M3 Gauge Cluster Retrofit Thread

[cakM3]

I posted this procedure in my Mystic Adventure project thread and decided that for those wanting to do this retrofit for their non-M 3-series E46 BMWs it would be much easier for them to look here in the DIY section for the procedure I used to have a fully functional M3 gauge cluster working in my ZHP so here it is :cool

There are other options in getting the same results without having to splice into existing wiring. Mirza (Terra) has done the M3 gauge cluster mod to his ZHP when he had a ZHP but he did his by programming his DME to work with his gauge cluster. This, to me, is the best way to do this retrofit as it would truly be a plug and play solution however those who know how to program the gauge cluster/DME to work have not shared information so others could do this retrofit and when I reached out they have not responded so this is why I wrote up this DIY so that others will have the ability to do this mod if they want.

I have to note that the procedure I used below originated from Dimitri Rukhadze when I purchased his adapter module so Dimitri get's the credit for this procedure. I just cleaned up the directions a little bit so that it is easier to understand... :)

Disclaimer: By using this DIY to install an OEM M3 gauge cluster on your BMW, I am in no way held responsible for any mishap you may incur while working on your car. You accept full responsibility for your BMW when using any portion of this DIY.



Preliminary Step:
1. Start out by sourcing an OEM M3 gauge cluster with either a 23H or 24H code on it. I got a cluster with the 24H code on it (pictured below)
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211013/6bbb8ae0851590728e3c573729966ce7.jpg


2. To mod the door open indications for 4-doors (sedan and touring owners only), send the gauge cluster to Kassel Performance.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51569985422_6978cb126e_c.jpg
https://www.kasselperformance.com/contact/

3. To change the VIN and mileage as well as adjust the red line LEDs to 7k RPM, send the M3 gauge cluster to Fixels in North Carolina (you will also need to send your LCM module for the VIN/mileage update). Paul does awesome work and is highly recommended for this job :thumbsup
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51569985412_329afab0cd_c.jpg
If you don't have a Facebook account then you can send Paul an email here: blackknighti30@gmail.com
https://www.facebook.com/Fixels

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211010/2c35b8e52d1598bd4b236b0dc05d44c8.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211010/f700ccfa65f9cd4d288fecebe213f3ed.jpg
Here are a few pictures showing Paul's work (above). Notice the red line RPM LEDs updated to 7K RPM and no tamper dot on my gauge cluster [emoji41]

4. Order the adapter interface module for the M3 gauge cluster from Dimitri Rukhadze in Vienna, Austria. He charged me 95,64€ for the module and wiring harness adapter. His email is: drukhadze@gmail.com

I told Dimitri the M3 gauge cluster was going into a 2004 US spec 330i 6-speed manual Performance Package (ZHP). He took it from there :thumbsup
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51504307768_a79c88abc6_c.jpg
This is what the interface module and wiring loom that you will receive from Dimitri looks like. It takes about a week for him to produce this and then send it back to you.


Procedure:
I found the instructions a little confusing at first so I rewrote them to better understand the process to connect the wiring loom into the car's wiring. Fortunately all the connections needed are done to one plug (X11175 Dual Row Black gauge cluster connector).
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51572268132_f19997e943_o.jpg
X11175 connector plug is the black one to the right (picture above) as you're facing the spot where the gauge cluster is mounted. The picture above shows the interface module completely connected and is tucked away in back to the right towards the radio head unit. There is enough space to tuck the adapter module there without causing any issue...

Here is the direction I rewrote to document the process I used when installing this interface module (all wiring was labeled):

CAN BUS Connection:

Remove the can-bus wires, pins 9 & 10 on Plug X11175, then connect them to the DME CAN H/L wires. At the same time plug in the IKE_CAN_H/L wires (yellow wires with pins on them) into the vacant pin 9 and 10 contacts on connector plug X11175 (explained in steps below).

1. Remove IKE CAN H wire from pin 9 on plug X11175 and insert wire from wiring harness labeled IKE CAN H (Yellow/Red wire) into pin 9 of plug X11175.

2. Remove IKE CAN L wire from pin 10 on plug X11175 and insert wire from wiring harness labeled IKE CAN L (Yellow/Brown wire) into pin 10 of plug X11175.

after completing steps 1 and 2 you should have this (shown in picture below):
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51574004615_b615baaa30_o.jpg

3. Take the DME CAN H wire (Blue/Red wire) and attach this wire to the IKE CAN H wire (Yellow/Red wire). I soldered these wires together and used heat shrink to seal the solder connection (see below picture).
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51574004610_909365ea9e_o.jpg
4. Take the DME CAN L wire (Red wire) and attach this wire to the IKE CAN L wire (Yellow/Brown wire). I soldered these wires together and used heat shrink to seal the solder connection (see picture above).

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51504330708_4af5beb7d3_b.jpg

5. Source for +12v1 supply must be chosen, so that the battery do not discharge constantly if engine is off. Good choice, key position R (terminal R). Tap into wire from Pin 6 of plug X11175.

6. + 12v2 supply is source from key position II-Ignition (terminal 15). Tap into wire from pin 5 of plug X11175.

7. TÖNS Cable (white with green stripe) is for Oil level Sensor, used mostly in cars with non M54 engines. Tap into wire from pin 17 of plug X11175.

For steps 5, 6, and 7 (above), I followed the chart below:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51500593146_a51f2f3cb5_b.jpg

8. Ground (brown wire) can be tapped into ground (brown wire) on pin 1 of plug X11175.



Dimitri added this comment: "If possible, don't place the module directly behind the speedometer. If possible, somewhere
below of speedo, behind the footwell cover. I place it in my car left from OBD Plug."


I had tucked my module behind and to the right of the gauge cluster by the radio head unit as there was space there without causing any issue and the module was secure being there.


The pins on the chart correspond to the plug. Only wire not used was the reverse wire (not needed for manual cars).

With the interface module connected to the car's wiring loom, this diagram applies...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51501305804_c9240e78b2_b.jpg

For comparison this is the generic BMW E46 diagram:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51501305794_585f7a50e5_b.jpg

Once everything is plugged in, this is what you should see:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51504996865_38b0205b85_b.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51503268352_638d32b92c_b.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51504996870_5951e713d4_b.jpg

video link:

https://flic.kr/p/2mtfZBc

This mod is reversible and you can put back your original gauge cluster if you ever sell your ZHP. This thread was posted for the purpose of helping others to do this retrofit as there have not been too much information available for easy access other than programming. This procedure outlines another option you can do to get the desired result from retrofitting an OEM M3 gauge cluster into your non-M car. :thumbsup

With this mod you have functioning oil temp gauge, coolant gauge all the other gauges work as expected. The oil warm up LEDs are functional as well as the shift lights. When rowing thru the gears at WOT and approaching red line you see the shift lights work as they are supposed to. It is very difficult to consider videoing while rowing thru the gears so I will have someone assist when doing thing sometime...

Since doing this mod to my ZHP, I learned another good feature of modding an OEM M3 gauge cluster is if your engine coolant temp reaches red line all the RPM LEDs will start flashing to alert you. I found this to be an added benefit[emoji1417]

Hopefully this thread will be helpful for others wanting to do this for their rides :thumbsup


credits:
1. Raymond Liu for connecting me to Dimitri for the adapter module and wiring harness
2. Mark Spencer for selling me the modded M3 gauge cluster that started this project
3. Paul Martin of Fixels for setting up my gauge cluster with proper red line LEDs and VIN of my car
4. Dimitri Rukhadze for producing the interface module without which this retrofit would not be possible. :thumbsup

[WOLFN8TR]

Look Good!! :thumbsup

[cakM3]

Look Good!! :thumbsup

Thanks Gary!

[HugginsRacing]

I completed this work today as well, thanks to threads here and on e46 fanatics. All work done myself.

here is what I ended up with:
Warm
38551

Cold
38552

Night
38553

4-door LED's populated
38554

Testing LED's on used donor cluster
38555

Process:
Purchase used M3 cluster
Purchase used donor cluster (from any e46)

Purchase about $200 in tools, because why not.

Read this thread:
https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/diy-m3-cluster-into-non-m-retrofit.1277945

Execute as follows
Disassemble clusters
Harvest LED's and Resistors from donor cluster and install on M cluster. Ensure you harvest the RED led's and not the yellow ones (doh!). LED's added for rear doors and LED colors changed for redline @ 6500.
Remove EEPROM chip from M cluster and flash VIN/MI to "virginize"
Reinstall EEPROM and Reassemble
Install in car and confirm functionality.
Code VIN to cluster using PA soft
Mileage is flashed over from LCM if you have the LCM correctly configured, most of the time. (On pre 01 cars with the ZCS instead of FA this was not the case, but my LCM was borked also, so I just flashed the miles directly onto the eeprom)


Optional Steps
Code coolant temp gauge for accuracy (PA soft)
Code speedometer for accuracy
Replace DME with one configured to control the shift lights and redline LED's. Before this step the cluster will work fine, just show the stock S54 redline and the warmup lights/shift lights will not work.







I don't understand the 24h requirement. This is a 23h cluster and it appears to be working fine, however this is in a non-zhp Touring. That might be a MS45 issue, i'd love to figure that out.


One additional note to add - If you are willing to convert your car back to MS43, the shift lights and warmup lights can be made to work quite easily. Its is not a difficult task to "downgrade" the car, requiring two harnesses that are easy to aquire at the JY right now. This is how the Touring works with the ZHP engine, which runs fine on MS43 330i software.

https://www.bimmerworld.com/MS45-to-MS43-Conversion/?fbclid=IwAR3s3Nyf5Zf2cxk2ljtlRaDzvDj2kJpvjay7fGCx 1X6TGULjVfK23SQG95U

This would avoid the need for the box from europe, and remove the need for any wiring splicing/modding. It would require a good amount of work under the hood to re-loom the engine. About 20 min with the engine out of the car, but much more with it installed (the knock sensors are damn near impossible)

I also expect that Fixels could do the 4 door LED's also, and Kassel could do the redline LED and Coding.

I'm a nobody, but I could do all of this for someone else if there was interest. Took me about a day to figure it out, but would go much quicker now that I've got it down.

[BADCLOWN]

Thanks Charlie for condensing the info into one thread and additionally thanks to Huggins for providing insight into another option for getting this to work as well.

[cakM3]

I completed this work today as well, thanks to threads here and on e46 fanatics. All work done myself.

Process:
Purchase used M3 cluster
Purchase used donor cluster (from any e46)

Purchase about $200 in tools, because why not.

Read this thread:
https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/diy-m3-cluster-into-non-m-retrofit.1277945

Execute as follows
Disassemble clusters
Harvest LED's and Resistors from donor cluster and install on M cluster. Ensure you harvest the RED led's and not the yellow ones (doh!). LED's added for rear doors and LED colors changed for redline @ 6500.
Remove EEPROM chip from M cluster and flash VIN/MI to "virginize"
Reinstall EEPROM and Reassemble
Install in car and confirm functionality.
Code VIN to cluster using PA soft
Mileage is flashed over from LCM if you have the LCM correctly configured, most of the time. (On pre 01 cars with the ZCS instead of FA this was not the case, but my LCM was borked also, so I just flashed the miles directly onto the eeprom)


Optional Steps
Code coolant temp gauge for accuracy (PA soft)
Code speedometer for accuracy
Replace DME with one configured to control the shift lights and redline LED's. Before this step the cluster will work fine, just show the stock S54 redline and the warmup lights/shift lights will not work.

Appreciate you posting how you were able to do yours including pictures Chris. When I posted how I did this retrofit along with the procedures I used, I was hoping others will contribute to this thread as you have by posting other ways in which to do this retrofit...well done! :thumbsup



I don't understand the 24h requirement. This is a 23h cluster and it appears to be working fine, however this is in a non-zhp Touring. That might be a MS45 issue, i'd love to figure that out.

I saw this somewhere while searching for a solution which worked best for me when retrofitting my OEM M3 gauge cluster into my ZHP...



One additional note to add - If you are willing to convert your car back to MS43, the shift lights and warmup lights can be made to work quite easily. Its is not a difficult task to "downgrade" the car, requiring two harnesses that are easy to aquire at the JY right now. This is how the Touring works with the ZHP engine, which runs fine on MS43 330i software.

https://www.bimmerworld.com/MS45-to-MS43-Conversion/?fbclid=IwAR3s3Nyf5Zf2cxk2ljtlRaDzvDj2kJpvjay7fGCx 1X6TGULjVfK23SQG95U

This would avoid the need for the box from europe, and remove the need for any wiring splicing/modding. It would require a good amount of work under the hood to re-loom the engine. About 20 min with the engine out of the car, but much more with it installed (the knock sensors are damn near impossible)

Not many will resort to doing this but it is interesting that you posted this as a way for someone to consider...



I also expect that Fixels could do the 4 door LED's also, and Kassel could do the redline LED and Coding.

I never thought to ask Paul @ Fixels if he would do this or that Kassel would do the redline LED and coding... I suppose you can ask. :thumbsup



I'm a nobody, but I could do all of this for someone else if there was interest. Took me about a day to figure it out, but would go much quicker now that I've got it down.

Appreciate you offering to help others Chris! That's what this is all about :thumbsup



Thanks Charlie for condensing the info into one thread and additionally thanks to Huggins for providing insight into another option for getting this to work as well.

Thanks Jacob! I feel it was about time for this thread :cool

[HugginsRacing]

I saw this somewhere while searching for a solution which worked best for me when retrofitting my OEM M3 gauge cluster into my ZHP...




Its been bothering me all day so i've been researching. I'm cutting up a spare harness I have to make a "bench car" where I can hook up EWS, KMB, LCS, and the DME together to manipulate in my office.

Anyways, I stumbled across this - its more conjecture, but it seems to fit.


..... for anyone else that is struggling with cluster issues or is swapping clusters. So I managed to get the 02 cluster working on my 03 but in the end I had to get an 03+ cluster and swap my mileage chip over.

The reason being is that 99 to 02 use the ZCS programming to code the cluster and modules and the 03+ use FA style. I tried so many times but you cannot convert or reprogram the older clusters to the new style of programming. What happens is that if the rest of the car is FA/ new style programming, the older ZCS style cluster will work but it will cause the rest of the modules to malfunction. In my case, I got the older cluster to work but I kept having abs and steering sensor codes that re-occured. Decided to try a new style cluster and code that to my car and recoded all the modules again and I haven't had any abs or steering sensors codes since lol.

So basically this is all a waste of time, make sure you get a 99 to 02 cluster if you own those years or get a 03 to 06 cluster if you own that year. Then swap the mileage chips over via soldering. Then use ncs encoder to recode the new cluster and all the modules following DIYs



So my current setup is a ZCS car running a 23H cluster (so 03+ if I understand correctly, meaning a FA device), along with a index 37 LCM (another FA device). Meaning I put new into old, which apparently works.

My only FA car is the spec build which is currently in 100 pieces waiting on a cage, and the harness is pretty thinned out, so not really any way I can test Old into New. Since everyone on this forum is in the "old into new" or "new into new" boat, I bet thats where the 23/24h suggestion came from.



The more I think about it though, the more I think that person might have just had some coding issues remaining. There were many variants at first (Mk20, Mk60, etc) and if he had a MK20 cluster in a MK60 car, that would explain the issue. However, I don't believe any M3 came with MK20, so that doesn't explain the matter in relation to M3 cluster swaps.

[cakM3]

Chris, compared to the way I did my retrofit all this is a lot of work just to get the OEM M3 gauge cluster to work. I mean the process in which I did my M3 gauge cluster retrofit into my ZHP was work in that I had to send my gauge cluster out to have the work that needed to be done to it (VIN/mileage programming, LED RPM lights changed out and additional LEDs/resistors added for the two additional doors)... then I sourced an adapter module to splice into existing wiring so doing it my way was not plug and play either...

I suppose if you had the resources to virginize the gauge cluster and then program the DME like Mirza (Terra) has done then this might be more or less plug and play... I just don't have the programming knowledge Terra has to make this work thru coding so how I did the M3 gauge cluster retrofit using my DIY was, to me, the easiest way to get the same results :thumbsup

I am glad you posted other ways to get the same end results so that anyone, depending on their skill level, can come to this thread and get their information. :)

[HugginsRacing]

Agreed. Converting your street-driven MS45 car to MS43 is not for the faint of heart. You would (probably) not do this purely for the M3 cluster, you would need to be interested in the other "benefits" as well.
Some of the how-to I wrote is a bit simplified because there are other changes (like the secondary air) which are not like for like. It was easier for me in both cases since I was putting a MS45 "engine" into a MS43 car, or putting MS43 into a MS45 race car.

The issue is really that MS45 isnt "cracked" yet. The community have a tool (Developed by Terra) that can flash the DME, but in my research there wasn't a way to do the EWS delete, nor is there the widespread support for program changes that the MS43 DME has. EWS is gone gone gone no matter what firmware you are running, and the community flash tool is fast and easy. It was pretty much a no-brainer from my perspective, since I've been tuning on MS43 since 2017ish, and most of my race car tune tricks ported over nicely.


The actual cluster work (led's and chip) is pretty easy if you have the dexterity and patience for it. The second time I virginized my cluster (after it took the wrong mileage from my non-stock LSZ) I'd guess it took about 30 minutes from start to finish.

[RUS_ZHP]

Charlie, thank you for documenting this project and sharing it with the family. M3 cluster is a cool update for your beloved ZHP.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[sna77]

This is awesome, great work Charlie!!

[johnrando]

Awesome!

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

[cakM3]

Charlie, thank you for documenting this project and sharing it with the family. M3 cluster is a cool update for your beloved ZHP.
Sergy, this is an awesome upgrade for any non-M 3-series E46 BMW...it's about time there was a step-by-step DIY on how to retrofit an OEM M3 gauge cluster... ;)


This is awesome, great work Charlie!!
Steve, you have done some amazing work yourself and have posted good easy to follow DIYs in the past. I'm just happy to contribute to the community. :thumbsup



Awesome!

This has your name all over it Rando... your ZHP needs this upgrade......... Hieu is there to assist ;)

[johnrando]

Ha! I will skip this one, but nice werk

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

[cakM3]

Ha! I will skip this one, but nice werk

It will look great in your vert, especially when you see those shift lights work as you're rowing thru the gears.... it's the little things that help make the ride that much more enjoyable :cool

[johnrando]

It will look great in your vert, especially when you see those shift lights work as you're rowing thru the gears.... it's the little things that help make the ride that much more enjoyable :coolLIKE

Sent from my SM-F926U1 using Tapatalk

[DaveZHP]

Hi Charlie, were you able to resolve the issue with the low oil level light? I appreciate your feedback!

Thanks ��

[cakM3]

Hi Charlie, were you able to resolve the issue with the low oil level light? I appreciate your feedback!

Thanks ��

I never had an issue with the oil level light. Everything is working as expected. I just need to dial in the Engine coolant temp gauge thru coding. I just have not gotten to it due to other projects/work/available time... now that it's cold as a witche's tit outside, I'll just wait until weather is warmer outside....

[Galapolis]

Someone is now offering M-Style conversions for non-M clusters in Germany: https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/bmw-e46-m3-look-tachoumbau-316-330i-inkl-dieselmodelle/1917821993-223-6215

Pics for preservation purposes.

3885738858388593886038861

[san]

Hmm, I quite like that. Wonder if they offer the speedo in MPH.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cakM3]

That is an interesting solution, thanks for sharing! :thumbsup

Does this solution have functional shift lights like I have in my M3 gauge cluster?

[Galapolis]

That is an interesting solution, thanks for sharing! :thumbsup

Does this solution have functional shift lights like I have in my M3 gauge cluster?

He says you can option shift lights (optimized for 1/4 miles, whatever that means) and knock lights (I assume for knock detection on turbo builds). You can also customize the gauge face, which I think just means you can bring any gauge face you want and he will work with it.

This solution probably works very similar to that Schmiedmann unit that is no longer available, so it's nice to have something like that again for those looking. I'm sure international shipping can be arranged for those interested, sellers like that tend to be quite flexible.

[CoastalJay]

Charlie, thanks again for pulling this documentation together, as it inspired David and I to get the M3 clusters for our respective Sedan ZHPs! Can’t wait to get this wired up and see it in action!

The modules from Dmitri arrived today, and I followed your directions which are great, but have to ask; what is the white molex connector mid-way through the harness used for (pointing to it in the photo)? I’m not seeing a reference to it in the write up, and just wanted to make sure it’s not supposed to be used.

Also, FYI, Dmitri changed the wire colors a bit on us, haha. All good, will trace wires back and the orientation is the same from your photos, so won’t be a problem. [emoji41]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220610/adc3cc341a3214953e56b7e71f83df30.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cakM3]

Charlie, thanks again for pulling this documentation together, as it inspired David and I to get the M3 clusters for our respective Sedan ZHPs! Can’t wait to get this wired up and see it in action!

The modules from Dmitri arrived today, and I followed your directions which are great, but have to ask; what is the white molex connector mid-way through the harness used for (pointing to it in the photo)? I’m not seeing a reference to it in the write up, and just wanted to make sure it’s not supposed to be used.

Also, FYI, Dmitri changed the wire colors a bit on us, haha. All good, will trace wires back and the orientation is the same from your photos, so won’t be a problem. [emoji41]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220610/adc3cc341a3214953e56b7e71f83df30.jpg

The white molex connector mid-way on the harness is not used so don't worry about it. It is just there to secure the connector on the harness while in shipment. At least that is what I found when I got mine because the end of my harness was connected to this connector when I took my harness out of the package Dimitri sent me.

I'm glad you're able to use my DIY to make the OEM M3 gauge cluster work in your respective ZHP's. Please post pics of your setup when complete. I am interested to know your thoughts in using this DIY to make your mod work :thumbsup

[CoastalJay]

Okay great, that’s what I was assuming, but it seemed kind of odd that the extra molex connector was for keeping the harness tight. Thanks for confirming!

Will post pics of the install once complete. [emoji41]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cakM3]

Okay great, that’s what I was assuming, but it seemed kind of odd that the extra molex connector was for keeping the harness tight. Thanks for confirming!

Will post pics of the install once complete. [emoji41]

Looking forward to pics and your comments regarding your install and use of my DIY [emoji41] Have fun modding your ZHPs! [emoji1417]


Sent from my iPhone 11 Pro Max using Tapatalk Pro

[cakM3]

Okay great, that’s what I was assuming, but it seemed kind of odd that the extra molex connector was for keeping the harness tight. Thanks for confirming!

Will post pics of the install once complete. [emoji41]

It's been a few months . . . did you guys get your M3 gauge cluster installed? Waiting patiently for your pics :)

[cakM3]

Hard to believe I did this retrofit back in October 2021. It is now July 2023 and so far my M3 gauge cluster has been working flawlessly. The interface module Dimitri has produced has been working troublefree all this time. So far I have no complaints as everything I want for my M3 gauge cluster is provided... oil warm up lights, shift lights, oil temperature and ability to program my gauge cluster for more accurate speedometer/coolant temp indications.

Having this retrofit adds to my ZHP as it is the "Performance Package" BMW 330 in my opinion. Just wanted to put my long-term input regarding this particular retrofit. It will cost some money to have this retrofit but to me it is well worth it. :thumbsup