Loose shifter

[alexandre]

Is that kind of left-right play normal ? Showing in 1st and 3rd on the video.

I know there's been a few threads about this on e46F but I wasn't sure if that 'looseness' was considered bad or it was just normal with the mileage I have. If some of you guys with the lower mileage cars could chip in I'd appreciate it.

Has anyone done the 'refresh' that's often recommended with new gaskets, bushings, etc. ? Parts are cheap ($40-50 for everything) but the job looks like a PITA...


http://youtube.com/watch?v=fZLAyLCT03A

[UdubBadger]

No that's not normal... I've owned a dozen cars, most manuals...never seen that.


- Goin' H.A.M. Mobile

[alexandre]

That's what I thought. Will look into it some more and post a DIY if I end up doing that job.

[Johal E32]

Holy crap, something is seriously messed up, I'm not sure what but that is terrible.

I wish I could help by knowing what that is..

good luck!

[alexandre]

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=681938

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7IkQeG_f1k

I'm thinking that this white plastic part where the lever attaches to the rest of the transmission might be the culprit. At least it doesn't (yet) get stuck in gear like a few threads I've seen lol. I placed an order for all the small rubber/plastic parts in the gear selector - I'll let you guys know what's going on ASAP.

[danewilson77]

Yeah...being able to go from 4th.....straight over to 6th, without moving the shifter up, is crazy.

[echo46]

Wow, that is bizarre. Let us know what happens.

[webster]

time for a SSK overhaul!

[alexandre]

Yeah...being able to go from 4th.....straight over to 6th, without moving the shifter up, is crazy.

No I can't do that lol. In the video I went 1 > N > 3 > N > 1

There's just a ton of play. Once it's in gear, it stays there, but the actual lever does move from left to right.

[llll1l1ll]

Wow that reminds me of my old E30. The bushings in the shifter linkage were so worn out that people new to the car would often stick it in third thinking it was first. You could move the shifter almost a full inch in either direction when the car was in gear. Worked fine, otherwise.

Sounds like it's time to refresh the linkages.

[alexandre]

That's what I thought. Ordering the parts and will post a DIY.

Should I do BMW Perf SSK while I'm in there ? Is it a big improvement over stock ZHP shift lever ?

[zj96sc]

Here is a brand new uuc evo3 for your comparison:

WWW.YouTube.com/watch?v=np3YXzR6PrE

[alexandre]

^very helpful, thanks

[alexandre]

I just ordered the parts needed for a shift linkage refresh along with the BMW Performance shift lever for 6-speeds.

If anyone is wondering you need the following:

2x 25117571899 $0.84 ea.
4x 25111220439 $0.78 ea.
25111222015 $16.36
25117580281 $14.89
25117529079 & 25117529078 $3.79 ea.
25111220600 $9.70
23411466134 $1.04
2x 25117519670 $2.12 ea.

and 25117528881 ($57.85) is the BMW SSK shift lever.

Will update with a DIY once I get around to doing the job.

[telijah]

Did you get all the parts from one place? Minus the performance lever, do you mind telling what you paid?

[alexandre]

I just edited my post with the prices I paid as of today at ebmwparts.com (BMW of Peabody). Cheapest I found around. Keep in mind many parts are different for 5-speed (I just saw you have a 2001) - this is for 6-speed 03-06 330. Just check the realoem diagram for 6-speed and find the equivalent on the 5-speed diagram.

[telijah]

Yeah, I knew about 5 vs 6 sp, was just looking for a general idea. Thanks for the update

[zj96sc]

Have fun with the annoying ass clips....rewarding job though. On my E30 I did just what you're doing - rebuild the linkage with all OEM except a shorter throw lever. I was very happy with those results, especially for the price. Looking forward to the pics.

[telijah]

The only annoying clip I ran into was number 3 here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AV53&mospid=47725&btnr=25_0375&hg=25&fg=05

It sheared have of the vertical wall on the locking side, which allowed that clip to slide out just enough and makes the shift arm become disconnected. I was still able to drive until I got the new clip, but MAN shifting was very difficult. It was annoying though because there is nothing you can do about the clearance above that clip, it is less than a inch from the bottom of the car.

[alexandre]

Alright so I started disassembling stuff as I don't absolutely need the car this week. I managed to remove shifter arm, that white plastic bearing, and unbolt everything exhaust/heatshield apart from those headers<>exhaust bolts. They are rusted as **** and started stripping so I postponed the job until tomorrow while Sandy's winds are building up.

All the rubber parts are completely worn, so that complete overhaul will be a welcome upgrade. There was also tranny fluid all over the place, so I'll go get the shaft seal at the dealer tomorrow.

I found this tutorial (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=900208) at E46F. I must say it's very useful, the pictures are a lifesaver when identifying the parts and geometry of the thing.

[zj96sc]

start soaking those header bolts now. they're a bitch and also like $38 each. The nuts are copper and pretty cheap.

[alexandre]

I don't have PB blaster at home, gonna pick up some at the hardware store first thing tomorrow morning and soak these nuts asap. Dealer wants $35 a piece, damn...

For future reference, part number for shaft seal is #23117531360, bolt is #11621427586 and nut is #18301737774

I am going for a drive without exhaust once everything is done and only thing left is reinstalling the pipes :D

[BimmerWill]

I don't have PB blaster at home, gonna pick up some at the hardware store first thing tomorrow morning and soak these nuts asap. Dealer wants $35 a piece, damn...

For future reference, part number for shaft seal is #23117531360, bolt is #11621427586 and nut is #18301737774

I am going for a drive without exhaust once everything is done and only thing left is reinstalling the pipes :D

Its gonna sound like a diesel truck lol...I had mine off once and cranked it up just to see what it sounded like. It wasn't to my liking at all lol

Im in dire need of doing the same overhaul my shifter also moves around an inch or so in both directions before it meets resistance. Will be the next purchase I make. Possible christmas present ;)

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[alexandre]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgBjgOTapwE

Like that ? :p

BTW, hadn't had a chance to inspect driveshaft guibo just yet. Should I replace as PM even if it looks fine ? It's a pretty expensive part.

[danewilson77]

lmao.

It was such a sleepy lil neighborhood.......until...........that.

[BimmerWill]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgBjgOTapwE

Like that ? :p

BTW, hadn't had a chance to inspect driveshaft guibo just yet. Should I replace as PM even if it looks fine ? It's a pretty expensive part.

Yep exactly like that way too much rasp for my taste lol

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[alexandre]

PB Blaster: acquired. Those bolts are getting drowned in that stuff tonight.

[BimmerWill]

PB Blaster: acquired. Those bolts are getting drowned in that stuff tonight.

If you happen to have an air wrench I would try to remove them with that as well..just make sure its a six point socket and look up what size those nuts are. Often when they get rusted a slightly larger size socket will fit but not as it should so when you start trying to remove them it will shear off the corners and you'll be SOL. Im sure you probably know this already but just sharing from my own experience.

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[zj96sc]

worse comes to worse you can swap to the next lowest standard size (basically half a step down from the right metric size) and get away with hammering the socket on before hitting it with the impact. like will said, 6pt only. can also try cycling with heat - even a propane torch might have enough umph to get them popped loose.

mine came free with a ratchet but with major force.

regardless PB blaster should get you headed in the right direction.

[BimmerWill]

worse comes to worse you can swap to the next lowest standard size (basically half a step down from the right metric size) and get away with hammering the socket on before hitting it with the impact. like will said, 6pt only. can also try cycling with heat - even a propane torch might have enough umph to get them popped loose.

mine came free with a ratchet but with major force.

regardless PB blaster should get you headed in the right direction.

Hammering on a standard has saved me many heartaches before lol

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[alexandre]

I ended up aborting the exhaust operation and just working around it. It's actually really doable with a tiny flashlight between your teeth and a small screwdriver. Only thing left is the shift rod joint. It's really cramped in there but very doable.

Will keep you guys updated!

[alexandre]

Alright, everything is out now. Third tool in this set (http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/HandTools/ScrewdriverSets/PRDOVR~0573500P/Mastercraft+4-piece+Hook+And+Pick+Set.jsp?locale=en) made removing the ring on the shift rod joint a breeze. It's really stiff though - required quite a bit of force.

My shift rod joint was completely shot! Probably why I had so much slop. Top part is the old, bottom is the new - BMW changed the design a few years ago to make it easier to remove.

http://imageshack.us/a/img213/4038/photo2012110133704pm.jpg

I forgot one of the rubber bushings, and my dealer had to order it so I'll put everything back together tomorrow with the BMW Performance SSK as a bonus :)

[BimmerWill]

Alright, everything is out now. Third tool in this set (http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/HandTools/ScrewdriverSets/PRDOVR~0573500P/Mastercraft+4-piece+Hook+And+Pick+Set.jsp?locale=en) made removing the ring on the shift rod joint a breeze. It's really stiff though - required quite a bit of force.

My shift rod joint was completely shot! Probably why I had so much slop. Top part is the old, bottom is the new - BMW changed the design a few years ago to make it easier to remove.

http://imageshack.us/a/img213/4038/photo2012110133704pm.jpg

I forgot one of the rubber bushings, and my dealer had to order it so I'll put everything back together tomorrow with the BMW Performance SSK as a bonus :)

What all did you end up removing in order to get to everything?

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[alexandre]

I basically unbolted everything that held the exhaust except the 4 seized header bolts, and slid the heat shield about a foot towards the rear of the car. From there you can access the linkage and do everything by hand. Best position to have some space to move is head towards rear of car, feet under the engine, face under the muffler. I followed this order:

- From interior, remove shift knob, boot, lever and pull out of car
- Go under car, remove the selector rod first (the part that attaches to the shift lever), then remove the shift arm (the part that is fixed and not supposed to move.
- Replace all rubber/plastic parts, reinstall

Since you've got a 5-speed it's gonna be even easier for you - 6-speeds have a different, more bulky shift arm that makes it even more cramped. Follow the E60 shift lever tutorial that I linked earlier and you should be good to go. About $50 in parts for the whole thing.

[BimmerWill]

I basically unbolted everything that held the exhaust except the 4 seized header bolts, and slid the heat shield about a foot towards the rear of the car. From there you can access the linkage and do everything by hand. Best position to have some space to move is head towards rear of car, feet under the engine, face under the muffler. I followed this order:

- From interior, remove shift knob, boot, lever and pull out of car
- Go under car, remove the selector rod first (the part that attaches to the shift lever), then remove the shift arm (the part that is fixed and not supposed to move.
- Replace all rubber/plastic parts, reinstall

Since you've got a 5-speed it's gonna be even easier for you - 6-speeds have a different, more bulky shift arm that makes it even more cramped. Follow the E60 shift lever tutorial that I linked earlier and you should be good to go. About $50 in parts for the whole thing.

Awesome thanks for the tips ill keep these in mind when I get around to doing mine.

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[danewilson77]

You guys make me feel all warm and fuzzy inside.

[alexandre]

Andddddddd it's finally done and all put back together! It's thight as hell now, what a great feeling. I also removed CDV when I was in there and what a difference. I couldn't clamp my brake line properly so I ended up with a shower of brake fluid with a non-functioning clutch pedal. That wasn't fun. Topped up the reservoir, pumped and bled the clutch, and it's all back to normal now.

When you order your parts, if you get a new shift lever (SSK or other) you won't need any yellow washers at all - BMW got rid of those and upgraded the designs to have them built-in instead. Made it much easier to reinstall everything. If you don't get a new lever you only need 2 for that - the shift rod joint (which you HAVE to change - was the cause of at least 75% of my slop) has one built-in.

Let me know if you have any questions. It took me about 4h to put everything back together, including about 1h in total for the CDV procedure (removing it, reinstalling the lines, and getting brake fluid circulating properly through the clutch lines).

Feels great to finally drive again, it's been on stands since Tuesday :rockon

[BimmerWill]

Good work sir

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[JanMatt]

Bump: was there ever a DIY put up for this?