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View Full Version : Oil pan gasket: who has done it and how?



Sockethead
05-20-2016, 07:20 PM
I had my splash pan off the other day and my oil pan gasket is leaking pretty bad so it looks like it's time... I thought I remember reading that some folks here have done this but my memory isn't what it used to be. Kristen mentioned to some of the techs at her dealership that I was going to do this and they were like OMG he's going to do that on his garage floor! Then I thought I remember someone here saying it's not that bad? Looks pretty involved to me...

Vas
05-21-2016, 03:35 AM
I have done it in my driveway on jack stands. It's not too terrible and I plan on doing this job again on the wife's zhp.

What concerns do you have?

ELCID86
05-21-2016, 04:26 AM
Doesn't seem too daunting (and Vas doesn't even have a garage!). I'm confident Rob could do it given his wrenching prowess.

Sockethead
05-21-2016, 04:58 AM
I haven't really researched the procedure. Vas, can you give me a quick rundown/overview?
There isn't anything in the DIY section on this...

Vas
05-21-2016, 05:16 AM
Yeah sure. Going of memory here.

You need an engine brace that goes across the bay to support the engine. I made one out of 2x4 so it's kinda ghetto but it did work. Then support the engine on the front using a chain. There is a point right at the front for this. I used the chain to hook to the engine and the wrapped it around the cross bar.

Then the fun part of removing things begins.

Drain oil, disconnect oil level sensor at bottom of the pan, remove main engine belt, remove to the side the power steering pump, remove the bottom nuts that hold the engine mounts to the subframe, remove the sway bar from the subframe (I left it connected to the endlinks) then remove the bolts that hold the front subframe to the body (support it with a jack) them slowly lower the subframe down.

I did not disconnect the steering coupler or the tie rods. Some people say you need to but I was able to avoid this.

Then remove the bolts holding the oil pan and slide it out towards the back of the car.

Pretty sure that is all to removing it going back together it's easier.

Reason you need to lower the subframe a little is for the oil pan to slide back.

It sounds like a terrible job but it's really not.

I also replaced the engine mounts at this time since it is easy.

Sockethead
05-21-2016, 07:14 AM
Ok thanks! That doesn't sound too, too bad ;)
Do you remember if you had easy access to the oil pump/oil pump sprocket? I'm probably going to install the VAC sprocket and shaft while I have it apart as long as don't have to take off the whole front of the motor...
Yea I'm going to do the engine mounts too. At 141k, they gotta be shot.
You know I have the Bentley manual but it seems 50% of the time there is an easier/faster way to do it. That's why I always try to find a DIY before doing anything

Vas
05-21-2016, 07:58 AM
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160521/70b46be53398484545aad9db30a282de.jpg


http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160521/ed82fc3ed3ae14f3a4c4f90aa257a2af.jpg

Vas
05-21-2016, 08:01 AM
Ok thanks! That doesn't sound too, too bad ;)
Do you remember if you had easy access to the oil pump/oil pump sprocket? I'm probably going to install the VAC sprocket and shaft while I have it apart as long as don't have to take off the whole front of the motor...
Yea I'm going to do the engine mounts too. At 141k, they gotta be shot.
You know I have the Bentley manual but it seems 50% of the time there is an easier/faster way to do it. That's why I always try to find a DIY before doing anything

Posted some pics.

Yeah the oil pump and sprocket was easy to see.

I thought about the vac products but didn't see the benefits

Sockethead
05-21-2016, 08:35 AM
Ok tnx for the pics. Did you remove the harmonic balancer?

Vas
05-21-2016, 09:22 AM
I did not.

Sockethead
05-21-2016, 10:27 AM
Ok cool...one less special tool I need

rkneeshaw
05-22-2016, 04:13 PM
Good idea to do the VAC shaft while you're in there, just that much more piece of mind if you rag on the car ;)

Sockethead
05-22-2016, 05:07 PM
Good idea to do the VAC shaft while you're in there, just that much more piece of mind if you rag on the car ;)

Exactly and I run it pretty hard too.

The GSR 4 4bolt shaft is the ultimate oil pump shaft fix but probably overkill for a non track car:

http://www.bimmerworld.com/Oil_PumpShaft_WM.jpg

Vas
05-22-2016, 05:25 PM
How much is the vac shaft? Maybe do the oil pan Baffle as well?

Sockethead
05-22-2016, 05:52 PM
Shaft/sprocket is 199.95. You need a press to install it or you can send the whole pump to them and they'll do it for another $100
baffle is $179.. It's all in their spece46 catalog

ZHPizza
06-16-2019, 10:29 AM
Bringing this shit back from the dead to see if you went through with the baffle and sprocket shaft install. I've been looking at them all morning and am trying to set aside a weekend to do this job because I did not like the sound of my engine after starving it of oil during autocross runs.

Edit: my b I see it now in your Tapatalk bio or signature or whatever shows up when I click your name. I'll try to find your build thread and dig through that.

Sockethead
06-16-2019, 12:36 PM
I ended up going with the Achilles Motorsports oil pump. I liked their solution better.

ZHPizza
06-20-2019, 06:31 AM
I ended up going with the Achilles Motorsports oil pump. I liked their solution better.Alright I read through your thread and dig around for more feedback on the baffle, but couldn't find shit for the M54 (mostly e36 guys). Did you ever do an autocross since installing the baffle?

I'm leaning towards the Achilles baffle and pump shaft as they appear to be the best options - just want to make sure that'll be enough to keep the oil at the sump during an autocross

Sockethead
06-20-2019, 06:56 AM
I used the VAC baffle. I liked it because it had a couple one way “doors” in the bottom; oil can flow into the pickup tube but can’t flow out when taking sharp turns.
Whatever solution you use, you’ll have to have it welded in place. You also need to remove the OEM baffle plate. If I remember correctly, you just grind off the aluminum rivets holding it in place.

ZHPizza
06-20-2019, 07:11 AM
Yep! That's the way the Achilles baffle works too - same design - just seems to fit a little more consistently than the VAC.

I'm just trying to find anyone that has actually tested a baffle on an M54 - VAC/Achilles/whatever

I know your project kind of snowballed right into the supercharger and you just recently got your tune right with that, so I'm guessing you still haven't had a chance to put the baffle to the test

Sockethead
06-20-2019, 11:07 AM
Yea my car is still a work in progress: tune still sucks, swapped the end muffler with a Borla high flow and lost 2 lbs of boost and 20 hp somewhere, still trying to figure that one out.
With the twins, sometimes my car sits for months at a time untouched.
Before kids, I’d wonder how people on those car shows could park their cars in the garage and forgot about them for 20 years. Now I know...