PDA

View Full Version : Obd2 code P0171 and P0174



jreyes19
11-08-2012, 11:43 AM
I just got these codes while driving and after doing a little research they say it is o2 sensor finding that my fumes are too oxynigated,

Had any one ever recieved these codes and what are your experiences thank you



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk

danewilson77
11-08-2012, 01:10 PM
These are the most common codes found on E46. You may also have a vacuum leak, causing it to run lean.

I would inspect upper/lower intake boots first (free).

webster
11-08-2012, 01:11 PM
this post might help:


P0174/0171 is a general system too lean code, which means the engine is either getting too much air or not enough fuel in the mixture. There are a number of reasons you can have that code and they need to be tracked down.

The most common reasons for this code is either a vacuum leak somewhere in the air intake past the MAF sensor, or clogged up fuel injector(s), or a clogged up fuel filter or a weakening fuel pump

danewilson77
11-08-2012, 01:16 PM
I thought fuel issues made it run rich (rich codes)?

webster
11-08-2012, 01:17 PM
here's a great post i found from bf.c


If you haven't already, read the e46 wiki carefully (link at the top of page). It's a great resource. VANOS is BMW's variable valve timing system. The DISA valve is a device that controls air flow in the engine. Perhaps Bluebee can weigh in with some specific info on what the DISA does if you're interested, but the point is that they are completely different things. What I know about the DISA is that there is a plastic pin in the center of the butterfly valve that can get brittle and crack over time, causing the butterfly valve to flop around. This is what caused my car to throw P0174 and P0171 codes. Fortunately, the DISA is easy to replace. Unfortunately, the part is about $200.

So, I'd say your plan should be to go down the list of common "running lean" culprits. Start with your intake boots -- might as well just replace them anyway if they are original. Next, buy a bottle of Techron injector cleaner, and try that, or give it the old "Italian tune-up," as I heard it once called here -- take your car for a spirited drive, occasional high revs being the key, to try and clean the junk out. (These cars should be driven hard once in a while, it's good for them.) While your intake boots are off, carefully remove and inspect your DISA valve -- see if the butterfly valve is flopping around, if so, replace it. While all that's out, get a flashlight and little mirror, and check your oil separator -- if there's oil all over it, replace it. Check the hoses running to that, they become very brittle over time and can develop cracks, leading to vacuum leaks or oil leaks. The CCV is a pretty tough job, but it's a worthwhile DIY, and it is an extremely common failure point on our cars. In fact, if you're doing your intake boots and DISA, you might as well replace your CCV while you're at it if it's never been replaced before. The oil separator is about $50, and the four hoses of the apocalypse are about $15 each online. Also clean your MAF, throttle body, and idle control valve while you're at it. There are DIYs online for all these jobs -- it's good call to avoid paying someone for this, they'll charge you an arm and a leg for most of this work.

It's also worthwhile to buy a code reader while you're at it (I just use a cheap Autozone OBDII reader) to clear your codes and take it for a test drive to see if any codes come back.



and this thread:

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?5636-fault-code...p0174

jreyes19
11-11-2012, 04:54 PM
Ok guys
Here is the current verdict
After changing my valve cover gasket, I checked the lower intake boot and found that it was cracked and with just a little force my a finger went right through the crack I sealed the cracks with high heat silicone sealant. Also the smaller tube (i think it is a air reliever tube) broke right off. So I just put a larger tube on top of the old tube as a fix.

I reset the light and it has yet to come back on so I assume those were the problems, now I need to buy a new lower intake boot


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk

zj96sc
11-11-2012, 05:03 PM
Nice work. Pretty common failure for those codes.

13541438761 upper - $22

13541438759 lower - $11

danewilson77
11-11-2012, 05:41 PM
These are the most common codes found on E46. You may also have a vacuum leak, causing it to run lean.

I would inspect upper/lower intake boots first (free).

Yup. Duct tape also works great until you can get new boots.



:)

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

jreyes19
12-30-2012, 06:20 PM
UPDATE!!!
even with the sealant fix the light still came on

well i replaced the lower intake boot, and the lights came on again

I will go in and check the upper intake boot (should have checked it earlier, i assumed it was the lower one when i saw the cracks)

,but can it be anything else?, i have read it could be fuel pump, ccv, possible o2 sensor any input on these

also when should i replace the o2 sensors?

I dont like this light!!! lol

kayger12
12-30-2012, 06:24 PM
Make sure you have the lower hose seated properly with the tab in the groove.

I've seen a lot of reinstalls over the years where it wasn't mated up perfectly and continued to throw a code.

Sent from my kick-A Galaxy S3

danewilson77
12-30-2012, 06:25 PM
DISA seal, ICV seated properly, intake gasket, oil dipstick o-ring, oil cap gasket, brake booster lines, "F" connector on upper intake boot, or any of those lines.....

jreyes19
12-31-2012, 04:06 PM
Ok I double checked my installation and everything seemed to be in order. But can I ask you guys a question

When we were checking the engine comoartment brain storming what the problem could be, we found that this was disconnected

I reconnected it before taking the picture but could this have thrown those codes?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk

danewilson77
12-31-2012, 08:50 PM
Not sure. That will blow oil everywhere. Believe that's the vanos oil supply pipe.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

kayger12
12-31-2012, 09:11 PM
I think it's just the return for the ccv.

I would think that would change pressure in the crankcase. Not sure if it would throw a code, though.

danewilson77
12-31-2012, 09:50 PM
I think it's just the return for the ccv.

I would think that would change pressure in the crankcase. Not sure if it would throw a code, though.

Yup. I think you're right. The one I'm thinking of goes through the banjo bolt?

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

kayger12
12-31-2012, 10:06 PM
Yup. I think you're right. The one I'm thinking of goes through the banjo bolt?

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

I think so.

Sent from my kick-A Galaxy S3

Hornung418
12-31-2012, 10:24 PM
Ccv hoses will throw codes. Should clear up your issue.

From a GS3, this was sent.

jreyes19
01-01-2013, 06:11 AM
Ok, thanks guys, I reset the code yesterday and now it is a waiting game to see if the codes come back,



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk

sketchyd
01-02-2013, 06:52 PM
pull the disa valve out, it's 2 t30 screws. feel the flap for looseness/breakage. make sure the pin on the end isn't coming free.

jreyes19
04-03-2013, 12:23 PM
I have a new issue now, code p3242 and the o2 sensor

I am still searching for the other issues fix

But now my car is idling roughly

Any help on this issue

Having trouble finding stuff on google for e46 p3242

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk

Dave_B
04-03-2013, 01:17 PM
I personally had the same codes. For me it was the DISA O-Ring. Fel Pro makes a gasket that works. Just search for the DISA O-ring thread in this section or a thread created by me about a month or so ago for the same 171 and 174 codes.

These guys are right. It can be...

DISA O-ring
Either intake boot
F connector
CCV lines
VCG
Bad MAF
O2's

The only way to really test if it's MAF or O2 is a scanner that can read live data.

You can smoke test the car too, to determine the location of the vacuum leak. There are several DIY's for this as well.

With the rough idle, I'm going to guess vacuum leak.

jreyes19
04-03-2013, 02:40 PM
I personally had the same codes. For me it was the DISA O-Ring. Fel Pro makes a gasket that works. Just search for the DISA O-ring thread in this section or a thread created by me about a month or so ago for the same 171 and 174 codes.

These guys are right. It can be...

DISA O-ring
Either intake boot
F connector
CCV lines
VCG
Bad MAF
O2's

The only way to really test if it's MAF or O2 is a scanner that can read live data.

You can smoke test the car too, to determine the location of the vacuum leak. There are several DIY's for this as well.

With the rough idle, I'm going to guess vacuum leak.

I did the DISA O-ring and posted my own DIY video a week or two ago here lol
I did the Upper intake boot, the lower looks fibe

F connector?

also how do i check whether i have a bad MAF or O2 with live data, because my phone connects to the car and shows me all kinds of live data

thank you for your response it is very helpful

Dave_B
04-04-2013, 04:14 PM
Yep, that's the thread I posted the FelPro PN in.

F connector is the plastic piece that goes into the upper intake boot. When separated from the intake boot, and the 2 lines it look like a capital F.

As for the live data, I'm going to clarify with my brother, the Bimmer tech. He mentioned it to me and explained it when I was diagnosing mine but I can't remember of the top of my head.

jreyes19
04-06-2013, 08:31 AM
Ok thanks I will be double checking the f connector because I believe it is fine but never hurts to be sure lol

Please let me know about the live data I may be able to do it

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk

Dave_B
04-08-2013, 08:20 AM
Well, he couldn't tell me much other than "I just look at them and go from there" LOL.

I'm assuming he's looking at numbers pre and post cat on the O2's and not sure what he's looking at on the MAF.

Sorry I couldn't be of much more help.