Cooling System Refresh

[Kimber]

Hi guys! I am thinking its time to do my cooling system (the only thing I haven't refreshed yet since buying the car 2 years ago) and although I found some threads they all seem to be pretty old so I thought I would post a new thread and see if people can chime in on helping me get this done correctly.

'06 ZHP convertible with 98k miles auto trans

I picked up a UUC underdrive pulley/belt kit (http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/underdrive-pulley-set---e46-3-series-99-06-330328325323-and-z3-3025-p225.aspx) and the GAS 1.2 bar coolant cap but need some advice on what's best for the rest of the parts.

I don't track the car, but enjoy spirited driving, and only put about 5k miles a year on the car and have no plans on selling it.

What do you guys recommend? (I want to do it right the first time, but also don't need OEM parts if I can save some money on equal quality parts)

Is everyone replacing the radiator?

Upgrading to Mishimoto hoses worth it or just for looks?

What about fan delete on my auto trans car?

Thanks so much guys, and hopefully this will help others with a more recent thread about this maintenance project. :)


EDIT: Consensus of the thread

I'll be doing a new Behr radiator for piece of mind and because I will have everything apart already. If yours has low miles and is in good shape then most people say it can go a bit longer if need be.

From most things I have read and researched stay away from Mishimoto hoses. They tend to leak and customer service is nonexistent. I'll be using Rein as most everyone else has.

I did not put the water pump (11517527910) in the list because that is going to be a personal preference decision on which brand to buy. Stewart is awesome, but at $200 I can't justify it for what I do with my car. Maybe if I wasn't doing my radiator, I would have gone Stewart, but I'm right around $700 in parts with everything on my list, and the Stewart would have taken that to $850. I personally am going with GEBA, as it is cast steel rather than welded and many people use them with success.


EDIT: LIST OF COMPLETE PARTS

17119071519 Radiator for Auto Trans - Behr
17117573781 Expansion Tank - Modine at FCP
17117639022 Expansion Tank Cap - Genuine BMW (I'm using the 1.2bar cap from G.A.S.)
11531436408 Radiator Hose lower - Rein
17127510952 Radiator Hose Upper _ Rein
11531436410 Expansion tank to lower hose - Rein
11537509227 Thermostat Assembly -Wahler
13621433077 AUXiliary Fan Switch - OEM
07119963200 Coolant drain crush washer at engine -block - BMW
17137553919 Fluid Level sensor _ OEM
82141467704 1 gallon of Coolant - BMW
07119904524 water pump pulley hex bolts (need 4)
07129904553 water pump - need 4 nuts
17111712963 Fan Shroud Clip - Genuine BMW (in case you break them)

17111707777 Expansion tank mounting clamp (or you can use the original if in good shape)
17111436251 Expansion Tank Retainer (or you can use the original if in good shape)


If you have AUTO trans don't forget these:

17111437362 Auto trans Oil cooler thermostat - OEM at FCP
17111711987 Auto Trans cooler o-rings (need 2)


Check which pulley's and tensioner style you have to make sure you are getting correct parts (but for me they are below). You can also get complete kits but they are more money and most likely you can reuse your original bolts and washers (and you can even choose to just do the pulley itself if your tensioner is in good shape):

11287841228 Drive Belt Idler Pulley - INA
11281730349 Pulley Protection Cap - Genuine BMW
07119904677 Idler Pulley Securing Bolt - Genuine BMW

07119904115 wave washer for short bolt
07119906650 short bolt
07119904533 Medium bolt- reuse washer
07119904532 Long bolt - reuse washer and cap
07129905534 Fillister Head Screw BMW
11281748131 Hydraulic Alternator Belt Tensioner Roller INA
11281727159 Tensioner Pulley Dust Cap BMW
11281730532 Tensioner Pulley Mud Cap BMW
11287838797 Accessory Belt Tensioner Assembly - INA

Check which A/C tensioner style you have and also what rib belt you have to make sure you are getting correct parts (for me they are below):

4PK863 A/C Belt - Contitech
11287512758 A/C Belt Tensioner and pulley kit - INA


You should also get the main belt and a "metal water pump pulley" as well, but since I will be installing my underdrive water and power steering pump pulleys, I am using the belt and pulley's that came with that kit from UUC.


If your an AUTO trans and going to do the "fan delete = 2 for 1 fan mod" then you will need the fan assembly from a manual trans, or you can take your stock AUX fan from the front of the radiator and put it in the manual housing. The housing part number is 17117511168. I couldn't find a new manual assembly for less than around $200, so to save some money, I will try using my stock fan and the $70 new manual housing.

[JohnnyGraphic]

Hi there! Congrats on tackling this relatively easy DIY.

First off on the fan. If you plan on doing a lot of DIY, it makes sense to replace. But, not necessary.

My first time, I went with aftermarket parts and I had one heck of a time with fitment. Some parts just did not want to snick into place like OEM. A lot of time spent messing with it.

The second time, I went all BMW OEM parts and it was night and day difference. Just my experience. Some don’t have any issues.

I DID have a metal impeller water pump self destruct on me. It was a Graf unit. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180328/f9dd78c1917d9d7dd19d956f99adb7b3.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180328/cb02ceed67a7a76b88db87107c993d43.jpg

This was the first time I did the cooling system. The second time I went with an OEM BMW remanufactured unit.

I bought the full system refresh kit from ECS Tuning which included the radiator. You can get one without.

At your mileage, I don’t think a radiator is needed unless you had some extreme conditions/driving or you suspect the prior owner did something funky.

Google for Mike Millers Old School maintenance schedule. It’s pretty much the Bible for BMW DIYers.

[JohnnyGraphic]

Oh and happy wrenching!!!

And check out 50’s Kid YT channel. A lot of good DIY info. And if you’re starting out, check out the starter tool guide. No need to get crazy with impact tools, but the socket and torx tools suggestions are great.

[BMWCurves]

I’ve done the cooling system twice: once on my car with the Turner Motorsport cooling system refresh kit about 3 years ago, and again on my sister’s 330Xi picking parts individually.

If I had to do it again, I’d pick parts individually and stick to OEM. As the previous commenter said, OEM parts made the job a lot easier because of better fitment. I replaced the radiator in both cases because even though it’s not as big an issue on the M54, the radiator still has plastic inlets that can break. Since they had never been replaced and it had been 12+ years, I just did it for peace of mind.


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[san]

Apart from proper fitment OEM parts also seem to last much longer based on member’s experiences.


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[trancenation]

Hi there! Congrats on tackling this relatively easy DIY.

First off on the fan. If you plan on doing a lot of DIY, it makes sense to replace. But, not necessary.

My first time, I went with aftermarket parts and I had one heck of a time with fitment. Some parts just did not want to snick into place like OEM. A lot of time spent messing with it.

The second time, I went all BMW OEM parts and it was night and day difference. Just my experience. Some don’t have any issues.

I DID have a metal impeller water pump self destruct on me. It was a Graf unit. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180328/f9dd78c1917d9d7dd19d956f99adb7b3.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180328/cb02ceed67a7a76b88db87107c993d43.jpg

This was the first time I did the cooling system. The second time I went with an OEM BMW remanufactured unit.

I bought the full system refresh kit from ECS Tuning which included the radiator. You can get one without.

At your mileage, I don’t think a radiator is needed unless you had some extreme conditions/driving or you suspect the prior owner did something funky.

Google for Mike Millers Old School maintenance schedule. It’s pretty much the Bible for BMW DIYers.

Yikes how many miles on that water pump and how did you know you needed to replace that one?

[JohnnyGraphic]

Yikes how many miles on that water pump and how did you know you needed to replace that one?

I did the first one at 70k and then the second time at 135k. The coolant had some pretty icky stuff in it and the WP had a very minor seepage problem. Nothing dramatic. Not sure how long it was like that as I didn’t hear anything or notice any difference in cooling.

One thing, the belts on the aftermarket kit did not last long at all! They were in bad shape after 50k. The originals didn’t show much wear at 70k.

[Dave1027]

What about fan delete on my auto trans car?



I did the fan delete/conversion on my car when I did the cooling system refresh plus belts and pulleys. It's quieter and and I don't have to worry about the mech fan self destructing and causing extensive damage. I'm hoping not having it doesn't cause my tranny to fail prematurely.

Here's the best way to bleed the cooling system when all done replacing parts. http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1124821

[Newjack]

I did the fan delete/conversion on my car when I did the cooling system refresh plus belts and pulleys. It's quieter and and I don't have to worry about the mech fan self destructing and causing extensive damage. I'm hoping not having it doesn't cause my tranny to fail prematurely.

Here's the best way to bleed the cooling system when all done replacing parts. http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1124821

I think another added bonus is how much easier the manual trans fan is to remove and put back in. No extra wrench required.

OP for the cooling system I would stick with OEM parts and try to get a bundle from ECS or somewhere to save money. You probably don't need to replace the radiator, but they do tend to get worse with age. I just replaced my original radiator at 144k, so they will last.

[Kimber]

Thanks guys keep it coming!

So no one is recommending the Mishimoto tubes at all? ($140 on amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Mishimoto-MMHOSE-E46-NONMRD-Silicone-Radiator-Hose/dp/B019740DT2/ref=sr_1_16?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1499799918&sr=1-16&keywords=mishimoto+e46))

I am thinking about getting the Mishimoto pipes for the intake. (run about $100 for the set on Amazon) I got the AFE CAI stage 1 and I like it but it whistles at lower RPM, and I am thinking it might be the ridges on the stock intake pipes. Plus I figure this would be a once and done replacement and not ever have to worry about the stock pipes getting cracks, etc. years down the road. Thoughts?

I have a friend of a friend that is a BMW tech and is going to be helping me do the wrenching. Not that I don't think I could DIY, but he needs some extra cash and I figure two sets of hands its always easier! LOL He also has the shop and all the tools, so bonus! And he is going to check to see if he thinks I need to do a walnut cleaning and all that. He said he can do it pretty cheap, so I might get that done right away while I am there.

[Kimber]

I did the fan delete/conversion on my car when I did the cooling system refresh plus belts and pulleys. It's quieter and and I don't have to worry about the mech fan self destructing and causing extensive damage. I'm hoping not having it doesn't cause my tranny to fail prematurely.

Here's the best way to bleed the cooling system when all done replacing parts. http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1124821

That self destructing is the real reason I am thinking of doing it. The extra space and less noise is just a bonus. Did you follow a thread or instructions when you did yours? Mind linking it here? ( I found a bunch, but just wondering if you liked one over another)

Have you seen any issues come up since you did yours? Running hot or anything?

I'm in PA, but only drive in the summer really, but I have heard guys in MUCH hotter climates doing this fan delete to their AUTO's with no problems, so I think I would be fine here in PA. :)

If I do the fan delete I'll probably use my original AUX fan and just get the proper new shroud (17117511168 (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-fan-shroud-17117511168)) for like $70 rather than getting a whole new Behr fan (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-auxiliary-fan-assembly-e46-17117561757-17117561758) for $230.

[Dave1027]

Have you seen any issues come up since you did yours? Running hot or anything?

I'm in PA, but only drive in the summer really, but I have heard guys in MUCH hotter climates doing this fan delete to their AUTO's with no problems, so I think I would be fine here in PA. :)

If I do the fan delete I'll probably use my original AUX fan and just get the proper new shroud (17117511168 (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-fan-shroud-17117511168)) for like $70 rather than getting a whole new Behr fan (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-auxiliary-fan-assembly-e46-17117561757-17117561758) for $230.

I did not use one specific DIY. I pulled info from multiple internet sources before doing the conversion. I purchased an entire aux fan assembly because I did not want to take a chance with an old fan motor. I ended up getting a "Cool Expert" fan assembly for not too much cost.

It has been working fine for a few years now. It only comes on when it needs to like idling at stop lights and when driving slow speed. When I pull into the garage and turn off the key I can sometimes hear it winding down. Otherwise I never hear it. I do notice the slight load it puts on the alternator when it engages when idling but I don't hear it. It is a variable speed so normally it spins slow and silent.

I'm in central California and it certainly gets hot here in the summer. Sometime hits 110 degrees. The temp needle always stays dead center. My only concern was for transmission longevity. It's been said that heat kills transmissions and logic tells me BMW included the mech on the auto cars for transmission cooling.

[Kimber]

So I have been going thru what posts I could find and using Mango's guide (http://www.e46mango.com/2017/05/bmw-e46-cooling-overheating-diy-guide.html) as well. I'll most likely use FCP Euro since they have a lifetime warranty on everything they sell and I have ordered from them before and been happy with their service, etc. This is what I came up with so far:

17119071519 Radiator for Auto Trans - Behr
17117573781 Expansion Tank - Modine at FCP (they also have Behr for less money, which is better?)
11531436408 Radiator Hose lower - Rein
17127510952 Raditor Hose Upper _ Rein
11531436410 Expansion tank to lower hose - Rein
11537509227 Thermostat Assembly -Wahler
13621433077 AUXiliary Fan Switch - OEM at FCP
07119963200 Coolant drain crush washer at engine -block - BMW
17137553919 Fluid Level sensor _ OEM at FCP
17111712963 Fan Shroud Clip - Genuine BMW (in case I break them)
17111437362 Auto trans Oil cooler thermostat - OEM at FCP
17111711987 Auto Trans cooler o-rings (need 2)
I've got the 1.2 bar G.A.S. coolant cap from when I did my DISA rebuild


Do I need 17111707777 Expansion tank mounting clamp? (or can I use the original)

Do I need 17111436251 Expansion Tank Retainer (or can I use the original)

Do I only need 1 gallon of BMW coolant? (82141467704)

What do you guys think about adding the Redline Water Wetter Coolant Additive - 12oz?

And I have no idea what water pump I should get. I really don't see the need for the Stewart for $195 unless all the rest are just garbage. What has everyone used and been happy with?

Anything else I am missing on the coolant refresh side of things guys?



I'll be putting my UUC underdrive pulley kit on at the same time, so I figure I am going to do all the pulley's and tensioner's while I have everything apart and easy to reach.

I'm thinking of going INA for everything, or is there something better?

I have to check my A/C belt (which I will order new as well) to see if its 4 or 5 wide which should determine which part I need for the tensioner with pulley, but it should be : 11287512758 (4 rib) or 11281433571 (5 rib) and these tensioner's come with the pulley and new dust caps...I'l just reuse my old bolts unless someone says I need to order those new as well.

11287841228 Drive Belt Idler Pulley - INA
11281730349 Pulley Protection Cap - Genuine BMW
07119904677 Idler Pulley Securing Bolt - Genuine BMW

INA-5330097100 at FCP is the whole kit for the accessory belt tensioner (hydraulic) which having the '06 vert I am pretty sure its hydraulic, but have to double check.

I think that's all I need for that part of the job...am I missing anything guys?


And I'm still thinking about what I want to do for the main fan delete (or should be called 2 for 1 fan swap). I can get the fan shroud (17117511168) for around 70 and just swap out my stock AUX fan and be done. I'm not seeing a new "manual trans" fan setup anywhere for much cheaper than $200. Am I not looking hard enough, or is that what people are paying. I don't see anything wrong with my AUX fan, so thought that would save me $130. Anyone disagree?

Thanks guys!

[Kimber]

I did not use one specific DIY. I pulled info from multiple internet sources before doing the conversion. I purchased an entire aux fan assembly because I did not want to take a chance with an old fan motor. I ended up getting a "Cool Expert" fan assembly for not too much cost.

It has been working fine for a few years now. It only comes on when it needs to like idling at stop lights and when driving slow speed. When I pull into the garage and turn off the key I can sometimes hear it winding down. Otherwise I never hear it. I do notice the slight load it puts on the alternator when it engages when idling but I don't hear it. It is a variable speed so normally it spins slow and silent.

I'm in central California and it certainly gets hot here in the summer. Sometime hits 110 degrees. The temp needle always stays dead center. My only concern was for transmission longevity. It's been said that heat kills transmissions and logic tells me BMW included the mech on the auto cars for transmission cooling.

I've read that about the auto trans cooling as well, but by getting rid of the AUX fan in front that opens up the radiator to all that fresh air, and if it gets warm enough I would think the electric fan would pull enough air thru to cool it down. If it was really an issue, you would think BMW would have put a bigger trans cooler on rather than the deck of cards size one we have now. LOL I'm not worried about it to be honest. :)

[johnrando]

I did the fan delete too... as said, not a must do but helpful. For radiators, I would think a bit soon but I have not heard any negatives about Mishimoto.

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[anandoc]

Do I need 17111707777 Expansion tank mounting clamp? (or can I use the original)

Do I need 17111436251 Expansion Tank Retainer (or can I use the original)

Do I only need 1 gallon of BMW coolant? (82141467704)

What do you guys think about adding the Redline Water Wetter Coolant Additive - 12oz?

And I have no idea what water pump I should get. I really don't see the need for the Stewart for $195 unless all the rest are just garbage. What has everyone used and been happy with?


You don't need to get 17111707777 or 17111436251. I was able to reuse my existing ones without any issues.

1 gallon of coolant is more than enough. You are going to mix it 50/50 with distilled water anyways

You don't need any Redline water wetter or anything. Just OEM coolant and water mix.

I got GEBA water pump (link (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-geba-parts/new-water-pump-with-o-ring/11517527910~geb/))when I did my cooling system refresh in 2014. The o-rings died in December of 2017 so I had to get another water pump because I was in a pinch and could not source just the o-rings. The water pump was still working fine.

Here is a comprehensive aux fan delete guide (and other related info). I have done this swap a year+ ago and no issues so far. Mind you, I used an actual electric fan from a manual ZHP instead of doing the shroud and module swap.

http://e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=849735

[Oltorf]

I just did a cooling system refresh, and it's not a bad job (well, I had my whole front end off since it was rebuilding a wrecked car). I'd use the really fancy stewart water pump and aluminum pulleys while you're there. I would also avoid mishimoto stuff. I got their radiator and expansion tank and they both leaked pretty bad, and then wouldn't back up their product. Basically told me to pound sand when I talked to them about it.

[BMWCurves]

Here's what I documented on my cooling system refresh when I did it in the spring of 2015, with links to guides I followed: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?15714-William-s-330Ci-ZHP-Maintenance-and-Project-Thread&p=429156#post429156

Here are the parts I used in my sister's 330Xi cooling system refresh: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?17920-BMWCurve-s-Sibling-s-2003-BMW-330Xi-M-Sport-Canadian-Maintenance-Ledger

[Kimber]

I just did a cooling system refresh, and it's not a bad job (well, I had my whole front end off since it was rebuilding a wrecked car). I'd use the really fancy stewart water pump and aluminum pulleys while you're there. I would also avoid mishimoto stuff. I got their radiator and expansion tank and they both leaked pretty bad, and then wouldn't back up their product. Basically told me to pound sand when I talked to them about it.

Yeah I have the UUC underdrive water and steering pump pulley set to install (leaving the alternator stock as I have plans for a new audio system this summer). I heard a couple bad things about Mishimoto leaking on those items (and even their hoses) plus the customer service is nonexistent.

So the only Mishimoto part I think I will be adding is possibly the air intake piping kit they have. (seems like the fit isn't perfect but it works good once you shave it to fit)

Thanks for the input!

[Kimber]

I did the fan delete too... as said, not a must do but helpful. For radiators, I would think a bit soon but I have not heard any negatives about Mishimoto.

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I think we talked long a go about you doing the fan delete. I'm pretty sure i am just going to get the shroud and swap my front fan and be done with it. That fan doesn't get used hard, and I'd rather not spend 200 or so on a new "manual trans" fan assembly when I have the fan already. :)

So your thoughts are the radiator doesn't need to be replaced? I should be hitting 100k miles soon, but as I said in the OP I drive maybe 5k a year if that. I guess I was just thinking I am doing all these other parts and everything will be ripped out already, now would be an easy time, but if its a waste of money, then why do it.

Let me know your thoughts?

[Kimber]

Here's what I documented on my cooling system refresh when I did it in the spring of 2015, with links to guides I followed: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?15714-William-s-330Ci-ZHP-Maintenance-and-Project-Thread&p=429156#post429156

Here are the parts I used in my sister's 330Xi cooling system refresh: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?17920-BMWCurve-s-Sibling-s-2003-BMW-330Xi-M-Sport-Canadian-Maintenance-Ledger

I was researching the Turner kit as well and it seems I have a couple extra items being an AUTO but most everything is similar. I like FCP Euro as their prices are great and lifetime warranty on everything.

Only real thing I saw different were FCP euro has the Modine expansion tank for about $15 bucks over the cost of the Behr. Has anyone used this Modine and is it better that the Behr?

What brand water pump did you go with on your and your sister's car? Thoughts on the Stewart?

And I'll be using your links for the underdrive pulley install as well, thanks!

[Kimber]

When you guys have done your A/C and tensioner pulley's, did you replace the whole assembly, or just get the pulley itself? Is INA the brand to go with, or is there a better option?

[Newjack]

I was researching the Turner kit as well and it seems I have a couple extra items being an AUTO but most everything is similar. I like FCP Euro as their prices are great and lifetime warranty on everything.

Only real thing I saw different were FCP euro has the Modine expansion tank for about $15 bucks over the cost of the Behr. Has anyone used this Modine and is it better that the Behr?

What brand water pump did you go with on your and your sister's car? Thoughts on the Stewart?

And I'll be using your links for the underdrive pulley install as well, thanks!

Good luck using them. You'll need it.

Just get the regular OEM water pump. Stewart is great, but mainly used for those who go FI.


When you guys have done your A/C and tensioner pulley's, did you replace the whole assembly, or just get the pulley itself? Is INA the brand to go with, or is there a better option?

Just go with the INA brand. If you have hydraulic tensioners you probably don't need to replace those, mechanical have to be replaced more often.

[johnrando]

100K. Still not required if in good shape but since you're in there you can do the radiator.

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[Kimber]

Good luck using them. You'll need it.

Just get the regular OEM water pump. Stewart is great, but mainly used for those who go FI.



Just go with the INA brand. If you have hydraulic tensioners you probably don't need to replace those, mechanical have to be replaced more often.

Have you had issues with FCP Euro?

[John in VA]

Have you had issues with FCP Euro?
Newjack has, but a number of us have not had any problems.

[Newjack]

Have you had issues with FCP Euro?The lifetime warranty is great, but their shipping is horrible so expect broken parts, and their customer service is the worst I've experienced.

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[Kimber]

I updated the OP with my complete parts list and also put a consensus of what info you guys have given me so far. I'll keep updating so its easy for new viewers to see. Thanks so much guys!

So my last couple of questions before I put my order for parts in:

Water pump brand, I am not seeing a consensus of what everyone is using and having good results with. Is Saleri the best out of them all rather than getting a re-manufactured BMW one. Saleri runs like $50, the reman BMW for $120, and the Stewart is $195. Since I am going to be running the UCC underdrive water pump pulley (and the G.A.S. 1.2 bar cap) does that have any influence on what pump I should get?

Also do the water pumps come with 4 new nuts 07129904553 , or should I be ordering those as well (or just reuse the old ones?)

Thanks guys for the input!!

[SaltyNC]

Kimber,

The Saleri pump is exactly the same pump that BMW is supplying, now, if that makes any difference in your decision. The Saleri pump does not come with new mounting hardware. I plan to re-use the nuts with my Saleri unit.

[Reasoned1]

I've ordered thousands of dollars of parts from FCP Euro over the last couple years and never had a problem with shipping--packaging was fine and quick delivery. In fact, the free shipping option always seems to get me my parts in three days or less. I just returned some parts recently (I ordered the wrong screws), and the process was easy, and my credit card was credited within a week. I've never had to deal with them by phone, but they seem to run a tight ship. I also like their website, and they're usually the price to beat. I imagine every company may screw up occasionally...

[slam]

Only real thing I saw different were FCP euro has the Modine expansion tank for about $15 bucks over the cost of the Behr. Has anyone used this Modine and is it better that the Behr?



Read somewhere on e46fanatics that the modine expansion tank is identical to the oem but without the bmw stamp. i recently did my entire cooling system, went with the saleri water pump, and ordered all the parts from fcpeuro. no issues with shipping or the parts install.

[SaltyNC]

Read somewhere on e46fanatics that the modine expansion tank is identical to the oem but without the bmw stamp. i recently did my entire cooling system, went with the saleri water pump, and ordered all the parts from fcpeuro. no issues with shipping or the parts install.

I ordered a Modine from FCPEuro. You can literally see where the BMW paper part number sticker was removed and where they Dremeled off the BMW imprint in the mold. No kidding. It's the real deal. I had ordered a Behr model from ECSTuning, but when it came in, it sucked. Quality was not good at all, and I asked 50's Kid if the one he installed had held up, and he said it leaked soon after installing it. ECS took the Behr back with a prompt refund. The Modine model doesn't come with a cap or level sensor.

[SaltyNC]

BTW, it's interesting that the Behr cap has holographic stickers, etc. that proclaim it is elite or something like that. I guess even Behr wants to separate their crappy Chinese parts from their high quality parts. And I'm not picking on the Chinese. They make very nice parts, as well, but the Behr tank isn't one of them.

[Kimber]

Thanks guys I think I am going with that Modine for sure (and I have a new sensor in my list and will be using the GAS 1.2 cap)

Now just trying to figure out the best water pump and I can put my order in. Just can't see spending so much on the Stewart.

[Kimber]

I decided to just go with the GEBA water pump as it is cast steel and not welded. I couldn't see paying for BMW or the Stewart.

[JohnnyGraphic]

I decided to just go with the GEBA water pump as it is cast steel and not welded. I couldn't see paying for BMW or the Stewart.

Good call. The Geba unit is quite hefty. Once you get it, you’ll see how solid and heavy it is.

I debated whether to use the Geba or BMW unit and ultimately decided to go with the BMW unit.

[Kimber]

My order from FCP Euro came in literally one day and was packaged well with no damage. Waiting on manual trans fan shroud from ECS and everything goes in next weekend. Thanks for all the input and advice guys!

[SaltyNC]

FCP Euro has multiple warehouses. I had the same thing happen with an order using their free shipping option.

[JohnnyGraphic]

My order from FCP Euro came in literally one day and was packaged well with no damage. Waiting on manual trans fan shroud from ECS and everything goes in next weekend. Thanks for all the input and advice guys!

Best of luck to you on the DIY. Keep us updated on how it goes.

[Kimber]

Just wanted to thank everyone for their help and give you guys an update on the refresh. Everything went very well. With two of us working we had pretty much everything removed and reinstalled in under 3 hours. (I really didn't do all that much but hand him tools and parts LOL) This included removing my front bumper and my AUX fan to do the fan delete mod.

He also scoped my engine to see if I wanted to do a walnut blast, but said it was in really good shape (same with throttle body) and there was no need to spend the money. Good to know. :)

I had a check engine light come on a couple weeks ago literally at the same time my windshield washer's wouldn't spray. I assumed it was the pump, and it was, spraying fine with a new pump now. BUT the light was actually for a bad thermostat according to his scanner. Just coincidence that the washer pump went at the same time. (I guess I should have used my torque app and checked it, lesson learned)

Removing the old intake and installing the new Mishimoto took the longest, about an hour or so, as the fit was just horrible and we had to cut a lot of the top tube to finally get it to fit with my AfE CAI. Sadly it did not get rid of the whistle I have, just moved it higher by about 200RPM LOL. So I guess I just have to deal with my fake turbo noise around the 1700 thru 1900 RPM mark. :) I really wish there was another silicone option out there that fit better. You would think for just over $100 that they would have this design figured out by now. The lower boot just doesn't come off at the right angle, thus really messing up the top boot angle. I can deal with having to cut a little length, but the angles are just all wrong.

Only other problem was that we had some air issues when filling the coolant. I'm not sure what happened exactly as I was swapping my AUX fan into the new manual trans shroud I ordered when he was filling it up. But he said everything was good and it was running fine until I pulled it out of the garage and it pegged HOT and red light came on. I shut it down and he tried to add some more 50/50 mix I had left over but we still had the pocket. He ran it for a minute or so but nothing would fix it.

So I brought up the video you guys mentioned and we went over it. I guess he never had that problem before, but we finally got the air out. Ran out of distilled water/coolant mix, but he had some coolant and we just used regular water as he had no distilled. It took very little of that regular water/coolant mix to get the final air bubbles to stop. And everything was good then.

I haven't really drove it much since then, but temp was perfect for the hour ride home, and I can't see any leaks from a quick check. I plan on detailing the engine bay hopefully this weekend, so I will then be able to really check for any leaks, etc.

Oh, and I could not tell a difference from the addition of underdrive pulley's. I didn't really think I would, it was more to get rid of the plastic stock stuff.

So thanks again everyone. I feel much more comfortable now knowing everything is replaced with good quality parts and I should get a good 5 years plus out of all this now. In the end I spent roughly $600 on the cooling parts (plus 100 for the Mishimoto intake tubes and 100 to swap my AUX fan) My hoses and expansion tank were all in really good shape (must have been replaced by PO) so I kept those as a quick fix if something happens down the road. The tech only wanted $300 for labor as he was just doing it as side work. I could have done this myself, and will next time for sure, but this is my first BMW and it's nice to have a tech there going over it with you the first time. :)

[PetesZ]

Good to hear. This was one of the first things I have done with both cars. About the easiest job once you see it. I did use the behr expansion tank and have not had an issue. Second car has the fcp brand as it was on clearance and actually cheaper.

Second car had 123k miles on all the components. Very crusty hoses and belts.