Please help.

[SureShot434]

I have a 2001 BMW 325i sport, and i was driving and went over a rail road crossing. On the other side of the tracks there was a big dip and my car went down into it and i bottomed out my car pretty hard. The car now has a bad vibration when i start in every gear. The vibration is't as bad and almost goes away when i'm running above 2,500 RPM, but if i let off the gas and down shift and give it gas again at 3,500 RPM it vibrates again. Along with the vibration there is a noise coming from the front of the vehicle. I checked all my fluids and I am not leaking any of them. I jacked the car up and looked and I could not see anything wrong. There is just marks on the metal skid plate from it scraping the road. We thought it was just a bent wheel but i'm not convinced.

[static667]

How do you feel the vibration? Is it through your steering wheel, the seat of your pants, do you feel it through your feet? Is there any new noise to accompany the vibration?

[kayger12]

Trans mounts?

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[SureShot434]

I fell the vibration through pretty much everything...the pedals the steering wheel and the seat...i dont really feel it throught the shift knob though hmmmm

[danewilson77]

I thought you said you bent a rim? No?

I think you need to look at everything suspension....

1. CAB's
2. Tranny mounts - Stolen from KG.
3. Rims - This includes balancing
4. Alignment is very likely to be off now.
5. Control Arm inner and outer ball joints.

[SureShot434]

ok i have never done suspension kind of work. How do I go about checking these?

[danewilson77]

Jack up the front end of your car....so that both wheels are off of the ground.

Grab your tire at 0300 and 0900 and give it a push/pull. There should be negligible movement. If movement/noise is witnessed...very likely your cabs are shot.

You also be able to observe inner and outer ball joint movement as well, while doing this.

Grab the tire at 1200 and 0600 and push/pull. If you damaged the wheel bearing, you will see movement here. There should be zero movement.

Balancing is tough. You can spin your wheel while its suspended and kind of look down the line of it, to see if there is gross bendage.

[SureShot434]

Ok I will do this...but how would it explain the vibration lessening and almost going away completely when i shift in to neutral and coast down the road?

[static667]

Sounds like something rotational in the drive train. It may have jarred the transmission mounts just enough to throw things out of alignment.

[SureShot434]

How would I check to see if it was in alignment?

[static667]

I meant with your drive line. In other words, transmission mounts.

[SureShot434]

Ok is there a certain way to check the trans mounts or basically just push the trans and see if it moves?

[static667]

That's one way. Look to make sure that everything lines up okay. Everything should be pretty much in a straight line. If thing seem bound up and not setting on their mounts neutrally, this could be the issue. Open the hood and look to see if the motor is sitting a little tweaked.

[SureShot434]

ok im gonna go check it out at my uncles

[SureShot434]

Well +1 for Dane...my CABs are shot to hell and i believe one of my wheel bearings are too....still would that be the vibration and noise even if the noise lessens when i coast down the road?

[static667]

I'm not certain that the wheel bearing would cause the rpm dependent vibration. It's still something that I would replace.

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[SureShot434]

Yes i plan on it i'm beginning to think (and my uncle feels the same way) that it might be a problem in my clutch ?

[static667]

Could be. I hate to say it, but it may be the flywheel. Only way to find out is by disassembling it.

Rockin' Tapatalk on my rooted Android.

[SureShot434]

ya i was thinkin of taking it to the stealership they said it would be 100 to diagnose it :/

[static667]

That sounds like a good deal. Take the guess work out of it.

Rockin' Tapatalk on my rooted Android.

[SureShot434]

ya i just hope its not gonna end up costin an arm and a leg....but i have to replace the CABs ASAP!!!!!

[Johnmadd]

Also check the drive shaft guibo, it is the rubber disc between the driveshaft and transmission. That part gets torn and speed varied vibrations definitely occur.

[SureShot434]

I will check that tomorrow im gonna just relax the rest of the night and try not to think about it lol

[danewilson77]

Sounds like a good plan

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[SureShot434]

Thanks for the help guys much appreciated. I will post back tomorrow.

[SureShot434]

So i just talked to the stealership and they said if u are member of BMW CCA then you get 50% off of parts!

[Marcus-SanDiego]

You sure it wasn't 15%?

[SureShot434]

He said 50%...the flywheel was about 800 and with the BMW CCA it was right around 400...im double checking though

[SureShot434]

ok he came back and said its right around 25 percent....the clutch kit is normally 419 with the CCA its 302....the CAB are usually 258 and with CCA they are 158. If my clutch needs replaced its gonna be right around 1164 at the stealership. I called a different steralship and they wanted 1800 to replace the clutch. I just dont think i would be able to replace it myself hmmm idk the clutch is gonna get looked at next week there. Now i just have to order somd CABs and replace them. So far AutohausAZ is the cheapest:


http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=kqwrrq25emnknurslkwzwt45&makeid=800003@BMW&modelid=1370887@325I&year=2001&cid=27@SuspensionSystem&gid=10489@Control Arm Bushing Kit (http://www.dpbolvw.net/click-4193730-10701773)

the Meyle HD ones.

[az3579]

I still think the dealership is jerking your chain. The highest percentage I've ever seen a dealer give out as a CCA discount is 15%...
My friend had a similar issue. It was the flywheel that caused the very same types of vibrations.

[danewilson77]

ok he came back and said its right around 25 percent....the clutch kit is normally 419 with the CCA its 302....the CAB are usually 258 and with CCA they are 158. If my clutch needs replaced its gonna be right around 1164 at the stealership. I called a different steralship and they wanted 1800 to replace the clutch. I just dont think i would be able to replace it myself hmmm idk the clutch is gonna get looked at next week there. Now i just have to order somd CABs and replace them. So far AutohausAZ is the cheapest:


http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=kqwrrq25emnknurslkwzwt45&makeid=800003@BMW&modelid=1370887@325I&year=2001&cid=27@SuspensionSystem&gid=10489@Control Arm Bushing Kit (http://www.dpbolvw.net/click-4193730-10701773)

the Meyle HD ones.

If you get them from az....use our affiliate link please.

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[SureShot434]

wilco but i must be blind cause i didnt see the link haha

[Marcus-SanDiego]

First advertiser on this page: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?229-List-of-Affiliate-Advertisers-at-ZHP-Mafia

[static667]

Hopefully you'll be able to get this straightened out soon. Look for a decent indy mechanic in your area to do the flywheel job. It would probably be cheaper than having the stealership do it.

[az3579]

Also, my friend says that using a used flywheel will yield you a much cheaper repair. Flywheels don't typically go bad that often, so you should be fine using a known-good used one.

[SureShot434]

Thanks for the help...i actually found an indy close by and im dropping it off today for him to look at. He said the diag fee is 33.50 :) and if he does the work its free lol he does good work on all our other cars...just didnt kno he did BMW too haha

[SureShot434]

First advertiser on this page: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?229-List-of-Affiliate-Advertisers-at-ZHP-Mafia

thanks guess i was just blind haha

[Marcus-SanDiego]

No problem.