine BMW one is nessecary or if you can get away with the VEMO.
https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Search/SiteSearch/64119204154/


Look at the BMW X3 blower unit. IIRC it is cheaper

Are you sure the two are interchangable?

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/64113453729/ES256098/

[Vas]

23522

Here's a link to all of the ones ECS has. Not quite sure if the genuine BMW one is nessecary or if you can get away with the VEMO.
https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Search/SiteSearch/64119204154/



Are you sure the two are interchangable?

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/64113453729/ES256098/

Pretty sure that is what Daniel used. Worth asking him.

[NoVAphotog]

23522

Here's a link to all of the ones ECS has. Not quite sure if the genuine BMW one is nessecary or if you can get away with the VEMO.
https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Search/SiteSearch/64119204154/



Are you sure the two are interchangable?

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/64113453729/ES256098/
100% sure. No issues at all.

I'm on my phone otherwise I'd link to part number but just google

"x3 blower motor site:zhpmafia.com"

Should find the threads with the number.

$110 or something from the dealer. Significant savings. Works flawlessly.

[BMWCurves]

Part number 64113453729 according to this thread:

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?13630-AC-died

Also discussed in a number of threads, trying to track down Pip's DIY referenced in this thread:

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?7894-Any-other-family-members-have-had-the-chirping-HVAC

[ELCID86]

+1 X3.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46f member

[alexandre]

+2 on X3. Been on my car for 2 years and it's flawless.

[justinwilson77]

Gentlemen, In honor of tax return season I have been dropping some substantial green with regards to ol' sheila.

Today I purchased:
Rogue Engineering RACEBRACE strut bar (http://www.rogueengineering.com/rogue/StrutB/RE_RB.html)

Lemförder CABS

Front Bumper Grille

Cup Kit/Coilover Installation kit...yes...that means coilovers are in the mix as well.

Orion V2 opaque Angle Eyes (6200k)...Old ones were SOL due to abuse from previous owner.

Ordering Soon:

FK Streetline X Coilovers OR Solo-Werks (I know I know...I'll explain why in a sec)

Mishimoto Aluminum Coolant Resivoir

Misc Coolant overaul parts (i.e. hoses and stuffs)


The reason I'm looking at the Solo-Werks coilovers is because I haven't found a no joke unbiased analytical review of these coilovers. They come with a 3 year warranty that is only voided if you track your car. Three years from now I'll be in a much better place to cop a Fortune Auto setup like I want.

[BMWCurves]

That's one good looking bar.

[justinwilson77]

That's one good looking bar.

Yea, gotta thank ol' DW77 for shooting that one to me in a text...I think I had the message for about a half an hour before it was on order :roundel

[justinwilson77]

Just got an email...RE RACEBRACE is out of stock until some time in April :( Any reccomnedations for a similar strut bar?

[AggieBlake]

Mason is pretty much identical to the RE Racebrace, but a bit more expensive.

I've looked at them all and will probably go with an OEM M3 bar. It has no pivots and allows easy access to the shock towers to adjust dampers. It's not as bomb-proof as the RE or Mason bars, but it's 90% of the performance for half the price (if you buy used).

[slater]

Just got an email...RE RACEBRACE is out of stock until some time in April :( Any reccomnedations for a similar strut bar?

bummer - the RE one is nice! price is a lot better than the mason bar, too.

this one at ECS is not bad:

https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Suspension/Strut_Tower_Brace/ES127298/

it appears to be a non-black version of the M3 bar, however i don't know if it's aluminum or not. you definitely want steel or CF for a strut bar - they expand a lot less when heat-soaked.

[justinwilson77]

bummer - the RE one is nice! price is a lot better than the mason bar, too.

this one at ECS is not bad:

https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Suspension/Strut_Tower_Brace/ES127298/

it appears to be a non-black version of the M3 bar, however i don't know if it's aluminum or not. you definitely want steel or CF for a strut bar - they expand a lot less when heat-soaked.

I believe the only difference between that and the black one is the color. I'm almost certain it's steel. What about other brands like Turner Motorsports?

[slater]

I bleieve the only difference between that and the blac one is the color. I'm almost certain it's steel. What about other brands like Turner Motorsports?

to be honest the only proper strut bar they've got on their site is the OEM M3 bar... you don't want hinges, you want a fixed bar. the rogue and mason bars are the best. i'd wait for the rogue bar.

personally, i have the ECS CF bar which i think is a direct copy of the now-discontinued rogue CF bar. i got it on sale, and while it is a fixed bar, per se - i like the design of the rogue steel bar a lot better and will eventually get one of those.

[justinwilson77]

I'd wait for the rogue bar.

Yea, I probably will just wait.

[danewilson77]

I'm probably going to just get a new motor and regulator.


23522

Here's a link to all of the ones ECS has. Not quite sure if the genuine BMW one is nessecary or if you can get away with the VEMO.
https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Search/SiteSearch/64119204154/



Are you sure the two are interchangable?

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/64113453729/ES256098/
What's the plan for this?

Also....update thread for brakes and mileage.

Sent from an S6 Edge

[justinwilson77]

What's the plan for this?

Also....update thread for brakes and mileage.

Sent from an S6 Edge
Already updated Dad. And yea I'll probably pick that up as well.

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

[danewilson77]

Already updated Dad. And yea I'll probably pick that up as well.

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
Ok....Son.


Sent from an S6 Edge

[justinwilson77]

Ok...Son


Sent from an S6 Edge
[emoji41]

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

[ryankokesh]

personally, i have the ECS CF bar which i think is a direct copy of the now-discontinued rogue CF bar. i got it on sale, and while it is a fixed bar, per se - i like the design of the rogue steel bar a lot better and will eventually get one of those.

Lol, got my ECS CF bar on sale too :thumbsup

[johnrando]

Nice list of stuff

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[justinwilson77]

Just ordered an H&R 30mm ///M3 Front Sway Bar...Also, I decided that instead of the rogue engineering strut bar, I'm gong to go for my Dinan Badge.

-Front Strut Bar = 2 points
-Cold Air Intake = 3 points
-Perfromance Engine Tune = 3 points
-High Flow Throttle Body = 2 points

Comes out around $1800

[Sockethead]

I hope you're not as disappointed as I was after I installed the Dinan intake, throttle body and stage 3 tune....

[Vas]

Dinan 3 is pretty cool thougg

[justinwilson77]

I hope you're not as disappointed as I was after I installed the Dinan intake, throttle body and stage 3 tune....
You didn't notice any difference?

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

[justinwilson77]

Came home to these in the mail... I know what I'm doing tomorrow after work now...


24690


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[fredo]

Sweet. Your sig pic shows u already have angel eyes. Something wrong with them ?

[WOLFN8TR]

Sweet! V4's?

[Sockethead]

You didn't notice any difference?



Not really... I remember getting in the car and getting on it down the street and thinking WTF? I just paid all that $ for this? Not trying to bust on Dinan but I expected a little more for all that money

[justinwilson77]

Sweet. Your sig pic shows u already have angel eyes. Something wrong with them ?

The previous owner went bargain brand on angel eyes. They wouldn't sit right and eventually, durring my headlight retrofit, completely fell apart. I dont even know what brand they were. Looked like some crap you'd get at a flea market


Sweet! V4's?

Negative, I ended up going with the V2 opaque. The reason being that the V4s main selling point was more LEDs so you dont have that dotted line look. With the opaque V2s, it distributes the light better and you get virtually the same result.



Not really... I remember getting in the car and getting on it down the street and thinking WTF? I just paid all that $ for this? Not trying to bust on Dinan but I expected a little more for all that money

Yea, I mean, it says that the max HP gain is abour 5 hp so that is a little lack luster considering the cost.

[BMWCurves]

Post pics of the Angel Eyes when you have them installed. I've always wondered about the opaque vs. V4s

[justinwilson77]

Post pics of the Angel Eyes when you have them installed. I've always wondered about the opaque vs. V4s


Will do.

[justinwilson77]

Post pics of the Angel Eyes when you have them installed. I've always wondered about the opaque vs. V4s

Good lord that was more than I bargained for tonight..I'll explain why in a sec. Here's the pics.

24718

24719


I had to remove the old wiring harness, no big deal. The PO had wired the old angel eyes into the passenger footwell and the ECU. So I had to undo both of those but I left the original splice. Installed everything and it was working great until I was re-installing the glovebox. I was adjusting the splice and I noticed the dome lights flickering so I decided to remove the old splice and redo it. Again..NBD. Re-splice and it looks good until I start tucking away the splice and a fuse pops...its the 10A fuse that is connected to the module. I replace it with a spare 10A I had (lucky me) but it still doesn't work. Call DW...yea I know...the kids always come crawling back. Anyways, he suggested that I might have fried the new module. Luckily I still had the old module that worked fine. I replaced the module and they came back on. But then my dome lights wouldn't turn off. At this point I'm getting a little frustrated. So I call DW again and he suggests that its because I wired into the footwell. I clip the wire going to the footwell because I didn't want to take the glovebox out for the 4th time and tape up the wires. Angel Eyes work, dome lights turn off, and I go drink a much needed beer.

[Johnmadd]

Awesome!

[danewilson77]

:foottap

Sent from an S6 Edge

[justinwilson77]

:foottap

Sent from an S6 Edge

I take it you're waiting for a "thanks pops"







Thanks Pops. :theman

[danewilson77]

Well done. Let's do some research and we'll tackle it this weekend.

Sent from an S6 Edge

[BMWCurves]

Good lord that was more than I bargained for tonight..I'll explain why in a sec. Here's the pics.

24718

24719


I had to remove the old wiring harness, no big deal. The PO had wired the old angel eyes into the passenger footwell and the ECU. So I had to undo both of those but I left the original splice. Installed everything and it was working great until I was re-installing the glovebox. I was adjusting the splice and I noticed the dome lights flickering so I decided to remove the old splice and redo it. Again..NBD. Re-splice and it looks good until I start tucking away the splice and a fuse pops...its the 10A fuse that is connected to the module. I replace it with a spare 10A I had (lucky me) but it still doesn't work. Call DW...yea I know...the kids always come crawling back. Anyways, he suggested that I might have fried the new module. Luckily I still had the old module that worked fine. I replaced the module and they came back on. But then my dome lights wouldn't turn off. At this point I'm getting a little frustrated. So I call DW again and he suggests that its because I wired into the footwell. I clip the wire going to the footwell because I didn't want to take the glovebox out for the 4th time and tape up the wires. Angel Eyes work, dome lights turn off, and I go drink a much needed beer.

1. Those look great! If I ever somehow end up with a sedan, the V2 opaques are what I plan to get.
2. That sounds really frustrating. I remember hooking up my Khoalty Angel Eyes in my old 330Ci and I wired it like your car's PO. I wonder if that's what they had...

[justinwilson77]

1. Those look great! If I ever somehow end up with a sedan, the V2 opaques are what I plan to get.
2. That sounds really frustrating. I remember hooking up my Khoalty Angel Eyes in my old 330Ci and I wired it like your car's PO. I wonder if that's what they had...

Could've been, but the thing is that I want my angel eyes to turn on when I unlock the car, not just when I'm driving. Thats why they splice into the accessory wire in the footwell. I want to figure out how to achieve the same outcome without using that wire, as it makes my dome lights stay on.

[Sockethead]

Sounds like something isn't right with the way it's wired and it's back feeding the dome light circuit. I have mine wired to the foot well and DME too without issues. Perhaps verify that he's tapped the right wire on the DME? and check the relay wiring...

[justinwilson77]

Sounds like something isn't right with the way it's wired and it's back feeding the dome light circuit. I have mine wired to the foot well and DME too without issues. Perhaps verify that he's tapped the right wire on the DME? and check the relay wiring...

Definitely tapped the right wire in the DME and the relay, well the new one fried it I think, but the old one is working perfectly. I'm gonna mess with it this weekend. We'll see what happens.

[Sockethead]

I had a problem with the angel eyes in Kristen's 135 where the relay was internally shorted. Once I replaced it, everything worked properly...

[justinwilson77]

Yea the original relay was messed up. I just got word from Umnitza and apparently the manufacturer of the relay for this batch of Angel Eyes messed them up. Theyre going back to the manufacturer and I'll get a new relay in 2 - 3 weeks. In the mean time they said I can swap two of the red wires into the relay and it'll work how I want it to.

24721

[yura]

Electronics... always an ordeal. At least the new lights look good! Any daytime pics?

[Sockethead]

Yea the original relay was messed up. I just got word from Umnitza and apparently the manufacturer of the relay for this batch of Angel Eyes messed them up. Theyre going back to the manufacturer and I'll get a new relay in 2 - 3 weeks. In the mean time they said I can swap two of the red wires into the relay and it'll work how I want it to.


I guess that's good news ... :scratchinghead at least you don't have to TS now...

[justinwilson77]

Electronics... always an ordeal. At least the new lights look good! Any daytime pics?

This was at about 0835 this morning.

24725

[Sockethead]

Looks good!

[justinwilson77]

Angel Eyes are fixed as per the previous post. They work perfectly now. Very happy with how they look and the quality of the halos. Over the next few weeks I'll start to get new shipments.

ECS:
FCABS
Front Bumper Grille
H&R 30mm Sway Bar w/ bushings
Coilover Install and Strut Tower Reinforcement kit
Upper and Lower Intake boots

Not from ECS:
Sunshade Hardware
Clear, non-fluted Fogs

Still to come:
Coilovers
Front Strut Brace

[yura]

This was at about 0835 this morning.

I like it. Nice colour!

Have you thought about blacking out the lower grille? It would add some contrast to the bumper.

[danewilson77]

Looks good Justin. Good sticktoitness on the A/E's.

Sent from an S6 Edge

[WOLFN8TR]

Looks Good! [emoji106]

[BMWCurves]

I like it. Nice colour!

Have you thought about blacking out the lower grille? It would add some contrast to the bumper.

+1

[justinwilson77]

I like it. Nice colour!

Have you thought about blacking out the lower grille? It would add some contrast to the bumper.

I've got a new black lower grille on the way. Is that what you mean by blacking it out?

[johnrando]

Nice werk

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[justinwilson77]

Nice werk

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Thanks!

[san]

This was at about 0835 this morning.

24725

Looks really good!


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[justinwilson77]

Accomplished the GM5 rebuild this weekend. Locks work like a charm now. Here's a quick synopsis of the DIY.

Relays I ordered: Tyco V23084-C2001-A303 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/291583347309?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

I followed this DIY for the GM5 Removal: https://www.bmwgm5.com/bmwgm5/

Once you pull the GM5 out you can use a flat tip screwdriver to open it up. Use your thumbs to push the plugs towards the opening. Just be careful not to drop it or to cut your fingertips on the corners of the chip (like I did).

This is what you'll see when you take the module out:

24823

The relays you need to replace are the ones with the blue lettering. Theres 4 total on the module but you only have to replace the two on the left in the picture.

This is the underside:

24824

You can see where I soldered in the new relays. Theres 10 posts on each relay that need to be desoldered and resoldered. Make sure to get all of the solder off before trying to remove the relays or you'll damage the module.

This is a good DIY for the repair proceedure: BMW GM5 Repair (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0zT2UtEU88)

Locks work like a charm now.

I'll be posting up a full DIY after work today, in the mean time feel free to pm me if you plan on doing this DIY or have any questions.

[ELCID86]

Wow. Impressive.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - anonymous

[johnrando]

Nice!

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[Sockethead]

Good soldering skills!

[danewilson77]

Bump

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[justinwilson77]

Large order for my spring overhaul.

Planned for next weekend:

Engine Coolant Overhaul

Oil Change

In Cabin Air Filter

Suspension overhaul (H&R Cup Kit, End Links, Bilstein Strut Mounts, etc.)

3 (yes...3) window regulators.

[Johnmadd]

Do you have reinforcement plates and Rouge Engineering rear mounts on your car already?