GotZHP's E46 330i ZHP Maintenance & Build Thread w/ Pics & DIYS

[GotZHP]

Hello ZHP Mafia:mafia

My name is Nick and I just recently purchased a 2004 BMW 330i ZHP. I picked the car up from a used car dealer in Orange County, CA. I am the third owner of this 105,500 mile Silbergrau SIlver on Black ZHP. The car was leased for a year, with ~12,000 miles put on it. It was then sold to the second owner, who put drove the car up to 104,000 miles. The PO bought a service package for the vehicle upon purchase, but he kept no records. Carfax is clean and shows a few smaller services done to the vehicle.

I've owned Subarus for most of my years driving. My most recent was a 2014 Subaru BRZ, also Silver on Black, that I purchased brand new with 14 miles on it. I drove the car for ~18 months and racked up a total of 37,xxx miles before the unfortunate happened. The BRZ ended up total, in an accident that was all my own fault. I wasn't doing anything stupid, just wasn't paying close enough attention. I will share the rest of the story and some pictures when I feel better about the whole situation as it only happened a few months ago.

This event put me in the used car market. I was looking around for a few vehicles as I was in between jobs, and was unable to finance a new vehicle. I ended up with some money in pocket from insurance on the BRZ and started hunting for the new ride. I originally was looking for a used Subaru Legacy Spec B, or a Volvo S60R / V70R.

The Legacy Spec B basically has the same motor as the STI, which was appealing. 243 symmetrical awhd HP from a turbo flat-4. Upon reading reviews, I wasn't thrilled about the handling characteristics of the car. Also, Subarus are really noisy on the interior, something I have to change in the BRZ. Lastly, the price. These cars hold their value way too well in my opinion.

I moved on to searching for the Volvos. my first car was a 1997 Volvo 850R touring, so I have always had a soft spot for the R. Inline-5 cylinder, 300awdhp, 6-speed manual gearbox. One of my favorite cars of all time. However, being they are really rare and really prone to certain problems, I could not find one with low enough miles i good enough condition to call my own.

This led me to calling a long time friend who is an engineer and a Bimmer fan. We talked for awhile about cars. He pointed out to great observations. First being that I live in Southern Cali and do not require AWD. Second, Turbo charged vehicles are often more expensive to ensure, and it is another major system to have potential problems with. He told me to start looking around for a used E46. What he sent me out to look for was a 3 liter, sedan (coupes are more likely to have been modded or abused in his opinion), with the ZHP Package. Quick google search and I found 2 in the area for sale. The car I have now, was technically sold on an Ebay auction, but the buyer had to sell his current car first and the deal he had fell through. Jumped on this car shortly after.

While I love this car and enjoy every drive in it, it is not without faults. I will be created a maintenance and build thread for several reasons.

1.) To document my work done to the car over the next several months

2.) To as questions and (hopefully) recieve feedback from fellow members with more experience and knowledge than I

3.) Have my thread available to others who are experiencing the same common issues

4.) to show those wishing to join the e46 community an honest expectation of maintenance costs.

5.) Lastly, Show off my ride, my modifications, and HPDE when that time comes.


My vision for the car. Reliable and comfortable (enough) for Daily Driving, but with enough edge and performance for canyon runs and the occasional track / HPDE

The work the dealer did to my car before I purchased it includes smog testing, new front pads, rotors, and tires. New front lower control arm bushings, new alternator, and new Valve Cover Gasket.

I test drove the vehicle before buying it, and it drove mostly great. I could it needed a few maintenance items, so I used this to my advantage when talking price of the vehicle. However, since purchasing the vehicle, I've had several issues pop up. Listed below are items I need to address.

1.) Sound of a vacuum leak at idle
2.) Rough idle on cold starts, car has since started stalling
3.) Lack of consistent power delivery around ~2,800 rpms

4.) Passenger window regulator starting to make noise

these are the known items at time of buying the car. Since 1/28/16, i've added the following to my list of Problems

5.) Intermittent pulley squeak at start up

6.) Radiator light comes on when heat is turned on

7.) Windshield wiper sprayer motor not functioning

8.) Engine running at a low temperature ( This has only happened twice)

9.) 2/04/16 SES light on - P2237 & P2240 codes pulled, both related to O2 sensors, Pre-cat?? I don't remember

10.) 2/20/16 - Rear passenger door lock malfunctioning

11.) 2/24/16 - Oil leak discovered once the entire Intake, DISA, and ICV where removed.

I knew to expect a fair amount of maintenance with this vehicle, as it is 12 years old, over 100,000 miles, and I did not receive a full work history. However, I did not expect so much would need to be done so fast. I am fairly good at being a mechanic even though this is not my trade nor professional area of study. I've lurked the forums a bunch and feel confident to knock this list out.


My immediate plans:
-replace DISA valve
-Overhaul cooling system
-New belts & pulleys
-New windshield wiper sprayer motor
-New window regulator
-new air filter

Next up:
-New spark plugs
-New battery
-Vanos seals
- Mods
-Exhaust
-Angel eyes
-LED Tails
-Square style 135s, suspension, tires

Anyways, I have already begun some work so I'll update this first thread some and as I go along. I'll also add DIYs as I complete projects. I have a NIKON D3000, but there is a problem with the shutter, so once I have some spare funds I will be purchasing a new camera, in the mean time, cellphone photos

[GotZHP]

Reserved #1 - Modifications

Starting to plan some things out now that I have a job again. Once Maintenance is finished up I plan on some light modifications to some very worn parts.

the suspension is pretty much toast so the goal is coilovers and a squared set up. Nothing to extreme on the coilovers but need to stay mostly near stock ride height, I'm already learning to avoid certain streets in Santa Barbara.

I may buy an exhaust first since the TSE 3 is :drool:drool:guns2:guns

[GotZHP]

Reserved # 2

[GotZHP]

Reserved # 3

[Vas]

Subscribed to see what you do with your newly acquired zhp.

As far as the cooling system, check out turner motorsports and the kit they sell. Just add the pulleys/belts and tensioner to the kit. If the Disa valve is not destroyed, you can rebuild it using the G.A.S kit. And most likely your OFHG is leaking as well in that area.

You can knock out alot of the items since they are in the same area and alot of them have to be removed to gain access to other parts.

Looking forward to pics.

[GotZHP]

Subscribed to see what you do with your newly acquired zhp.

As far as the cooling system, check out turner motorsports and the kit they sell. Just add the pulleys/belts and tensioner to the kit. If the Disa valve is not destroyed, you can rebuild it using the G.A.S kit. And most likely your OFHG is leaking as well in that area.

You can knock out alot of the items since they are in the same area and alot of them have to be removed to gain access to other parts.

Looking forward to pics.

DISA valve is pretty messed up. I already pulled it, and my replacement arrived today. Need to do some catch up in this thread quickly to cover the past few weeks.

I plan on the Turner Motorsports cooling kit, came out to around~$700 for all the parts I need. Not a bad deal at all.

[GotZHP]

Ok so some catch up on my car and the past 3 / 4 weeks or so. First thing I fixed was my wind shield wiper fluid sprayer motor. I don't own a low voltage tester so I got creative when it came to proving it was in fact the motor, and not a clogged line or sprayer tip. There was a fair amount of sediment in my reservoir so this was a possibility. I ended up hooking a bike pump up to the fluid hose to see if fluid would flow. Sure enough, fluid dispensed. Ordered the new motor from Bavauto.com for under $20 including shipping.

Very easy to replace, as my car does not have the headlight sprayers. Will create a short DIY and post. Here are a few pictures of the old motor and testing. New one is in and running great.

[GotZHP]

The car is in great shape when it comes to the body and paint, For being 12 years old. there are only 3 small dings and a few light scratches. The dings can probably be PDR back to normal. I plan on doing or having a full paint correction done at some point soon.

I did give the car another booboo though :facepalm Hard to believe the front bumper of the ZHP is lower than the BRZs which was designed to just clear a normal parking space curb block. Maybe my front suspension components are more shot than I thought.

Anyways, anyone know how to fix something like this?

2457024571

[GotZHP]

So we will almost be up to speed by the end of this post. Earlier this week, I decided it was time to get a few work items done before starting my new job next Monday. I am tired of the vehicle idle hunting, having no power at ~2,800 rmps, and occasionally stalling. I went after the DISA vale hoping it would solve problems 1 through 3 on the list in the original post. While order the DISA, I also ordered a new Lower Intake Boot and Air Filter.

I removed the DISA and it was in a very sad state. There was also IMO huge deposit build ups on it and in the intake manifold / plenum. I also pulled the idle control valve for cleaning. I cleaned it using brake cleaner, then used some SeaFoam deep creep for the lubricating quality of the product.

Look at the messed up DISA!!! the flap feels like it is about to break out.

http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/GotZHP/media/Bad%20DISA%20valve_zps5jvchoia.mp4.html

24575245762457724578

[Ssparrow]

Good stuff so far! Looking forward to what your plans are!

I'd definitely stick to turner for the cooling overhaul. OEM parts are key when it comes to the expansion tank and several other cooling system parts.

I bought the cheaper kit from ECS tuning, and ended up having to replace my ET after a month. I've heard of many other stories of people having problems with that kit.

[Vas]

Good stuff so far! Looking forward to what your plans are!

I'd definitely stick to turner for the cooling overhaul. OEM parts are key when it comes to the expansion tank and several other cooling system parts.

I bought the cheaper kit from ECS tuning, and ended up having to replace my ET after a month. I've heard of many other stories of people having problems with that kit.
Ecs stage 1 kit?

If yes the po had that installed on my wife's zhp and it's crap

[Ssparrow]

Ecs stage 1 kit?

If yes the po had that installed on my wife's zhp and it's crap

Yup, that's the one! I actually believe I got the stage 2, but I think that just comes with belts and an ecs pulley.

I have only had to replace my ET again so far but I plan on doing new hoses once I replace my radiator. The ET was failed from the beginning. It held coolant find and didn't leak, but for the life of me I could not get my coolant light to turn off. After multiple sensors and multiple times trying to bleed the coolant, I found out some aftermarket ETs have problems with the coolant level sensors. Replaced the ET with an OEM one and I haven't seen the light since!

[BMWCurves]

Welcome again, Nick.

Smart move with the bicycle pump, I didn't think to do that when I had the same issue. I just went ahead and bought a new pump since the hoses didn't seem clogged and there was no sound when I pulled the wiper stalk. As you say, simple fix.

Sorry to hear the maintenance has stacked up for you, but it seems you're keeping a level head and are prepared to do the maintenance. It does help that you will have the front apart so you can do multiple items at once.

My car failed to warm like yours, the culprit was a failing thermostat that was stuck open. Since you're already doing the cooling system overhaul that should be covered. Look forward to further updates. I hope your new DISA solves your problem rough idle and stuttering issue.

[Vas]

Yup, that's the one! I actually believe I got the stage 2, but I think that just comes with belts and an ecs pulley.

I have only had to replace my ET again so far but I plan on doing new hoses once I replace my radiator. The ET was failed from the beginning. It held coolant find and didn't leak, but for the life of me I could not get my coolant light to turn off. After multiple sensors and multiple times trying to bleed the coolant, I found out some aftermarket ETs have problems with the coolant level sensors. Replaced the ET with an OEM one and I haven't seen the light since!
Yeah the kit had an aluminium water pump pulley. That's the one I had on the car.

30k later and the upper hose failed. It imploded and was about to explode. Expansion tank leaked and the cap was crap.

The water pump was alright and the thermostat.

I have some pictures in the project thread for Sketchi if you are curious.

[GotZHP]

So for cooling, this is the kit I am planning on getting. Going to get a new radiator as well. Just unsure of the new water pump. Need to research OEM vs metal impeller models.

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1987-complete-cooling-system-overhaul-package-1999-2006-e46-323i-325i-328i-330i.aspx

[GotZHP]

OK so new DISA valve is in and..... while my car no longer stumbles at ~2,800 rpm.... it started to idle hunt again after a short drive...... Didn't actually stall though.

Additionally, on top of the huge obvious vacuum leak, My engine sounds to be running rough. Kinda sounds bottom end rough to me but I am new to these engines. It is also starting to make a rattling noise just north of 2,000 rpms. Im hoping I just left a nut on top of the engine or something stupid, but I dont know.

I am going to upload some videos and audio clips for everyone to listen too. My new job starts Monday and I am unsure if the ZHP is safe to drive. I checked oil, dealer said he just changed it but its filthy. Lots of lifter tick noise as well. Coolant level is good. My phone is dead so waiting for it to turn back on and ill upload.

[GotZHP]

So does this engine sound ok? I know there is a vacuum leak.... but anything else?

http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/GotZHP/media/Above%20Engine%20Sound_zpsgvjstsuu.mp4.html

http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/GotZHP/media/Under%20Engine%20sound_zps7fdg2rjj.mp4.html

[Vas]

Sounds like you still have a pretty significant vacuum leak.

You cleaned the icv and installed a new lower boot right? What about the upper boot and the f-connector?

The rattling noise could be coming from the vanos. The noise can be heard from the front of the valve cover and sounds like marbles in a can.


Also for the water pump, go with the OE bmw. I just pulled out a Geba pump with roughly 30k. While it's not a bad pump, it started to rust and felt loose. Impeller was metal as well


http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160226/f9b5efe32c6f205c43e9177d787a194e.jpg

[AggieBlake]

So for cooling, this is the kit I am planning on getting. Going to get a new radiator as well. Just unsure of the new water pump. Need to research OEM vs metal impeller models.

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1987-complete-cooling-system-overhaul-package-1999-2006-e46-323i-325i-328i-330i.aspx

Yes, that's the exact kit I installed a couple months ago. I did the radiator and upgraded to the Stewart pump, which is probably overkill, but I do intend to track the car. I added pulleys and belts. I was very pleased with the quality of everything. Here's my install thread for that kit...

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?17139-Comparison-of-suppliers-for-coolant-overhaul-kits&p=465281#post465281

[johnrando]

Good stuff

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[GotZHP]

I just replaced the lower intake boot today. I ordered one before I took the old one off because I figured it would have been torn and it was worn, but not broken.

I have a bunch of photos from today I'll post up soon here

[BMWCurves]

So for cooling, this is the kit I am planning on getting. Going to get a new radiator as well. Just unsure of the new water pump. Need to research OEM vs metal impeller models.

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1987-complete-cooling-system-overhaul-package-1999-2006-e46-323i-325i-328i-330i.aspx

That's the same kit I used last spring. No issues, everything works. I bought a standard BMW water pump instead of the Stewart pump. Supposedly the composite material in the impeller was improved by BMW since our cars came from the factory.


So does this engine sound ok? I know there is a vacuum leak.... but anything else?

http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/GotZHP/media/Above%20Engine%20Sound_zpsgvjstsuu.mp4.html

http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/GotZHP/media/Under%20Engine%20sound_zps7fdg2rjj.mp4.html

I can't really help you as these issues aren't ones I've ever encountered in person. Hope you figure out your issues, and be sure to let us know what they are and how you fixed them. Oddly, my engine very occasionally sounds like the second video. It's only got 52k miles on the motor so who knows.

[Vas]

With the car running, press the clutch in and see if it the noise goes away somewhat.

Also vacuum leak and vanos.

[GotZHP]

Sounds like you still have a pretty significant vacuum leak.

You cleaned the icv and installed a new lower boot right? What about the upper boot and the f-connector?

The rattling noise could be coming from the vanos. The noise can be heard from the front of the valve cover and sounds like marbles in a can.


Also for the water pump, go with the OE bmw. I just pulled out a Geba pump with roughly 30k. While it's not a bad pump, it started to rust and felt loose. Impeller was metal as well



Vanos seals are on the list. Should probably do them sooner rather than later. I've developed a small oil leak as well, so Im thinking Vanos, fix oil leak, oil change. Should be a good use of a weekend.

[GotZHP]

Thanks for all the input on the Cooling kits everyone. Seems like Turner is a good way to go. Hopefully be purchasing the kit soon. Took a photo of my expansion tank and it is the original. 12 years and 105,000 miles. Thing is a time bomb.

[GotZHP]

Couple updates for today. I posted about this in the trouble shoot thread to hopefully reach a larger audience, but will bring it up here as well. My brake booster hose does not look oem to me. Also, it is collapsing and quiet flat in many areas. Take a look. It may be related to my vacuum leak. My F connected and attached hose are ok, but the upper hose on the F connector could certainly be replaced. I listened inside the car for any noise cause by the break booster down by the foot well. No noise.

[GotZHP]

SO some work from the past two days. Torn down the air intake side of the motor some. New DISA, New lower intake boot, and cleaned ICV. I will write a DIY for this process. Pretty easy to be honesty. Very few tools required and only one I would consider a specialty tool bit that is not available in smaller standard tool kits. Keep an eye out for that DIY, should be up this weekend.


Pictures! :worthless
In order of appearance : Old Lower Intake Boot, Cleaning ICV, Old Lower Intake Boot, Upper intake boot, Worn Vacuum line on F connector

[derbo]

good work sir!

[GotZHP]

So Vas, I tried your theory today after going for a short driving to the BMW dealership to pick up some bolts.

Started car, let it come up to temp, 10 minute highway jaunt, 10 minutes back, parked. With the car parked in neutral it started to idle hunt. If I pushed the clutch pedal all the way to floor, the idle hunt was not as bad, almost not noticeable.

Do I need to adjust my grab point of the clutch? I did this on my Subaru BRZ and it took a few tries to get perfect.

I have a video I'll put up on my photobucket soon

[GotZHP]

good work sir!

Thanks Derbo! Check back in 30 -45 minutes and I will have much more photos from putting everything back together yesterday.

Takes a lot of time to go through photos, find the ones that are focused, download from phone, rename, re-size, and then finally upload.

[johnrando]

Nice werk

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[GotZHP]

Nice werk

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Thanks johnrando! Lots more to be done

[GotZHP]

Is there a better guide for Crankcase ventilation?

I found this one. Looks pretty good. I need to hunt down my Vacuum leak and figured CCV and all other vac lines gotta go.

http://blog.bavauto.com/5434/bmw-m54-6-cylinder-crankcase-ventilation-pcv-diy-325i-328i-330i-525i-530i/

and I found this

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=417819

[GotZHP]

Pictures of an oil leak I spotted when the intake system was removed. Moved some wires and cables out of the way to inspect closer. Also temporarily removed the power steering fluid reservoir. Looks to be coming from the corner of the Oil Filter Housing Gasket

[Vas]

Ofhg usually fail between 80k to 100k. Time to replace yours. And if you doing the ccv do it at the same time

[GotZHP]

Ofhg usually fail between 80k to 100k. Time to replace yours. And if you doing the ccv do it at the same time

Going to replace idler pulley as well. Since I need to remove it to remove the alternator. No point in putting a faulty piece back on. It howls first start up of the day. If I go about 1,400 rpms before the car is fully warm it makes some serious noise.

Throwing a new battery in as well. Parts ordered, just waiting for them to show up. Work starts next week though :/

[GotZHP]

Brother showing up for surprise visit this weekend. I'll upload some more photos from the past weeks work at some point.

[GotZHP]

Some Side by side comparisons. old vs New.

[GotZHP]

Tear down photos

[BMWCurves]

I always enjoy maintenance pics, especially before/after ones.

[Vas]

Nice job

[Ssparrow]

You've been busy! Good stuff

[GotZHP]

A few rebuild photos.

[GotZHP]

Just realized I left the word Build out of my thread title:scratchinghead

[danewilson77]

Just realized I left the word Build out of my thread title:scratchinghead
Huh?

:scratchinghead

Sent from an S6 Edge

[GotZHP]

Huh?

:scratchinghead

Sent from an S6 Edge

Should say maintenance & Build thread. Not maintenance & thread. Brain fart.

Can that be edited ?

[danewilson77]

Should say maintenance & Build thread. Not maintenance & thread. Brain fart.

Can that be edited ?
Dood...

Sent from an S6 Edge

[GotZHP]

Dood...

Sent from an S6 Edge

Thanks Dane!

[GotZHP]

Couple Misc. items from the work past week. A recommendation I would make for those going to replace there DISA. Order a few of the M6 * 18 bolts with the T-40 Torx washer head before you start the project. Two of mine basically stripped out. Ended up having to use a T-45 bit hammered into the bolt in order to pull it.

Also, if you are going this work and have OE vac lines, lower intake boot, and the F connect. Might as well order them and replace them while you are at it. I replaced my lower intake boot, but should have done the Vac lines below as well. Very worn and pitted.

[GotZHP]

Another picture of the T-40 Torx bolts. These two are for the ICV, so is that nut. There are two more torx bolts for the DISA.

I ended up reusing the hose clamps. As long as they are damaged fell free to reuse them. Make sure to keep the tightening mechanism aimed the right way while reinstalling so you can tighten them down.

[BMWCurves]

Nice work, thanks for the pics. I'll definitely come back to these when I have to do some intake maintenance.

[GotZHP]

Nice work, thanks for the pics. I'll definitely come back to these when I have to do some intake maintenance.

I'll have a DIY created soon. I tried to take a picture for every single step, including every bolt and nut and electrical connection. I'll have that up next weekend most likely. Just starting a new job on Monday.

[GotZHP]

So I really want to take the ZHP with me to LA and use it for commuting to work this week, but don't think I should in its current state.

I still have an aggressive vacuum leak that is effecting my idle. Car stalled today for the first time since the new DISA valve. Also, OE expansion tank and I would be in stop and go traffic ~1.5-2hrs to and from work.

Doesn't sound like a good recipe. I can take my GFs 2014 Fiesta ST and wouldn't have to worry about anything but work.

The ZHP needs crankcase ventilation done, or at least part of it one to eliminate my vacuum leak, hopefully. I could order parts tomorrow and get them mid week, but wouldn,t be in the greatest of places to be working on my car.

Car also needs Vanos seals done, so if im opening the crankcase, might as well do those.

But then again, really want to drive the ZHP.... hmmmm

[GotZHP]

I removed my engine covers to better hear the vac leak. Marked the picture as to where the noise seems to be generating. Definitely towards the back of the motor.

EDIT: Arrow should be a little bit more to the left, Noise seems to be coming from there

[BMWCurves]

Really wish I could help, but I don't have enough experience to know what that might be. Part of the CCV I think is over that way, but I'm not sure.

Some people also switched from the CCV to a catch can setup with positive results. Both CarbonZHP and slater have it.

[GotZHP]

Really wish I could help, but I don't have enough experience to know what that might be. Part of the CCV I think is over that way, but I'm not sure.

Some people also switched from the CCV to a catch can setup with positive results. Both CarbonZHP and slater have it.

CarbonZHP is soon to be local to me. I'll have to hit him up. Catch can would be nice because eventually I'll be auto Xing and going to the track a few times a year

[GotZHP]

Can anyone recommend a CCV replacement kit?

Ordering CCV stuff and Vanos stuff this week so I can bust it out this weekend:thumbsup

[Vas]

Check out tischer bmw. They have a kit.

[GotZHP]

Check out tischer bmw. They have a kit.

Thanks Vas. I'll check them out. Missing my ZHP a lot this week. Not that the Fiesta ST isn't fun to drive but its noisier and bumpier. Also, its molten lava orange so yeah

[GotZHP]

Wow, what a crazy first week of work.

So basically the facility I am working in creates forged internals for jet engines and other aerospace applications. We have a 15,000 TON press that turns titanium billets 2 ft tall, 10in wide into pancakes. Needless to say, love my new job, just so busy already.

Still driving the Fiesta ST :( Ordering parts for the ZHP TONIGHT!

Drove it some this past weekend and it stalled a few times. Need to get this vac leak taken care of. Parts this week, work next week.

[GotZHP]

SO car related update. Ordered this kit:

http://www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?part=11%2061%207%20533%20KIT&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=11617533KIT-330I-2004-290478&gclid=CI_eisGPsMsCFQeTfgodWE4GJA

Anyone in Socal want to leand a hand or some tools? Will be working on it not this week but the next.

[zYx]

I removed my engine covers to better hear the vac leak. Marked the picture as to where the noise seems to be generating. Definitely towards the back of the motor.

EDIT: Arrow should be a little bit more to the left, Noise seems to be coming from there
There are three rubber caps there on intake manifold that often rot and disintegrate. You can see them with mirror or feel them using hands.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=512059&d=1371741029

[johnrando]

Cool job

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[GotZHP]

There are three rubber caps there on intake manifold that often rot and disintegrate. You can see them with mirror or feel them using hands.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=512059&d=1371741029

Thanks. So those rubber caps are on the back of the intake manifold, huh.

If I had to replace them, would I need to pull the intake manifold or can it stay on.

[GotZHP]

Cool job

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

The job is very cool but I am going to become so busy in a months time. I am working as the Environmental, Health, and Safety Specialist. Pay is pretty good, so in a month or two, I am buying myself an exhaust and angel eyes... If my maintenance is done, but this is good motivation.

[zYx]

Thanks. So those rubber caps are on the back of the intake manifold, huh.

If I had to replace them, would I need to pull the intake manifold or can it stay on.
It can stay on. You need to do it blind, but it is not a big problem.
Also there are few vacuum hoses there and some non-return valve that can be the culprit for your leak.
Edit: Remove the part of firewall (cabin filter housing) to gain more room.

[GotZHP]

It can stay on. You need to do it blind, but it is not a big problem.
Also there are few vacuum hoses there and some non-return valve that can be the culprit for your leak.
Edit: Remove the part of firewall (cabin filter housing) to gain more room.

Is that non-return line valve called the oil separator valve? If so the kit I bought has it in it. I just need to buy the 3 plugs. I bet they are not real expensive and hopefully the part #s are on realoem

[zYx]

http://www.etk.cc/bmw/EN/search/selectCar/E46/Lim/BMW+330i/ECE/11/11_2203/

Non return valve is item nr. 6.

The diagram is for EU 330i and should be the same for ZHP, but do check before and if you order it.

[GotZHP]

http://www.etk.cc/bmw/EN/search/selectCar/E46/Lim/BMW+330i/ECE/11/11_2203/

Non return valve is item nr. 6.

The diagram is for EU 330i and should be the same for ZHP, but do check before and if you order it.

I checked RealOEM.com and coudln't find that diagram. Maybe i missed or maybe because of emissions regulations, the US got a different set up?

Anyways, back with my baby. Just took it for a spin. Hit 90mphs pretty smoothly. Engine is running so much better with the new intake components and DISA valve. Waiting for my parts to show up is all

[GotZHP]

Also, got rear ended yesterday... in the Fiesta ST at least. Which already had a ruined rear bumper, so getting it fixed under insurance claim.

Luckily, it was a relatively slow speed hit but still, feeling sore today.

3rd time I have been rear ended in Cali. Once was in an automated car wash.....

[johnrando]

Ouch

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[BMWCurves]

Glad to hear you're enjoying your reunion with your car.


Also, got rear ended yesterday... in the Fiesta ST at least. Which already had a ruined rear bumper, so getting it fixed under insurance claim.

Luckily, it was a relatively slow speed hit but still, feeling sore today.

3rd time I have been rear ended in Cali. Once was in an automated car wash.....

Damn, hope the pain doesn't linger. I've only been rear ended once and it was when I had my learner's permit. My father was in the passenger seat and I was at a stop sign by my house on a hill. I could see this woman coming up on me too fast in a Volvo and not looking forward. I tried to pull away but wasn't fast enough and she ran into my rear end.

My father's first response was "what did you do?"

[zYx]

I checked RealOEM.com and coudln't find that diagram. Maybe i missed or maybe because of emissions regulations, the US got a different set up?

Anyways, back with my baby. Just took it for a spin. Hit 90mphs pretty smoothly. Engine is running so much better with the new intake components and DISA valve. Waiting for my parts to show up is all
It is in engine/vacuum control.
Again this is not zhp diagram just regular 330i, I cannot select it as you know, but now you know where to look if part differ:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=EV53-USA-11-2004-E46-BMW-330i&diagId=11_2203

Edit: And apparently you do not have that valve and all of other parts from that diagram.

Edit 2: It's strange that 325 has that diagram, but 330 not, both being US models and in EU both have that vacuum control. Never mind, one less thing to worry about.

[GotZHP]

It is in engine/vacuum control.
Again this is not zhp diagram just regular 330i, I cannot select it as you know, but now you know where to look if part differ:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=EV53-USA-11-2004-E46-BMW-330i&diagId=11_2203

Edit: And apparently you do not have that valve and all of other parts from that diagram.

Edit 2: It's strange that 325 has that diagram, but 330 not, both being US models and in EU both have that vacuum control. Never mind, one less thing to worry about.

Haha thanks for digging up part numbers anyways. The kit I ordered has some sort of valve in it, and several hoses, so vacuum leak should be sorted out after this week. Hoping to have time to replace the oil filter housing gasket as well. It is barely leaking, but I want to tackle it before it gets worse.

[GotZHP]

Glad to hear you're enjoying your reunion with your car.



Damn, hope the pain doesn't linger. I've only been rear ended once and it was when I had my learner's permit. My father was in the passenger seat and I was at a stop sign by my house on a hill. I could see this woman coming up on me too fast in a Volvo and not looking forward. I tried to pull away but wasn't fast enough and she ran into my rear end.

My father's first response was "what did you do?"

Very similar to what happened to me. Stop and go traffic. I came to a stop and could see the woman behind me looking out to her left. I knew she could not stop in time so I dumped the car into neutral, and lightened up on the brake just a little while bracing myself. She was maybe going 10 at most.

In my BRZ, similar situation happened, but traffic went from 45 to zero, and the small truck behind me hit me going 35 while I was standstill. That one hurt. Since then, every time Ive been hit, the same spot hurts pretty bad for a few days.

[GotZHP]

Ouch

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Yeah saw it coming though so at least I was ready for impact

[GotZHP]

OK will have some updates tomorrow. Some good some bad. Meantime which plates should I get. Def want the black and yellow style

[GotZHP]

Picked up a few goodies yesterday. On my drive home, the SES light came on. I stopped by autozone to see if they would read the code, but they no longer provide that service. They had a cheapo code scanner on sale, and the guy let me use some rewards points I had from buyer supplies for the GFs car. I know this scanner is not the greatest, but it works. Car threw two codes, both related to O2 sensors. Believe this is from my vacuum leak. Also, Oil Filter Housing Gasket arrived.

Hunting down vacuum leak today. Is separation of the manifold from the engine block a common problem? The sound of the vacuum leak is hard to pin down, but so far it doesn't seem to be any vacuum or CCV hose I can see. Taking the HVAC filter and support tray/rain catch thingy out today to see if I can find the leak out back.

[BMWCurves]

Let us know what you end up doing to address those codes.

[GotZHP]

Let us know what you end up doing to address those codes.

Will do. I got 2 other codes awhile back relating to post cat O2 Sensors. I'm hoping it is all related to my vacuum leak. The car passed smog a few months back, so the cats are in working condition

[GotZHP]

Time to play Doctor. Now I just need a sexy nurse...:begging:p

[GotZHP]

SO intake manifold is coming out today. May not be going back in til next weekend.

So far, eliminated the lower CCV hose that connects to the dipstick as the source of my vacuum leak.However, after removing many parts, I notice there is a lot of oil on the engine around the Oil Air separator. There was also a big chunk of plastic just sitting there, so something is obviously broken.

[GotZHP]

Intake manifold is ready to come off. Fuel rail is unclipped and the manifold is loosened. Need a can of compressed air to blow crude away from ports before I take it off.

Will have some photos up when I take a lunch break. But for now, off to the hardware store.

[Vas]

Good luck.

[GotZHP]

Damn, so manifolds off. I believe my oil air separator was not functioning properly. None of the other hoses seems to be the problem, all seemed ok. One of the nipples on the back of the manifold is old and cracked a bunch, so that was another vacuum leak.

Under the manifold, there is a lot of oil on the block, and when I pulled the manifold off, there was oil all around the gaskets, inside towards the ports, and outside towards open air. I believe my CCV was not venting properly, and the seal between manifold and engine block was compromised.

Will have pictures up once my phone is charged.

Most likely wont have the car back together this weekend :(

[GotZHP]

Sorry for the bad cellphone quality photos. Once my iphone 6 is charged ill take some more photos, since its camera is far better than my samsung phone.

So i removed the intake manifold today, and found oil all around the gaskets. There was oil on both sides of the gaskets, both towards the ports and towards the open air. Here a re a few photos. Im pretty sure its not suppose to have oil there. There is also a large oil stain on the block below the oil air separator, so I believe that was not working as well.

[BMWCurves]

You weren't kidding.

Hope you getting it cleaned and buttoned up soon.

[GotZHP]

You weren't kidding.

Hope you getting it cleaned and buttoned up soon.

Project is on hold til next weekend for now. unfortunately another week without the ZHP. Im hoping this massive vacuum leak is accounting for my power loss and that I won't have to do vanos seals.. but we will see.

Thanks BMWcurves. Did you see I found an answer to those ports?

[BMWCurves]

Project is on hold til next weekend for now. unfortunately another week without the ZHP. Im hoping this massive vacuum leak is accounting for my power loss and that I won't have to do vanos seals.. but we will see.

Thanks BMWcurves. Did you see I found an answer to those ports?

Yup, interesting. It's just another layer of BMW's over-engineering (except when it's not, like plastic inlets on the radiator :facepalm)

[GotZHP]

Yup, interesting. It's just another layer of BMW's over-engineering (except when it's not, like plastic inlets on the radiator :facepalm)

Dude BMW loves plastic.. So many plastic parts on this car.

I broke my F-connector by accident since it was old and brittle. Survived during the new DISA and lower intake boot but not this time around

[ELCID86]

Dude BMW loves plastic.. So many plastic parts on this car.

I broke my F-connector by accident since it was old and brittle. Survived during the new DISA and lower intake boot but not this time around

Sucks. I was told to never mess with that F connect unless you have a spare on hand. Hope others will read and heed.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - anonymous

[GotZHP]

Sucks. I was told to never mess with that F connect unless you have a spare on hand. Hope others will read and heed.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - anonymous

Yes, def keep one on hand. If you plan on replacing lower intake boot, cleaning ICV, rebuilding DISA, anything that would require you to remove it, buy one ahead of time ESPECIALLY if you plan on doing your work over the weekend. BMW list price is over $8 dollars, but they can be had online for $2-$4. I bought one at a BMW dealership for $4.xx, and I bought my entire CCV kit from the dealer here in Irvine, but did not pay list price

[GotZHP]

New CCV Parts.

Work continues tomorrow. Going to buy oil and prep the engine for the intake manifold to be remounted on the block. I covered all open holes but realized I never put anything over the vent on the hood. I am hoping that condensation didnt drip into anything. Buying oil and going to do an oil change before I fired it up again. Its been apart for a week and just sitting in the parking lot.

New Intake manifold gaskets, all new CCV, New F connector. Cant wait to drive it without a vacuum leak. I am expecting a noticeable difference in performance and driveability, but have a feeling the Vanos seals will need to be addressed pretty quickly here for full enjoyment.

Will have a large amount of photos coming on Sunday, so look for some updates

[johnrando]

:thumbsup

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[GotZHP]

Thanks John! This car as been a journey, but honestly I like it that way. I've learned a lot about the engine already and have improved my skills and technique as an amateur mechanic

[ZacharyMikel]

In to see how "easy" your install is... I have a leaky tube that will need addressed at some point.

[GotZHP]

In to see how "easy" your install is... I have a leaky tube that will need addressed at some point.

Re install of the intake manifold wasnt as hard as I thought it was going to be. Just a lot of steps to keep in order so you dont get hoses and electrical cords crossed over in the back and so you dont forget the little things. Everything goes back in place really easy and the lay out makes sense. Dont forget to re clip things under the manifold before bolting it down again Took about 3-4 hours to do. Inlcuding a trip to the parts store and call to my buddy. His e36 M3 spontaneously caught fire while he was grocery shopping.

I didnt take that many photos today, just wanted to get it done. Ill have a big update post or two tmrw including most of the tear down

[Vas]

Keep at it and she will be up and running soon

[GotZHP]

Happy to report

MY CAR IS FINALLY RUNNING GREAT!

Sorry for the lack of major updates as promised, been so damn busy with work. My Bosses Boss is in town, and he is on East Coast time so Ive been working 6am to 6pm everyday.

Going to Euro Wednesdays Tonight in Irvine if anyone else plans on heading out, ill be there. My car needs a bath though :/

I'll have an update tomorrow with some photos and a review of removing the intake manifold. The job wasn't that hard to be honest. And IMO removing the intake manifold is harder than installing it. Once you've had the manifold off, and get a 360 degree of the unit, everything makes sense when putting it back on.

Also, already got parts rolling in for the next step of the maintenance puzzle. After that, putting a deposit down on a room in Irvine so I can be close to work.

Once that is done, I am going to do something to the car that is not maintenance....... MMMMmmmmmmm Mods

On a budget still, and Ive been really liking the Vibrant muffler w/ resonator delete that a few members here have. I may join that club as I can do the work myself with tools and a welder from work, so really the expense is the muffler.

Or a bluetooth adapter. This is much more practical and sensible, butttt that exhaust note.

Don't know what else is out there for a few hundred dollar modification, but im open to ideas. Also, getting some Michelin PSS for the Fiesta ST

[BMWCurves]

Glad you have it rolling again and are out and about enjoying it!

As for some mods, maybe a short shift kit? New steering wheel? Cell phone mount? Tint? I can't remember what you've done so far, and I'm far too lazy to look right now :p

[GotZHP]

Tint is a good call. Black leather seats in Socal sun will get hot. Short shifter is not a bad idea either. I am not a huge fan of the shifter feel. Going to order some Motul or Red Line and swap out the trans fluid and go from there.

A new short shifter with a new alcantara ZHP knob would be very nice. warm and fuzzy feeling

[GotZHP]

So picked up new Idler Pulley, Tensioner Pulley, and two new belts. Good project for tomorrow.

Only update :/ Still owe everyone pictures from the intake manifold removal but work has been so busy.

Internal audit tomorrow, so we will see how that goes

[GotZHP]

Does anyone here have an aftermarket short shifter?

Recently, shifting has become harder and there is almost a noise as a gear is selected. I know I need to adjust my clutch engagement point as I can hear a difference between clutch in / clutch out. There is a little drag happening which needs to be corrected.

I am not super satisfied with the shifter feel in this car, and would like a slightly shorter throw.

My first step is to swap out the 105k mile old transmission fluid for some redline or motul. A new shifter bushing was recommended.

Was wondering if I should bother with the shifter bushing, or just go aftermarket. I'll search the site some but figured I'd asked.

[BMWCurves]

Are shifter bushings expensive? I have the UUC Evo3 kit. I wasn't super happy with their customer service (sent me the wrong parts and had to fight them about it). That aside, I enjoy the kit very much. Pretty expensive though.

[GotZHP]

Are shifter bushings expensive? I have the UUC Evo3 kit. I wasn't super happy with their customer service (sent me the wrong parts and had to fight them about it). That aside, I enjoy the kit very much. Pretty expensive though.

Did you get the other part they provide for shifting? DSSR or something like that. Way too tired to remember acronyms for cars after using safety related ones at work all day.

Asides from the customer service, what are your impressions?

[GotZHP]

Rolled past 106,000 Miles!!!! Running the best it has since I bought it about 2 months ago!

Recap of maintenance thus far:

-New windshield washer fluid sprayer
-New windshield wipers and fluid
- New lower intake boot
-New air filter
- New F-connector
-New DISA valve
- Cleaned ICV valve
-New vacuum lines
- New intake manifold gaskets
-Cleaned intake manifold
- Cleaned injectors
- Oil Change
-Two new belts
- New idler pulley
-New tensioner pulley (tmrw)

This weekend I am going to put a spreadsheet together with part numbers and costs. This is something I have always done for my previous cars. I also include mileage at time of maintenance / mod. This goes a long way when it comes to tracking cost of ownership and due dates for continued maintenance. I am also going to round up all my photos and post them!!!! Should have some exciting stuff from the intake manifold to share. If I have some additional time, I'll start writing some DIYs so I can contribute to this community. Stay tuned! Happy almost Friday everyone

[BMWCurves]

Did you get the other part they provide for shifting? DSSR or something like that. Way too tired to remember acronyms for cars after using safety related ones at work all day.

Asides from the customer service, what are your impressions?

I really like it. And yes, I did get the DSSR (double shear selector rod). The throws are nice. Notchier than before, but I like the feel.

[GotZHP]

Well, oil level low ish and just did an oil change. Think the oil filter housing gasket is getting worse. Actually have hit a few red lines now that the ZHP is running good. Leaky gasket no like redlines.

Have the new gasket and spare oil so just need the time. Hopefully Tuesday after work.

[GotZHP]

Damn, hot day to be working on the car but need to swap out the OFHG. Once done ill come inside and cool off and upload some photos. Need to clear them off my phone, taking up all the space

[GotZHP]

Wow its been awhile. Have been really wrapped up in work as the Board of Directors had a plant tour schedule for today. Tour went extremely well and all the long days payed off. The CEO was impressed and came to thank me personally, which was a moment. I take pride in my work and was glad it was recognized by the Higher Ups.

Anyways, now I can have a personal life again. Car maintenance has been on hold the last three weeks. Plans for this weekend include massive updates here and on e46f. I have some good photos and a write up for when I did the intake manifold.

Also, I have a water pump thats been on my desk for 2 weeks now and it needs to be installed ASAP. My current pump is starting to fail and is seeping coolant on to the belt, which is throwing it throughout the engine bay. I spotted a bunch of dried white spots on the airbox and sure enough, there was a stalactite growing off the bottom of the pump. It is going to be installed this weekend and I will do a step by step write up with photos.

Also, a few weeks back I swapped out my oil filter housing gasket. Have some photos for that as well. Getting quiet familiar with the front half of the engine.

[BMWCurves]

Re: work, congrats! It's always nice to feel appreciated.

Re: water pump. Yuck, but at least it's a pretty quick and easy job.

[GotZHP]

Ive watched a few videos and it seems pretty simple indeed. One thing I am worried about is my hydraulic tensioner, or atleast the rubber boot part. I took the old belts off and put a new pulley on. Then a week later replaced another pulley, and noticed there was some slight cracking in the rubber. Need to remove th belts for a 3rd time this weekend so hopefully it holds up.

The other not so good thing is I found out my plastic under tray is zip tided into place and the other plastic parts under the car look like theyve been driven through gravel for miles on end.

Did buy a big new catch pan for the coolant though, so yay to new shop equipment

[GotZHP]

Cleaned the car this past weekend. Beautiful Socal day spent outside cleaning off a months worth of road grim and dust. The roads to and from my work are all under construction,new pipeline being put in. Also, I have learned why no one parks at the far end of the parking lot and thats because the trash truck comes, and when it dumps the hopper, saw dust goes everywhere. Also, the landscapers will no longer be using leaf blowers on our property because I lost my cool with one of the guys and yelled at the supervisor nono

Still being in a drought, I rarely wash my car, but figured it was time. Had access to a pressure washer so sprayed it down and used a Wash & Wax in one to minimize water usage. Not too bad id say :)

[GotZHP]

Picked up a spare tensioner pulley yesterday. If any socal members need one, I got an extra on hand.


Recommend a good tint shop and it's yours. Dayum black leather gets hottt

[GotZHP]

Water pump with new hardware installed yesterday. I ended up doing a full coolant flush as well. The fluid that came out was disturbing. It was all brown and had an oily sheen to it. I noticed this while swapping the water pump and ended up flushing the system. Removed all the old fluid and added a new gallon of coolant mixed with distilled water. Being in Socal, my mix was not quite 50/50 but I am not worried about cold weather. I also bled the system properly and now my heat works! Its never that cold here, but I am up at 4 AM to drive to work some days and it is chilly.

I am dumping all the photos from yesterday on to my other laptop and will resize, name, and upload soon. In the mean time, this is something I have started to work on. There is a lot of data to be put in as well, but its coming together. I made an excel sheet to track all of my purchases, including tools, and the days & mileage the new parts were installed. Helps to organize continued preventative maintenance, and is also keeping my costs of ownership in perspective.

If anyone wants this excel sheet, I am happy to share. There are three pages, One for parts, one for tools, and the 3rd is used just to pile all the information together.

I'll have some photos and more updates this afternoon!

[Vas]

Very cool

[GotZHP]

Very cool

Thanks Vas. I've always done something like this in the past for all my cars. I am always surprised at what the total $$$$ end up to be.

[Vas]

I do something similar but with no pricing. Don't want a reminder lol

[derbo]

Very nice spreadsheet! :D

I made one for my car too but probably not as detailed as yours. I did hide the costs in there but it is present.. I color coded and separated the maintenance, services, parts for breakdown for costs.

http://i.imgur.com/bXGZRjqh.png

[johnrando]

Awesome. Grt ss too.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

[GotZHP]

Very nice spreadsheet! :D

I made one for my car too but probably not as detailed as yours. I did hide the costs in there but it is present.. I color coded and separated the maintenance, services, parts for breakdown for costs.

http://i.imgur.com/bXGZRjqh.png

I'll eventually add a color scheme to mine to separate maintenance (few categories), detailing, tools, mods, suspension, etc. I'm still on a tight budget so showing the cost is needed for me as a reminder. Otherwise, I would have bought a few mods by now, and wouldn't have money on deck if something goes wrong.

[derbo]

I'll eventually add a color scheme to mine to separate maintenance (few categories), detailing, tools, mods, suspension, etc. I'm still on a tight budget so showing the cost is needed for me as a reminder. Otherwise, I would have bought a few mods by now, and wouldn't have money on deck if something goes wrong.

The worse part is when the money factor doesn't even phase you even when it's ok the spreadsheet.

I have a date vs mileage trend chart on the bottom too.

[GotZHP]

Sneak preview of what is to come. Still resizing photos and naming them.

This is why i decided to do a whole coolant flush!!!!! BMW coolant is suppose to be tinted blue! not brown and oily.nono

This is what came out f the expansion tank!

[TigerTater]

Lol. Thts ridiculous.

[GotZHP]

Lol. Thts ridiculous.

Yeah dude. Absolutely disgusting. Going to swap out transmission fluid and brake fluid soon as well. I am sure their state will be just as dismal.

[GotZHP]

Ok, so old news first. Replaced the intake manifold gasket a month ago or so. I took a lot of photos, but most of them came out pretty poor. Was using my cellphone camera in full sun, with a partial shadow from the hood of the car. Not good conditions for a less than camera. Here a few that came out well (enough).



Pictured is the old oil / air separator and a rather large and obvious oil spot on the side of the block right below the unit. It was too high and too far over to be the oil filter housing gasket. At the time of this work, the OFHG had a very very minor leak coming from the lower right corner of the unit.

Also pictured is a random piece of plastic found covered in oil and grim on the block nestled in a nook. Removing the dipstick is part of the process, and I found a huge piece of debris lodged in the base of mine :/ I've since done the OFHG and an oil change.

[GotZHP]

Few other photos from replacing the manifold gasket and CCV. I was planning on doing a DIY with a lot of photos, but since most of them came out poorly, I will most likely just do a detailed step by step write up.

Pictured here is removing the spark plug wires, removing O2 sensors, bleeding the fuel rail pressure, and then removing the fuel rail.

The fuel rail was the most intimidating part of this job. I have never messed around with any part fuel related before on any of my vehicles, so I was a bit nervous. The rail detaches from the injectors quiet easily, however, I could not get the rail detached from the fuel line. It has a weird connection that is in a very tight spot, which is blind for the most part. I just set it aside and had a decent amount of room to work around it.

It did get in the way a little when putting the manifold back in place, but all in all, it is not necessary to remove the rail completely. I pictured the Schrader valve as well. There was practically no pressure when I went to bleed it, but be ready for a fair amount of fuel to dump out of the rail when you pull it from the injectors. It was way more than I anticipated. Makes sure you have great ventilation and no source of ignition at this step.

[GotZHP]

Few more photos for your viewing pleasure :)

Picture of the fuel rail off to the side and the manifold coming off. I had an extra set of hands at this moment which was great. The intake manifold is kind of bulky and can get snagged easily. There is also a hose connected to the bottom, which has a crimp clamp holding it in place. My friend held the manifold up for me while I cut the hose. I replaced all of my vacuum lines while doing this, and had already replaced the F-connector. I highly recommend replacing as many parts as possible when it comes to air intake and vacuum while doing this. It makes uninstall easier because you can just cut the hoses free. Get some vacuum line on hand and as you remove a line, cut a new one.

I was able to obtain some vacuum hose in 3 different sizes for free from my local autopart store. I asked if they had any scraps, which they did. Vacuum line is dirt cheap, but I save 5-10 bucks which is cool.

I also ended up breaking out the old CCV components. The plastic will most likely be very brittle and will probably break anyways, so save yourself some time, and just break them as you go along. Be careful not to break anything on the manifold, excessive force is not needed to get the old CCV parts to break.

Also pictured, A LOT of oil in and around the ports!!! The small ports is where the Idle Control Valve feeds air into the block. My car had extremely poor idle and oil in the ICV ports was a big contributor.

IMO, it is well worth the time to remove the intake manifold to replace the CCV. It gives you an opportunity to inspect the condition of many items along the way (Vacuum lines, Injectors, O2 sensors, wires, etc.) and it is a good opportunity to clean the block up some if your oil leak make it a mess.

[GotZHP]

Last photo is of the block with the manifold removed. The only other part of the job that I was worried about was all the electrical connectors! There are more than a handful to disconnect and reconnect. They are all keyed however, and only one or two could possible get mixed up. There is one connection down low behind the intake manifold, don't forget to reconnect it! Also helps to have an extra set of hands at this part.


Cleaned the block up fairly well at this time, only to have it get covered in oil from my worsening OFHG.

It took a solid two days to do this job while taking photos and dealing with other life things. Could be done in a day if started early enough. I ended up starting on a Sunday, not being able to finish, borrowing my GFs car for the work week, and finished the following Saturday. It may seem like a challenging maintenance task, but it was easy enough for me to read my notes and reinstall a week later with no hitches.

Ill do a detailed write up to share with everyone, but in the meantime feel free to PM me or post here if you have questions or plan on tackling this yourself!!

[GotZHP]

Pretty disappointed with the phone photos recently :/ Time for a new one. I have an iPhone 6 + through work which I used for replacing the water pump and the photos are much nicer.

Anyways, more old news. Few photos from replacing the Oil Filter Housing Gasket. Was a pretty easy job, just took a lot of work to get to the gasket. YOu need to disconnect the battery, remove fan & shroud, remove air intake components, remove alternator, and a few more steps. I bought a second gasket to have just in case something went wrong with the re-install, but it went fairly smooth. Got really sun burnt working on the car this weekend. I also replaced the tensioner pulley while I was in there. It is a good time to replace pulleys and belts while you are replacing the filter. I knew i had a pulley with a spent bearing, and was fairly certain it was the tensioner, but I was wrong. It was the deflection pulley, so that was swapped as well.

Man, I need a work space or garage and not a parking lot to do all this maintenance.

A few photos that actually came out ok. Remember to draw or photo graph yours belts before removing!

[TigerTater]

I'm sure the other people will love the oil all over everything lol

[johnrando]

Nice werk.

[GotZHP]

Nice werk.


Yeah I've been busy. Going to be out of things to do by the time we ever get a meet up day. Took this weekend off from car things

[GotZHP]

I'm sure the other people will love the oil all over everything lol

Im actually pretty good about not getting oil every where. Part of my job is to be an environmentalist, so I try and carry my practice over into my personal life.
Cardboard, lots of cardboard. One neighbor bought a 60" flat screen and the other bought a crib for their soon to be baby. Slide the cardboard under the car. Gives a smooth surface to slide along and also catches all the oil drips :thumbsup

Only time oil got on the parking lot was when I was teaching my GF how to change her own oil and filter. She took the filter out and flipped it over :facepalm

[GotZHP]

Quick write up for the water pump replacement. Really easy job to do and does not take that long to complete, even with a full coolant flush. I didn't even put the car on jack stands. I just my jack at the factory jacking point on the passenger side, and raised it till the rear tire was about to lift. I then chalk the jack so it would not move, and bean work.

Step 1.) Safe off car. Put in gear, pull e-brake, chock tires.

Step 2.) Pop hood and photograph your Belts. This will help the belts go back on properly. Also, loosen water pump pulley bolts!

Step 3.) Remove belts. I used a small metal pry bar to push down on the hydraulic tensioner to remove the main belt. AC belt was removed by using a socket on the tensioner pulley. (14mm or 16mm, I forget)

Step 4.) Jack car. I chose to do it from the passenger side thinking that a little slope towards 2 of the drain plugs would help drainage.

Step 5.) Remove plastic under tray. Should be T25 torx screws. Mine was zip tied in place, yayyy :facepalm My car may have been in a minor fender bender im thinking. THe entire front end plastic parts are out of alignment and zip tied together :/

Step 6.) Slide cardboard and catch pan under the car.

Step 7.) OPEN EXPANSION TANK CAP!!! I forgot to do this, and luckily my car had been sitting for a long time so there was minimal pressure build up.

Step 8.) Remove water pump pulley. believe they are 10mm bolts, 4 in total. These came out easily for me.

Step 9.) Remove 4 nuts holding the water pump in place. Again, I believe these to be 4, 10mm nuts.

Step 10.) Remove water pump by threading a bolt on both sides, in the middle slot. There will be three slots total per side. Top and bottom will have studs from the block passing through them to the nuts. The middle two will be threaded. Get a slightly longer bolt than the water pump pulley bolt, and thread it in! Water pump backs right out. Be ready for fluids!!! Have safety glasses on as a precaution.

So if you are not doing a full coolant flush, then reverse step 10 backwards. I decided to flush my coolant because it was brown and oily.

Step 11.) Go under car and open drain plugs
11a.) Two plastic plugs towards driver side of the radiator
11b.) one metal plug on the engine block towards the passenger side.

Once fluid is drained, put plugs back in. DO NOT over tighten the plastic plugs as they will break or strip out!

Step 12.) Install water pump. I chose to use new hardware but reused the water pump pulley. Just needed some serious cleaning.

Step 13.) Mix coolant and water. I am in California and my ratio ended up being closer to 60/40 water to coolant, but I am not worried about low temps.

Step 14.) Turn key to position 2 and turn the heat all the way with fan on low.

Step 15.) Open bleed screw. There is a small black plastic screw right behind the expansion tank screw. Open this up!

Step 15.) Pour coolant mixture into expansion tank. Running the heat and the fan will cause the loop to the heater core to open, and coolant will be drain in. IF YOUR RADIATOR light comes on while trying to run the heat, or you have no heat, this will fix that problem!. Fill coolant with fan running until the expansion tank is full and no more bubbles are escaping out of the bleed hole.

Step 16.) Remove a small amount of coolant mixture. The plunger bob thingy will be maxed out during the fill process, now is the time to get the level dial in. I left mine towards the end of high, at this point.

Step 17.) Verify work, start the car! I had a lot of anxiety this time around and I don't know why. Leave the expansion cap loose while starting the car. Once the car is started, take the cap off, and you should see a steady stream of coolant mixture flowing back into the expansion tank.

Anyways, kind of a quick write without too much specifics. I plan on doing a thorough DIY since I actually got a few decent pictures this time around. Pics in next posting.

Step 16.)

[GotZHP]

Very simple tools required for this job. I chose to use new hardware, but reused the water pump pulley. The pulley is plastic, so be careful working around it. Mine was in good shape, just needed a cleaning.

[GotZHP]

The old water pump. Look at that stalactite!! One of the common failures with these water pumps, is the weep hole. That is were mine failed. Coolant will slowly leak out and it may be hard to spot at first. Look for white splatter spots near the air box.

[GotZHP]

Old coolant had to go. Pictured are the two plastic drain plugs, both open and draining away.

Took some effort to clean out the water pump pulley and my god, was there a lot of crude built up. Significant increase in the rotational mass

Lastly, new shiny water pump in place! I have some more photos that'll end up in the write up.

Only thing I should have done at this point was my expansion tank. It is the original and needs to be replaced and should have been once all the coolant was out.

I will get to it eventually and will double check my coolant when I get to it. If its dark and oily again, I know I have a much larger problem. For now, the ZHP is running the best it has in years! Enjoy!

[BMWCurves]

Yuck! That's some seriously gross stuff, glad you got around to getting it replaced.

Your spreadsheet reminds me (looks good btw), I need to really update my maintenance spreadsheet to be more detailed than it currently is. I shudder to think at how much I've spent so far...

[ELCID86]

Nice work!
WRT the belt diagram in an earlier thread. I keep this in DropBox and on my phone.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160522/7cc23d971dce6982a47f4f3d1d23e988.jpg

[GotZHP]

Yuck! That's some seriously gross stuff, glad you got around to getting it replaced.

Your spreadsheet reminds me (looks good btw), I need to really update my maintenance spreadsheet to be more detailed than it currently is. I shudder to think at how much I've spent so far...

I just finalized putting in all of the $$$ and I am shuddering a bit already. I figure I am catching up on 2-3 years of neglect plus items that should be serviced at or after 100,000 miles. Just wish I could have spent all this money on mods :)

[GotZHP]

Nice work!
WRT the belt diagram in an earlier thread. I keep this in DropBox and on my phone.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160522/7cc23d971dce6982a47f4f3d1d23e988.jpg

I have a similar one on my phone with a picture as well. Always a good idea to have this diagram before starting work.

[GotZHP]

No work this past weekend. Slept in to 11 or 12 both days which was awesome. Seriously sleep deprived from the past 4 weeks.

Car rolled past 110,000 miles! Starting to get a shimmy at ~85MPH but its not major yet. Putting it on the trouble shoot list.

I am going to update the first post tonight to cover work that has been done, and work that still needs to be done.

ALSO, will be doing some modification next weekend!!!! I am getting an Amp, Subwoofer, and capacitor for free. I am not sure of specs & diemensions, but I have heard the system before and it is plenty of kick to go with the OEM system for now. It is coming from a friend's truck, so I am pretty certain it is one of those low-profile style woofer. Will have some more updates on that later this week!

[fredo]

I just finalized putting in all of the $$$ and I am shuddering a bit already. I figure I am catching up on 2-3 years of neglect plus items that should be serviced at or after 100,000 miles. Just wish I could have spent all this money on mods :)

Not sure if this will help any, but I spent $4,000 in 1 year, 3 months of ownership.

[GotZHP]

Not sure if this will help any, but I spent $4,000 in 1 year, 3 months of ownership.

DAYUM. I hope that includes some fun mods and not just maintenance. I was figuring 1,500 to 2,000 a year for the first couple of years til everything is new again. Then hopefully sub $1,000 for maintenance.

Going to try not to go over board with Mods on this car.... for now...

[BMWCurves]

Not sure if this will help any, but I spent $4,000 in 1 year, 3 months of ownership.

Don't feel bad. I'm confident I've spent even more in the last 14 months of ownership :ninja

[san]

I'm in the same boat, close to $3500 in about a year and a half...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GotZHP]

:blink Need more fundies it seems.

Have another oil leak. Car took almost a full quart yesterday. Need to investigate

[GotZHP]

Well, Looks like a new oil pan gasket is needed.

[san]

Well atleast you found your problem... Any oil residue on the floor?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Vas]

Pretty normal. I will be doing my second one this summer

[slater]

Don't feel bad. I'm confident I've spent even more in the last 14 months of ownership :ninja


I'm in the same boat, close to $3500 in about a year and a half...

yep... sorting a 'new' car can be costly, especially if you're anal.

i've put $7K into my car in the last 26 months. i think $400 of that was labor. :)

[GotZHP]

Pretty normal. I will be doing my second one this summer

Dayum, how long did the first one last? I hate having to do things twice.

[GotZHP]

yep... sorting a 'new' car can be costly, especially if you're anal.

i've put $7K into my car in the last 26 months. i think $400 of that was labor. :)

So far, $0.00 dollars spent on Labor!!!!! Very proud of this :cheers:biggrin

Looking back on what I have done so far, which is quiet a lot, I could have easily spent a few thousand on labor.

Only labor costs will be associated with wheels / tires / alignment. Maybe some with suspension too. Starting to get out of my comfort zone with these items.

[Vas]

Dayum, how long did the first one last? I hate having to do things twice.
Sorry for the confusion.

The first one was on my zhp. The second one will be on my wife's zhp.

[GotZHP]

Well atleast you found your problem... Any oil residue on the floor?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No residue on the floor. Dipstick was reading very low though.

I figured by process of elimination that it was the Oil Pan Gasket. Just replaced OFHG, replaced all of the CCV system, and the Vanos return line wasn't leaking or dripping. Verified by taking the plastic under tray out. And I just got all those stupid screw clippy things and zip tips back in to hold it in place a weekend ago.

[GotZHP]

Sorry for the confusion.

The first one was on my zhp. The second one will be on my wife's zhp.

Oooo fun. Twice the maintenance lol. DO you get Buy one Get one half off deals :rofl

[Vas]

Oooo fun. Twice the maintenance lol. DO you get Buy one Get one half off deals :rofl
I wish

[slater]

So far, $0.00 dollars spent on Labor!!!!! Very proud of this :cheers:biggrin

Looking back on what I have done so far, which is quiet a lot, I could have easily spent a few thousand on labor.

Only labor costs will be associated with wheels / tires / alignment. Maybe some with suspension too. Starting to get out of my comfort zone with these items.

i don't count tire mounting or alignment as labor costs, however welding falls into that category - the $400 i mentioned was having my OEM exhaust system welded back together and some stubborn, rusted downpipe studs removed since i couldn't deal with either of those myself.

yeah, if i paid labor for the work done to my car... dang, it would be around $5K. :)

[ELCID86]

Oooo fun. Twice the maintenance lol. DO you get Buy one Get one half off deals :rofl

Ask him what his mom drives!


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - anonymous

[GotZHP]

Ask him what his mom drives!


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - anonymous

Lol do I want to know :p

Be cool if she had a ZHP too.

[Vas]

Lol do I want to know [emoji14]

Be cool if she had a ZHP too.
That she does. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160526/1ac71b3b3c8e2231379c3e7d96839f8e.jpg

[GotZHP]

Ok, so finally time to have some fun with this car! My GF's brother is just graduated from USC and is going on a two month road trip to Alaska, then to Boston. He has a Tacoma with a Cab and a crazy tent that mounts on top of the Cab so he is set for the trip. Truck was packed to the gills, and was very heavy. To shave some weight and free up some room, he removed his sound system, and left it in my apartment for me!

I am now the owner of a Pioneer Premier ib-Flat 12" subwoofer in box, a 1200 watt Pioneer Premier two channel amplifier, and a 2 Farad SQ Power Cap Capacitor. A pretty sweet setup, and the best part is it was free!

I need to purchase all the wires however. I need get power to the amplifier (most likely trunk), need ground wire, and need all the wires to make the system work and tie in with the business CD player. I have yet to do any research, but will start after this post.

I am no electrical engineer or sound tech by any means, but I know my way around stereo equipment. My Volvo 850R wagon had two 12" square Kickers running 800 watts each. I built the boxes, amp & capacitor mount, and did all the wiring myself. I've installed several systems for friends, and have worked the sound board for a handful of high school / community theatre plays & shows.

Goal for now s to tie the system in with the stock head unit. I am still on a budget, and there are still maintenance tasks to complete. Future plans include a new head unit. Undecided at the moment and open to ideas. Would be cool to hav the nexus & tablet as a head unit, but have not researched this enough, and may be to costly.

[BMWCurves]

Nice pickup! I know next to nothing about our stereos, but I vaguely remember people with any intention of upgrading the stereo can't do a whole lot with the stock head unit and go for a different head unit. I could be wrong though.

[GotZHP]

Nice pickup! I know next to nothing about our stereos, but I vaguely remember people with any intention of upgrading the stereo can't do a whole lot with the stock head unit and go for a different head unit. I could be wrong though.

Looks like there is a round about way that requires tapping into a wiring harness in the trunk and buying a special adapter. Really poor quality video on youtube with a fat redneck guy drinking beer. He does install a stereo, but the video sucks. If he can do it, I can. I'll make a video if I figure it out so there is a good example out there.

[BMWCurves]

Looks like there is a round about way that requires tapping into a wiring harness in the trunk and buying a special adapter. Really poor quality video on youtube with a fat redneck guy drinking beer. He does install a stereo, but the video sucks. If he can do it, I can. I'll make a video if I figure it out so there is a good example out there.

Bullshitkorner?! Love that guy. And do post info on whatever you end up doing with regards to the stereo.

[GotZHP]

Bullshitkorner?! Love that guy. And do post info on whatever you end up doing with regards to the stereo.

Yeah he is quite the character, but pretty bad at making DIY videos.

I've found enough info to know what im doing, pretty sure anyways. Next step is to get wires and an adapter for the line out. Wont procure these until next weekend most likely. Hate being broke.

[GotZHP]

Well,

Dry fit the sub woofer in the trunk. The box is flat and very wide, but it fits against the back seat. I don't have the ski pass opening, so going to see if I can retro fit the pass through in, or see if I can open it up some other way.

[GotZHP]

Did some test fitting with all the components in my trunk. Came up with a few setup ideas that should work out well. There is a 3rd setup option not shown that would yield the most available trunk space, but it would require reinforcing behind the trunk carpet lining pieces to have a sturdy mount for the amp and capacitor. This would be the ideal setup, but requires most work. Would be the best looking because all the wires will be hidden behind the grey trunk lining. Maybe down the road if I decide to keep the setup in the car. The capacitor would be mounted on the little shelf on the passengers side to the upper right of the sub. The amp would be mounted between the side of the sub and below the capacitor. Would need very little wire as everything would be very compact.

If I didn't need my trunk space, I came up with a "show" setup. All the items would be visible and laid out in the trunk. Id drill holes in the trunk floor liner, so the wires would be tucked. This would be a cool setup, but I need my trunk.

The setup ill be doing for now, will have the amp and capacitor mounted close to the seat back. The subwoofer would be mounted face the trunk lid. The way the trunk is designed, the sub will wedge in place at the bottom, and Ill use some simple L brackets to attach the sub to the car.

Procurement & Install next weekend hopefully. Few pictures of the setup ideas in the mean time. If anyone has comments or suggestions please feel free to shout out. Have a whole week to brainstorm. Will post some dimensions later.

[BMWCurves]

Sweet. Maybe consider a quick removal setup, like this guy (jump to 3 mins 20 secs):


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=naHs__4VMlw

[GotZHP]

I had that with my volvo. I had two subs with an amp in between and a capacitor mount. They were all attached to a piece of MDF that I had stapled carpet on. Whole thing would slide right out. I most likely wont be taking it out that often at the moment. Just need half the trunk for now. Hardly ever have more than myself a backpack and a tool set in the car.

That dude has a nice Bimmer. Ive been going spool crazy with the Fiesta ST lately.

[ELCID86]

Sweet. Maybe consider a quick removal setup, like this guy (jump to 3 mins 20 secs):


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=naHs__4VMlw

That's really nice. He needs to mass produce those (or at least give us a parts list and diy!).

[GotZHP]

That's really nice. He needs to mass produce those (or at least give us a parts list and diy!).

Yes please. once i secure a second vehicle id love to boost the ZHP. I love NA motors,but when they are higher revving. My BRZ was tuned to spin to 8,000rpm in the first 3 gears. Raising the rev limit allowed me to hit 60mph before shifting to 3rd gear. Drastic reduction in 0 to 60 time with out a 2nd shifting point. Love the FA-20 engine in that car. Such a rev whore.

Thinking once the ZHP hits 200,000 miles i'll pick up a dirt cheap lease on a normal person car, think regular Fiesta or corolla, and the ZHP will be retired to Weekend Warrior Status. Most likely will never strip the interior, but it will be close to a race car :)

[GotZHP]

Going to pick up an Aux input retro fit kit this week to go with the new stereo install. I am hoping to borrow a GoPro from a coworker so I can create an installation video for the Capacitor, Amp, and sub. Should be helpful for others wishing to add some bass to their trunks.

Going to order from ECS Tuning. Will be my first purchase from them so hopefully shipping is quick.
https://www.ecstuning.com/ES194845/?gclid=CPCcs7jz_cwCFYZefgodkgMClg


Also need a speaker line out to RCA converter. Found one on Crutchfield.com that will hopefully work. Need to research compatibility, but it should be good to go. I like this model because it has a a remote level control knob. It also has a built in remote wire to turn the amp on and off with the head unit. 3 for one with this unit then. Mixed review on the level control knob, but its from Crutchfield, so returns should be easy. The amp came with a control knob, but it is still installed in the PO's truck.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142LOC90/Scosche-LOC90-Speaker-to-RCA-Line-Output-Converter.html

I highly recommend Crutchfield for any car related electronics purchase. They have great customer service, pretty good prices, and great deals every now-and-then. I got a buy one get one free deal on the Kicker Subwoofers that went into my Volvo. A $250 for free!

All in, should be about $100 dollars of wiring to have the system installed and the Aux port installed. Not bad for a major upgrade.

[Ssparrow]

Good stuff! Definitely keep us updated with a video of the install process. Would be much appreciated!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GotZHP]

Good stuff! Definitely keep us updated with a video of the install process. Would be much appreciated!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will. Seems fairly easy actually. Use the line out converter to tap speaker signal and remote for amp. Wiring is easy. Wire Pos+ to capacitor, then to amp. Both get chassis grounds. The RCA converter will tap into 5 wires at the harness on the stock H/K system. Then 3 wires will go from the RCA converter to the Amp.

Drew out a diagram and I think I got all the details right. This is just a rough draft and I will have a nicer one on graph paper with actual measurements and wire lengths. This is the diagram so far. Hopefully it makes sense to others.

This install will be for those who have the factory install Harman / Kardon system.

[ELCID86]

Nice research and planning. (Good luck with ECS, they have never been quick on shipping imo.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - anonymous

[GotZHP]

Nice research and planning. (Good luck with ECS, they have never been quick on shipping imo.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - anonymous

Good to know. Thank you. Think Turner Motorsports would stock this or Bavauto. I've used both of them with great success. I was surprised how fast my item form Bavauto got to me considering it shipped from New Hampshire to Cali

[GotZHP]

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-14215-genuine-bmw-audio-auxiliary-input-e46-2003-2006/

Looks like i'll just go Turner again. Hopefully get some more of their stickers.

[BMWCurves]

If you have Amazon Prime, you can snag it from there with free 2-day shipping. It's where I got mine and my sister's.

[GotZHP]

If you have Amazon Prime, you can snag it from there with free 2-day shipping. It's where I got mine and my sister's.

I don't have prime :/ All my friends with prime never get their items in two days, so I have stayed away from it.

I do believe their is a free trial of Prime, but don't know if it will sign me up automatically afterwards.

Turner was pretty quick with my intake boot, air filter, and DISA Valve.

[BMWCurves]

I don't have prime :/ All my friends with prime never get their items in two days, so I have stayed away from it.

I do believe their is a free trial of Prime, but don't know if it will sign me up automatically afterwards.

Turner was pretty quick with my intake boot, air filter, and DISA Valve.

Really? If you use their 2-day shipping, and it's late, you can chat with Amazon customer support and they usually give you a $5-10 credit or an added month or two of Amazon Prime. They're rarely late, and if they are, it's usually only a day.

[ELCID86]

If you have Amazon Prime, you can snag it from there with free 2-day shipping. It's where I got mine and my sister's.

That's where I got mine. And I get my stuff in 1-2 days. Even on Sunday.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160530/4955c0835c037a21bf0e5f9f5a5d1a5c.jpg

[GotZHP]

How much is Prime?

Guess I should sign up

[ELCID86]

I think it's $99 a year. There is a student program if you qualify.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - anonymous

[GotZHP]

Really? If you use their 2-day shipping, and it's late, you can chat with Amazon customer support and they usually give you a $5-10 credit or an added month or two of Amazon Prime. They're rarely late, and if they are, it's usually only a day.

My old roommates packages were always late, she'd would have a $100 in gift cards lol. For $99, thats not bad. I'll have my GF sign up since she is a student.

[GotZHP]

Interesting afternoon that didnt go as planned.

Plan was to go under the car and clean up the oil leak around the oil pan gasket. Want to see how badly it is leaking, and was seeing if I could high temp RTV band-aid to get me to my next oil change.

Instead, while driving home one of the air ducts to the brakes (driver side) decided it no longer wanted to be attached to the lower part of the car and started flapping like crazy. Anything above 20mph and it would make a ton of racket. Even with my stereo at a healthy volume I could hear it. So lifting the car and went to zip tie it back in place when I noticed two things.

First being there was a damaged wire, and there was exposed copper. I took a picture of this gizmo it was attached too. I am thinking outside air temp sensor? I Unclipped the connector and started mending the wire when I spotted a 1/4" by 1" bolt with a washer in my front driver side tire :facepalm

Mended the wire with some electrical tape for now and did my first ever tire patch. I have some photos Ill post up tmrw. Too tired to resize and organize.

Luckily, so far, these two items have been the only unexpected things to happen (knock on wood)

[GotZHP]

Some pictures from yesterday. The plug held overnight and held up to some serious on/off ramp action today. Checked the PSI in the tire after work and its still good, so i'm happy. I added a picture of the plug before it was trimmed up nice and neat. The white you see is rubber cement. Apparently motorcycle guys do this. They add rubber cement to the plug before forcing it into the tire so it adheres better. Pretty decent bolt I'd say.

Also, pretty sure the damaged wire is for the air temperature sensor. It was hot as hell in Irvine today, and my car read 72, then 85. Believe we hit 90's today easily. Just wrapped the wire up for now. If it is just the outside air temp sensor, NBD. Not going to worry about fixing it until later down the road.

[danewilson77]

Good job.

S7 Edge, out

[GotZHP]

Good job.

S7 Edge, out

Thanks Dane. This car has been quite the journey into automotive mechanics. I have enjoyed my time with the ZHP so far and look forward to it when the vanos is rebuilt, and I have a tune running on it, or just shark injector and sprint booster.

My last car was a 2014 Subaru BRZ and the only things in common with the BMW is a 6sp manual and power to the rear. The BRZ was a light ~2,750 lbs, 2 door coupe. 2 Liter flat four under the hood that was high compression, 12.5:1, and high revving, 8K. 215's on all corners with a very low stance, and basically a WRX suspension. I had tuned the car on E85 and had a catless header. Power was ~220rwhp.

Moving into the BMW was a huge change, but I am getting use to it. The weight (+~500lbs) was very noticeable at first. The BMW is much quieter on the highway which is a plus, because I spend most my time there unfortunately. The H/K sound system is much better than the BRZ system. I no longer have a touch screen / Nav combo, but most of the time I would run Waze anyways.

I really need to do something about my front tires to enjoy the cornering of the BMW. The BRZ was unbelievable in the corners, even on skinny 215 all season tires. I have much more confidence in the ZHP now(compared to 2 months ago), mostly due to the amount of work I have done to it. I am also becoming more comfortable with the characteristics of the car and how it handles.

I know I still have a long road ahead of me to get the car to be where I want it to be. I still have a few grand in maintenance to complete, and the car is due for a full suspension refresh. My plan is to drop in a LSD (BRZ comes OE w/ 1) once I get my profit sharing bonus and do up the exhaust. (vibrant muffle for short term)

A lot on the to-do-list still, but I can already tell I am going to really enjoy this car. Looking forward to the road ahead. My dream has always been to race Laguna Seca and If I could go back, I'd rename this thread " the road to Laguna Seca" or something like that.
The BMW will be the car to take it on, not this summer but the next. Gives me just over a year to fix and dial everything in.

Anyways, thanks for the support Dane & the rest of the Mafia :thumbsup

[GotZHP]

Time for some trouble shooting & diagnostics. I keep throwing P2237 & p2240 codes almost every Monday. I clear the codes and find they stay away until I exceed 85mph, then they come back :/

I think I am going to start with a DME flash. I have the hesitation around 2,800rpm so if im lucky, that will go away too. I have a feeling that is related to my VANOS units though, because my car still stalls once in awhile, and will idle hunt a bit here and there.

So looks like my ZHP will be making its first trip to the dealer for service.

[GotZHP]

So a weekend with no car things, but have a lot of IKEA furniture to build... YAY:facepalm

[Vas]

Lol

[GotZHP]

Lol

And of course IKEA forgot to ship the arms that go with my office desk chair.. GD IKEA :rolleyes

[Vas]

And of course IKEA forgot to ship the arms that go with my office desk chair.. GD IKEA :rolleyes
Pick up from the local store?

[GotZHP]

Pick up from the local store?

No delivered. There isn't an IKEA within a few hours from us. Package was suppose to be here in time for the long weekend last weekend too...

I'll most likely pick the arms up on the way back to work since I drive near the one we ordered from.

Shipping and missing parts aside, I am actually impressed with the quality of the items that were ordered. IKEA has stepped its game up a step. Normally all IKEA furniture is broken once you move or disassemble it once, but this stuff is actually all right.

Putting it together sucked though. They didnt use a normal phillips or flat head bolt/screw, but instead offered me a 2" long allen wrench to tighten everything together. Meanwhile 20v DelWalt drill is collecting dust. Nothing like 20 minutes to put 4 chair legs onto the seat.

IKEA is still 3 out of 5 for me. Looking forwrd to the day when I make enough money to shop elsewhere for furniture lol

[GotZHP]

Car projects just suffered a major financial set back...









Bought a plane ticket to France :biggrin

[danewilson77]

Car projects just suffered a major financial set back...









Bought a plane ticket to France :biggrin
In for updates.

S7 Edge, out

[fredo]

Congrats ! Projects can wait.

[slater]

Shipping and missing parts aside, I am actually impressed with the quality of the items that were ordered. IKEA has stepped its game up a step. Normally all IKEA furniture is broken once you move or disassemble it once, but this stuff is actually all right.

Putting it together sucked though. They didnt use a normal phillips or flat head bolt/screw, but instead offered me a 2" long allen wrench to tighten everything together. Meanwhile 20v DelWalt drill is collecting dust. Nothing like 20 minutes to put 4 chair legs onto the seat.

IKEA is still 3 out of 5 for me. Looking forwrd to the day when I make enough money to shop elsewhere for furniture lol

to be honest - you have to give them credit. they make furniture for many different budgets. you can be a broke college student and outfit your room for a couple hundred bucks... or, you can buy a $2000 leather sofa that has a 25-year warranty. heck, their kitchen products have a 25-year warranty and are nothing short of amazing (we love ours).

you have to be selective about what you buy there. examine your options.

i bought my home office desk chair from them - i went to a few other stores first, and did not find anything that was comfortable. then i went to ikea and sat in every office chair, and didn't look at price tags - they ranged from $50 to $500. i ended up with a $160 chair, and have been using it for 8-10hrs a day for 3 years now, and it's still just as good as the day i brought it home.

we also have their ektorp sectional sofa and it's wonderful.



Bought a plane ticket to France :biggrin

nice!!!

(see what i did there? ;) )

[danewilson77]

to be honest - you have to give them credit. they make furniture for many different budgets. you can be a broke college student and outfit your room for a couple hundred bucks... or, you can buy a $2000 leather sofa that has a 25-year warranty. heck, their kitchen products have a 25-year warranty and are nothing short of amazing (we love ours).

you have to be selective about what you buy there. examine your options.

i bought my home office desk chair from them - i went to a few other stores first, and did not find anything that was comfortable. then i went to ikea and sat in every office chair, and didn't look at price tags - they ranged from $50 to $500. i ended up with a $160 chair, and have been using it for 8-10hrs a day for 3 years now, and it's still just as good as the day i brought it home.

we also have their ektorp sectional sofa and it's wonderful.




nice!!!

(see what i did there? ;) )
You, my friend have sound judgement.

S7 Edge, out

[GotZHP]

In for updates.

S7 Edge, out

Ill be flying into Paris, then will take the train to Lyon. My GF is French, moved here when she was twelve. (just got her U.S. citizen ship a few years ago)

Her grandfather lives in Lyon but will be in the states, so we have an awesome top floor 4 bed room apartment with a deck to ourselves. The apartment has a great view over the city and is perched right above where the Rhone & Saone rivers meet. We will have a few days here to explore. I've been to Lyon once before and it is an amazing city.

Then we will be taking her grandfathers Peugeot 206 cabriolet (manual!!!) to Rossillon, which is a tiny village East of Lyon and pretty close to Switzerland. Her other set of grandparents live here in a house originally constructed in the 1800s. The exterior walls are huge stone blocks, and it seriously looks Medieval. However, the house has been updated and is very modern & contemporary for the most part in side. It has some really cool skylights that sense rain, and close automatically. They will open again 20 mins after the rain stops. The kitchen was just redone as well. My GFs room is at the front of the house and has 20ft high ceilings. Going to be amazing.

We are then going to take the Peugeot (or a renault migane, diesel w/ 6sp manual) around Lac Du Buerget to a town called Aix-Les-Bains. Going to see a musician/artist/dj named "The Avener" perform live at an outside venue on the lake front.

Going to be an awesome 10 days. Fly out the 1st of July.

[slater]

Ill be flying into Paris, then will take the train to Lyon. My GF is French, moved here when she was twelve. (just got her U.S. citizen ship a few years ago)

Her grandfather lives in Lyon but will be in the states, so we have an awesome top floor 4 bed room apartment with a deck to ourselves. The apartment has a great view over the city and is perched right above where the Rhone & Saone rivers meet. We will have a few days here to explore. I've been to Lyon once before and it is an amazing city.

Then we will be taking her grandfathers Peugeot 206 cabriolet (manual!!!) to Rossillon, which is a tiny village East of Lyon and pretty close to Switzerland. Her other set of grandparents live here in a house originally constructed in the 1800s. The exterior walls are huge stone blocks, and it seriously looks Medieval. However, the house has been updated and is very modern & contemporary for the most part in side. It has some really cool skylights that sense rain, and close automatically. They will open again 20 mins after the rain stops. The kitchen was just redone as well. My GFs room is at the front of the house and has 20ft high ceilings. Going to be amazing.

We are then going to take the Peugeot (or a renault migane, diesel w/ 6sp manual) around Lac Du Buerget to a town called Aix-Les-Bains. Going to see a musician/artist/dj named "The Avener" perform live at an outside venue on the lake front.

Going to be an awesome 10 days. Fly out the 1st of July.

awesome. in for pics, especially of that house - sounds like what we're doing to our 200-year old house!

have mega fun!!! :)

[slater]

You, my friend have sound judgement.

S7 Edge, out

i try to be a smart consumer. ;)

[GotZHP]

So this isn't good. Two problems developing with the car. Problem #1, clutch is dragging while in neutral in the parking lot. push the pedal in a bit, sounds goes away. Let pedal back out, sound comes back. Sound is worse than ever. I thought I had a slight noise before but wasn't sure, but now I am. May be related to why 3rd gear has been extremely notchy maybe not.

Problem #2, a shimmy / shake coming from what I believe to be the front driver side corner. Dont think it is the wheel. Havent hit any big enough pot holes. Had new front lower control arm bushings installed already. My friend suggested maybe a tie rod? Havent researched it much but both these issues are troublesome and need to be solved.

Hoping I can just adjust the clutch and not have to buy a new one:confused

[GotZHP]

I did some troubleshooting & inspection yesterday. I have a wobble (side to side, not up / down) coming from what I believe to be the driver side front tire or suspension. At lower speeds (20mph or less), the car wobbles back and forth, enough to make my body sway back and forth if the oscillation is right. At higher speeds, the wobble isn't as noticeable, but there is a slight shimmy in the steering wheel.

I lifted the front corners off the ground 1 at at a time to see if my wheel bearings are doneso. There was a small amount of play, but nothing major or noticeable. Both corners felt the same, and had a small amount of movement in the direction that the tires would normally turn, but no movement when pushing on the the tire at 12 and 6 position. I don't think it is a wheel bearing because of the previous statement and the fact that there is almost no noise when the tire spins.

The rotor makes a small amount of noise in a small spot once per revolution of the tire, but there is no shaking when braking, so I don't think the rotor is causing the issue. Rotors & pads are new with only ~7,000 miles on them. Pads are in great shape as well.

I removed the front tire on the driver side to inspected the control arm, bushings, and tie rod. Lower control arm bushings are new, replqaced when the brakes were done. Install looks good, so LCABs are out.

The other bushings seemed ok. Not a lot of play, and all of the boots are intact, one piece with no cracks. I am no suspension expert, and I am new to the E46 so I am kinda stumped. My thoughts are it could be the tire or the wheel, but there is minimal transfer to the steering wheel of the wobble. The front tires on my car are new, replaced when brakes were done, but they are sh!t off brand tires.

the front driver side tire has a flat spot and a patch. The patch was done by me and a friend who is pretty experienced with patches and it came out great. I don't think the patch is enough to unbalance a tire? right? I mean its a small piece of sticky rubber with some glue added. The flat spot on the other hand, could be noticed, but again the motion feels like it is side to side, not up and down, but I could be wrong here.

So tire is my first guess, followed by the wheel, then maybe the control arm. The wheel appears to be round, and i will verify this today when I mount it to a lathe and use some precision measuring instruments. I am hoping for the tire to be the issue, since I want to replace them anyways.

Most likely I will get the front tires rotated, balanced, and aligned. I think this would be an appropriate first step. I will most likely post up in troubleshoot area of the forum as well if I don't get any hits here.

Anyone else have a problem similar to this? Any insight is appreciated. Car just rolled 112,000 miles. All suspension components are originals as far as I know, except LCABs.

[TigerTater]

I had similar problems had a flat spot on the tire. Replaced tires vibrations gone. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160627/3572b5b44da412ae980016b912600de9.jpg

Couldn't see the spot bc it was on the inside of the wheel.

[BMWCurves]

Wow, that's a serious divot in that tire. Does it go all the way around or is it just in one spot?

[GotZHP]

Well after much trouble shooting and testing things out. I have figured out my problem. I am going to open by saying, I have a complaint against Cal-Trans ready to be filed, just to set the mood. So not a happy camper at the moment.

I spent all this past weekend under the front end of the car, pulling and pushing and inspecting all of the suspension components. Everything checked out. Front wheel had a flat spot, not too bad, so I kept looking. Found nothing really this weekend. Noticed the car getting a lot worse over the 700 miles put on this weekend and yesterday.

Today I jacked the car up again and removed the front tires. I swapped them, and as I was putting the front driver tire on (from passenger side) I looked back at the rear tire because I noticed something off about it. My suspicion was driver's front but I was waaay wrong.

Driver side rear tire is completely ruined. Side wall ripped, huge bubble, and exposed wire mesh. Tire is toast and I know exactly where it happened. There is a section of the 710 outside of LA going North were there are these huge metal grates for stormwater run off. These grates are in the far left lane, on the driver's side. The problem is the grating material, metal 1/4" strips, runs in line with the tire. So you hit the grate and there is one or two thin pieces of metal for your car to ride on. Not to mention the car comes crashing down onto them because the grate sits much much lower than the road itself. The road in general is a mess there. Many of the patches to the concrete are off by an 1" plus.

I cringed the whole time I was on this road and for good reason. I am going to a tire shop tomorrow to get the tire replace and the wheels inspected. If my rims are bent I will be following through with the complaint. A guy at work filled a complaint when he had two brand new tires blow out and two brand new rims bend on a car he bought a a few months before and he was compensated for the new parts, so I will expect the same.

Now if the rims are not bent, I guess one could argue that it is due to camber wear, but the tires still have some decent tread on them. Anyways, not happy, no tire shops open, and no spare or donut in the trunk. Was suppose to go in to work tomorrow at 4 and thats not happening. Also leaving for France this Friday morning and didnt want to worry / spend money on the car this week :facepalm

Here are a few photos. I have some more and a video of me rolling the tire. Ill get the rest up tomorrow

[BMWCurves]

Damn. Those tires no longer look safe to drive on. Were I you, I'd file.

[GotZHP]

Damn. Those tires no longer look safe to drive on. Were I you, I'd file.

O absolutely not safe to drive on. I work as a environmental, health, and safety specialist/adviser so I am on board with that. What I did to get to work today was kind of funny. I did drive the car but only a mile an half down the road to the on ramp to the highway. Pulled over in a safe area, threw the flashers on, called roadside assistance, put my feet up and enjoyed my coffee and crossword while waiting for the tow truck. Half hour later I was being driven to work, car on a flat bed :)

But yes I plan on filing the complaint. My other rear tire is showing some signs of camber wear but it is not blown out. Also, by swapping the front end tires, my wobble / steering wheel shake was significantly decreased. The flat spot in the front tire either has more impact than I thought it would, or there is a corresponding flat spot in the wheel. Either way swapping it to the passenger side was noticeable in the almost 2 miles I drove the car this morning.

Can bent rims be unbent? I know I bent the rims on my 850R back in high school when I hit a curb, but can't recall if I had them repaired or just got two used ones.

[GotZHP]

I had similar problems had a flat spot on the tire. Replaced tires vibrations gone.

Couldn't see the spot bc it was on the inside of the wheel.

Dude, that is one weird wear patch on a tire. Never seen something like that before.

btw, what tires are those?

[TigerTater]

Dude, that is one weird wear patch on a tire. Never seen something like that before.

btw, what tires are those?

Only extended as far as you see. No idea how it happens. I think they were some variety of falcon tires. Original when I bout it. Run conti dws now. Much better tire

[GotZHP]

Well car is back to normal mostly.

Tires were so toast. I kept them and will get some photos up later. Bought some cheapos now to replace what was there. For cheap tires I am happy with them thus far. I bought some Barum Bravuris 3HMs. They are an ultra high performance summer tire, but on the cheaper end. I am impressed with the initial testing. Grip is great and there is hardly any road noise from them.

Once I square my car up, ill buy some nice tires, but in the meantime these will do. The guy I purchased the car from had put new tires on the front, and it now has new ones on the rear so I should be good for 30,000 more miles. I most likely wont make it to a track til next summer, and why waste money on good tires when I am just driving mostly freeways. The tires on the car are adequate for spirited canyon drives.

The suspension on the other hand, needs some new parts. I have a lot of play at the actual wheels, and I feel my inner tie rod bushings are part of the problem. I can literally grab a wheel( 3 and 9) and shake it back and forth a good 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. There is still a tiny wobble in steering feel but it is almost unnoticeable.

Happy I was able to get my car running smooth again for only $315 dollars. Two new tires mounted, and installed, all tires balanced. There is a bend in my rear rim however, so I will pursue a complaint against Cal-Trans. I work as a safety professional among other duties, and this is a pretty serious road hazard by design. I dont know if it I will get anywhere with it, but I am going to try and get the cost of the driver side tires and rim covered. How knows.

anyways, here is a link to the tire. Not really well know in the states, but there was decent reviews from England. Had to happen right before my vacation, so I really didn't want to spend a ton of $$$ that could be spent in France.

http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Barum/Bravuris-3HM.htm

Tread design is similar to the PSS in a few ways. This site posted below has more reviews, but shows the wrong tread pattern. There are complaints of road noise, but compared to my Nankings, they whisper. I am wondering if the tread pattern was changed, and this site is outdated? Site above seems more reliable and accurate.

https://www.national.co.uk/tyres/brand/barum/bravuris-3hm/

Ill keep everyone posted as they wear, but initial impression is they are a great tire for the price.

[GotZHP]

So it has been a long time since I've posted. Life has been too busy. Vacation in France was amazing and the best 10 days I've had in years. Time seemed to momentarily stand still. France is a beautiful country full of beautiful people who live amazing lives with great food. I can't wait to start planning the next vacation, but any plans have been put on hold.

this past Monday, driving to work as the sun was rising over the highway. I got into a car accident when the car in front of me slammed on their brakes due to surging traffic and someone cutting into the lane I was in a few cars up. I slammed on my brakes as well, but my front end completely locked up, and I skidded into the car in front of me. The impact was not that bad, but my heart dropped when steam started to rise out of my now bent hood. I pulled over to the side of the highway and shut the engine down within 20 seconds, and my temperature gauge did not rise. The car I hit just needs a new rear bumper and muffler. Unfortunately, the ZHP fared far worse.

My return to the forum is under grim circumstances :(:facepalm

I took Monday off to initiate the insurance claim and figure out what the next steps were. I was pretty distraught and knew the whiplash would be settling in. I had my car towed off the freeway and to a salvage car lot were my insurance company operates out of. I returned to work and waited for the adjuster to call. 26809268102681126812

[BMWCurves]

Damn, sorry to hear! Most importantly, you and everyone else is okay.

[3ZHPGUY]

Ouch, that hurts! Glad you're OK and wishing you the best of luck dealing with the insurance Co.


Sent from my iPhone 6S using Tapatalk

[fredo]

+1. My nephew was in a car accident last month (the car was on my policy) and the insurance company took good care of the situation.

[Vas]

Fingers crossed it works out

[ELCID86]

Glad you had a great trip and would love to hear more about it sometime. Really sorry for your accident. Push them hard to not total it. It seems to be the easier route for the adjuster in some cases. Colin's was a lot worse than yours and was totaled.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160820/cf9d7569de398b281ec59a9e280531cf.jpg

[GotZHP]

So Thursday rolls around and I get the long awaited call from the insurance. I missed the call but listened to the voice mail. The insurance adjuster says the car is a total loss. In California, Damages to a vehicle need to be 100% of the value of the vehicle for it to be declared totaled. In my case, the car was valued at $8,900 (total BS). Insurance was going to offer me $7,900 after deductible to total the car or $6,900 if I kept the car. If the car was kept, it would be under a salvaged title.

I called the adjuster back and requested the damage appraisal to be sent to me. The rough estimate showed $7,500 dollars in damages, with $1,100 being labor cost for paint work to the hood and bumper. $6,600 dollars in parts, which included 2 new headlight assemblies. I took the parts list and sent it over to Alex Meschi at Irvine BMW. Alex corrected the part numbers on the list as there was several errors, including parts for 330s with automatic transmissions. Once the list was corrected the part cost, at list price, was $7,000. However, net price was $5,500 dollars.

-Quick aside, If you are in Orange County and in need of parts, Alex is your man. I've been ordering parts form him since I've owned the ZHP and he has been informative, helpful, and very professional. He stocks most common e46 parts, and can get the rest in a day or two. All my parts will continue to come from the Irvine BMW parts department-

So with a $5,500 parts list in hand I went to go see my ZHP. The car is at a Copart north of L.A. I met the insurance adjuster and continued to argue the salvage title with him for the next hour. Long story short, I could have had my car's value reappraised, and if the value went up significantly, the car would not be considered a total loss. However this process would take 2-3 weeks. I put everything aside in my mind and set up to do a minor tear down of the car. I was allowed to do minor work to the vehicle, and I many removed all the plastic bits that were broken or in the way of the sheet metal.

It took 3 hours to get parts out of the car, evaluated, photographed, and inputted into my spreadsheet. There was no structural damage to the car, no engine damage to the car, the car did not over heat, and the original appraisal included a lot of parts I found to be in good condition. All the damage, minus painting, was to parts that are bolted into place.

My parts cost were down to $5,500 and just by going after market for the headlights, I was down to ~$2,650 dollars in parts. OE headlamps net at ~$1,200 dollars and list at ~$1,400!!!!

From the $2,650 dollar parts list, I removed the cost of the front bump, license plate bracket, and other trim parts. Down to ~$2,000 in parts. The bumper fared well considering and there is only minor cosmetic damage.

From the $2,000 dollars I subtracted the fan & shroud, which is about $480 dollars. The fan was intact, and the shroud was 95%. One small plastic part broke off as I pulled it from the car, but it has not structural or functional purpose. Down to ~$1,500 in parts. Even the radiator was in good condition! That is how minor this accident really was. The front panel was bashed in, but did not contact the radiator. The radiator support was bent as well, but not near the radiator itself. I believe the radiator to be in good working order, but it was on the maintenance to-do-list, so I kept the cost on the list.

After a thorough examination of the vehicle, i decided to keep it!

No way was I going to let it go for $8,500 dollars for what I believe to be around ~$2,000 - $2,500 dollars of parts and maybe $1,000 in labor for painting a hood. I could have gone the route to argue the value of the vehicle, and realistically could have gotten 2 or 3k more for it, but I cannot go 3 weeks without a car, and would have to rent one in the meantime.

After deductible, I have $7,000 dollars in hand to fix the vehicle. It will have a salvage title, but I do not intend on selling this car. My insurance rate will go up due to the accident but I can still get full comprehensive insurance. My registration fee will go up by $20 and I will have to pass a safety check, but none of my airbags deployed. California is actually pretty easy when it comes to salvage titles. The only way I would get screwed by this is if I got into another accident.

My car is awaiting my pick up next week. I need to find a shop for it and am still working on some of the details. My current plan is I would do the tear down, I would then pay a shop to install a new hood and the front plate / radiator support as that is were the hood latch is. I'd then have the car towed to my place to finish the work.

[fredo]

I believe keeping yor car was a good choice. In for progress of your new project. :thumbsup

[GotZHP]

Thanks Fredo. I agree that keeping the car was the right choice. I will hopefully have more pictures up this afternoon. I forgot my iPhone cord at work so need to borrow one. I'll turn the parts list into a JPEG so I can post that here. It is just the start of the parts I will need and I have a feeling the list is going to grow some. Fasteners and clips will need to be purchased as well but I won't know all of them until I get the car completed pulled apart.

[GotZHP]

Here is the parts list from Irvine BMW. After removing the parts I will be reusing, the parts total is at $2,388.28.



26813

[Vas]

In regards to the current headlights, I would be interested in them.

[GotZHP]

I am thinking of purchasing aftermarket ones made by SpyderAuto.

http://www.spyderauto.com/product.php?id=PRO-YD-BMWE4602-4D-3DDRL-BK&t=spyder

I had these on my BRZ

http://www.spyderauto.com/product.php?mode=cs&id=ALT-YD-SFRS12-LBLED-RD&car_make=Subaru&car_model=BRZ&car_year=2014&t=-Scion-FRS-12-16-Subaru-BRZ-12-16-Light-Bar-LED-Tail-Lights-JDM-Red

I found the quality to be pretty good. Problems only occurred when the nuts holding the lights in place were over torqued, causing the seal to warp. I need to research some more.

If this is the route I go, I would not need the current ones. As far as I know, the passenger side is in working condition with no damage. What broke was the pop rivet or clip holding it in place. I would recommend replacing the lens. the right one did sustain damage. I have photographs of both that ill post

[johnrando]

Wow, lots going in, hope it all works out.


Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

[Vas]

I just need cores for a headlight rebuild. Let me know

[GotZHP]

I believe both cores are in work order, I know the left was 95% good to go. I will let you know.

After researching the Spyder Headlights, I am unsure if that is the right route to go. Not many reviews but found some on e46f that were not good. I am wondering if I should just get some ZKWs and call it a day. I found another company called CK Distribution that makes after market E46 headlights with angel eyes, but havent found any reviews yet.

[GotZHP]

Wow, lots going in, hope it all works out.


Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

I hope it works out as well, thanks for the encouragement JohnRando. this list is going to grow substantially, but should remain in budget. I have already sourced an air box for an unbeatable price. Shout out to @Karl Lazlo for helping out a fellow forum member!

[Vas]

There is a set of AL headlights on ebay for $600 right now. The AL are better then the ZKW since they do not suffer the burnt bowls.

Do not go aftermarket.

[GotZHP]

There is a set of AL headlights on ebay for $600 right now. The AL are better then the ZKW since they do not suffer the burnt bowls.

Do not go aftermarket.

Who is the seller?

[Vas]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160821/9f4da47255650cd8775b6b8c86908689.jpg

[GotZHP]

Awesome, Thanks Vas.

think I have my hood and headlights figured out.

started a spreadsheet for parts that I may need but need to take the car apart some more to get a much more accurate list.

[GotZHP]

Well, My parts list has grown substantially. I have yet to completely tear down the car but I am typing up all the parts I may need. Up to 50 line items at the moment, yikes.

Tomorrow I will have the car towed from the salvage yard to a co-workers place. He is letting me use his second garage bay as a work space and temporary storage unit. My plan is to have the car running at the end of labor day weekend. Labor I will!

I downloaded all the pictures I took form the salvage yard but have not had time to go through them all. I'll post some up tomorrow so everyone can see. Picked up the insurance check today, shopping spree starts tomorrow.

[GotZHP]

Parts list has grown. Still need some parts around the radiator and condenser. Looking at just north of $2,500 at the moment. Car will be towed to its new home tomorrow and the tear down will commence after work. Cant wait to be back with my baby :blushing



2683626837

[GotZHP]

http://seiboncarbon.com/store/products/oem-style-carbon-fiber-hood-for2002-2005-bmw-e46-4dr.html

Been eyeing this :drool

[GotZHP]

So i've always had a suspicion that this vehicle has been in a minor accident. Fog lights were missing the trim piece around them and one was not attached to the bumper properly. The plastic trim pieces under the vehicle and by the tires are all beat to hell. And now i've confirmed my suspicion. The front bumper should be held on by 8 pop rivets. Mine had a screw, two metal tab bolt things, and only 3 pop rivets. the bolts are weird and have a flat metal square tab on one end.

Fixing it right this time. Running my budget there is a lot f room to spare, so while the front of the car is disassembled I am going to replace the T-stat and housing, all the coolant hoses & heater inlet pipe, replacing the oil pan gasket, and going to replace both lower control arms and tie rods. Looks like I have my work cu tout for me. Hoping to do this all in 2 weeks plus a weekend....

[GotZHP]

2685026851

[Vas]

Nice. Looking forward to it

[BMWCurves]

"DO NOT FORK" :shifty

[GotZHP]

At the salvage yards they had these huge front end loaders with 20ft long forks and would just scoop up cars from underneath and would drive away with them at a fast rate. Did not want such treatment for my baby.

[Karl Lazlo]

"DO NOT FORK"

A lot of my dates wear that on their tshirts. But, they spell it differently.

GotZHP - Glad to see another BMW saved from the crusher. Good work!

[GotZHP]

First round of parts ordered today. Dropped ~$2,500 at Irvine BMW. While the car is open I am replacing the oil pan gasket, all of the remaining cooling system parts, and all of the plastic trim pieces in and around the wheel well and front bumper. These parts include the air ducts that lead air to the brakes which makes it worth it in my opinion. I also got a new ambient air sensor on the way since mine is damaged.

I've decided to leave the AC system alone. I believe it is in good working order. The plan is to replace radiator and coolant hoses, add fluid. Replace oil pan gasket, add fluid. Start motor and test AC system. It was ice cold before so if that has changed I know there is an issue.

Going to order headlights and the VIS Racing Carbon Fiber hood this weekend! Still trying to figure out the headlights. One of mine works fine, so maybe rebuild it with new projectors and lens and only buy one new headlight? Up in the air. I know I want angel eyes, so that is a part of the decision.

Been awfully quiet around here :eeps

Ill have more pictures to make it more entertaining. I will also be recording the entire rebuild process with a GoPro, so that will be fun and informative for all!

[Vas]

If I were you, I would avoid the carbon fiber hood.

I had a VIS hood on my previous car and it was a big let down. The fitment was not great, you could not use the factory gas shocks since they are too strong for the carbon hood and eventually the gel coat started to fade on the hood. I didn't realize that the hoods don't have clear coat on top of the gel coat from the factory.

Look for a used factory hood or get a new one from the dealer.

And maybe some bmw performance Grills.

[GotZHP]

If I were you, I would avoid the carbon fiber hood.

I had a VIS hood on my previous car and it was a big let down. The fitment was not great, you could not use the factory gas shocks since they are too strong for the carbon hood and eventually the gel coat started to fade on the hood. I didn't realize that the hoods don't have clear coat on top of the gel coat from the factory.

Look for a used factory hood or get a new one from the dealer.

And maybe some bmw performance Grills.

WOLFN8TR has a hood by the same company. Pretty sure the hood comes with a 3 year warranty on everything. M3 gas shocks would be used as they are designed for a lighter weight hood. One of my gas shocks and hinges is bent anyways, so a replacement was in order. The stock hood is $450, plus paint & clear coat.

As for grills, I want black ones with the M color stripes on one. Undecided on Matte or Gloss though:confused

[WOLFN8TR]

To bad you don't have a coupe as I have a Silver Grey M3 Hood laying in the spare bedroom!

I used the M3 OE gas hood shocks with no issues. The VIS hood fits pretty decent if you take the time to adjust it. The OE hood fits perfect and the VIS does not.

[GotZHP]

To bad you don't have a coupe as I have a Silver Grey M3 Hood laying in the spare bedroom!

I used the M3 OE gas hood shocks with no issues. The VIS hood fits pretty decent if you take the time to adjust it. The OE hood fits perfect and the VIS does not.

I think im sold on the carbon fiber hood. Adjusting it should be easy since the entire front end is off. I will just put everything back on together so hood, bumper, and headlights fit cleanly and evenly. If the hood goes a year or two before yellowing, great, will just paint it then. Form what I've read, VIS has a pretty solid product, and with hte hood being on sale for $650, cant complain about the price, since VIS retails them from their site at over $900.

[GotZHP]

Working on resizing all of the photos I took, which was a lot.... Here are a few of the car sitting at the salvage yard. I knew the second I saw her, I was keeping my car.

[GotZHP]

The only bit of body work that will need to be done is for the hood hing on the passenger side of the car. The second mounting point of where the hing attaches to the car, ripped itself out of the sheet metal. I am hoping this can be hammered back into place and then spot welded. I don't see an issue this this method, just need to be careful not to introduce too much heat in the area as an exposed finished surface is not far away.

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