What brakes/rotors do you use on your BMW?

[nike001]

Sorry if this seems to be a newb question... but in the end of June, my inspection runs out. Last inspection, the mechanic told me that my rotors just barely passed inspection.. so I need new ones before this inspection.

I'm aware that there are endless possibilities for rotor + pad combinations. I'm just dumbfounded by what ones are good/bad etc.

I've been wondering around numerous sites and found these on ECS's website:
Front:http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Braking/OEM/ES260752/
Rear:http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Braking/OEM/ES260753/

If you have any suggestions that won't break my wallet, feel free to enter in your recommendations.

Thanks all:applause

[Marcus-SanDiego]

Dalton, are you only driving on the streets? If so, I would say stick with the stock pads and rotors. They've always served me well.

[nike001]

Yeah, only streets. For now.. lol

My only problem with OEM is that their rotors on ECS are $200. If I was going to spend that much, I might as well get the cross-drilled rotors from turner motorsports for $190...which are obviously cheaper. The Zimmerman rotors in my first post are only $142. I've never heard anything bad about the Zimmerman rotors, either.

I work at the local BMW dealer, so I'm going to try to have a serious talk with my boss who is the service advisor there and see what kind of deals they can hook me up with..

[danewilson77]

I wouldn't go to ECS. I would hook it up with Ray (Smilez), or check out the options over at AutohausAZ (ZHPMafia.com affiliate link) (http://www.dpbolvw.net/click-4193730-10701773). Just imho....

You should be able to get a full setup(lines, rotors, pads, fluid) for around $400.00.

[nike001]

I wouldn't go to ECS. I would hook it up with Ray (Smilez), or check out the options over at AutohausAZ (ZHPMafia.com affiliate link) (http://www.dpbolvw.net/click-4193730-10701773). Just imho....

You should be able to get a full setup(lines, rotors, pads, fluid) for around $400.00.

Wow, thanks a bunch dane.

the same rotors that cost $140 at ECS are $74 at AutohausAZ. I can even get the cross-drilled ones that are a step up for cheaper than the lesser model at ECS. :roundel

[Marcus-SanDiego]

I work at the local BMW dealer, so I'm going to try to have a serious talk with my boss who is the service advisor there and see what kind of deals they can hook me up with..

You should be able to get an employee discount (15%). Look in to that for sure.

[Stu]

I've been wondering this same question. I know Brembo is a world-class brake company. Brembo rotors are about $50 cheaper than OEM. Are they of the same, if not better, quality?

[Marcus-SanDiego]

Dalton, that's why we got AutohausAZ as an affiliate (http://www.dpbolvw.net/click-4193730-10701773). They should do well for us.

[nike001]

You should be able to get an employee discount (15%). Look in to that for sure.

Well, I'm going to go the cheaper route.. lol

So I guess it depends on what their outrageous price is to begin with...then see what the employee discount would set me at.

[Marcus-SanDiego]

Well, I'm going to go the cheaper route.. lol

So I guess it depends on what their outrageous price is to begin with...then see what the employee discount would set me at.

Yeah. Other places might be cheaper even with your discount. :biggrin Dealers ain't known for starting out cheap.

[nike001]

Yeah. Other places might be cheaper even with your discount. :biggrin Dealers ain't known for starting out cheap.

Yeah I know..this is why I'm shopping around other places first. Just to get a number in my head so then when I talk to my boss, I can make a decision right then. I hope they don't get me on installation though. I don't have the time/patience/knowledge to do it myself. Then sometime in July/August with a few more paychecks.. I'll be trying to get my CCV/oil-separator done, along with my cold dips from my ICV. Aghh

I'm only a porter there @ $8 an hour for 32 hours a week..and my paychecks don't even touch $500. It's going to take a while. I pray to god I don't need new tires from my camber

[Crestwood1001]

Dalton, my jeeps going for rotors and pads on monday at 9:30am, ill give you a call after to let ya know what the labor cost. The guy I use is great and I bought the parts myself, ends up being 20$ less then having them order everything.

[spencers]

OEM Textar pads and OEM Ate rotors for me! Got 'em from PelicanParts

[danewilson77]

OEM Textar pads and OEM Ate rotors for me! Got 'em from PelicanParts

I wonder if you can get those pads over at AutohausAZ.

Droid + Tapatalk = FTW!

[MrMaico]

I went from the OEM rotors and pads to the last generation BMW Performance rotors (sold out) with the PBR Ceramic pads. It is SOOOO nice not having wheels full of brake dust all the time. The ceramics don't have the initial cold bite that the OEM pads do (so they say) but imo they work great and to be honest, if there is less bite, I'm not noticing it.

My 2 cents......Barry

[Oli77]

Went with Ray's deal (Smilez).

Correct me if I am wrong Ray, but I think it was cross drilled R1 concepts rotors (?) and stoptech street pads. The price he quoted was unbelievable, he also threw in the 2 sensors and 1 liter of brake fluid and free shipping.

I did the job myself, saved about 500-600$.

It is not hard and there are plenty of DIY out there + we can help you out.

The setup is very nice, at first it feels very different than the original in that the initial bite is not there. Car brakes just fine though. I can honestly say that after a couple of month, the feel is great, the initial bite is back (almost as sharp) and more importantly, the dust is DOWN.

[spencers]

I wonder if you can get those pads over at AutohausAZ.
The pads, yes. Rotors, no.

[cakM3]

I have the BMW Performance cross-drilled rotors (front and back) and I'm using Axis pads

[az3579]

If the PO was to be believed, I have OEM slotted rotors and OEM brake pads.
Next time the brakes are due, I'm going to get a set of slotted rotors and ceramic pads for the street AND a dedicated set of slotted rotors and Hawk HPS or HP+ pads for the track.

[Crickett]

Zimmerman (OEM) blanks & OE-equivalent (I forgot the manufacturer) pads from AutohausAZ. Next set will be OE blanks w/some no-dust ceramic pads (Axis?).

And for installing them, seriously DIY it. It's an über-simple job & very satisfying!

[danewilson77]

The pads, yes. Rotors, no.

They have rotors.

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=0mk5v355vhjbdz45mvv40045&makeid=800003@BMW&modelid=1423617@330I&year=2004&cid=14@Brake%20%26%20Wheel%20Hub&gid=1896@Brake%20Disc/Brake%20Rotor

[3ZHPGUY]

I use Mintex pads and solid rotors from Bavarian Autosport. I've used these pads on three different Bimmers and always had good luck with them. The great part is they're LOW DUST and that's something any ZHP owner can appreciated. I just ran a quick online quote $381.55 + shipping. That includes front pad, front rotors (2), rear pads, rear rotors (2), front wear sensor, rear wear sensor and a can of Noise Free Brake Squeal Silencer.

Note; these pads have been on Mid Ohio and Nelson Ledges with out a problem. One thing I forgot 1 can of super blue brake fluid.

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/ss351/3zhpguy/Stuff/BavAutoBrakes.jpg

[SoarinZHP]

I know Brembo is a world-class brake company. Brembo rotors are about $50 cheaper than OEM. Are they of the same, if not better, quality?

I have a pair of Brembo rotors on my old BMW. As far as I'm concerned they suck. Either that or they can't tolerate my driving style. My ZHP appears to have Zimmerman's. No complaints.

[spencers]

They have rotors.
'course they do. Just not the ones I run. The zimmy's they have are good though.

[3ZHPGUY]

I put Zimmerman cross drilled on my last E46 and ended up with a bad vibration that I believe was related to the rotors. I had the problem with my summer tires and it never went away when I switched to my stock wheels that I used for the winter. I did quite a bit of research before I changed out the ZHP and all the track guys said stay with solid for the mass. The cross drilled look great but, I think that's about it.

[danewilson77]

AutohausAZ also carries Mintex (http://www.dpbolvw.net/click-4193730-10701773) for those that are lookin around.

[Crestwood1001]

If you DIY it it will be a bitch the first time cause depending on previous care and age of the car there is gonna be crap caked on everywhere. Just take your time and clean everything up, torque stuff to the right specs and then it will be that much easier the next time.

[zhpnsnv]

The cross drilled look great but, I think that's about it.

Agree. I've had similar issues with slotted on my MINI. After all was said and done, it became abundantly clear that the slots/holes are excellent cosmetic additions.

[Hornung418]

Glad I don't have to play 'Keeping Up with the Joneses' when its time to do my breaks. They are just now starting to squeak. Sounds like blanks are the way to go!

RootedDROIDXstatus. Come at me, bro.

[Marcus-SanDiego]

Glad I don't have to play 'Keeping Up with the Joneses' when its time to do my brakes.

RootedDROIDXstatus. Come at me, bro.

Smart man. Never play that game.

[kpro]

Hawk HPS all around and Brembo Blanks up front, and I Have the tirerack "centric rotors" with black top hats on the rear ...can't complain one bit! Virtually no dust compared to stock pads, even auto-x like this and no problems.

[nike001]

Okay, I've narrowed down my rotors. Either Zimmerman blanks or cross drilled from autohausaz (http://www.dpbolvw.net/click-4193730-10701773) or centric premium rotors (blanks) from tire rack (http://www.tkqlhce.com/click-4193730-10650627)... hmm. thoughts?

[danewilson77]

Zimmy's?

[nike001]

Zimmy Rotors and Mintex pads from autohausaz! Yay or nay?!

[az3579]

Hawk HPS all around and Brembo Blanks up front, and I Have the tirerack "centric rotors" with black top hats on the rear ...can't complain one bit! Virtually no dust compared to stock pads, even auto-x like this and no problems.

I know you didn't just say "no dust" and HAWK in the same phrase... :shifty

[danewilson77]

I know you didn't just say "no dust" and HAWK in the same phrase... :shifty

Yes....that's what she said.

[shadowpuck]

OEM, OEM, OEM, OEM.

oh, OEM. :)

no need to get cross-drilled or slotted.

slotted will simply wear your pads down more quickly; cross-drilled will be of no benefit for the street and if the manufacturing isn't perfect can fail prematurely.

many of us track junkies even run OEM equipment on our track cars (other than pads and fluid).
the OEM braking system is incredibly capable - and will hold up even to track abuse with only a few tweaks.

if the dustiness of the OEM pads isn't to your liking, there are options out there which are very affordable.
stick with OEM on the rotors and fluid.

keep your fluid fresh (flush every 2 years), keep your tires in good shape, and keep your suspension and bushings in good shape. braking performance is directly related to those components.

[MsRN]

I have OEM Performance Rotors and Stoptech pads on back, and will do the same on the front, when the OE pads wear out around 80k miles. (OE pads are fine; I just wanted to try something 'better' :rolleyes ). Were I planning to track the car, I'd run OE blank rotors, and Stoptech, Cool Carbon or Ferodo pads. I'm trying ATE fluid this time, and will change it yearly, as it's more hygroscopic than OE fluid.

For spirited daily driving, BMWs OE pads, rotors and lines are hard to beat!

[mimalmo]

Just put on Stoptech rotors and Akebono Euro pads.

[knevor]

I have the BMW Performance cross-drilled rotors (front and back) and I'm using Axis pads
I picked up the performance rotors last winter when BMW dumped them, I think it was about $50.00 a corner. What axxis pad are you running? hows the dust?

[az3579]

To all who plan on tracking their car:

I currently have slotted front rotors and OEM pads. Do. Not. Get. The. OEM. Pads. For. Track. Driving.
My brakes are completely toast after Friday's track day. I have to almost floor it for my brakes to take effect, and I don't have much OEM pad left. I used to be able to get about 3 days out of my pads and then some street driving before they were kaput. This last track day ate over half of my available pad, and they faded like crazy. The pads were fading halfway through each session and got progressively worse.

The rotors are fine. I'm not sure if I heated up the brake fluid or not; I won't find out until I bleed it again as soon as I can. I used Motul RBF600, which was supposed to withstand a lot of heat. It was not hot that day; the temperature was perfectly comfortable, so there isn't really any reason for my brakes to have gotten the way they were (wasn't this bad last time).


If I were to do it again, I would get some more resistant pads, such as Hawk HPS's, as I've had good experience with these. I would leave the slotted rotors to help cool the face, and would extend my brake ducts to better reach air to my rotors. Stainless steel lines are an absolute must to firm up that brake pedal; I could not heel-and-toe down the main straight because the pedal went sooo soft throughout the day, and still couldn't do it even during the first session. Fluid was flushed right before the event.

Shopping list:
Stainless brake lines
Hawk HPS pads (I hear HP+ is too noisy during regular use)

I've gotten multiple comments by the junkies that regularly go to the track that the slotted rotors are the ones to get. The lack of there being "holes" in the rotor make them ideal, and they have an edge over OEM blanks in the sense that they have the slots to help the gases dissipate (In the E30 I have experienced this and agree). They also say that the cross-drilled rotors are prone to cracking, so unless they were manufactured with the holes (part of the process), they are prone to cracking regardless of the brand if they were drilled after the manufacturing process.



Just a few notes after my amazing track day on Friday. I was told by the other ZHP owner in my run group that whenever I got on the brakes, a cloud of brake dust came out from my front wheels... the brakes were soooooooo black by the end of the day!

[therealm3]

I'll throw in my 2 cents. Personally I think Brakes are really hard thing to get advice from others about. Pad compound completely determines how the car stops and reacts in different situations and people like different things. I liken it to asking who is the best looking woman, or what's the best hamburger joint? Anyhow, back to brakes. I have owned a lot of different BMWs over the years and done quite a bit of on track driving as well as other high performance events and here are the conclusions I have come to:

Brake rotors: For some reason the BMW OE rotors have been better in my experience than the OEM equivalents like Brembo, ATE, Zimmerman, etc. I know they cost more, but they last longer and are more resistant to warping. plus they are coated so the hats wont rust as easily. Obviously, floating rotors or true racing set ups are much better but it seems like the thread is geared more towards stock replacement stuff.

Pads: For a true street car that gets driven hard every once in awhile its tough to beat the OE pads. They stop great and have awesome initial bite. Down side is they suck on the track and will fade quickly after a few hard stops. Ceramic pads are nice cause they don't' dust but do give up a bit of performance to the OE in initial bite. A step up and still very street-able is the Hawk HPS. It will actually dust less than OE under normal driving and has a higher torque than OE so stopping power goes up a bit. They do give up a little initial bite to OE though. They can be used on track, but beware, they wont' last long and do fade as your skills go up (C student or better). from there the HP+ is a good pad to go with cause it bites harder, has a better thermal range than HPS, and is more resistant to fading. Downside is the dust a lot and can be quite noisy on a street car. I did run these on the street on my E30 M3 as it was not a daily driver and I wanted the better stopping power for track days. Now even with stainless lines, brass bushings, and big brake ducting kit on my E30, the HP+'s would still feel soft from time to time on tracks that were hard on braking. I was borderline needing some true race pads, but skipped as the car wasn't going racing and I needed some street performance. (can't have no brakes for the first couple of stops till the rotors build heat.)

I have mostly been a Hawk pad kind of person after having mixed results with Mintex, Pagid, and EBC. Lately I have heard good things about Cool Carbon pads for combo street and track pad and may give them a shot next time around. Also the new PFC compounds are supposed to be pretty good too. Hopefully this helps a little and doesn't' muddy the water more for you.

[kayger12]

I liken it to asking who is the best looking woman, or what's the best hamburger joint?

That's easy: Brooklyn Decker and In-N-Out Burger. :biggrin