BMWCurve's Sibling's 2003 BMW 330Xi M Sport Canadian Maintenance Ledger

[BMWCurves]

The Basics
My sister isn't a member here but I figured to help document the rehabilitation of her new purchase I would create a project/maintenance thread for her car on her behalf as well as anyone that has a 330Xi in need of some maintenance.

Year:2003
Model: 330Xi
Transmission: 5-speed manual (not sure the make on the gearbox)
Exterior Color: Black Sapphire Metallic (475)
Interior Color: Black (N6SW)
Trim: Black Cube
Packages: Premium, Cold Weather, and M Sport (Canadian car, essentially the Canadian equivalent to our ZHP package in the US)
Purchased: 03/12/2016
Mileage at purchase: 78,655 miles
VIN: WBAEW53403PG10122

The Purchase
My sister has had the same 2000 VW Jetta GLS (I think that's the right model, the 2.0L) with a 5-speed manual since she got it for high school. It's old, it's traveled, it's seen better days. Because the Jetta is in great need of being put out to pasture, my sister has been looking for her dream car (Porsche Carrera 4S and Audi R8 aside), an E46 330Xi with a manual transmission and the Cold Weather Package so that she can get to the mountain to ski in style. I have been searching for her for about the same mount of time I began looking in 2014 for my ZHP. I truly believe a low mileage, well maintained 330Xi with a manual is far rarer than a ZHP, and has even more aggressive buyers for them. After literally years of searching, my sister's husband sent me an email late Friday night with a freshly posted Craigslist ad showing a Canadian 330Xi manual with low miles and a body kit like our ZHPs. Upon further inspection it had both the Premium, Cold Weather, and M Sport packages. It checked all the boxes, so I shot the seller an email that night about my interest. I met him the next morning, liked what I saw, had it inspected, and purchased it the same day. The seller had to cancel appointments with four other potential buyers. Now it's at my parents' house while we get together all the maintenance items that need to be addressed.

The Maintenance
I had started a previous thread here (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?17868-2003-330Xi-Fluid-Capacity-and-Maintenance-Questions) asking a few maintenance questions, but decided I'll try and cover everything here.

Miscellaneous items that need to be addressed:

Trunk release button on the trunk does not work.
Codes for O2 sensor
Internal fault code for the GM
Issue with front driver's side turn signal
Sunshade is stuck open
Three jack pads are missing (BMW, 3x) - 51718268885
Auxiliary input cable needs to be relocated
AC service
Parking brake adjustment
Replace bubbling and worn ZHP 5-speed shift knob (2511789603)

Maintenance I'm suggesting
Suspension
Koni shocks/struts

Front right strut: 8741-1481RSPORT
Front left strut: 8741-1481LSPORT
Rear shocks (2x): 8040-1343SPORT

Best I could find was from ECSTuning.com for $593.20 shipped.

Bushings
The mechanic said these bushings felt alright, but who knows when they were last changed.

Front control arm bushings (FCABs) (BMW) - 31129063163
Rear trailing arm bushings (RTABs) for Z4M (OEM) - 33326770817
Hex bolt w/ washer for FCABs (BMW, 4x) - 33306760652

Other parts

Rear shock mounts (Rogue Engineering)
Front shock mounts (Lemfoerder, 2x) - 31336752735
Strut reinforcement plates (BMW, 2x) - 51717036781
Front strut dust cap (BMW, 2x) - 31331110196
Locking nuts for strut mounts (BMW, 6x) - 31316769731

Optional parts
In order to save cost I tried to offer optional parts.

Front spring pads, upper (BMW, 2x) - 31331091867
Front spring pads, lower (BMW, 2x) - 31331096664
Rear spring pads, upper (BMW, 2x) - 33531094754
Rear spring pads, lower (BMW, 2x) - 33531094518
Bump stops, front, plus dust boots (BMW, 2x) - 31302290316
Bump stops, rear (Meyle, 2x) - 33506757368
Dust boots, rear (Febi, 2x) - 33521136283
RTAB limiters (Vorshlag)

Cooling System
I am guessing all the parts are original since the previous owner doesn't recall any maintenance being done on the cooling system during his ownership. It's due.

Radiator (Behr) - 17119071518
Expansion tank (OEM) - 17117573781
Expansion tank cap (BMW) - E46 - 17117639022 (2.0 bar) or E30 - 17137639023 (1.4 bar)
Expansion tank mounting clamp (BMW) - 17111707777
Water pump (BMW) - 11517509985
Thermostat (Mahle) - 11537509227
Upper radiator hose (Rein) - 17127510952
Lower radiator hose (BMW) - 11531436408
Coolant temperature sensor/auxiliary fan switch (BMW) - 13621433077
Coolant level sensor (BMW) - 17137553919
Coolant (BMW, 1 gallon) - 82141467704

Optional parts

Water pump pulley (BMW) - 11511436590
Hex bolt for water pump pulley (BMW, 4x) - 07119904524
Expansion tank mounting bracket (BMW) - 17111436250

Belts and Pulleys
Belts
Note: the belts look decent from a quick inspection (no real cracks visible) but would be worth changing for peace of mind.

Accessory belt (Continental) - 11281706545 / 11287636379
AC belt (Continental) - 11287512762

Pulleys

AC pulley (INA) - 11287512758
Idler pulley (INA) - 11287841228
Tensioner pulley (INA) - 11281748131

Fluids
Note: the previous owner stated that all fluids were flushed in June 2014, but he did not specify how extensive "all fluids" was. It's cheap insurance to make sure the internals are running well.
Oil change

Motor oil (8 quarts) - Two good options, BMW 5W30 or Mobil 1 0W-40.
Filter kit (MANN) - Includes filter, large o-ring, and crush washer
Smaller o-rings (BMW, 2x) - 11427549573
Optional: purchase a magnetic drain plug from somewhere.

Other fluids

Transmission fluid (1.1-1.3 quarts) - Redline MTL or Redline D4 ATF
Front and rear differential fluid (front: 0.74 quarts, rear: 1.06 quarts) - Redline 75W90
Front/rear differential crush washers (BMW, 4x) - 07119963355
Transfer case (0.16 quarts) - Redline D4 ATF
Crush washers for the transfer case (BMW, 2x) - 07119963308
Power steering fluid (1 quart) - Redline D4 ATF
Brake fluid - Again, several options. BMW (part no. 81220142156, 3 bottles), Pentosin DOT4 LV, or ATE Type 200 are all good options.

Miscellaneous parts

Spark plugs (NGK, 6) - 12120037607 / BKR6EQUP
Cabin air filter (MANN) - 64319257504
Air intake filter (MANN) - 13721744869
Wiper blades (BMW) - Evo version - 61610037009

Notes:

Brakes have decent life left in them so that'll be deferred. I suggest Hawk HPS 5.0 pads (fronts - HB464B.764, rears - HB518B.642)
Skipped fuel filter since previous owner did it only about a year ago (13327512019)
I have never done the DISA valve rebuild, but I'd wager it'll be due sometime soon but isn't imperative to do it now.
To keep cost down my father and I will try and tackle most of the labor.
Upper and lower intake boots are in good shape since they were replaced recently.
Had the tail light ground wire recall as well as the passenger airbag recall performed.
Has non-stock gauge faces because US DOT requires MPH gauges. Depending on my sister's preferences we may change them out for a stock E46 330 cluster or ZHP cluster.

It's a lot to do but I think it'll get the car into great shape for my sister. Any thoughts or advice on my maintenance list or things I should look into would be greatly appreciated!

PICS - It's dirty as hell but it's just been sitting in the garage since it was purchased and the weather hasn't really behaved so it hasn't been washed yet. Will be cleaned soon (hopefully). Then a detail later.

http://i.imgur.com/8ypFF0a.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/JncaaFr.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/yC1I2KP.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ctL98SE.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/PFTCWuz.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/faypG0u.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/t74Q0RG.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/J2P2Ox0.jpg

[slater]

pics, william, pics! we want to see the pics! :) haha.

the canadian M Sport package basically gives you all of the cosmetic goodies of the ZHP, but that's it. no cams, software, oil pump nut loctite, 3.07 rear end, etc. this car must have a pre-march 2003 build because it's a 5-speed - which makes it potentially even rarer (*edit - just checked - 2/24/03 build date). not many M Sports were built before 3/2003!

nice find, man! (and post some pics! ;) )

[Lublisha]

You snagged that thing fast! I saw it had posted as I was driving back from picking up my car in Tacoma. Didn't realize that was what you were having inspected


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GotZHP]

Suspension
Koni shocks/struts
Front right strut: 8741-1481RSPORT
Front left strut: 8741-1481LSPORT
Rear shocks (2x): 8040-1343SPORT

Best I could find was from ECSTuning.com for $593.20 shipped.


How do these ride? How much drop compared to stock ride height. I pulled up to another ZHP this week and my car looked dropped, but really the stock suspension is sagging :(

[BMWCurves]

pics, william, pics! we want to see the pics! :) haha.

the canadian M Sport package basically gives you all of the cosmetic goodies of the ZHP, but that's it. no cams, software, oil pump nut loctite, 3.07 rear end, etc. this car must have a pre-march 2003 build because it's a 5-speed - which makes it potentially even rarer (*edit - just checked - 2/24/03 build date). not many M Sports were built before 3/2003!

nice find, man! (and post some pics! ;) )

Haha I'll do my best to get pics soon. It's just sitting in the garage right now, surrounded by other cars so it doesn't move. It's also filthy, the previous owner didn't think he'd sell it quickly so he didn't even get a chance to wash it before it sold. But picture a black ZHP that sits higher than our cars (no lowering sport springs), and rides on square style 68 wheels (245/40R17 tires) instead of style 135s.

I realize it doesn't have any of the ZHP mechanical goodies, but it does look good! And it's not like my sister will miss the 10 hp and 8 ft-lbs, she's coming from a car that had 115 from the factory and has most likely lost a more than a few ponies from the stable since then.


You snagged that thing fast! I saw it had posted as I was driving back from picking up my car in Tacoma. Didn't realize that was what you were having inspected

Yup! The seller had several other buyers lined up and I wasn't taking a chance.


How do these ride? How much drop compared to stock ride height. I pulled up to another ZHP this week and my car looked dropped, but really the stock suspension is sagging :(

I love my Konis on my car. I've had them installed for about 6 months and they ride great at 3/4 turn from soft. Great balance of comfort and performance on stock ZHP springs. Other members have a similar setup and I believe they all like how they feel. Changing shocks/struts shouldn't reduce your ride height, that comes down to springs. I use stock springs so my car sits at stock ZHP height.

[GotZHP]

Haha I'll do my best to get pics soon. It's just sitting in the garage right now, surrounded by other cars so it doesn't move. It's also filthy, the previous owner didn't think he'd sell it quickly so he didn't even get a chance to wash it before it sold. But picture a black ZHP that sits higher than our cars (no lowering sport springs), and rides on square style 68 wheels (245/40R17 tires) instead of style 135s.

I realize it doesn't have any of the ZHP mechanical goodies, but it does look good! And it's not like my sister will miss the 10 hp and 8 ft-lbs, she's coming from a car that had 115 from the factory and has most likely lost a more than a few ponies from the stable since then.



Yup! The seller had several other buyers lined up and I wasn't taking a chance.



I love my Konis on my car. I've had them installed for about 6 months and they ride great at 3/4 turn from soft. Great balance of comfort and performance on stock ZHP springs. Other members have a similar setup and I believe they all like how they feel. Changing shocks/struts shouldn't reduce your ride height, that comes down to springs. I use stock springs so my car sits at stock ZHP height.

Not a bad idea for a good suspension refresh. I really want coilovers, but my current suspension will not last until i can afford them, so this could be a good set up for 5 to 12 months

[fredo]

Good catch, William ... Is your sister keeping both cars for a while ? I bet you and your dad want to do as much as possible before the 330xi becomes her only car. GL man !

[BMWCurves]

Not a bad idea for a good suspension refresh. I really want coilovers, but my current suspension will not last until i can afford them, so this could be a good set up for 5 to 12 months

Definitely worth it. Can't say enough good things about it.


Good catch, William ... Is your sister keeping both cars for a while ? I bet you and your dad want to do as much as possible before the 330xi becomes her only car. GL man !

She is. I keep joking that once the 330Xi is in good shape, she should just leave her Jetta unlocked with the key on the hood in some parking lot. She does not find that funny. KBB puts it worth about $1,500.

As for the BMW, I decided to go back in and clear error codes to see if that would remove the SES light (it did). Granted, the car hasn't been driven so it will likely rear its head again, but for now it is clear. Total remaining errors were as follows in PA Soft:

DME: Not sure what these mean, can anyone clue me in?

http://i.imgur.com/1xsaOZH.png

ZKE: Again, not sure what the code means

http://i.imgur.com/4pCZb0Y.png

LCM: Known issue. Gauge cluster shows the bulb out, but if you flick the indicator stalk for about a second it'll quick flash like a bulb is out and then function as normal. Most likely a failing socket in the front driver's side indicator.

http://i.imgur.com/ThfDoQV.png

IKE: This one be my own fault, I messed with the service interval value (went from 25,000 km to 12,500 km) but it doesn't seem to like that for some reason. Anyone know why?

http://i.imgur.com/NisQlVL.png

[Oli77]

Isn't the first one Oxygen sensor related?

[BMWCurves]

Isn't the first one Oxygen sensor related?

That's what I assume, but really don't know.

[Vas]

Subscribed to read this later.

[BMWCurves]

I plan to drive the car for a short drive this week to see what additional codes pop up, followed by a wash when the weather behaves (it's been raining and supposed to stay that way for the next few days). Will post pics then.

My sister ordered all parts I suggested minus the optional parts. Should be set.

Can anyone think of any other large maintenance I should suggest?

[Vas]

Dang. That will be alot of parts to install. Good luck with the overhaul.

[BMWCurves]

Dang. That will be alot of parts to install. Good luck with the overhaul.

Thanks. Thankfully there's plenty of time on our hands. I'll probably do an hour or two each night once the parts roll in and then try and knock out the rest on a weekend.

As an aside, does anyone know of a short shift kit for a 5-speed 330Xi that isn't UUC?

[slater]

Thanks. Thankfully there's plenty of time on our hands. I'll probably do an hour or two each night once the parts roll in and then try and knock out the rest on a weekend.

As an aside, does anyone know of a short shift kit for a 5-speed 330Xi that isn't UUC?

i don't, but surely there's something in the OEM parts bin that will work?

also, simply refreshing/upgrading the linkage will make it feel awesome. i have the stock shifter but mine feel ridiculously good.

[BMWCurves]

Which parts specifically did you refresh?

[BMWCurves]

Added some (dirty) pics of the car in the original post. It's basically sat in the garage since we purchased it and there hasn't been much break in the rain to give it a wash but it might be cleaned this weekend.

Parts are starting to roll in. The Koni Sports arrived today from ECS:

http://i.imgur.com/Gc7Djc4.jpg

[BMWCurves]

More parts arriving. Just need the last box from ECS and I can get to work:

http://i.imgur.com/yfVQquS.jpg

[BMWCurves]

I took the morning off yesterday and went hiking with my sister up Hamilton Mountain in the Columbia Gorge. We drove her 330Xi (her first real drive with the car) and she loved it. She had a smile on her face most of the drive. We haven't done any maintenance on it yet (still waiting on two ECS Tuning packages to arrive), but it still ran smoothly.

Only odd occurrence was on the way back a medium volume popping sound coming from the rear. The sound did not crop up on our 50 minute drive out the Gorge. It sounds like a speaker pop but it was random, and would happen even if the radio was off. Nothing was loose in the trunk, and whether she accelerated, or jabbed the brakes, or anything, it would happen. Steady state on the smooth highway road and it would pop. Really not sure what it is. Another thing to try and diagnose, but any ideas? It was tough to take a video, I may try again this weekend.

[san]

I had something similar happen when I did my shocks... When I checked, one of the strut mounts popped out and the top of the strut was basically not connected... It was a mistake on my part that it happened but maybe check strut mounts to be sure...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BMWCurves]

I had something similar happen when I did my shocks... When I checked, one of the strut mounts popped out and the top of the strut was basically not connected... It was a mistake on my part that it happened but maybe check strut mounts to be sure...

Suspension is one area I was considering. Seeing as the whole suspension will be refreshed, I'll find out soon enough.

[BMWCurves]

Mileage: 78,755

I swapped the Black Cube interior trim pieces the car came with for the used Silver Cube set purchased from rcwells. He did a really great job wrapping everything and all the pieces arrived as described. Removing the trim from the car wasn't too bad, the toughest piece was the one above the LCM. Once I had all the pieces out I removed the pins from the trim and installed them on the new trim. Since the trim pins are stuck in pretty good, I found it was easiest to use a vise grip to gain some leverage without adding stress to the trim itself. While I was at it I cleaned out the window switches with a toothpick and a damp towel. I reinstalled everything and I think the Silver Cube breaks up the interior a little better than the monotone black with the Black Cube.

Before:

http://i.imgur.com/faypG0u.jpg

After:

http://i.imgur.com/RkyiIRd.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/pAmnhDd.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ezoUfy9.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/QjNbg7e.jpg

[fw_fw]

Silver on black does look good!!

[fredo]

,
Silver on black does look good!!

+1. That's the best interior mod done to my ZHP ! On the outside, first prize goes to Khoalty lenses.

[Vas]

Did the car come from the factory with those gauges?

And factory m dead pedal ?

[BMWCurves]

Silver on black does look good!!

Agreed. I think it helps add a good accent, but both trims work well.

[BMWCurves]

Both ECS boxes arrived so we have all the parts. Now I just have to get the car back from my sister...

[Lublisha]

Both ECS boxes arrived so we have all the parts. Now I just have to get the car back from my sister...

What's all on the menu? or is it easier to ask what's not :biggrin

[slater]

Did the car come from the factory with those gauges?

And factory m dead pedal ?

gauges no, dead pedal yes. the dead pedal was part of the M Sport package - funny that the ZHP did not get those, or the M Sport door sills, which this car has too.

i put an M Sport dead pedal and door sills on my car (swapped them with the silver M Sport i had here for a while ;) ). they look great!

[BMWCurves]

Did the car come from the factory with those gauges?

And factory m dead pedal ?

Missed this. The gauge faces are not from the factory. The previous owner put them in to meet US DOT requirements because Canadian gauge faces only have kmh, no small mph markings. I think they might have come from Bimmian, not sure.

The ///M dead pedal did come from the factory. The M-Sport does have a few aesthetic frills that US ZHPs did not get apparently.


What's all on the menu? or is it easier to ask what's not :biggrin

Haha it's a lot. Check the original post, but short and simple pretty much everything I did to my car. Suspension refresh, all fluids, cooling system, belts, pulleys, spark plugs, air filters, etc.

[BMWCurves]

Did a few items today:

Replaced the spark plugs - Used NGK BKR6EQUP (x6). Had this DIY (http://www.bmw330ci.net/maintenance/valve.php) loaded up in case I forgot anything, but didn't really need it except for the torque specs. The plugs that came out were NGK, did some BMWs come with NGK plugs from the factory? I found oil around the spark plugs (above, not in the cylinder) in cylinders 3 and 6. Time for a valve cover gasket, and VANOS stuff while it's being done. What kits/parts do I need for VANOS and VCG stuff? EDIT: Asked in the random question thread and got responses here: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?11957-The-Random-E46-ZHP-Question-Thread&p=484708#post484708
Installed new cabin air filter - Used MANN (part no. 64319257504).
Installed three missing jack pads - Used BMW (part no. 51718268885). Not sure why or how the original jack pads went missing, but went ahead and replaced them. They snap into place and then you push a pin in to lock it into place. I couldn't get enough force with my thumb so I just used the jack to push the pin into place.
Wiped down the plastic covers and stuff around the housing while I had it apart. It's super dirty/dusty, I doubt it's ever been cleaned.
Installed new wiper blades - Used BMW Evo ones (part no. 61610037009).

Now I'm contemplating if I want to tackle the rear suspension. It's just swapping stock shocks with Konis and the rear shock mounts with Rogue Engineering ones. That'll probably be all I do today.

Pics

Jack pads:
http://i.imgur.com/mGN1DEl.jpg

Jack pad pin:
http://i.imgur.com/unGHJOb.jpg

Covers off:
http://i.imgur.com/dJJMg0F.jpg

Coil packs out, working to put new plugs in:
http://i.imgur.com/dIFL3ug.jpg

[BMWCurves]

Miles: 78,811 miles

No pics, but some more stuff:

Installed Koni Sport (yellow) rear shocks (8040-1343SPORT). I set them to 1/2 turn from soft. Hopefully that'll be sufficient for my sis. The shocks that came out were originals and pretty darn dead. They still had rebound, but very slow.
Installed Rogue Engineering rear shock mounts (RSMs). The driver's side was failing; it had a large gap between the mount and the car's body. I'm hoping that was the source of the weird popping sound.

It was interesting to see the differences between a coupe and sedan, especially in the shape of the trunk.

Used the following guides to assist with the install
Shocks:

Written guide with pictures: http://www.bmw330ci.net/projects/suspension.php
Video with instructions: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X5WrBZ8Fto0

RSMs:

Parts page: http://www.rogueengineering.com/mm5/...ategory_Code=S
Diagram 1: http://www.rogueengineering.com/mm5/...shock_asm1.gif
Diagram 2: http://www.rogueengineering.com/mm5/...shock_asm2.gif

My own thread on rear install: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?15714-William-s-330Ci-ZHP-Maintenance-and-Project-Thread&p=449113#post449113

[BMWCurves]

More stuff:

Removed all of the cooling system.
Removed the intake and replaced the air filter with a MANN air filter (13721744869).
Installed pulleys: AC pulley (INA) - 11287512758, idler pulley (INA) - 11287841228, tensioner pulley (INA) - 11281748131, and water pump pulley (BMW) - 11511436590.
Replaced belts: accessory belt (Continental) - 11281706545 / 11287636379, AC belt (Continental) - 11287512762.
Installed water pump (BMW) - 11517509985
Installed thermostat (ordered Mahle, came in a Mahle box, but was branded Behr) - 11537509227

Still to do:

Finish up cooling system
Refresh front struts
Change out fluids (differentials, oil, brake fluid, etc)

[Vas]

Did you replace just the pulley on the a/c tensioner OR the complete assembly?

[BMWCurves]

Did you replace just the pulley on the a/c tensioner OR the complete assembly?

Complete assembly. The old one had a lot of corrosion built up and the pulley itself was worn.

[san]

Did it fix the noise you were hearing from the rear of the car?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[slater]

Complete assembly. The old one had a lot of corrosion built up and the pulley itself was worn.

nice, i need to do this as well.

good work on the rest of the stuff, it feels good to help - especially when it's your sister! :) my sister visited us last summer with her 1993 toyota land cruiser (man, i want that thing!!), and i fixed a bunch of stuff for her that was non-op for years. she was so pumped. :)

[BMWCurves]

Did it fix the noise you were hearing from the rear of the car?

Not sure yet. But the diver's side rear shock mount was failing. There was a significant gap between the mount and the car's body. Sort of like this:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Kx3GWSgxFg

Hopefully swapping to new RSMs will help.


nice, i need to do this as well.

good work on the rest of the stuff, it feels good to help - especially when it's your sister! :) my sister visited us last summer with her 1993 toyota land cruiser (man, i want that thing!!), and i fixed a bunch of stuff for her that was non-op for years. she was so pumped. :)

Exactly. She wants to keep this car for ages so I'm trying to set her up.

[Vas]

Complete assembly. The old one had a lot of corrosion built up and the pulley itself was worn.

Best place for it? I was thinking of just doing the pulley but if its an INA part, might as well replace the complete assembly.

[BMWCurves]

Best place for it? I was thinking of just doing the pulley but if its an INA part, might as well replace the complete assembly.

I picked mine up from FCPEuro for $43 or so: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-a-c-belt-tensioner-11287512758

I have never heard of INA, but it's what came in my kit last year from Turner Motorsport for my car. Seems to have worked fine and at a good price.

[Vas]

I picked mine up from FCPEuro for $43 or so: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-a-c-belt-tensioner-11287512758

I have never heard of INA, but it's what came in my kit last year from Turner Motorsport for my car. Seems to have worked fine and at a good price.

INA is the same as BMW OE just without the BMW logo.

Good quality part? I do not really want to spend $100 on the part from the dealer.

[BMWCurves]

Yeah, it seems perfectly good to me. It's been in my car for a year with no issues.

[Vas]

Yeah, it seems perfectly good to me. It's been in my car for a year with no issues.

Our cars have the 4 rib version correct?

[BMWCurves]

4 rib version?

[BMWCurves]

Finished up the cooling system and buttoned everything back together, just needs to be bled. I'll do that tomorrow since I need a gallon of distilled water. This being my second cooling system overhaul I noticed it was harder to get the parts disassembled from the engine due to corrosion, time, heat expansion/contraction, etc, but was much easier to put back together with new parts than on my car. I think it might be due to more BMW parts than in mine. Not sure, but happy it did go together easily.

Installed:

Radiator (Behr) - 17119071518
Expansion tank (OEM) - 17117573781
Expansion tank cap (BMW) - 17137639023 (1.4 bar)
Expansion tank mounting clamp (BMW) - 17111707777
Upper radiator hose (Rein) - 17127510952
Lower radiator hose (BMW) - 11531436408
Coolant temperature sensor/auxiliary fan switch (BMW) - 13621433077
Coolant level sensor (BMW) - 17137553919
Hex bolt for water pump pulley (BMW, 4x) - 07119904524
Expansion tank mounting bracket (BMW) - 17111436250

Pics

Cooling system parts out:
http://i.imgur.com/r0bpW0e.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/bdWSOin.jpg

All buttoned back up:
http://i.imgur.com/SGUlRIZ.jpg

[BMWCurves]

Has anyone encountered swaybar endlinks that don't have a spot to put a wrench to stabilize the endlink bolt as you remove the bolt from the strut housing? On my car there was a spot, but on the 330Xi there isn't a spot for a wrench. It's completely round, so trying to remove the nut just spins the endlink bolt round and round without loosening it.

I'm genuinely stumped.

[Vas]

You sure? Try pull the boot back a little.

If not then vice grips.

[BMWCurves]

To be more specific, here is where a 17mm notch for a 17mm wrench ought to be, but it's completely round.

http://i.imgur.com/U8JIT3Z.jpg

[BMWCurves]

You sure? Try pull the boot back a little.

If not then vice grips.

Yup, I've pulled back the rubber boot and it's just more circular. The bolt itself has a 4mm hex at the end that I could stick an allen wrench or ratchet into, but I fear I'll just strip it when it comes time to put it all back together. Same thing with vice grips.

EDIT: Just tried vice grips, it's too tight in there to even get them properly oriented. The 330Xi has the housing rotated compared to our cars that have easier access to the housing.

[ELCID86]

Wow that sucks. Think it's stripped? Can you get an air wrench on it? Maybe it would have enough torque to spin the nut ?

Apply pressure to the link to push the thread against the hole ? :dunno

[san]

I had the same issue with my car, had to use tiny pliers...


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[Sockethead]

You usually have to use a really thin wrench to get in there. But you probably already know that...I had to grind down a 17mm open end.

If you find that it's rounded off when you finally remove it, I'd just replace it. I put one back on that was like that and was sorry I did when I had to remove it later...

[BMWCurves]

Wow that sucks. Think it's stripped? Can you get an air wrench on it? Maybe it would have enough torque to spin the nut ?

Apply pressure to the link to push the thread against the hole ? :dunno

I thought it might have been stripped but it is pretty darn round and minus a few tiny scratches that I think came from me, it looks smooth. I don't have an air wrench sadly (would love to have one), and I tried putting pressure on it but no luck. Even tried putting a clamp on it but it would only put pressure on one side and the bolt would still spin.


I had the same issue with my car, had to use tiny pliers...

Huh, I didn't have this problem on my car. I tried pliers but again, I'm not getting enough grip to do do anything meaningful. It doesn't help that the nut is a bit corroded/rusted onto the bolt.


You usually have to use a really thin wrench to get in there. But you probably already know that...I had to grind down a 17mm open end.

If you find that it's rounded off when you finally remove it, I'd just replace it. I put one back on that was like that and was sorry I did when I had to remove it later...

Yup, I'm using a somewhat narrow wrench but that's not the problem. I've pushed back the rubber boot so it's not in the way, there just isn't anything for the wrench to catch on. Tried different sized wrenches and spinning it to try and get it to catch on a notch I can't see, but no dice.

[BMWCurves]

Unrelated problem: I went to fill the cooling system with coolant and it only took about 1.5 gallons of water/coolant before it came out the bleeder screw (normal). But I turned on the car and let it warm up for probably about 10 minutes and the thermostat would not open up. The lower radiator hose is cold and when car sat at normal operating temp on the coolant temp gauge for several minutes, I finally turned it off. I let it cool for a bit and opened up the expansion tank cap and coolant came gushing out. I don't think the thermostat is opening properly. Am I being too impatient and should let it run longer? I don't want to overheat the car. I really should code the temperature gauge to be more accurate first.

[san]

Huh, I didn't have this problem on my car. I tried pliers but again, I'm not getting enough grip to do do anything meaningful. It doesn't help that the nut is a bit corroded/rusted
A friend of mine with a Zhp had the same issue as well, he recommended using a small plier... It wasn't easy and took a while but eventually I got it out...

[BMWCurves]

A friend of mine with a Zhp had the same issue as well, he recommended using a small plier... It wasn't easy and took a while but eventually I got it out...

Guess I'm weak, haha. How did he get any grip when he was putting it all back together and tightening that nut down?

[san]

It was a PITA, but was able to do it.. While putting it back once you tighten it a bit it's not too hard...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BMWCurves]

Hmm...I'll have to try again on Thursday. Tomorrow's shadowing for a new job and then a Timbers game in the evening :headbang

I did manage to recode the temperature gauge for a more accurate and useful gauge. Used the exact same setup as in my car:

I used my BMW Scanner and PASoft and I followed the guide here (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?12082-PA-SOFT-How-to-reprogram-our-temp-gauge&highlight=pasoft). I used the helpful hex generator by SilberVogel to visualize the values I wanted and generate the proper hex values. It can be downloaded here (Windows only): http://www.bmwpnpc.com/silbervogel/E46%20Temp%20Gauge%20Hex%20Generator.exe

I was a little confused by the instructions but I did as follows:

Plugged in the scanner to the OBD II port and then the laptop.
Turned on the car.
Opened up PASoft and scanned the car.
Opened up IKE, saved the EEPROM just in case.
Found line 0x340 and saw 06 0F 32. Edited those values to 06 14 41
Found line 0x350 and saw 4B 73 7D 8F 00 10 2D 2D. Edited those values to 5A 64 70 78 00 10 2D 2D.
Clicked write EEPROM and I was done.

The stock values were

06 0F 32 4B 73 7D 8F 00 10 2D 2D

Which corresponded to the values below:

http://i.imgur.com/nMxmMZP.png

I changed the values to

06 14 41 5A 64 70 78 00 10 2D 2D

Which corresponds to the values below:

http://i.imgur.com/Ezg1fNe.png

Source: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?15714-William-s-330Ci-ZHP-Maintenance-and-Project-Thread&p=448444#post448444

[Sockethead]

As far as your coolant problem goes, if the thermostat fails in our cars it stays in the open position so perhaps you needed to wait little longer...

[Vas]

Sounds like the thermostat has not opened yet. I had a similar issue so I drove the car around the block and the t-stat opened. Just keep an eye on the needle.

[BMWCurves]

As far as your coolant problem goes, if the thermostat fails in our cars it stays in the open position so perhaps you needed to wait little longer...

Sounds like the thermostat has not opened yet. I had a similar issue so I drove the car around the block and the t-stat opened. Just keep an eye on the needle.

That's a good point, I forgot that's how our thermostats function if they fail. I decided just before bed last night I'd do all the other maintenance (just fluids and those stupid struts left) and then take the car down off stands and drive it around to get the car to heat up quicker. Thanks for the advice.

[slater]

it should heat up if left idling long enough. i think it's about 10min. you've got the front end up in the air? also, you need to put the key in position 2, turn the HVAC heat on high, and lowest fan speed. this will engage the electric pump for the HVAC system and will allow you to bleed the car correctly.

re: the swaybar endlink - mine are 16mm and like rob sad, you need a thin wrench - i ground one of mine down as well. however, if there are no flats on the endlink, perhaps there is a a hex key provision in the shaft on the nut-side? i've seen that before too. depends on manufacturer.

[Cadeez]

also, you need to put the key in position 2, turn the HVAC heat on high, and lowest fan speed. this will engage the electric pump for the HVAC system and will allow you to bleed the car correctly.

This ^^

[BMWCurves]

Yup, I let the car sit (it's on jack stands) idling for about 10 mins with the HVAC on high heat and the lowest fan speed. I'll return to it last once I do the other fluid changes.

There is a 4mm hex in the endlink bolt, but it's somewhat corroded and I can tell I'll strip it if I kept going (I already have a bit).

[Sockethead]

Yup, I let the car sit (it's on jack stands) idling for about 10 mins with the HVAC on high heat and the lowest fan speed. I'll return to it last once I do the other fluid changes.

IDK, The several times I've had to bleed my system, I always had the car on the ground and it always bled first time....


There is a 4mm hex in the endlink bolt, but it's somewhat corroded and I can tell I'll strip it if I kept going (I already have a bit).
Worst case scenario, just chop it off with a sawzall. The end links are cheap enough...

[BMWCurves]

IDK, The several times I've had to bleed my system, I always had the car on the ground and it always bled first time....


Worst case scenario, just chop it off with a sawzall. The end links are cheap enough...

That's the same experience I had with my car when I did the cooling system overhaul. Who knows, but I'll drive it after I have everything else done and see what's up.

Really hope to not have to do that, but at the same time it might be necessary. I'll have to look into how much these endlinks cost.

[Sockethead]

I think I paid $17 last time I replaced one...

[BMWCurves]

I think I paid $17 last time I replaced one...

Damn, they're about $80 for the set from FCPEuro (part nos. 31356751079 [left], 31356751080 [right]).

Looking at higher-res photos from ECS shows they do not have a collar that fits a wrench on the back side. The Bentley manual doesn't have anything on the Xi models either. You must have to use a Torx bit to hold the end link still while loosening the nut, which would explain why it felt like I was stripping it with a 4mm allen wrench. I just figured it was all corrosion in there.

25489

[Sockethead]

Mine were OEM from the dealer. My wife works there,I guess that's how I got them so cheap... and that was several years ago.
They definitely have a place for the wrench on the back side, I had them off during the winter when I swapped out my shocks

[BMWCurves]

Mine were OEM from the dealer. My wife works there,I guess that's how I got them so cheap... and that was several years ago.
They definitely have a place for the wrench on the back side, I had them off during the winter when I swapped out my shocks

Where? I've pushed the rubber boot back to the second collar and that's round as well.

[slater]

Where? I've pushed the rubber boot back to the second collar and that's round as well.

that one you pictured above doesn't have one - gotta use the torx bit.

[Sockethead]

Where? I've pushed the rubber boot back to the second collar and that's round as well.

Sorry I wasn't clear... I meant the OEM ones on my car...

[BMWCurves]

Update: Mileage is the same (it's just been sitting in the garage on jack stands).

Did an oil change using 6 liters of BMW 5W-30 oil (83212365949). I had read previously online that the E46 Xi's require ~8 liters of oil but never thought to consult the owner's manual for capacities. The 330Xi only requires 6.2 liters according to the manual :facepalm At least we have two extra liters of oil for top ups and such. For the rest of the change I used a MANN oil filter kit that includes the filter (11427512300), the crush washer (07119963151), and the large o-ring for the oil filter housing (11421741000). I also changed out the two small green o-rings on the housing (11427549573).

Additionally, I managed to get the endlink free. Turning the wheel to the left gave me better access to the passenger wheel well. From there I used a T30 socket and a 16mm wrench to slowly but surely remove the endlink nut. The nut was very warm from friction by the time I got it removed. I'm now taking a break from removing the 19mm strut clamp bolt that secures it to the brake assembly. I sorely wish I had an air gun right now, I'm using a 1/2" breaker bar to slowly turn that bolt but I'm only 1/4 of the way done. F*ck you, rust.

[Johnmadd]

Update: Mileage is the same (it's just been sitting in the garage on jack stands).

Did an oil change using 6 liters of BMW 5W-30 oil (83212365949). I had read previously online that the E46 Xi's require ~8 liters of oil but never thought to consult the owner's manual for capacities. The 330Xi only requires 6.2 liters according to the manual :facepalm At least we have two extra liters of oil for top ups and such. For the rest of the change I used a MANN oil filter kit that includes the filter (11427512300), the crush washer (07119963151), and the large o-ring for the oil filter housing (11421741000). I also changed out the two small green o-rings on the housing (11427549573).

Additionally, I managed to get the endlink free. Turning the wheel to the left gave me better access to the passenger wheel well. From there I used a T30 socket and a 16mm wrench to slowly but surely remove the endlink nut. The nut was very warm from friction by the time I got it removed. I'm now taking a break from removing the 19mm strut clamp bolt that secures it to the brake assembly. I sorely wish I had an air gun right now, I'm using a 1/2" breaker bar to slowly turn that bolt but I'm only 1/4 of the way done. F*ck you, rust.

Put your jack handle or a long pipe over the handle of the rachet... trust me.

[Sockethead]

Put your jack handle or a long pipe over the handle of the rachet... trust me.

:thumbsup

Also, I believe the nuts on the end links are pinch nuts, they'll get pretty hot even when new by design

[BMWCurves]

Put your jack handle or a long pipe over the handle of the rachet... trust me.

Learned that technique when I worked briefly in at a mechanic's in high school. My favorite thing I witnessed there was one of the mechanics using a long pipe to wedge between the frame of the car and the engine of a Honda Odyssey or some other minivan so that he could gain access to the water pump which was on the side of the engine.


:thumbsup

Also, I believe the nuts on the end links are pinch nuts, they'll get pretty hot even when new by design

Ah, that would explain it.

Today was a successful day:

Fluids:
I drained and replaced the fluids in the transmission and rear differential. For the transmission I used 90% Red Line MTL and then about 10% Red Line D4 ATF because it's all I had left. I don't think the mixing will make much difference since a) it is a small amount and b) they're both recommended fluids for the transmission. For the rear differential I used Red Line 75W90, along with new crush washers for the drain and fill plugs (07119963355). No crush washers for the transmission.

Front suspension:
I also managed to remove the two front struts and replace them with Koni Sports (yellows, front right strut: 8741-1481RSPORT, front left strut: 8741-1481LSPORT). When I had the first strut out I struggled so much with the spring compressors that I broke down and bought an 8 Amp electric impact wrench. The good: this little guy is my new favorite tool. It is like magic and I am like motherfuckin' Gandalf wielding this thing. The bad: it managed to shear the head off the bolts on both of my crappy spring compressors. That was quite an unnerving experience (see: sudden decompression of the spring. That's why you always aim the spring perpendicular to you). They did have "CHINA" stamped on them so I can't really expect too much from them. But word to the wise: don't buy spring compressors where the bolt head is actually just a nut screwed on and then drilled through to hold it in place. Buy some that have a true bolt all the way down.

I bought some new spring compressors and they worked like a charm. I cruised through the rest of the front suspension refresh, replacing the struts, strut mounts (31336752735), strut mount dust caps (31331110196), and locking nuts for strut mounts/tower (31316769731). I planned to install the strut tower reinforcement plates (51717036781) my sister had purchased but once I got the strut out I realized the car already had them, and I suspect the car came with them since they were glued in place. I'll give them to my father to put in his car. Other interesting notes: unlike our ZHPs that use end links that have a 17mm notch to hold the end link still as you remove the nut with a wrench, the 330Xi end links have a T30 torx bit in the bolt of the end link that you use to hold it in place while using a 16mm wrench. I prefer the 17mm cut-out version, but with enough PB blaster and effort, I managed to remove both of them. My sister chose not to replace the spring pads, dust boots, or bump stops so those were reused.

Resources:

Written guide with pictures: http://www.bmw330ci.net/projects/suspension.php
Video with instructions: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGH_Bs84uk0 (although this replaces the struts with coilovers)
My own project thread: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?15714-William-s-330Ci-ZHP-Maintenance-and-Project-Thread&p=449192#post449192

So since purchase I have done the following maintenance:

Coded the temperature gauge to be more accurate with PA Soft.
Installed three missing jack pads (BMW, 51718268885)
Swapped the factory-optioned Black Cube Trim with Silver Cube Trim
Replaced the front suspension with new struts (Koni, 8741-1481RSPORT, 8741-1481LSPORT), strut mounts (Lemfoerder, 31336752735), strut mount dust caps (BMW, 31331110196), and locking nuts for strut mounts/tower (BMW, 31316769731)
Replaced the rear suspension with new shocks (Koni, 8040-1343SPORT) and new shock mounts (Rogue Engineering)
Drained and filled the rear differential with Red Line 75W90 oil and crush washers for the fill/drain plugs (BMW, 07119963355)
Drained and filled the transmission with 90% Red Line MTL and 10% Red Line D4 ATF
Cleaned the intake filter housing and replaced the filter (MANN, 64319257504)
Cleaned the air intake box and replaced the filter (MANN, 13721744869)
Replaced the spark plugs (NGK, 12120037607 / BKR6EQUP)
Installed new BMW Evo wiper blades (BMW, 61610037009)
Replaced the oil with 6+ quarts of BMW 5W-30 motor oil (BMW, 83212365946). Used a MANN oil filter kit that includes the filter (11427512300), the crush washer (07119963151), and the large o-ring for the oil filter housing (11421741000). Also replaced the two small green o-rings on the housing (BMW, 11427549573).
Replaced the pulleys: AC pulley (INA, 11287512758), idler pulley (INA, 11287841228), tensioner pulley (INA, 11281748131), and water pump pulley (BMW, 11511436590). Replaced bolts for water pump pulley (BMW, 07119904524)
Replaced the belts: accessory belt (Continental, 11281706545 / 11287636379) and AC belt (Continental, 11287512762)
Replaced the water pump (BMW, 11517509985)
Replaced the thermostat (ordered Mahle, came in a Mahle box, but was branded Behr, 11537509227)
Replaced the radiator (Behr, 17119071518)
Replaced the expansion tank (OEM supplier, 17117573781)
Replaced the expansion tank cap with a 1.4 bar E30 cap (BMW, 17137639023)/
Replaced the expansion tank mounting clamp (BMW, 17111707777)
Replaced the upper radiator hose (Rein, 17127510952)
Replaced the lower radiator hose (BMW, 11531436408)
Replaced the coolant temperature sensor/auxiliary fan switch (BMW, 13621433077)
Replaced the coolant level sensor (BMW, 17137553919)
Replaced the expansion tank mounting bracket (BMW, 17111436250)

Next up is to make an appointment with my mechanic to do the following:

Front control arm bushings (FCABs) (BMW, 31129063163) with 4 hex bolts (BMW, 33306760652)
Rear trailing arm bushings (RTABs) (Lemfoerder, 33326770817)
Brake fluid flush using Pentosin brake fluid
Front differential fluid flush w/ Redline 75W90 and crush washers (07119963355)
Transfer case flush w/ Redline D4 ATF and crush washers (07119963308)
Power steering fluid flush w/ Redline D4 ATF
Remove clutch delay valve (CDV)
Diagnose/replace trunk release button
Diagnose driver's side intermittent turn signal bulb out
Fix stuck sunshade
Adjust the parking brake
Diagnose O2 sensor codes
Diagnose passenger side headlight intermittent bulb out
Remove block heater

I was planning to do the transfer case and front differential flushes but didn't because a) I couldn't find good literature on it on either the internet or in the Bentley manual if there was something more complicated I needed to do and b) I'm lazy and don't want to do it. Pretty much the rest of the items above fall under reason b) I'm a lazy f*ck.

I do still need to drive the car around tomorrow to properly bleed the cooling system, check the suspension, and make sure the oil level is correct. As stated earlier, online sources said the 330Xis needed ~8 liters of oil, but the owner's manual said it needs even less than our cars at only 6.2 liters of oil. I guess that's due to one of the front half shafts going straight into the oil pan. I forgot to relocate the auxiliary input cable so I'll try and do that tomorrow. Other oddities: do ZHP sedan trunks have that little lockable cubby? My sister's car does not, it looks very similar on the left side to the right side that covers the battery. I'll try and post a pic later. Also, I did not know that the 330Xi came standard with M3 motor mounts. My guess is due to the added weight of the AWD system.

Sorry, no pics for the above repairs. My weekend was spent working and cursing various deities young and old in frustration (Zeus through Kanye West) so not much time was dedicated to pics. I may wash the car before I hand it off to the mechanic, in which case I'll take some more exterior photos.

[BMWCurves]

Got the car off jack stands last night and took it for a 30 minute drive today. Everything felt great. Screeching from the belts/pulleys is gone, car rides smoothly and pulls hard. I plugged in 19.7 to the onboard computer to see the water temperature readout and it read a steady 98C once it was up to operating temperature. I pulled over on the side of the road felt both radiator hoses and they were warm, indicating the thermostat was open and functioning.

I made an appointment with the mechanic and I'll drop it off sometime next week before our family vacation.

I also pulled out the radio to inspect the auxiliary input cable since my sister wanted it repositioned (it currently comes out below the steering column. Not the best spot). Turns out this auxiliary cable plugs directly into the radio, so it doesn't provide a good way to reposition the cable short of moving it to the glovebox or drilling a large hole somewhere to fit the 3.5mm end out of, neither of which are ideal. So in the end I talked my sis into the BMW auxiliary input cable (82110149389). Should be here by Wednesday for an install.

Pics:

Dirty car in dire need of a bath

http://i.imgur.com/c8dVv44.jpg

The trunk. Ignore the disarray, the battery is unplugged during the auxiliary cable stuff. Note the lack of the cubby/locker thing on the driver's side. Do sedan ZHPs have that cubby or does it look like this?

http://i.imgur.com/sT08Gmp.jpg

Current auxiliary cable input. Goes directly into the radio.

http://i.imgur.com/DQdGwj5.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/zWoOiDb.jpg

[Jconlin16]

I have the little cubby in my 03 sedan. That looks weird without one!

[BMWCurves]

I have the little cubby in my 03 sedan. That looks weird without one!

Right? I wonder if it's a Canadian thing, or maybe an Xi thing. Maybe Peter (slater) can chime in.

[Sockethead]

It's been a long time but I thought my aux jack plugged in like that too...

I put my Aux jack in the ashtray

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160426/7afad610effbfbe77228d7e909c91da7.jpg

[BMWCurves]

Oh I like that spot, Socket! Very cool.

Mileage: Forgot to check, but hasn't changed much.

Received the BMW auxiliary input cable (82110149389) today along with a 2 foot male-to-male 3.5mm cable. Spoke with my sister and she agreed she would like hers where I have mine, in the back left of the cup holder (aft and to the passenger side) for a handful of reasons:

It is relatively hidden away when the armrest is down.
If she stores her phone in the cup holder while it's plugged in the cord won't get in the way of the shifter.
The cord can be routed to the rear for passengers to play their music without getting in the way of the driver.
The cup holders are already pretty beat up so she can always replace them down the road and route the aux input mounting location elsewhere.

Installation was relatively easy, just took a fair amount of time fiddling with the cable to route it down through the radio area to the shifter and then cup holder area. It's a very small spot that the cable can fit through between the shifter and cup holder areas. I drilled out the cup holder and on the bench and installed the aux cable with the screw collar. Once I got it installed I connected it to the radio, plugged in the battery, and tested it for sound, which worked with no issues. I reinstalled the HVAC controller, trim, storage cubby, radio, etc et voila, all done!

http://i.imgur.com/WqWIe3J.jpg

[Sockethead]

Yea I have to use a 90°connector so it doesn't interfere with the shifter. I have the bimmian mount so my location works for me. Good idea about the back seat passengers access

[ELCID86]

Nice work!

[BMWCurves]

I dropped the car off at the mechanic yesterday. Hopefully everything goes smoothly.

[san]

For?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BMWCurves]

For?

The following:

Replace front control arm bushings (FCABs) (BMW, 31129063163) with new hex bolts (BMW, 4x 33306760652)
Replace rear trailing arm bushings (RTABs) using Z4M RTAB (Lemfoerder, 33326770817)
Brake fluid flush using Pentosin DOT4LV brake fluid
Remove clutch delay valve (CDV)
Front differential fluid flush w/ Redline 75W90 and crush washers (07119963355)
Transfer case flush w/ Redline D4 ATF and crush washers (07119963308)
Power steering fluid flush w/ Redline D4 ATF
Diagnose/replace trunk release button (believed to be button assembly since trunk will release with remote or the button under the dash)
Diagnose intermittent driver's side front turn signal bulb out
Fix stuck sunshade
Adjust the loose parking brake
Diagnose O2 sensor codes (replace O2 sensors if necessary)
Diagnose passenger side headlight intermittent bulb out
Remove block heater

[az3579]

Remove block heater



Block heater?? I thought that was only an option on diesel cars.

[san]

Block heater?? I thought that was only an option on diesel cars.

I believe block heaters are standard on all Canadian cars

[slater]

I believe block heaters are standard on all Canadian cars

nope. i've had 3 canadian-spec cars and not one has had one.

[BMWCurves]

Well, this one's got one. Big ol' plug sticking out the front that's routed to a metal square about 4x4" on the engine block.

[san]

nope. i've had 3 canadian-spec cars and not one has had one.

I thought one easy way of identifying a Canadian car is to check if it has a block heater... Maybe all of them don't have but it's an option or something?

[slater]

I thought one easy way of identifying a Canadian car is to check if it has a block heater... Maybe all of them don't have but it's an option or something?

contrary to popular belief, the terrain does not turn into arctic tundra and polar bears when you cross the border into canada. ;) (it's actually quite frightening how little americans know about canada... speaking as one of them... one of my relatives said to me, very seriously, upon hearing that i had moved to canada - "so, is it hard to communicate up there, since everyone speaks french?" really? reeeeally?? man....like, reeeeeeeallly?!? OK...... rant over. ;))

i'm sure the block heater is an option in the US too - it's colder in vermont where i grew up than where i live in canada now.

[san]

contrary to popular belief, the terrain does not turn into arctic tundra and polar bears when you cross the border into canada. ;) (it's actually quite frightening how little americans know about canada... speaking as one of them... one of my relatives said to me, very seriously, upon hearing that i had moved to canada - "so, is it hard to communicate up there, since everyone speaks french?" really? reeeeally?? man....like, reeeeeeeallly?!? OK...... rant over. ;))

i'm sure the block heater is an option in the US too - it's colder in vermont where i grew up than where i live in canada now.

Rofl

Gotcha, thanks for clarifying :thumbsup

[az3579]

i'm sure the block heater is an option in the US too - it's colder in vermont where i grew up than where i live in canada now.

Seriously doubt that. The U.S. didn't get many options to choose from compared to other parts of the world. A block heater wouldn't be one of the few. Maybe special order if an individual begged to the right people. lol

Sent from my LG V10 on Tapatalk

[slater]

Seriously doubt that. The U.S. didn't get many options to choose from compared to other parts of the world. A block heater wouldn't be one of the few. Maybe special order if an individual begged to the right people. lol

Sent from my LG V10 on Tapatalk

prove it! :cheers

[az3579]

prove it! :cheers

Burden of proof is on you, my friend. :rofl

[slater]

Burden of proof is on you, my friend. :rofl

LOL!!! :)

[johnrando]

I know a lot about Canada. Moose; take off hoser, eh?; mounties; space shuttle arm; beer. That bout right? :biggrin

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[BMWCurves]

My sis has had the car back for a while now and I spoke with her tonight about it. She's liking it a lot and hasn't noticed the rough cold start that my mechanic found and could not solve (ended up cleaning the injectors and a myriad of other things in pursuit of the issue) but had an issue with tramlining on the highway last weekend. She might need a new alignment. She's also running some tires I've never heard of, so she might be due for some new ones.

[Sockethead]

I would suspect the tires especially if they are getting worn or are mismatched. Also, certain brands just seem to tramline on these cars.

[BMWCurves]

I would suspect the tires especially if they are getting worn or are mismatched. Also, certain brands just seem to tramline on these cars.

That's my feeling. As I said, they're just some weird cheap brand of tire so I suggest she switch them to something else.

Also realized last night that her right headlight washer cap is missing. She should order one (61677066848) or try to find one used from a part out car.

[Sockethead]

Try to find one the same color at the junk yard. if you buy a new one, you'll have to get it painted

[BMWCurves]

Try to find one the same color at the junk yard. if you buy a new one, you'll have to get it painted

Yup. Sadly, I leave in two weeks and won't be around to look around for my sister, and she doesn't have any time with her job.

[BMWCurves]

Car crossed 80,429 miles and still humming along nicely, according to my sister. The undercarriage cover (part no 51718265985) is still not mounted and is missing the mounting hardware, which I need to figure out. RealOEM isn't too helpful oddly enough. It shows the clips, but has grayed out the actual bolts/screws.

[Sockethead]

I have a whole bag of clips somewhere, let me know if you need some...

[holyc0w]

I wonder if these are the same screws:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=EV53-USA-10-2003-E46-BMW-330i&diagId=51_4456#07146981767

[webster]

Updates?

[BMWCurves]

Updates?

I've checked in with my sister but she's a busy bee so haven't heard too much. Currently though:

There was some concern with a check engine light coming on. As far as I recall it had to do with a misfire code although my sis says it ran smoothly. Not sure how that turned out. There was some talk of a minor leaking head gasket, but who knows
She lost one of hear headlamp washer covers so I bought her a pair off of a part out car. Not sure if she installed it.
She has a Bimmian Bracket and a magnet cell phone mount that I'll help install when I get home.

That's all I know for now. I plan to have a more complete update when I'm home.

[BMWCurves]

Tried to initiate the driver's side airbag recall through two local dealers but the car is still listed as Canadian in BMW NA's system so I started the ball rolling on getting a letter of compliance so that they could complete any and all recalls here in the US.

[slater]

Tried to initiate the driver's side airbag recall through two local dealers but the car is still listed as Canadian in BMW NA's system so I started the ball rolling on getting a letter of compliance so that they could complete any and all recalls here in the US.

nice. BMW was super responsive on getting that done for spenser and i - i had a copy of the letter emailed to me within hours, if i remember correctly!

[BMWCurves]

nice. BMW was super responsive on getting that done for spenser and i - i had a copy of the letter emailed to me within hours, if i remember correctly!

That's much faster than what the customer relations agent told me, something around 10 business days. Still, nice to know it wasn't difficult for you guys, so hopefully it'll be the same for my sis.

[BMWCurves]

Mileage: 85,750 miles

Not a lot of updates that I'm aware of, but my sister left town for the weekend for a college reunion, so it was a good time to change the oil. Changed with 6L of BMW 5W-30 and MANN oil filter kit (with large o-ring and crush washer).

She's moving to Chicago for a year and will probably leave this car behind. She plans to take her 2000 Jetta instead and use it as a no-fucks-given snow beater. It may become my father's snow car while she is away.

Other observations:

A few weeks ago I installed the headlight washer cover I had bought her so the car doesn't look as much in shambles.
I don't recall when, but the Bimmian mount with the Wiz Gear magnetic cell phone mount was installed.
There is no high fast constant wiper speed. There's "intermittent on" with adjustable rate, then "intermittent on," "constant on," and "constant on." The second "constant on" is the same speed as the previous constant on, but it would be the rapid on for our cars. I'm not sure why that is, but it doesn't seem safe.
My sister had mentioned an intermittent bulb out on the front driver's side turn signal, but when I went to replace it, the bulb refused to come out. Closer inspection showed that the fitting for the bulb has the slots for the bulb nubs to be 180 degrees, while the bulb nubs themselves were less than 180 degrees. The bulb number is correct, so the housing must be wrong. Anyone know the part number for a bulb with numbs spaced 180 degrees apart? I inspected the other side and it's a different color and the bulb housing is canted correctly, so somewhere along the line one of the turn signal housings got replaced with a not 100% car-correct part.
The shifter sits up higher than in our cars. I assume that's a function of the transfer case or some aspect of the AWD system taking up extra space
The engine seems to rev faster than my car - I have difficulty rev matching compared to my car because heel-and-toe'ing shoots the revs way past where I need to be. Did 330Xi's get a lightweight flywheel or something?
The speakers will pop every so often when starting the car. My guess is the battery is due to be replaced. I haven't inspected how old it is yet.

[az3579]

The bulbs with nubs 180 degrees apart are 1156 / 7506. The turn signal housings don't care what kind of bulb, but the bulb itself must have been replaced with the incorrect part. The car should have 1156 / 7506 sockets as being proper equipment.

[Sockethead]

Possibilities for your observations...
The non ZHP shifter knobs are longer than the ZHP
Final drive ratio my be higher than the ZHP's 3.07 making it rev faster

[slater]

Possibilities for your observations...
The non ZHP shifter knobs are longer than the ZHP
Final drive ratio my be higher than the ZHP's 3.07 making it rev faster

he mentioned rev-matching though... nothing to do with the final drive.

you're definitely on the right track with the shifter - the M3-style knobs (which i believe he's got on that canadian car) are super tall. the shift lever itself could be taller as well.

[BMWCurves]

The bulbs with nubs 180 degrees apart are 1156 / 7506. The turn signal housings don't care what kind of bulb, but the bulb itself must have been replaced with the incorrect part. The car should have 1156 / 7506 sockets as being proper equipment.

Perfect, I'll go scoop one of those.

And yeah, whoever replaced the housing jammed the canted/offset bulbs into the socket with 180 degree slots. It would not remove and I had to pop open the socket and bend it a bit to get out the old bulb.


Possibilities for your observations...
The non ZHP shifter knobs are longer than the ZHP
Final drive ratio my be higher than the ZHP's 3.07 making it rev faster

It has a ZHP shift knob. It came with one, but it was worn has since been replaced.

I'm not sure what the final drive ratio is, but it's a non-ZHP and is a 5-speed so probably different, 2.93?


he mentioned rev-matching though... nothing to do with the final drive.

you're definitely on the right track with the shifter - the M3-style knobs (which i believe he's got on that canadian car) are super tall. the shift lever itself could be taller as well.

Precisely, I'm not sure what's causing the rev-matching difference.

And I think the shifter neck itself is taller. I'll try and take pics tomorrow for some context.

[BMWCurves]

Gave the car a bath. I think the last time it was washed Carter was when Bush was in the White House...during his first term. It's going to need a serious paint correction to get it looking good again.

I also tried replacing with a 1156 bulb but it still has a bulb out indicator so it's the wiring...somewhere. Fudge.

[az3579]

Gave the car a bath. I think the last time it was washed Carter was when Bush was in the White House...during his first term. It's going to need a serious paint correction to get it looking good again.

I also tried replacing with a 1156 bulb but it still has a bulb out indicator so it's the wiring...somewhere. Fudge.


Does the bulb socket have corrosion in it somewhere? If in doubt, swap the bulb socket with the other side to see if the issue follows. If not, then you probably do have an issue with the wiring.

[danewilson77]

Omg bro.... So sorry.

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[BMWCurves]

Omg bro.... So sorry.

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Thanks, Dane.

It's just a car, but sad to see it go. Thankfully no one was hurt, and the fire didn't start while someone was driving the car down the road.

[Vas]

Dang man.

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[ZHPizza]

What the frick

[az3579]

Damn. Sounding like an LCM fire to me... I've heard of it happening a few times.

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[fredo]

This sucks big time. Good to hear everyone is ok.

[san]

Damn. Glad no one got hurt...


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[ELCID86]

Wow William. Glad it was ‘just’ the car and no one else. Insurance coverage?

[BMWCurves]

I accidentally deleted a post, but regardless, my brother in law is figuring out the next steps.

Real shame since no one would expect this at all, but again, glad no one was hurt.

[johnrando]

Yup

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[san]

Any updates?


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[BMWCurves]

None that I've heard.