DeathTrap's Blue ZHP Sedan

[DeathTrap]

Welcome to my maintenance thread! This is my first venture into BMW land. I've always feared owning one of these machines because of the rumors and what I now know to be false information plastered all over the internet. I came from a 1992 Honda Accord that was unfortunately stolen from me and I needed a car to replace it with. I was and still am in love with the simple and timeless styling and the driving feel of that car. I know most of you are probably rolling your eyes now...*pfft driving feel* but that car is really underrated. Don't argue with me on that.

I figured if I am going to replace that car, I need it to be something very similar, but with more potential to help me develop as a performance driver and as a car enthusiast. I went through the typical Honda replacement cars. Accord V6 6 speed, very nice commuter but nothing special about it. Acura TSX, pretty dry as a stock car. A slower car than the v6 Accord. Wasn't interested in too many other brands. I then decide to look at BMWs. I made the mistake and test drove a beautiful silver E39 540i/6. GOD THAT CAR IS THE SH....but then I go on the internets. "Your valley pan gasket will go!" "The timing chain will eat itself!" Blah, blah.

That kind of scared me off, so I went to 3 series land. Didn't want an E9X because the styling just doesn't go well with me. E46 was the next step in my price range at the time. It had the enthusiast following and support, which was a big deal because all the problems had been documented and pretty much solved. I didn't see anything involving tearing the front or top of the engine off for preventative maintenance or repair. (Now I'm probably confident enough to do that, but at the time I wasn't!) I see this blue 330i for sale at a dealer. I also had no idea what a ZHP was. I just thought it had a nice bumper and wheels. I bought it, and started down the rabbit hole of neglected BMW ownership...which you can observe as I comb through everything in this thread.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4829/31844669558_aa206eba92_z.jpg

This is going to be the start of my restoration, maintenance and modification thread. I'm typing this on my phone so stay tuned. [emoji16]

Sent using VTEC, yo

[rguti153]

the damn pics at yo

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[Johnmadd]

This is going to be the start of my restoration, maintenance and modification thread. I'm typing this on my phone so stay tuned. [emoji16]

Sent using VTEC, yo

Your TT sig is great!

[Johnmadd]

the damn pics at yo

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:rofl

[ZacharyMikel]

the damn pics at yo

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[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

[cakM3]

Pics?????? :foottap

[rguti153]

deathtrap u killing me where the damn pics at yo

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[derbo]

I'm waiting for him to hit VTEC 6500RPM then I guess all the pics will come flooring through?

[danewilson77]

:rofl

S7 Edge, out

[rguti153]

I'm waiting for him to hit VTEC 6500RPM then I guess all the pics will come flooring through?
lol

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[DeathTrap]

I'm waiting for him to hit VTEC 6500RPM then I guess all the pics will come flooring through?
Exactly! And by VTEC you mean laptop...which is in storage and I'll be busy for a while so chew on these for a minute gentlemen:
http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv264/cnafets_sol/E46%20Log/20160621_132753_zpsicshihgj.jpg
http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv264/cnafets_sol/E46%20Log/20160610_171807_zpsbaalludf.jpg
http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv264/cnafets_sol/E46%20Log/20160621_132824_zpsxsflprrz.jpg
http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv264/cnafets_sol/E46%20Log/20160621_133334_zpssfsmhcf4.jpg
http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv264/cnafets_sol/20160621_133604_zpsjssysjt2.jpg


Edit: first expense = tires. Ouch. I'll be picking up a set tomorrow. Nitto Motivo. A pretty good all season tire. I'll rock these until I pay the car off and some more bills down and it'll give me time to do more PM. She has three mismatched tire brands...She was unloved at one point in time. Probably the PO trying to save a buck or two. I don't blame him/her either. This first year is going to be painful lol.
Sent using VTEC, yo

[FL116]

I remember seeing this online for sale. Nice! Looks cool. :thumbsup

[ikeupinya]

Which blue color is that???

[az3579]

I cannot begin to explain to you how jealous I am of you having an Estoril Blue ZHP. Estoril is my favorite color of all time ... man.

Something is ever so slightly off with the color, but they did a pretty damn good job getting it very very close.

[derbo]

I cannot begin to explain to you how jealous I am of you having an Estoril Blue ZHP. Estoril is my favorite color of all time ... man.

Something is ever so slightly off with the color, but they did a pretty damn good job getting it very very close.

You must be salvidating right now haha


-Sent from Mobile

[slater]

I cannot begin to explain to you how jealous I am of you having an Estoril Blue ZHP. Estoril is my favorite color of all time ... man.

Something is ever so slightly off with the color, but they did a pretty damn good job getting it very very close.

yeah, it's a bit more 'electric' than true estoril... which i am looking at right now. ;)

[FL116]

yeah, it's a bit more 'electric' than true estoril... which i am looking at right now. ;)

+1

[az3579]

yeah, it's a bit more 'electric' than true estoril... which i am looking at right now. ;)

Electric is a bit darker than Estoril, at least looking at pictures of newer cars. But, the shade is ever so slightly off with this car, though it does look strikingly similar to Estoril. The paint on this car is probably also a lot newer than your Estoril coupe and not a factory coat as well, which may be attributing to the differences in shade.

[DeathTrap]

http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv264/cnafets_sol/E46%20Log/20160622_132339_zpsrpb40mct.jpg
Tire success. Next is lifetime alignments from firestone. I'll be doing tons of suspension stuff so this will save me $100s

My OFHG is leaking so I will be attempting to tackle that and an oil change next weekend. Then I will start collecting commonly failed parts and gradually do PM.

I have found that Dawn makes a heavy duty degreaser. Has anyone tried it? Looks like it has multiple uses auto, home, boat. Plane, spaceship etc.

Sent using VTEC, yo

[johnrando]

Nice. Ofhg not hard at all. Not sure about Dawn, had not used nor heard.

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[DeathTrap]

I'll check it out and give a review.

Alignment was done last week, I have a bent LCA and a few more questionable things that need to be checked. I plan on doing a full suspension refresh and upgrade next year so I'm not too worried about it. The current LCA will be replaced with a stock part. The numbers are in this thread:
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?18592-Alignment-Result-Interpretation&p=497150

I need to make a maintenance spreadsheet. I have feeling the first years are going to be the worst lol. Made my first ECS Tuning purchase:http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv264/cnafets_sol/E46%20Log/ECS%20Tuning%20166-451-260_zpsthogwt1l.png
Everything should be here soon. I'll need a few torx (external and internal) bits for sure, but I don't think this is a bad start at all!

[BMWCurves]

I need to make a maintenance spreadsheet. I have feeling the first years are going to be the worst lol.

If you need a decent template, you can use mine which I think is pretty decent:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1FxNwXifRlsq9j-OIw7nWl3a8YZmFbclU6MyeNZkj5rI/copy

[DeathTrap]

If you need a decent template, you can use mine which I think is pretty decent:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1FxNwXifRlsq9j-OIw7nWl3a8YZmFbclU6MyeNZkj5rI/copy
That's damn nice. You put some work into it! I shall use it, it is much appreciated.

Zee items:
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160713/5e47cea0404c41952a91226e20f5edd0.jpg


Sent using VTEC, yo

[BMWCurves]

Good luck, let us know how it goes!

[DeathTrap]

Looks like a leak. I tried to clean everything. I know it's not as good as Larry (Ammo NYC) but it works.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160716/5b8bfca81f3dcd1e9d897c4a78c534fb.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160716/73dfc419a0b5636c6013570ee3bccc81.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160716/63decf20c719ec5b0dbac23bf36aa25c.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160716/f113276fc8f6a6cb9543d7537d80e74e.jpg

Now my oil light flickers at idle. That's another can of worms to deal with.
*takes deep breath and dives in*

Sent using VTEC, yo

[DeathTrap]

And forgot this one. The whole process was not bad at all. I found out the cabin filter is non-existent and the alternator has been replaced at one point with an aftermarket. Probably Duralast/AutoZone.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160716/7c75cbedf3eb97689d966648484fd8df.jpg

As far as my red oil light flicker, here are some observations:
Only does it when oil is hot.
Flickers at idle sporadically if left alone, or with a quick throttle blip.
The idle doesn't feel as smooth as it should, like there is a bit of a miss going on.
There is some hesitation when the throttle is blipped.
I have a P2240 code.
There is a rattle when the engine is started and when turned off. VANOS?
I have the stumble at 2800 rpm. DME update?

I'm letting the car sit, to check for leaks then I'll do an oil change and report back.


Sent using VTEC, yo

[DeathTrap]

Installed DISA Kit. The stock one was in very good condition surprisingly.
Installed GAS 1.2 Bar Cap. Coolant temps have not gone above 205 F in the hottest of Atlanta weather and traffic.
Purchased VANOS Seal Kit

No more oil light flicker after the oil change and a few hundred miles of driving.

For the P2240 SES.
The STFT on bank 2 is -0.78%
The LTFT is -3.91%
Bank 1 is -2.34% for both. I do want to replace the O2 sensor(s), but are there any other conditions that would cause these numbers?

[johnrando]

Nice!

[DeathTrap]

I haven't updated this thread in while.


http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv264/cnafets_sol/E46%20Log/20161116_192450_zpsevabse2a.jpg
I finished my cooling system refresh today with the Stewart WP "upgrade". It is a nice piece, but I don't think it will be functionally any better than the stock pump.

http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv264/cnafets_sol/E46%20Log/20161116_192609_zpsjc7eat5l.jpg
NSK Bearing!!!


http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv264/cnafets_sol/E46%20Log/20161119_215637_zpsw51ewj88.jpg
http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv264/cnafets_sol/E46%20Log/32fdc81f-0687-44c0-bba3-b8f338a2307d_zpshv5f86n0.jpg
http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv264/cnafets_sol/E46%20Log/20161119_215529_zpsmsptbqn6.jpg
At 145k+, the OEM WP still looked and felt great from the impeller side. The pulley side was corroded to hell.

http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv264/cnafets_sol/E46%20Log/20161116_190715_zpstbdlx8ja.jpg
The expansion tank and the top radiator hose had previously been replaced, but I could not put a date or mileage on it so I didn't take any chances. The expansion tank from FCPEuro is definitely OEM...I mean why else would there be a scratched off BMW logo?


Also refreshed my belts and pulleys as they were starting to become noisy. The tensioner was replaced since I was in there. The plastic OEM pulley is solid...I don't know why people complain so much about it.

During the process, I found that my exhaust cam position sensor was not bolted down(!?). I grabbed a bolt from my Honda bolt stash and quickly rectified the situation. (No Pics)

http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv264/cnafets_sol/E46%20Log/20161119_164546_zpsqrgarmxj.jpg
Green coolant was in the system...ewwwww. That was replaced with good ole OEM stuff.

http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv264/cnafets_sol/E46%20Log/20161119_152917_zpsygdfiwld.jpg
And done! I need to go ahead an re-sleeve those wires by the oil filter housing and solenoid. It's starting to make me uncomfortable. I do feel confident that cooling parts should last 200k+ miles, especially with the reduced pressure from the GAS cap. If not...lifetime warranty will cover it.

Next on the list:
http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv264/cnafets_sol/E46%20Log/20161113_191607_zpsquoscsml.jpg
And probably an M56 valve cover swap. My oil is disappearing by the quart.

[johnrando]

Nice werk.

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[WOLFN8TR]

Nice! [emoji106]

[DeathTrap]

Thanks guys!
Update,

The car has been running somewhat trouble free after the cooling system overhaul. I got a P2240 SES code today, so it's probably time to replace all the O2 sensors at 154xxx miles AND I still think I need the DME updated. There is vibration at highway speeds. I'm wondering if that is a tire issue or something else.

My wife has stolen the car from me, she loves it actually lol, and I'm stuck driving the Accord which I don't mind because of the v6 and three pedals. It still feels 'soft' compared to the ZHP...anyway let me make a small list here of things that need to be done this summer.

4x O2 sensors
DME update (jerking at 2800ish rpm + P2240)
Trans fluid
Diff Fluid
Fuel Filter
M56 valve cover (oil consumption, plus I like metal valve covers)

[nextelbuddy]

are you in Georgia? if so where at?

[ELCID86]

Nice list. Perhaps just do the pre-cat sensors? :dunno


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - anonymous E46 fanatic

[DeathTrap]

are you in Georgia? if so where at?
I'm in the Atlanta area, off of the 285 Cascade Rd exit.


Nice list. Perhaps just do the pre-cat sensors? :dunno


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - anonymous E46 fanatic

Thanks! I thought that exact thing when I saw the O2 sensor prices.

[BADCLOWN]

Is this car wrapped/repainted? I don't think the color questions were ever addressed

[704sw]

Is this car wrapped/repainted? I don't think the color questions were ever addressed

I'm assuming it was Titan Silver originally, based on the strut tower picture.

[Sockethead]

Definitely just do Pre-cat O2 sensors. The post-cat sensors just monitor the cats. If they were bad, you get a different trouble code

[DeathTrap]

It is definitely repainted, with plenty of paint chips. Looks good from about 25 feet away, but the closer you get, the more paint chips you see.

Pre-cats only. Headers may be in my future, so I'll put the saved money in the fun jar.

Sent using VTEC, yo

[DeathTrap]

Last week I did a valve cover gasket and VANOS repair. This was my first time taking the valve cover off of this car. She looks good under her skirt. The valve cover itself may have seen better days. The old valve cover gasket was still flexible and in ok shape. The spark plug tube gaskets turned into plastic and was the reason I decided to go ahead and tackle this one.

The CCV tube was so stiff and dry, I was afraid it would break if I moved it the wrong way. I would prefer to replace it with the M56 cover but the GAS CCV system is really shiny and pretty lol. I don't know how the two systems would interact. I'll hold out for some member reviews first.

The VANOS definitely needed this fix. It had more play than a box of puppies. The rattle kit really tightened things up in there. The seals here also turned into plastic.

And here's a pic of my H23a that will be getting a refresh and some bolt ons. It's going into a Prelude and takes up most of my money.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170527/75067f0ef4109d64d7db5830bd305bc2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170527/f6f3cf996d833c80246629973f47b66c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170527/926b2b409104eedd746a2f5be494684c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170527/1df82b78d7ee9db5855103d25740207f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170527/f3c0c6ababec338873743afa96c15698.jpg

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[DeathTrap]

Greeting gents...

I hate this car...sometimes.

I have a crack in my wheel that slowly leaks air in my driver's side rear tire. Ugh...I added some JB Weld to hopefully reduce the leakage while I either buy new wheels or find a replacement set.

There is a local guy selling 2 rear Style 135s and is asking $100. I would have to reuse my current rubbers, but if they are straight, true and crack-less then I would kill two birds with one stone since my opposite side 135 is slightly bent.

There is another guy selling 4 front 18x8.5 Style 67s that are finished in white. I think it would be a very nice contrast with the blue color, at least in my head. He is asking $600. New tires, but they are 225/45. I don't want to go that small with my tires.

My third option is to pray that the JB Weld holds up while I find some lightweight 17s to daily with. I have a fetish for big meaty tires. 245/45/17 would give me a lot of options, plus a square setup, but then I would have to buy new tires.

I really don't want to spend much money at this point in time, so option 1 is looking promising.

Other than that, I have performed the 02 Pilot mod and halved my oil consumption rate. My CCV is most likely dead. I would love to buy G.A.S. CCV, versus new wheels, but I have yet to see any reviews on that.

I also got my airbag recall completed.

My exhaust hanger that connects to the trans rusted out and started rattling, so I deleted it. Speaking of exhaust, there's another local guy selling a Corsa exhaust for $500.

I'm close to 170k and still on the original suspension. lol Can you all believe that?? That's gotta be taken care of really soon. One of the M3forum members has my Vincebar. Hopefully I can pick that up soon and that's when I'll do my rear end refresh at minimum.

$$$ is going to be spent and slow progress shall be made. I signed up for this so I have to get it done.

[Vas]

Greeting gents...

I hate this car...sometimes.

I have a crack in my wheel that slowly leaks air in my driver's side rear tire. Ugh...I added some JB Weld to hopefully reduce the leakage while I either buy new wheels or find a replacement set.

There is a local guy selling 2 rear Style 135s and is asking $100. I would have to reuse my current rubbers, but if they are straight, true and crack-less then I would kill two birds with one stone since my opposite side 135 is slightly bent.

There is another guy selling 4 front 18x8.5 Style 67s that are finished in white. I think it would be a very nice contrast with the blue color, at least in my head. He is asking $600. New tires, but they are 225/45. I don't want to go that small with my tires.

My third option is to pray that the JB Weld holds up while I find some lightweight 17s to daily with. I have a fetish for big meaty tires. 245/45/17 would give me a lot of options, plus a square setup, but then I would have to buy new tires.

I really don't want to spend much money at this point in time, so option 1 is looking promising.

Other than that, I have performed the 02 Pilot mod and halved my oil consumption rate. My CCV is most likely dead. I would love to buy G.A.S. CCV, versus new wheels, but I have yet to see any reviews on that.

I also got my airbag recall completed.

My exhaust hanger that connects to the trans rusted out and started rattling, so I deleted it. Speaking of exhaust, there's another local guy selling a Corsa exhaust for $500.

I'm close to 170k and still on the original suspension. lol Can you all believe that?? That's gotta be taken care of really soon. One of the M3forum members has my Vincebar. Hopefully I can pick that up soon and that's when I'll do my rear end refresh at minimum.

$$$ is going to be spent and slow progress shall be made. I signed up for this so I have to get it done.Details on the course exhaust ?

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[DeathTrap]

Details on the course exhaust ?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using TapatalkFull header-back high flow stainless exhaust for 330, Zhp etc.
A little tarnished, but in good condition.
Separates into 3 parts for shipping if preferred.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170726/ace76254e9b0233d42dd236c2928e898.jpg

Edit: He is asking $580. He may take $500.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[DeathTrap]

Picshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170726/f0ac0bb49cfe3f6cee7e4f9aa0e07300.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170726/ef0473c04e7a26a352be6fd5bdaff5cf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170726/a5f27df2f00188fb73e08c09a2ac41cb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170726/bada751c4537a1dd8dd22b0931c2dc38.jpg

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[theothersawyer]

You work at Panasonic in Peachtree City?

[DeathTrap]

You work at Panasonic in Peachtree City?Yes sir!

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[theothersawyer]

I work across the street at Scholle IPN and eat lunch at Panasonic with my friend everyday. Saw your car in the parking lot the other day. Love the color!

[Sockethead]

Rear 135s for $100 is definitely worth it. If that falls through, why not get the wheels repaired? I had two of the same cracks in one of my rear 135s and the other was bent. Got them both fixed and the welds help up for the life of the wheel

[DeathTrap]

I work across the street at Scholle IPN and eat lunch at Panasonic with my friend everyday. Saw your car in the parking lot the other day. Love the color!
Thank you! I believe you're the Imola I saw turning down 54 one day. Very clean machine you have there.


Rear 135s for $100 is definitely worth it. If that falls through, why not get the wheels repaired? I had two of the same cracks in one of my rear 135s and the other was bent. Got them both fixed and the welds help up for the life of the wheel

That was going to be option number 4 if it didn't come out to be too costly. I know Discount Tire's bent rim repair estimate was around $140.

The JB Weld looks to be holding up. This morning I was at about 30 psi. I checked it a few minutes ago and I'm still around 30 psi. Temporary success! :headbang

[johnrando]

Good news.

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[DeathTrap]

At the tire place... I got a whole set of black painted w/ chips Style 135s for $200. Great!

I get to the tire place. One front and one rear have run flat damage. I'm going to replace them all with continental contact for $400. Booooo!! The lesson here is to never ever let these tires go even a little flat. I will be switching to a square set of 17s very soon.

F these pretty wheels.

I've spent about $1500 in tires in less than a year. Hopefully things will start to level out now

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[DeathTrap]

Not bad. I think I like the black wheels! With some re touching, they would look pretty good. And I have a full sized spare. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170805/b4f57f448d5a32c7eec36ad71fa9bcb4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170805/2c691fc48a1d25aa76f573fb7741037e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170805/249d4225fcee2f2f03da2c06df8c5dd3.jpg

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[DeathTrap]

Today, something hit my windshield on the interstate. All I heard was a loud bang and two little cracks appear. I can't get a break with this car, pun intended. I'd be a bit more upset if this wasn't a dailyhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170815/618cf7dcb9f4c7a104cd42826d7450fa.jpg

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[BMWCurves]

Oof, sorry. That's never fun to have to deal with.

[ZHPizza]

Car looks good tho. That's fo sho.

[DeathTrap]

Car looks good tho. That's fo sho.

Thanks! I was in your neck of the woods last week. My wife and I took a trip to Charlotte and Asheville for a little vacation.

More good news!

My alternator went out. Not surprised as it was a POS Autozone unit. Really just a matter of time before it took a dump. I have one on the way from FCP Euro right now.

<Story>
So here is how my day went on Wednesday evening. I proceed to return to my car after a solid days work to enjoy some good ole South Atlanta highway driving. Starter cranks over, engine fires up, oil light goes off, battery light does not. Uh oh, what's this about? Turn the car off and back on again like a cell phone, hoping the problem would go away...nope, still there. I drive around the parking lot at work, the light is still on. I open the hood, check the belt, connectors, even tap on the rectifiers a bit. Nothing.

I text my wife that she may need to pick me up. I proceed to connect my scan tool to my phone so I can monitor my batt voltage during my 29.1 mile drive home. I started at 11.9 volts and ended up at 11.7, according to the scan tool. A successful limp home! I proceeded to remove the alternator...had to have been one of the second easiest things I've done on this car, probably second to filling the windshield fluid reservoir.

With alternator in hand, I head to the nearest friendly auto parts store to run some tests. "Oh sir, I can't find a connector that fits your part." I'm thinking in my head, why the hell not? I eventually said let's just get the part...two to three alternators later we realize that something is amiss. We found out the hard way that BMW likes to do strange things sometimes, like put plastic coolant expansion tanks in their vehicles. Anyway, my Bosch alternator has the two pin oval connector. Luckily, I brought the part with me or I'm sure I would have assumed that all 330i alternators were the same part and had the same connector. We find the part number to cross-reference their stock and their are none, zero, nada to be found in the state of Georgia and he would have to order it. I told him I may be back if the next friendly auto parts store didn't have it.

Store #2, the lady at the register was super confident that they had the part in stock....until we opened the box, make that two boxes, that were the rectangular pin style alts. Damn it...so no one has this alt locally, might as well order it online. Enter FCPEuro, with a few swift clicks and a quite painful choice of 1 day shipping my search was done.

Oh, I forgot to mention that the locking tab on the harness side of the 2 pin connector broke while I was removing it. I'm thinking about grabbing a whole engine harness from PAP here, and reconditioning it.
</Story>

Now the ZHP is at the house on the trickle charger waiting for me to install the new alt, and a new oil pressure sensor that I ordered with it. I'm having a random red oil light flickering at idle, or if I blip the throttle quickly it will flicker sometimes. I'm going to go ahead and replace this part first. If it still flickers, I'll have to throw a gauge on there.

EDIT: Looking at my sig quote now...so funny

[DeathTrap]

Oof, sorry. That's never fun to have to deal with.

I added some windshield repair resin from Wal-Mart. It sucked, but it did conceal it a bit.

[DeathTrap]

I added some windshield repair resin from Wal-Mart. It sucked, but it did conceal it a bit.Pics are truely representative of the fixhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170901/ee0745bb91a9a20d54341beef858f055.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170901/253ad8601e004c1df81898facc79d7d6.jpg

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[DeathTrap]

Decided to get off my ass and do something constructive. RX350 projectors with lowered shield, low beam only because it was cheap. Also swapped headlights. The driver's side was damaged. The light output is way better than the burned ZKWs. I expect even more once I replace the 15 year old xenon bulbs.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171219/3f813dc41ab58908fd46daaf708768ad.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171219/0f5b3cee33c2a875c355cdee95dcf556.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171219/70147bbb857808ae9549d4ab95d8593c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171219/d1f406b310d35556064747ee07c50049.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171219/63d026fdc1d027627f46678a7f61035a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171219/eed259f734bd2d16cb1b0d374fa8072d.jpg

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[DeathTrap]

Haven't been in here in a while! A few more maintenance things have been completed. It feels like it never ends, but I know that the list is getting smaller...hopefully.

Air filter, fuel filter(original with over 170k miles :eek), steering coupler, FCABs, GAS CCV, key fob battery, trans and diff fluid.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1817/43275421924_3a366ede32_z.jpg
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/936/42184973760_4d5b8d7a08_z.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1840/43275406214_d4b977b4a8_z.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1837/42184974920_ca762c36da_z.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1835/43275406984_a86a7f93c4_z.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1777/42184975390_b252640b09_z.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1833/43275407674_5e038a1776_z.jpg

Whew, I still have a few more items in inventory that need to be done. P/S fluid and resevoir, VANOS hose, oil pressure switch, window regulators and sound deadening. I'm also considering removing the unnecessarily dark tint that this car came with and replacing it with something more legal...

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/939/43088741225_a6062f4d7e_z.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1795/42185150260_d41d7a3e9c_z.jpg

[johnrando]

Good stuff!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[DeathTrap]

Replaced my 15 year old VANOS hose today. Yuck. I'll post pictures of it soon.
Also replaced the oil pressure sensor. Still have the flickering oil pressure light at idle. Hooked up my gauge and hot idle pressure was around 12 psi. My idle RPM was around high 600s to low 700, so I probably still have a leak somewhere. Actually I know I have a leak somewhere as I have positive fuel trims. One thing at a time.

I also decided to rip my trunk lining out in preparation for sound deadening the trunk. I think I found out why this car was painted blue. On the CARFAX, it did indicate that the car was in an accident or 2...maybe three. Behind the passenger side trunk carpet, the quarter panel is black which indicates that it has been replaced. It would also explain the little rust bubble forming as there was poor sealing present between the new panel and the chassis. That accident would ALSO explain why my right rear control arm is/was bent. The shock also looked like it puked its guts as well. Sounds like some good excuses to make some upgrades to me!

I guess there is no point in trying to keep this thing as clean and OEM as possible. She's already been through a lot. I might as well do what needs to be done and properly mod this car. :mad:mad

[Sockethead]

Lol, sounds like a plan!
FYI, my rear control arm was bent and my car was never in an accident... that's what happens when the control arms are basically made of sheet metal. Time for an upgrade. Or if you do want to keep it as stock as possible, they make reinforcement kits for the stock control arms, involves welding though...

[johnrando]

Bmr. But, on with the mods!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[DeathTrap]

Pretty old! Not bad honestly. It stood up to about 15 years of use without puking.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1865/43502841595_178ec10284_z.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1842/29473517967_ece50240a6_z.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1855/43502844265_b6959b4343_z.jpg

After replacing the hose and the oil pressure sensor, I was still getting a flickering oil light. I connected a mechanical gauge to verify the hot, idle oil pressure was above 7 psi which it was. No major oiling issues.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1878/43502831745_1bbf4ae415_z.jpg

Alright, off to the trunk area. This is the passenger's side. It's safe to assume that it got smacked here in a past life.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1869/43693634364_bbb13be46d_z.jpg

The opposite side for comparison.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1861/44361410882_cd461deae8_z.jpg

Close up of the spot welds used to attach the panel.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1874/43693633194_8a0611863a_z.jpg

OEM spot welds, obviously done with a resistive spot welder
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1885/44361409192_22df0f44b2_z.jpg

This shock is shot. Guts are everywhere!
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1893/43693631584_18dc7b236f_z.jpg

Driver's side is clean. Not much to see here.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1846/44361406822_063131bb9c_z.jpg

Bonus! There is a screw holding the bumper up...classy.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1894/44361404412_fe361da627_z.jpg

The part that hurts is if you look closely, when the new panel was installed, it was not sealed at the area where it meets that little ledge section. There is a rust bubble forming on the outside at about the same location where I'm guess water and other contaminants had a nice little party.

[DeathTrap]

I remember this thread I read on the forums that went something along the lines of: "You're going to pay +10k for this car, no matter if you purchase it for 10k or 5k."

I now see that is true. I have done over 50 maintenance things and *still(!)* have more to go. Luckily I can DIY or this would be a very painful ownership experience. I promised myself I would never buy a modded car again, but this car is damn near stock down to the original 16 year old parts. That's really funny to me. :rofl There is light at the end of the tunnel as they say.

Transmission mounts were replaced with some UUC black mounts. Shifting instantly became crisper. The shifter stopped torquing to the right during 1st gear take-offs. The original mounts were about as supportive as memory foam. Oil pan gasket, OEM motor mounts and a few other odds and ends have been ordered. I have been dreading this, but it must be done. Ughhhhhh.

I also bought the Camry RTABs, and am waiting on the tool rental from Vas but there is a storm headed his way so I'd prefer for him and his family to consider their safety first. RTABs aren't that deep.

I'll probably grab some new PS lines, ya know...since I'm going down the rabbit hole anyway.

[johnrando]

Dive on in! :)

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[DeathTrap]

Just collecting a few parts.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1927/44218066314_b665ff001a_z.jpg

[DeathTrap]

Success!
<Insert Pictures Here Later>

Over the weekend I replaced about 10 things:
Motor Mounts: Completely shot
Oil Pan Gasket: Awful
All Power Steering Lines: Actually only one was truly bad, but ya know...WYAIT
Power steering reservoir: Uneventful
PS fluid: *gag*
Oil pump pickup tube oring: Was beginning to turn into plastic
Oil pump regulator oring, spring, and that plastic part: because WYAIT
Clean old oil residue off.
Fill engine with Rotella T6

Whew. And the only issue I had was me being lazy and not removing the headlight to take off the top power steering pressure hose line. You guessed it, I cracked the brittle plastic release clip. ugh. Luckily with a curved pick, I was able to bend the locking tabs out of the way and slide the hose off no problem. That was the only hiccup. Everything else was smooth.

My hands were oily, so I apologize for the lack of pictures.

[ZHPizza]

Wow. Sounds like all the work that @704sw needs to do. Took like, two hours, right?

[DeathTrap]

Nah, took about 3. I had to stop for lunch.

[DeathTrap]

My rear carpets are wet from when I washed my car. I'll probably be back inside my door panels soon. If I have to replace my vapor barriers, I'm not going to use the OEM foam insulation. Instead, I'll use thick plastic sheeting/clear vinyl and butyl rope for vapor protection. $44 a door be damned!

But wait, there's more!
If you've been following this thread, you know that I installed sound deadening onto the outer skin of the door. It really solidified the door feel. This type of sound deadening is NOT a replacement for the foam style OEM vapor barrier. It only stops panel resonance. Let's discuss the other levels below.

The next level after controlling the panel resonance would be to add some type of thermal insulation:
https://store.secondskinaudio.com/heat-wave-pro-4-x-6-24-sq-feet-thermal-insulation-radiant-barrier-made-in-usa/
This should be attached to the outer door skin and should help with maintaining the interior temperature of the car. After working inside the door panel, I noticed that there is significant heat radiated into the interior from the door cavity and outer door skin. Hopefully this will reduce that.

After controlling the temperature, we still need an acoustic blocker of some sort. That's where these two come in to play:
https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/mass-loaded-vinyl-mlv
https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/closed-cell-foam-ccf
Ideally, they'll prevent noise from entering the cabin through the doors of the vehicle.

New tree clips, and trim holder clips.

I should lube up the regulators, clean the window tracks and lube those up as well since I didn't do that the last time.

I might remove the window glass and strip that 5% tint off too.

From left to right:
Thermal block (thermal insulation), closed cell foam (used for decoupling and rattle prevention), MLV (the acoustic barrier)
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1905/31564432178_79568a3116_z.jpg

[Sockethead]

I was going to tell you to check the seal on the sunroof but it looks like you don't have one?

[DeathTrap]

I do have a sunroof. I'll double check the drains and seals. They should be in decent condition as this only started happening after I replaced my regulators. Coincidence?

[Sockethead]

Mine started leaking and it was a bad seal on the sunroof... that's why I mentioned...

[DeathTrap]

Everyone's favorite tool! The headlight was removed to grant easier access to the P/S lines.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1913/44524633045_0676e4d3b7_z.jpg

This was my view for a few:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1930/44524632925_d6830a8ac3_z.jpg

Then there was this. Again, not bad for 180k miles and 16 years:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1957/44524632795_94528ab198_z.jpg

Money Shot!:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1929/44524632565_5840323bb2_z.jpg

Pump nut still good:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1940/44524630695_326f5aa67e_z.jpg

Replaced this o-ring:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1927/44524632205_0c70f6e33a_z.jpg

And the one under here:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1915/44524631975_476a4c5261_z.jpg

Eventually, I got to this point:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1945/31564431868_f8573334ec_z.jpg

I think I broke my dipstick. I know I poured over 7 liters of oil in this thing and it still reads halfway on the dipstick...whatever, I'll keep an eye on it.

[johnrando]

Nice! Hope the dipstick thing works out.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[ZHPizza]

Nice work. I swear the dipstick on these cars is useless. Mine reads dead in the middle even if I'm low enough to set the oil sensor light off.

[az3579]

I think I broke my dipstick. I know I poured over 7 liters of oil in this thing and it still reads halfway on the dipstick...whatever, I'll keep an eye on it.

The Bentley says capacity for RWD cars is 6.9 liters, but I've seen 7.5 referenced elsewhere. The extra bit is probably because of the oil filter taking some oil as well. I don't think the listed crankcase capacity accounts for the filter despite saying so, because 6.9 liters is never enough for my oil changes.


Nice work. I swear the dipstick on these cars is useless. Mine reads dead in the middle even if I'm low enough to set the oil sensor light off.

When are you reading your oil level, cold or hot engine? The manual says to read the oil level about 5 minutes after shutting the car off (engine warm). I used to check it when cold before seeing that. It's also possible your sensor isn't quite working properly.

Exerpt:

Checking the oil level
1.Park the vehicle on a level surface
2.Switch the engine off after it has reached normal operating temperature
3.After approx. 5 minutes, pull the dipstick out and wipe it off with a clean lint-free cloth, paper towel, or similar material
4.Carefully push the dipstick all the way into the guide tube and pull it out again
5.The oil level should be between the two marks on the dipstick.

[ZHPizza]

The capacity is 7.5 liters, so... pour another half liter and you'll be all set.



When are you reading your oil level? The manual says to read the oil level about 5 minutes after shutting the car off (engine warm). I used to check it when cold before seeing that.I'm reading it when hot, cold, sexually aroused, everything. It always reads the same and I ended up replacing my oil level sensor because it kept tripping even though the dipstick read fine. Then I drained out like 5L on the next oil change. Whoops.

[az3579]

I'm reading it when hot, cold, sexually aroused, everything.

Well shit, you have me convinced I'm doing it wrong now. I should try that next time.

[DeathTrap]

That escalated quickly...

I did this in between light rain. Everything started off fine, unscrewing easily.
Me: Great! this will take 10 minutes, tops.
Car: O RLy??
Apparently this rubber gasket got caught in the threads making it a pain in the ass to unscrew by hand. I got a little creative.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1973/31581084288_8d4d623f2c_z.jpg

Pic of spring and said rubber gasket:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1958/44731275574_c5a3d6b4bc_z.jpg

Not much of a difference for cold start rattle, maybe a little bit more quiet? Meh. The biggest benefit is getting rid of that gasket and replacing it with a crush washer.

[DeathTrap]

First attempt at trying to update the DME failed gloriously...but I didn't brick it so I can live to fight again...next weekend.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1905/45540089502_bd5111f4fa_z.jpg

Just for giggles, I've spent about $3400 in parts, not including tires, so far. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel! Once I do the suspension and body work, she will be sorted.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1944/44865699814_8dbdde509a_c.jpg

The largest costs were replacing all the window regulators and the GAS CCV system. I'm sure I could've cheaped out, but that really isn't a good feeling for me.

[johnrando]

Yup, no need to cheap out if you don't need to

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[DeathTrap]

Got this puppy during one of the eBay sales!
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4841/45665742362_e6c1a1dd86_c.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4903/31844667598_a8cdce107a_c.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1947/43898910970_e9891d0586_c.jpg

The M56 CCV seems to work well, unfortunately, I will have to delete it because of the GAS CCV system.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4843/44991703294_130da58c25_c.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1972/43898909460_610040d691_c.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4812/43898908500_15b633922d_c.jpg

I'll get to the wheels, eventually...
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4829/31844669558_aa206eba92_c.jpg

[DeathTrap]

Problem #1. I am going to contact GAS to see if I can get another one of these machined down to the ID of the M56.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4865/31846365178_f9fe64d30a_c.jpg

[ZHPizza]

Wait why are you changing to the M56 valve cover with the GAS ccv kit?

[DeathTrap]

For even moar CCVness!!

But seriously, I prefer the aluminum valve cover over the plastic one. It goes with my goal of making the car bulletproof. Even if I don't keep her forever, I hope the next owner will appreciate it.

Plus, my old valve cover is chipped in some places and needs to be replaced anyway. It would be nice if I can get this to work though.

[Sockethead]

Why not take it to a local machine shop and have it turned down? That would only take a few minutes on a lathe...

[ZHPizza]

For even moar CCVness!!

But seriously, I prefer the aluminum valve cover over the plastic one. It goes with my goal of making the car bulletproof. Even if I don't keep her forever, I hope the next owner will appreciate it.

Plus, my old valve cover is chipped in some places and needs to be replaced anyway. It would be nice if I can get this to work though.

I mean if you're already going with an M56 valve cover then you'd probably be better off cleaning out the CCV on the M56 cover and selling the G.A.S. kit. Really no reason to have both.

[DeathTrap]

I can't use both. I already contacted G.A.S. about it previously and they said one system had to be defeated.

I personally like the design and enginerding of the G.A.S. system. I'd much rather keep it as expensive engine bay bling.

That said, I'm going to defeat the M56 CCV and use it as a standard aluminum valve cover...Plus this:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1956/44827876035_a14ed32b95_b.jpg

A brushed aluminum look should be nice, at least in my head, without being too over the top like a full polish. I like the industrial look.

[Sockethead]

If you're going to brush that, I'd like to see the finished product... the only thing that has stopped me form getting that valve cover it's not very pretty...

[ZHPizza]

If you're going to brush that, I'd like to see the finished product... the only thing that has stopped me form getting that valve cover it's not very pretty...

Truth! There's really no hiding its uglyness if you want to use a strut tower bar too. The M56 beauty cover is a monster that will fit under no bars that I've found. Whatevs. I don't go to meets and open my hood for all the shawties to see my billet dipstick.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181106/35525785ab94c73689bb316727f5edac.jpg

[DeathTrap]

Nice short throw dipstick brah.
I'm thinking a nice little carbon fiber/kevlar cover for the coils and the injectors should be enough to clean up the wires.

Anyway, heard some creaking noises from the rear passenger side today on the way home. Gotta keep an ear out for that again, or I could just go ahead replace the shocks at least which I know have to be bad with almost 200k on them. I probably should do an OEM refresh first so I can have a baseline of how this car performed from the factory before I start throwing random aftermarket and performance parts at it.

[Sockethead]

I probably should do an OEM refresh first so I can have a baseline of how this car performed from the factory before I start throwing random aftermarket and performance parts at it.

That would be a good idea. When I got my car with only 44k on it, it was the best handling car I had driven to that point.
It’s a fine line between enhanced handling and annoying

[DeathTrap]

Did brakes this past weekend. Picture vomit warning.
Brakes pads and rotors are from BrakeYourSelf.com. Decided to give him a shot. I got a pretty good deal at the time. Unknown brand rotors and pads, but we'll see what they can do once they fully break in. My shocks can be compressed by lightly pushing up on them. I plan to fully refresh my suspension next year including all bushings.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4902/31039125937_d128c09a8f_z.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4895/45977884331_ecc0643e27_z.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4866/44112101980_80c1bb7d40_z.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4849/45977876971_0c319f8bba_z.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4912/45977877451_cd9fff573e_z.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4901/31039027357_6229d40f03_z.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4822/44161844420_33b79bbeab_z.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4878/44161847350_d5afee1459_z.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4809/44161845460_15a9a77b6c_z.jpg

I didn't install the braided lines because I didn't want to go through the process of bleeding. I'm guessing everyone here uses a power bleeder? Should I do the 2 man method or is the power bleeder *really* worth it??

[Sockethead]

Power bleeder is definitely worth it IMO. Especially if you plan in doing your scheduled brake fluid flushes yourself... Plus , don't have to yell "press, release" a hundred times to the person pushing on the pedal :)

[DeathTrap]

Hindsight...probably should've washed the wheel wells. I usually do, but slipped my mind this time.

Some more pics:

Look at the lip on that brake rotor!
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4828/31039026117_3b8e2bde12_c.jpg

Here's a pic of the undercarriage a few weeks after the oil pan gasket job.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4845/45977875541_80598c1335_c.jpg

I also reflashed my DME to the most recent SW.The most satisfying message:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4898/45122475625_ca4fa6e2e9_c.jpg

Used a cheapie "20A" eBay charger. Worked good enuff:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4905/46059836372_e27f818969_c.jpg

His and hers:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4806/32238478458_2b3a58372f_c.jpg

Also crossed 190k!!
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4891/45198333975_823a602b21_c.jpg

Cyber Friday shopping netted me one of these:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4837/32238477268_cff405d99a_c.jpg

[danewilson77]

Hindsight...probably should've washed the wheel wells. I usually do, but slipped my mind this time.

Some more pics:

Look at the lip on that brake rotor!
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4828/31039026117_3b8e2bde12_c.jpg

Here's a pic of the undercarriage a few weeks after the oil pan gasket job.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4845/45977875541_80598c1335_c.jpg

I also reflashed my DME to the most recent SW.The most satisfying message:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4898/45122475625_ca4fa6e2e9_c.jpg

Used a cheapie "20A" eBay charger. Worked good enuff:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4905/46059836372_e27f818969_c.jpg

His and hers:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4806/32238478458_2b3a58372f_c.jpg

Also crossed 190k!!
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4891/45198333975_823a602b21_c.jpg

Cyber Friday shopping netted me one of these:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4837/32238477268_cff405d99a_c.jpgVery nice

Sent from my Note 9 using Tapatalk

[DeathTrap]

Thanks Boss.

More werk:

Took the McD sweet tea out of the brake lines
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4816/32280983518_0723e3a683_c.jpg

Also took this out:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4898/32280983538_e365992d25_c.jpg

And these...oh wait, those are important:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4891/45240114895_88dd6f567b_c.jpg

They were replaced:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4825/45428527444_50620aff07_c.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4914/45240118345_174499baf2_c.jpg

[DeathTrap]

Grabbed some O2 sensor logs:

Sensor response at idle:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4826/46315473061_a90ffe49c7_c.jpg

Sensor response at 2krpm:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4914/46265162742_a524848b62_c.jpg

Sensor response with varying throttle inputs:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4913/46315473031_8c2c15435a_c.jpg

Like I posted in another thread, it looks like I'll be doing a cat replacement...or headers...or both.

[DeathTrap]

I just ran up my credit card bill for this car...it hurt a lot. Sigh...HUGE maintenance/WYAIT update in the future.

The mechanicals WILL be sorted after all is said and done. Then I can focus on the exterior and interior condition.

Happy freaking New Year :rolleyes :help :mad

[BMWCurves]

Looking forward to hearing everything you got done.

[johnrando]

You'll be so happy when it's done. All worth it.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[DeathTrap]

3 piece shipment from FCP came in on Wed...seriously thinking about posting updates on YouTube since I'm almost at my upload limit on Flickr. It's the only social media platform that I haven't tried out. Plus they need more ZHP content :devilish

Also a special package coming from europartsonline... heh heh heh
(Edit: they bumped the price of the GEN3 up $70, $455 to $525)

Good timing too, because my car just threw a brick of codes at me:
P0306
P0420 (mmmmm 420)
P0430

I'm hoping the LC-2 will play nicely and make the car great again, we will see in the very near future.

[DeathTrap]

I did end up starting a YouTube channel...it's very easy to tell that I'm a noob at this. I'm trying to find my groove with it. Just takes time I guess. Things that have happened since my last update are as follows:

130 lbs of parts from FCP
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4904/33089417578_aa32075c6c.jpg https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7927/33089417498_324a7f6bb9.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4886/46912804902_7f1654b31b.jpg

Everyone's favorite light:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4863/46964750961_abe93237a5.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4889/32023902117_5b07c18800.jpg

Joined BMWCCA:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7907/46912801542_beace5132a.jpg

Started replacing things, preventatively...
Shocks:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4898/32023905257_7dafe72958.jpg https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7855/46912803552_66eb0bc8aa.jpg

Struts:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7819/46912802002_bfb8499be2.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4895/32023901887_be30c4e758.jpg

Bought some headers, going to get them ceramic coated this summer. Jet-Hot quoted me $300(!):
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7911/46912804162_0acaed5ef8.jpg https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7899/46912804232_e45fc1e706.jpghttps://farm8.staticflickr.com/7870/32023906927_63432bf96c.jpg

Got a clutch stop:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7817/32023906467_1f6a9262fc.jpg

And got some tools, because I don't like headaches:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4817/46912803382_5007c5c36c.jpg

[DeathTrap]

And that last post ate up all of my Flickr allowance. You can catch the rest of my updates on

IG: SoufsidePerformance
YouTube: SoufsidePerformance

I'll only update this thread with major updates.

[johnrando]

Good stuff

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[DeathTrap]

Coolant flush done. 194k
Drain old kool-aid, run prestone flush for 3-4 days, rinse with distilled water, fill with new kool-aid.

Intake manifold removed, block cleaned.
Things replaced:
Hoses and pipes
Starter
Engine coolant sensor
TB cleaned and gasket replaced
IM gasket
Knock sensors
IN cam, EX cam and crank sensors
MAF
Intake boots

Car starts with enthusiasm now and pulls much harder. Well worth the work.

Also found that someone has been in here previously. The injector harness clips were missing and the ECT sensor plug was damaged. The previous cylinder #6 misfire I had is now gone, but now I have a P3198 code related to the ECT sensor. I will probably replace the whole injector harness with a good one from the junkyard. That should fix both issues.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190311/7910097d2141ff4898bf01e37f69f83a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190311/dccfa6b2b94e87756d9202e72c7f59d7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190311/49298181301cd02b917a111148a92e25.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190311/c28a4e26e754e8b7a44c4bfbba73f952.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190311/05c5de0c1098bcfa734cae17aecae600.jpg

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[tomnobes]

Nice! Just curious, did you unbolt the starter from up top or underneath?

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[DeathTrap]

Nice! Just curious, did you unbolt the starter from up top or underneath?

Sent from my SM-G930V using TapatalkGot it from above. Much easier IMO.
I used a small, non-ratcheting 3/8" breaker bar and a E12(?) socket with a pipe to break the starter bolts loose and a ratcheting wrench to finish undoing them.

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[tomnobes]

Got it from above. Much easier IMO.
I used a small, non-ratcheting 3/8" breaker bar and a E12(?) socket with a pipe to break the starter bolts loose and a ratcheting wrench to finish undoing them.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using TapatalkGotcha. Thanks! My main issue was one of my bolts had seized so that was a pain to get that one out but regardless I was never able to fit the E12 socket on the back without the breaker bar/wrench hitting the trans.. Must have just had too bulky of a breaker bar I guess.

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[DeathTrap]

Yeah, the 1/2" bar is way too big to fit in there. Luckily I had that little guy or I would've had a looooong day.

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[DeathTrap]

Fixed my ECT plug. Replaced missing injector clips. Still have a high RPM cylinder #6 misfire.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190316/ee5dfd2f73e4760055faf15328cc8522.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190316/732f68439318be50afadc3daefebbfcc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190316/83945baac93832fe2d90be3e28131ef2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190316/0a995d4e3968704cf4857da4fcd48e46.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190316/3d88c725e1106dbdbc1145b0a7a5463b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190316/df81d5d3a99d00c1cc2a995da623fed8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190316/dbe2febb644003ca9c0fbeab30a647b2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190316/603dadcb4c153c039a67166a87f5a997.jpg

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[DeathTrap]

Still chasing that damn rear right side toe! I'm going to replace the UCA next. If that doesn't fix it, then the diff carrier, trailing arm, car, in that order. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190814/1339af7245c135244f8e9da039f176a5.jpg

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[racer2086]

Your thrust angle is way off. It can be related to the toe being off, but that can also indicate the rear subframe is off or wheelbase is uneven left to right. It's also possible they aligned the front "good" but since it's off to the rear, it's really not good and causing the thrust angle. Does the steering wheel align straight when the car is driving down the road or tend to steer off center? Has the car been in an accident?

[DeathTrap]

The car has been in an accident on that side. The quarter panel was replaced (not a good job on that either), but I didn't see any frame issues. I took it to a BMW specialist shop and they didn't notice anything really out of place either.

My original lower arm was bent, but I thought nothing of it because of its design... flimsy. My rear wheel is also not centered and the ride height is a bit lower on that side. Today, I took a tape measure and measured from the chassis to the top of the brake rotor and there is a measurable difference. Not quite sure what that means yet, but we'll find out soon.

Other than that, she steers straight for the most part, with light wandering (feels like a gust of wind) sometimes.

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[racer2086]

The car has been in an accident on that side. The quarter panel was replaced (not a good job on that either), but I didn't see any frame issues. I took it to a BMW specialist shop and they didn't notice anything really out of place either.

My original lower arm was bent, but I thought nothing of it because of its design... flimsy. My rear wheel is also not centered and the ride height is a bit lower on that side. Today, I took a tape measure and measured from the chassis to the top of the brake rotor and there is a measurable difference. Not quite sure what that means yet, but we'll find out soon.

Other than that, she steers straight for the most part, with light wandering (feels like a gust of wind) sometimes.

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This is your problem. Something is bent (subframe?) And that wheel is pushed forward or backwards, thus throwing off your thrust angle. The toe was consequently altered and the alignment guy maxed out on the eccentric bolt for toe adjustment, which is why you can't get it better than it is. Time to visit the frame shop...

Ride height would mostly affect camber. However, camber does affect toe when adjusted. Camber is supposed to be set first and then toe after. So I guess it's possible that if the ride height is that far off maybe from a bent arm or something, then your camber would be off, which would require excessive adjustment, which could also affect your toe. But the camber adjustment has its limits much like the toe, so I can't see camber being the reason why you can't get the toe at least close.

[DeathTrap]

I'm thinking that the subframe or control arm is bent as well. It doesn't take much to change the alignment specs in that way (a few mm would do it). Before I visit the frame shop, I'm going to replace the subframe and UCA as well as the associated bushings just to tighten and clean everything up under there.

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[racer2086]

Yeah makes sense. I figured the frame shop may be able to pull it back to spec, instead of you doing all that work. Of course, if it's just a control arm, that's easy. I thought you replaced the control arms?

[DeathTrap]

Only the lower, not the upper. I did replace it last night, and it may have had some torsional stress? At least it looks like is was slightly twisted compared to the good arm. The car is at almost at the same ride height as the other side now. I did find some more cancer while I was under there seems to be only on this side where the poor repair was done. I'll grab some pictures later.

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[DeathTrap]

Shit just got real...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190819/05c9ee91e40a278d71f26dc272cb4e7d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190819/acd997e00c27e0e6bfa993e6ca812366.jpg

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[racer2086]

Ooof

[az3579]

DAMN. This is really painful to see...

[Chaplian]

Holy crap, that's a lot of rust. How is the other side?

[johnrando]

Ouch!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[DeathTrap]

Other side is great. The rusted out side is where the quarter panel was replaced. I'm guessing poor draining led to this over time. Unfortunately, I'm wayyyyyy to invested to let her go now, so I'll have to eat this one... Eventuallyhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190819/f09a7b3ee9b7d5b9f4529e056c5c1d9f.jpg

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[holyc0w]

I also had a bent upper control arm screwing up the height and toe. I was glad it wasn't the trailing arm.

[DeathTrap]

Ordered the updated ignition coils with new plugs. FCPEuro LRG saved me about $200. I'm hoping this will cure my misfire as it seems to be getting worse, which is a good thing for diagnostics.

I'll go to the yard tomorrow pull a subframe, trailing arm and bracket, and a maybe a new engine wiring harness as the loom is deteriorating on mine.

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[racer2086]

Which coils did you go with? I bought Delphi, since I read some good stuff about them. They are great so far. Added a noticeable pep to the car. I didn't have misfires before except for the 2800 rpm stumble, which it did not cure.

[DeathTrap]

I believe they are the Delphi ones. I can 100% confirm when they get here.

Grabbed a subframe and a trailing arm from the pull apart. This was off of a auto 325i that probably wasn't driven too hard and the bushings are cracking, so I know mine need to be replaced with 205k on them.

Hopefully, that'll fix the alignment thing as well as tighten up the car...FWIW...they are still stock bushings.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190903/9bd697f284c541237299fa3a2ebc2b11.jpg

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[DeathTrap]

Love this meme... I'm sure you all can relate lol.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190909/bcf58d0f4c81e5d2e064fd478ee51d7c.jpg

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[holyc0w]

Love this meme... I'm sure you all can relate lol.


Everytime :D

[DeathTrap]

Passed emissions in the state of Ga. Pretty easy since everyone thinks the resonators are the cats.

Next:
Header ceramic coating by a local company

While the header is being installed:
Shifter bushing refresh
Shift seal
Output seal
Guibo
CSB
Diff swap?maybe
Install subframe with fresh OEM bushings
Check for RACP cracks

Then I'll be almost done with maintenance...after 4 years...

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[johnrando]

Nice!

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[DeathTrap]

Baby steps. Next is to paint the subframe and and install new OE bushings for diff and subframe.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191014/a0356c280c285b35d4dba89bef4ad939.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191014/88b83f20f3ad9cfd5ce831788a5f9ef2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191014/afe1e156f8d084c3157ee07a390b6612.jpg

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[DeathTrap]

Decided to do a quick health check.

Fuel pressure good at around 50psi, leaky connection, but it did the job.

Compression on all cylinders are between 175-185 dry. Roughly 4-5 cranks. A 10 crank test puts them closer to 190-195.

Happy with the results, not happy with my misfire. I bought Bytelogger to do some serious datalogging. Can't fight what you can't see.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191102/2d95b77489b2c6f3002c328a388ed7f2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191102/075d960e002708ef8361ddd7415cfde9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191102/8c23f8297bea3a1a717c792cbb5a10b3.jpg

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[DeathTrap]

Car went electrically dead on me. Went to go wiggle the positive batt terminal and voila, everything comes on. Ugh...

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[DeathTrap]

Shipped headers off to get ceramic coated. I was going to go local, but changed my mind at the last minute.

[DeathTrap]

E-Brake handle died on me, stopped ratcheting. I'll have to break that down and fix it.

Need to install my clear headlight covers too.

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[DeathTrap]

Fuel pump replaced at 210... prevention is keyhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191224/698dcc5bf3b8d864d1ad75680b240529.jpg

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[johnrando]

True dat

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[Will]

Did you ever diagnose the misfire? Bad plug or coil?

[DeathTrap]

99% sure it's clogged cats as there is a significant loss of power at all rpms now.

The engine sounds "rough" as in it's struggling to breathe.

The exhaust pulses coming out the muffler feel weak, but I really need a known good car to compare it with.

My headers are coming back from the ceramic coater in about 2 weeks, so I'm not going to bother with pulling plugs or anything.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[DeathTrap]

Just noticed that I haven't really wrenched on the car since March of last year. Is she getting reliable on me??

[Will]

Just noticed that I haven't really wrenched on the car since March of last year. Is she getting reliable on me??


That's a good feeling - just to enjoy the drive rather than to have downtime due to reliability problems.

Was the fuel pump @210k the second one (i.e. 1 per ~100k miles), or was it preventative since it had 210k?

[DeathTrap]

According to the Carfax, the last time it was replaced was at 105k, over 5 years ago now. It may have been good for another few years, but I'd rather not roll the dice.

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[Will]

According to the Carfax, the last time it was replaced was at 105k, over 5 years ago now. It may have been good for another few years, but I'd rather not roll the dice.




Nice. I agree, I think it's a ~100k mile maintenance item.

[DeathTrap]

I'm pretty sure I'll need counseling after I'm done with this car.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200224/2803bcad842ecde0d0c63a392c0e7a15.jpg

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[Will]

I'm pretty sure I'll need counseling after I'm done with this car.



Maybe we can get a group-rate on that counseling. Looking forward to see the progress!

[johnrando]

Lol

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[DeathTrap]

I'm kind of conflicted right now...there is a Japanrot wagon I'm interested in that's fairly local.

I won't be able to use my dad's car for too much longer, so I'll need a temporary daily.

I already have most of the parts for a ZHP conversion.

This car is suffering from rust and a pretty extensive accident history.

In theory, I could gut all the juicy bits from the sedan, scrap it, and transfer it to the wagon depending on how nice the wagon is and what I can haggle down to.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[ZHPizza]

Oh right I remember how much trouble you were having getting it aligned. Honestly the transplant might be the best bet.

Paint that wagon estoril tho

[GeorgeH]

This car is suffering from rust and a pretty extensive accident history.

In theory, I could gut all the juicy bits from the sedan, scrap it, and transfer it to the wagon depending on how nice the wagon is and what I can haggle down to.
k

Sounds like making lemonade from lemons, that's what I would do consider the rust and accident history.

[DeathTrap]

I have way too much invested in the game to just give up now. I'm pretty sure my maintenance record book is about an inch thick. Almost every mechanical part has been replaced under my ownership, so it really makes the most sense in my head to transfer everything to a nice body. This was a great first BMW experience for me, as it showed me how neglected these cars can get. It also showed me the reward (and wallet draining) of fixing the small things like shocks that are old but not dead and worn out suspension bushings and oil leaks...all of the oil leaks. I have literally watched this car grow from being a POS, to a fairly competent daily. Minus this little mishap, the car was reliable. Now I get to try again, this time with more knowledge and experience under my belt and hopefully with a clean sheet this time...with more cargo space.

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[DeathTrap]

Also, look at the piston number 1 exhaust valve relief. That is definitely a dent from a tappy tap. It makes me feel a little better knowing that a single valve didn't just randomly drop, and reinforces the original suspected cause of failure which was the VANOS bolts that came loose on the intake cam.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200302/9d4186892d3c39daf4e2c39e2a0bc62d.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[Thatguy_JZ]

I'm kind of conflicted right now...there is a Japanrot wagon I'm interested in that's fairly local.

I won't be able to use my dad's car for too much longer, so I'll need a temporary daily.

I already have most of the parts for a ZHP conversion.

This car is suffering from rust and a pretty extensive accident history.

In theory, I could gut all the juicy bits from the sedan, scrap it, and transfer it to the wagon depending on how nice the wagon is and what I can haggle down to.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using TapatalkDo this. Love Japanrot.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

[Will]

+1 on conversion.

[GeorgeH]

You will literally take everything from under the ZHP (except the fuel tank, lines and brake lines) and transfer it to the wag, all of your previous ZHP maintenance will be put to good use.

[DeathTrap]

The teardown has begun.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200307/5d2a0ca5c04b6aca3596e2c5e940624f.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[DeathTrap]

Got a lot done today, well not really a lot, but definitely something!

Things removed:
Exhaust
Heat shield
Driveshaft
Shifter components
Guibo

Driveshaft was a pain because it was stuck to the diff and required some "motivation" to come off. The CSB was trash, the guibo was trash, shift shaft seal is leaking, shifter bushings worn, RACP is cracking...just normal 200k+ mile, 17 year old car stuffs

I've had all those new parts for a year, but now I can't even enjoy them...yet.

I'm going to drop the entire rear subframe, maybe the front too, pull the engine and trans, and I think I'll be done with the mechanical things. Then I can remove the ZHP exterior and interior things.

Finally, I'll try to either sell the chassis locally or scrap it. It would still make a good race car...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200309/41dc8442814ccf7d76e365ec43a80ef7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200309/eb18c4ccd1b3443369ffb65cf044fd33.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200309/901542015277957082a617710fdcc58e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200309/0de81ea6c2fe3e6cde029600599cb931.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200309/57aa7997780d790e8762b11d6a0a6962.jpg

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[Will]

Great progress! Reminder to be safe while working underneath the car.

[DeathTrap]

Thanks Will! I normally do double redundancy with my floor jack and triple once I take the wheels off. Can never be too careful!

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[DeathTrap]

Well damn...
This is not a project
This is not a project
This is not a project
This is not a project
This is not a projecthttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200318/cca1a65f9060b7cbf2cf7230fea77bf3.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[Will]

:fistpump

Congrats! Can't wait for more photos and story time!

[DeathTrap]

The story still continues with this one until she gets towed.

Stripping all the ZHP parts off... shadowline trim removal is a pain in the arse, wow.

Some more evidence of the cool, but poorly prepped paint.

Rust bubble in the rear rocker...stuck a screwdriver right through it....

I still believe the origin of the rust was this quarter panel replacement job. Note how clean the battery tray area is. Almost no rust therehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200320/613c1f595ad920ad4a86b53b3b211bd9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200320/9639fb180fdba27428bb54b12d683011.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200320/6802021066e9153ddf5b431fb53f64c7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200320/56c517f475692dbd4820ca48a569e3bd.jpg

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[DeathTrap]

Seats and most of the ZHP interior parts are out...too bad the wagon interior is tan or I would swap them over.

Only things left to remove are
Front subframe with suspension and 712 rack
DSC motor/module
DME and harness
Window regulators, cause they are expensive for all 4 ($$$)
Fuel pump cause it's literally brand new
Fuel filter because FCPeurohttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200321/3c74b4f853f45e8c32f0c86c718a496f.jpg

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[DeathTrap]

Everything is out! Hopefully she gets picked up tomorrow and the new owner turns her into a proper project and not scrap.

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[fredo]

Hasta la vista, ZHP. And good luck on your future car adventures.

[DeathTrap]

Hasta la vista, ZHP. And good luck on your future car adventures.

Thank you Fredo. There are even bigger plans in store. Stay tuned!

[johnrando]

Hasta la vista, ZHP. And good luck on your future car adventures.+1

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

[DeathTrap]

Tis the end of the chapter. The car won't be missed, but the memories and lessons learned will. But for now... there's a hot young lady in a red dress waiting for me. [emoji48]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200331/be021456af0ff10363716e674c609db8.jpg

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[johnrando]

:thumbsup

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