BMW 330i / Ci / Cic ZHP (E46 2003 - 2006) Automatic Transmission Reliability

[danewilson77]

Anyone here heard of or had one fail on them?

Discuss.

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/ZHPTranny.png

[kayger12]

Auto trans in my '03 325i was still solid at 122k.

Fluid was never changed. No slippage or reverse issues (GM trans).

That being said, I read so many threads referencing auto trans problems/failures that it pushed me to sell and go for a manual.

Glad I did.

[danewilson77]

Auto trans in my '03 325i was still solid at 122k.

Fluid was never changed. No slippage or reverse issues (GM trans).

That being said, I read so many threads referencing auto trans problems/failures that it pushed me to sell and go for a manual.

Glad I did.

But we're those trans failures, the ones you read about, pre 2003 or post?

Williamsburg, VA > Droid DNA > Tapatalk

[BavarianZHP]

Hmmm. Perhaps MtnMan (auto was on its way out when sold) and ZHPnsnv can chime in:


Auto transmissions with 100k on them that have never been touched (or bled) scare the bejeezus out of me and bring back bad memories of replacing one (to the tune of many many many dollars). You can certainly change the fluid, but that doesn't reverse the life of what it's already gone through. Just my experience and something to look out for.
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?8943-JW77-Needs-Member-input-gt-2009-Red-Tan-BMW-128i-gt-94-662-miles-gt-13-995&p=239931#post239931

[Mtnman]

I can offer limited input. I had a 2004 Auto ZHP. I bought it from my bro in law at 114,000 miles (he had it from 30k). I had the fluid changed in the car at 120,000 miles for the first time. I sold the car at 170,000 miles. When i sold the car, i thought that i could feel the tranny starting to slip. It was most likely unnoticeable to anyone else. Honestly, it very well could have been something that was all in my head. I was constantly worried about the transmission going out because the damn things are so expensive to replace. This could have easily been the cause of my "feeling" the tranny slipping imperceptibly.

So, FWIW, i had a Feb 2004 build auto trans that lasted 170,000 miles (+) with only 2 trans fluid changes (a second change happened 5k after the first due to landscaping block in highway at 45 mph denting tranny case) For all i know, my car could still be out there toady with 200k on it.

Also, FWIW, the indie mechanic in Raleigh told me that "lifetime" to him on a BMW auto tranny is 180,000 miles.

[Ryans323i]

I can offer limited input. I had a 2004 Auto ZHP. I bought it from my bro in law at 114,000 miles (he had it from 30k). I had the fluid changed in the car at 120,000 miles for the first time. I sold the car at 170,000 miles. When i sold the car, i thought that i could feel the tranny starting to slip. It was most likely unnoticeable to anyone else. Honestly, it very well could have been something that was all in my head. I was constantly worried about the transmission going out because the damn things are so expensive to replace. This could have easily been the cause of my "feeling" the tranny slipping imperceptibly.

So, FWIW, i had a Feb 2004 build auto trans that lasted 170,000 miles (+) with only 2 trans fluid changes (a second change happened 5k after the first due to landscaping block in highway at 45 mph denting tranny case) For all i know, my car could still be out there toady with 200k on it.

Also, FWIW, the indie mechanic in Raleigh told me that "lifetime" to him on a BMW auto tranny is 180,000 miles.

I said it before, somewhere else, but I'll say it again here. I drove this car right be fore David got rid of it. Never felt any type of slippage. And I romped on it pretty good.

[Dave1027]

I have the step tranny in my ZHP. I'm not really too paranoid about it. When I begin looking at cars, my original idea was to get something with a manual tranny. I tested a few manuals including some 3 series Bimmers. After a few test drives I began to get second thoughts about getting a manual. Maybe I'm getting old but rowing through the gears just seemed like too much work. Even though I have owned 6 manual tranny vehicles over the years my last few have been automatics. Did I get spoiled? I think so. I have owned 8 automatic vehicles and none of them (knock on wood) have ever had any problems. Of all the tranny problems I have had, all of them were manuals.

BTW, as far a GM trannies go, those things are hard to break. I know somebody with a Pontiac who after replacing his radiator had a ATF leak and ran the tranny dry till it would not move forward in drive. All he had to do was refill it with ATF and it's still working fine today.

[WOLFN8TR]

Dane I'm afraid if I reply my tranny will sense a "shift" in the force and decide its time.

[danewilson77]

Dane I'm afraid if I reply my tranny will sense a "shift" in the force and decide its time.

Copy. Your message is implied then. Got it.

Williamsburg, VA, Droid DNA, Tapatalk

[Dave1027]

That other thread "Clutch replacement time" makes me glad I have the automatic.

[WOLFN8TR]

So far so good. No issues except for a occasionally a hesitation to up shift on hard acceleration. I think the Sprint Booster has modified this condition. Changed the tranny oil at 110K, it was Nasty! Shifts way better now. Honestly I love driving my ZHP with an auto, call me a wuss but I do. I usually drive in SD mode with my Sprint Booster on Green and its perfect.

[Dave1027]

Wolfn8tr,

When you replaced the ATF did you also replace the filter? What method did you use?

[danewilson77]

Wolfn8tr,

When you replaced the ATF did you also replace the filter? What method did you use?

Pan drop, filter, 5qt, magnet refresh most likely.... Unless he had it flushed. Wolfy? Ohhhhhhh Wooooooolfy!

Williamsburg, VA, Droid DNA, Tapatalk

[kayger12]

But we're those trans failures, the ones you read about, pre 2003 or post?

Williamsburg, VA > Droid DNA > Tapatalk

Both, iirc. Mostly reverse solenoid failure in the GM trans, but others more severe failures requiring rebuild.

From MMiller:
"Here is the short answer: Automatic transmissions are the bane of my existence, and the
darn thing will be the bane of yours, too, at replacement time."

"On the other hand, I have seen maintained automatics last 200,000 miles. I have also seen
un-maintained automatics last 200,000 miles, although both are very rare. There's just no
predicting with these transmissions. When you choose to buy an automatic transmission,
you also buy into the vagaries of the darn things, which is one reason technicians hate
them."

And with respect to associating the "GM" auto trans with the USA domestic trans-- "At automatic transmission replacement time, we are confronted with the reality that the local transmission shop cannot rebuild BMW automatic transmissions, even those built by GM (BMW’s GM transmissions bear no resemblance to GM transmission in domestic cars)."

[WOLFN8TR]

Pan drop, filter, 5qt, magnet refresh most likely.... Unless he had it flushed. Wolfy? Ohhhhhhh Wooooooolfy!

Williamsburg, VA, Droid DNA, Tapatalk

Will reply shortly, driving home.

Ok Im in the Crib.

My tranny took approx 7 quarts of oil. I ordered everything thru ECSTuning. I did alot of reading on how to change the oil and should you change the oil, flush or no flush etc. Proper way to flush would be to change the oil, drive it a few hundred miles then change it again. The torque converter holds oil so you don't actually drain all of the old oil. I can't even describe how Nasty the oil was at 110K. The biggest issue is getting the car high enough so you have room to work underneath safely, I used ramps and jack stands. The car has to be level for the refill to be accurate. I recommend doing this when the car is cool. It is very messy so lay down something to protect the floor, I used three hefty garbage bags and a large oil drip pan. If you have a friend to help its a huge plus. Make sure to remove the fill plug first before draining the oil just incase it will not come out after you have already drained the oil. I could not get a socket in between the tranny and the body so I used a allen socket and a wrench. Drain the oil, remove the filter, clean the pan and magnet, clean the gasket mating surface of the tranny. Do Not clean anything else inside the tranny. Make sure to not get any debris inside the tranny. The drain pan bolts are torqued to 8 foot pounds. Reinstall the filter (make sure the retaining ring is on the filter) oil pan and pump approx 6 quarts into the tranny, start the car, Foot on the Brake, shift thru the gears, get back under the car to finish topping off the oil level. The tranny oil will be at proper temp in 10 minutes if you do not have a temp probe.
Here is a link that I used to do mine even thou not the same car it is very close.

AUTOMATIC TRANNY OIL CHANGE:
http://blog.bavauto.com/11194/bmw-diy-video-automatic-transmission-fluid-and-filter-change-how-to-replace-auto-trans/

ECSTUNING OIL CHANGE KIT:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/ES2523867/ES2523867/

Oh Ya....Do Not get any tranny oil on the exhaust or the transmission as it will smell horrible for a loooong time! I even cleaned mine thoroughly and it still stunk!

[Dave1027]

Thanks for the DIY.

When you pulled the fill plug with the motor off, did atf drain out? Normally it does. I have access to a IR thermometer gun. Can I use that pointed at the pan? What temp? Would it be better to simply put my hand on the pan and when it's too hot to leave there it's good?

[WOLFN8TR]

Thanks for the DIY.

When you pulled the fill plug with the motor off, did atf drain out? Normally it does. I have access to a IR thermometer gun. Can I use that pointed at the pan? What temp? Would it be better to simply put my hand on the pan and when it's too hot to leave there it's good?

No oil came out when the plug was removed. The target temp is 130-140 degrees, my tranny hit 130 in 10 minutes of idling. You need to test the oil itself. The hand on the pan trick would work, its pretty close to the required temp.

[Washburn]

just FYI:
There's a 18-page sticky at Bimmerfest with a poll (based on mileage) on this topic - has a great amount of data there too:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=287616

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b176/nishang/at.jpg

[ranger]

My 2005 BMW 325i sedan is still going strong with STEP auto at about 200,000 miles (and no service!) - my son is driving it still when I replaced it with a ZHP.

[danewilson77]

Great news.

[Lanister]

Hey guys, I wanted to resurrect this topic for a bit longer. It seems as though some sources indicate that a simple AT fluid change is enough and others state that, because of the torque converter retaining a substantial amount of old oil, it should be flushed again right after the initial change. While it makes sense, I'm surprised that videos by Bavauto and a number of DYI's don't even mention the flush. Thoughts?

[Hermes]

It needs to be flushed probably 7-8 times to get all the fluid out. I've done it 3 times so far

Edit: also, the car must be running and in gear when filling it so the level is correct. The car needs to be in the air. I did it at my buddies shop

Pic of the valve body when I changed the filter, gasket and all the bolts
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/zhp%20projects/D2667A76-2F4C-4D7F-86A8-07524959D386-8674-00000BD8477B8CBC.jpg

[Vas]

That is going to be super expensive if you are using redline oil

[Hermes]

Yup, and I did use redline... I like my car

Eventually I'll S54 and 6MT it and prob move the M54 to the E21

Edit: The issue is you flush maybe 60% of it, so you do the flush then drive a min of 100 miles so it mixes evenly. You then flush again. You will keep diluting it but it takes a ton of oil to get it completely changed because you will never get 100% of it out.

[Lanister]

It needs to be flushed probably 7-8 times to get all the fluid out. I've done it 3 times so far

Edit: also, the car must be running and in gear when filling it so the level is correct. The car needs to be in the air. I did it at my buddies shop
Pic of the valve body when I changed the filter, gasket and all the bolts


7-8 times? What are the suggested flush intervals?

[Hermes]

You don't need to do it that much, I'm just saying if you're anal and want it 100% changed. I'll probably do it one more time (4 total) and say it's good enough. Interval for me is change, drive 500 miles, change, etc.


Going forward I will change it every 25,000 until I get around to a drivetrain swap

[ranger]

My first BMW - 2005 BMW 325i sedan auto - is still going strong with over 200,000 miles - I "sold" it to my son at about 160,000 miles when I got my ZHP (RIP). I never changed fluid, etc. I am very suspect about changing fluids in high mileage gear boxes - my theory is that we have no idea what will happen to seals, etc when you flush/change fluids, etc. I worked for a long time at a paper mill that had gear boxes still in service from the 1930s - we never changed fluid/flushed those gearboxes - just kept them topped off for that reason. I know, I am a heathen.

[Lanister]

I hear what you're saying, ranger. There's definitely something to be said about that. In my experience, the issue with seals had more to do with changing oil types. For example, going from conventional motor oil to synthetic is known to make seals leak on high mileage engines but as long as you stick with the same oil type, it should be safe.

With regard to tranny oil changes, my experience tells me that it does make a difference. I have an old 2001 Eurovan running VR6 motor and an old automatic transmission, which is known to be the weakest link of the entire vehicle. Although the manufacturer advertised it as "life-time" the transmission fails exclusively due to lack of oil changes. As such, I have been changing transmission oil every 30k and have been happily trouble free on that end well past 150k mark. What was always blatantly obvious after each change is that the transmission would shift MUCH better, smoother, and quicker. My ZHP is at 90k and I can already sense that some shifts are not the smoothest and even though I don't know how it's supposed to be (I just bought the thing) I have a strong feeling that there's are improvements to be attained through an oil change.

[Hermes]

This will also help. I put it in the 740 but not the ZHP yet. I will on my next/final change

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/18/umeze4eh.jpg

[Dave1027]

I've been running that red Lubegard in my tranny for about 6 months now. Not sure if it helps.

[Dave1027]

It needs to be flushed probably 7-8 times to get all the fluid out.
You could do it in one shot by patching into the tranny cooler lines. That's the way I did my truck's 12 quarts. Pump till you see bright red fluid coming out.

[Lanister]

You could do it in one shot by patching into the tranny cooler lines. That's the way I did my truck's 12 quarts. Pump till you see bright red fluid coming out.

That's clever. How doable is it on an e46?

[Dave1027]

That's clever. How doable is it on an e46?
Not as easy as my truck. The ZHP's atf rubber hoses are short and do require working underneath. They connect to a small cooler attached to the bottom of the radiator. I'm not sure how the connections work. If anybody has disconnected those lines, I'd be interested in how it's done. Is there some kind of clip? Does it require a special tool?

I have thought about replacing that cooler with an aftermarket one to isolate it from the radiator. If I did that then it would be simple to flush the atf and would might not even have to jack the car up.

Edit to add: I just thought of an idea that may work nicely. Cut the metal atf lines just before the rubber hose part and connect new long atf lines with standard hose clamps that go to the new cooler! Yeah!

[WOLFN8TR]

The Trans cooler is attached the the radiator by 1 retaining clip. It comes off really easy by pulling up on the clip and then pull the Trans cooler off.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/23/udazumuq.jpg

[Lanister]

The Trans cooler is attached the the radiator by 1 retaining clip. It comes off really easy by pulling up on the clip and then pull the Trans cooler off.

Do you guys see an issue with getting the transmission cooler off and draining it of old oil? Then perhaps pumping AT fluid through the oil line(s)? Is that the idea, Dave? It would seem like a much better (and cost efficient) idea than flushing it 4-7 times to get all of the oil fluid out.

[Dave1027]

No. You don't want to take the cooler loose from the radiator. That would drain the coolant out of the radiator.

What you want to do is disconnect one of the two atf lines going to the cooler. It's the two tubes on the back side of the cooler in Gary's pic. After unhooking one of those lines you attach your own hose to the disconnected tube.

[Lanister]

I wonder why no other DYI ever talks about this? Seems almost too easy. So will this get all of the remaining oil out? including oil in the torque converter?

[WOLFN8TR]

I wonder why no other DIY ever talks about this? Seems almost too easy. So will this get all of the remaining oil out? including oil in the torque converter?

FYI- If you are going to attempt this be very careful trying to remove those tranny lines from the cooler while it's attached to the radiator. Beings there is only a clip holding that cooler in place. Your almost going to have to remove it from the radiator to be able to get those lines off.

[Dave1027]

I wonder why no other DYI ever talks about this? Seems almost too easy. So will this get all of the remaining oil out? including oil in the torque converter?

Yes, it flushes the entire system in one shot including the TC. The hard part might be getting the hose off and like Gary said. I'm scared to touch mine. I onced slightly bumped it and it began leaking.

How do you get those hoses off? Use some kind of special BMW hose tool?

[Lanister]

Yes, it flushes the entire system in one shot including the TC. The hard part might be getting the hose off and like Gary said. I'm scared to touch mine. I onced slightly bumped it and it began leaking.

How do you get those hoses off? Use some kind of special BMW hose tool?

I haven't looked at the connection myself but I can't imagine is that sensitive. Perhaps someone with experience can comment.

[MrMaico]

Pretty sure you'd need one of these tools for the trans cooler lines....

http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-power-steering-transmission-line-disconnect-tool-cta-3466?gclid=CNDm6PS2w7oCFYpxQgodrkcALg

http://assets2.fcpstores.com/public/assets/products/100437/product/3466.jpg?1367597585

[diverse]

Since I am Getting an Automatic zhp I am very interested in how the automatics fair

Apparently they do pretty well. my car will have 78k when I get it.

Judging by this post I will have my shop change the fluids when I get it.

When service records indicate that fluids were changed do you think they mean ATF fluid as well?

[WOLFN8TR]

BMW considers the Tranny fluid to be lifetime so probably not. Lifetime is usually the length of the factory warranty from what I've read. I bought my ZHP with 98K, did my tranny fluid at 112K and it was nasty!. I have 125K now and so far so good. Every once in a while under high rev it hesitates to shift, it did this before and after the fluid change.

[Mtnman]

Mine did what Gary's does. All the way from 114k to 170k+. Seemed to hold a gear a half second long on occasion, but it did that the whole time. With 78k, get it. Replace the fluid. If you have the time or $ replace it again 10k later ( if it concerns you) and then be happy for another 100k. (With regular 30 to 40k changes)

[Snuffalufigus]

I am curious to see if anyone with a Step has had any issues yet? I am coming up on 150K and no problems yet! (knock on wood)

[egiles14]

Here's my personal experience... The '01 325i that I sold to my sister-in-law made it to 196k miles without ever having a fluid change, when the front pump seal in the ZF automatic failed. It never had a single hiccup and shifted perfectly until that occurred. We luckily found a used ZF transmission (with unknown mileage) for only $300. We did a full fluid change before install and its doing great so far.

My recently purchased '04 ZHP has the GM automatic with 128k miles. I plan to do a filter and fluid change soon, and I don't have any records showing a fluid change previously. It still shifts perfectly so far...

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[johnrando]

No issues yet, knock on wood.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[papa_g]

Reviving old thread. My cooler line is leaking; the one that takes atf from the tranny to the cooler. Has anyone switched out this line before? I can't seem to find any DIYs out there. If you've done it, would you say it is easy enough with the car on jack stands, or should i go rent a lift somewhere?
Also, seems like the method of pumping new atf through the cooler lines is more of a flush than a drain and fill. Some people say flushes are bad on higher mileage trannys that havent had their atf changed. Thoughts?

[Dave1027]

Should be able to do the job with jackstands.


Also, seems like the method of pumping new atf through the cooler lines is more of a flush than a drain and fill. Some people say flushes are bad on higher mileage trannys that havent had their atf changed. Thoughts?

That's really an old wives tale. Plus the "flush" that the tale describes is done with a high pressure machine. Not simply pumping new fluid in. Pumping in new fluid via the cooler lines is actually the best method because you can replace all of the fluid as opposed to a drain and fill which only replaces 50 to 75%.

[papa_g]

Should be able to do the job with jackstands.



That's really an old wives tale. Plus the "flush" that the tale describes is done with a high pressure machine. Not simply pumping new fluid in. Pumping in new fluid via the cooler lines is actually the best method because you can replace all of the fluid as opposed to a drain and fill which only replaces 50 to 75%.

cool bro, looks like i will be pumping through the cooler, since I will be removing the line anyway!

[papa_g]

OK so car is on jack stands, i've removed the old leaking cooler line by sawing through it at the middle because I could not snake it out. Now I cannot snake the new one in. I've tried releasing the power steering pump to give the line more room, but still not working. I saw the oil dipstick tube was sort of in the way so I toyed with removing it but I do not think it will make a difference. I am lost right now and could really use some help. There are no DIYs out there for replacing the cooler lines..

[Dave1027]

It may be getto but wouldn't it be easier to simply cut out the leaking rubber parts and replace just that with couplers and hose clamps?

[papa_g]

Maybe, but I already have the part and the old line is out. I a considering biting the bullet and calling a mobile mechanic unless someone out there has a solution

[Dave1027]

Somebody said on fanatics that it helps to jack up the engine a little> Do you think that would help?

[papa_g]

it might...I was hoping it would not come to that. I have to undo the engine mounts for that right?

[Dave1027]

it might...I was hoping it would not come to that. I have to undo the engine mounts for that right?

Yes. Just loosen the nuts at the subframe.

[PetesZ]

I have had great luck with resetting the adaptions.

Not a paid plug - but I had great dealings with these guys on the X3 transfer case -

https://cobratransmission.com/

I had much better access on the X5 when I pulled one of the engine mounts - you probably could do the job without - I found it to be far far easier to snake the cooler lines through.

There is a bracket near the cooler that attaches the lines to the frame - only the one.

Best you tube I have seen on e46 is the guy in Cal doing the auto to manual transmission swap on a e46 - shows you clearly where the lines go and how to remove them on a e46...

[papa_g]

Yes. Just loosen the nuts at the subframe.
Ok, I got the driver side pretty easily with a breaker bar. The passenger side is tricky with the exhaust manifold in the way. I had to go buy a universal joint socket and use a couple extension pieces with an impact wrench. No luck. I will try now, with the breaker bar. If that doesn't work, I will go from underneath, attach a wrench to the nut and hit it with a hammer til it comes loose lol...


I had much better access on the X5 when I pulled one of the engine mounts - you probably could do the job without - I found it to be far far easier to snake the cooler lines through.

There is a bracket near the cooler that attaches the lines to the frame - only the one.

Best you tube I have seen on e46 is the guy in Cal doing the auto to manual transmission swap on a e46 - shows you clearly where the lines go and how to remove them on a e46...

Yeah I tried snaking it through from both end and no cigar. But I will look up a video on the tranny swap, maybe it can shed some light to my situation.

[papa_g]

OH HAPPY DAAAYYYY. I HAVE SEEN THE LIGHT BROTHERS AND SISTERS!!! IT WAS THE STEERING COUPLER. I REMOVED IT AND VOILA! LINE MANEUVERED RIGHT THROUGH.
I am so fucking relieved good lord that was a project. I wouldn't wish that kind of frustration on my worst enemy. I jacked the engine up, but I don't think it was necessary. The steering coupler was the real roadblock in this situation. Getting it off was a real bitch, but perseverance has paid off. I may post a DIY on this, no pictures, but maybe some detailed instructions.
Now I am going to flush the oil fluid out by pumping in new fluid through the cooler. Didn't think I would pull this off good grief

[SaltyNC]

Glad you found a way, Papa G. What fluid are you using for the swap? I went with RockAuto's AC Delco Dexron VI for $3.79 per quart. Ordered 21 qts, but I needed that much to do the multiple fill and drain cycles, since I didn't pull the cooling lines off. Doing it the way you are doing it sounds the best, since it gets every bit of the old fluid out and doesn't require as much. The Dexron VI works great in the GM auto transmission. Shifts very fast and smooth.

Doing it this way, does it automatically mean you would have the correct fluid level, or would you still need to top it off while warm if some of the old fluid had previously leaked out?

Are you changing the filter, as well?

[papa_g]

Glad you found a way, Papa G. What fluid are you using for the swap? I went with RockAuto's AC Delco Dexron VI for $3.79 per quart. Ordered 21 qts, but I needed that much to do the multiple fill and drain cycles, since I didn't pull the cooling lines off. Doing it the way you are doing it sounds the best, since it gets every bit of the old fluid out and doesn't require as much. The Dexron VI works great in the GM auto transmission. Shifts very fast and smooth.

Doing it this way, does it automatically mean you would have the correct fluid level, or would you still need to top it off while warm if some of the old fluid had previously leaked out?

Are you changing the filter, as well?

Thanks Salty. I was ready to admit defeat on this one and hire a mechanic to come to my garage, or worse yet, tow the car to a shop. I'm gonna try the valvoline maxlife. It's rated dex vi as well. I heard good things. And I had some laying around so why not. I remember when you bought all that AC delco, shipping was too expensive for me, evenwith that huge sale haha. TBH, I think I will need to top off he oil the normal way, through the fill plug, after I do it through the cooler. Problem is, the fill plug is seized and I can't get it open, and there's no space to fit a breaker bar or a socket wrench in there. I ordered a set of Allen torx keys and will try that with a thin steel pipe. After that I'm lost, because if hit it with pb blaster multiple times already. Heat sounds sketchy. Anyway, here's my plan:
1. Open fill plug
2. Drain fluid
3. Remove sump & clean
4. Replace filter & sump gasket & bolt it all back
5. Pump new fluid through cooler
6. Wait until new fluid is coming out inlet line
7. Reattach inlet line.
8. Top off through fill plug
9. Take car on a drive
10. Remove fill plug and top off again.

[SaltyNC]

Sounds like a solid plan to me. You might have to let it cool down a little before topping off depending how quickly it cycles the fluid. I had INPA setup monitoring AT temp, and it climbed fast once the engine was running.

For that stuck fill plug, I used a torx bit and placed a box end ratchet wrench on it. That gets you in the tight space, and then you could put a long bar on the wrench for leverage or whack it with a dead blow hammer. The first time I removed mine, I had to whack it with the ball of my hand a few times, and it finally popped loose. It looked like it had some kind of thread sealant on it, or it could have just been some crud from years on the road thrown up on the undercarriage.

Third pic down is the setup:
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?21026-Salty-s-2005-330Ci-ZHP-Jet-Black-Coupe-Restore&p=554646#post554646

Valvoline Maxlife is good stuff.

It's sometimes a pain to take pics, especially when working with fluids, but if you happen to have a camera handy when you do the fluid swap, would love to see it in action.

[johnrando]

Glad you solved that.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[papa_g]

32415
I've been trying this, as well as with a pipe, doesnt work. I am afraid bang it as i feel the wrenches bending already, but hey worth a shot i guess.

[SaltyNC]

That's wild. I've never heard of one being stuck that bad. They're only supposed to have around 15 lbs of torque. It sounds like they used super glue on yours. When I whacked mine, it did make a cracking sound, so I kind of suspect it had some kind of thread sealer.

I have tried to think of how to word this without sounding like an insulting peckerwood, but don't know how, so I'll just say make sure you're turning it the right way. I was under the center of the car when I removed mine, and I caught myself about to turn the plug the wrong way, because I was working from the back side of the plug, and so it was clockwise to loosen based on where I was in relation to the plug. It's an easy enough mistake to make. Just trying to help. Don't shoot me. :)

[papa_g]

Nah I won't shoot you. But turns out my uncle Vinny from Atlantic City loves Lake Wylie this time of year. Maybe he pays you a visit to check on how your broken legs are healing up ;)

[papa_g]

ugh... hit it with a rubber mallet a few times and no luck. Might try taking a torch to it tonight . why should it come to this? why not put the fill plug in a more accessible area like is that a deal breaker or something???

[SaltyNC]

Nah I won't shoot you. But turns out my uncle Vinny from Atlantic City loves Lake Wylie this time of year. Maybe he pays you a visit to check on how your broken legs are healing up ;)

Life in the mafia. :) Dang, sorry it is being so stubborn.

[papa_g]

gonna try dropping the transmission just enough to fit a breaker bar in there. With a breaker bar I am positive it will crack open.

[papa_g]

With a breaker bar I am positive it will crack open...

NOPE THE DAMN BOLT DECIDED TO STRIP ON ME. WHY?! WHYYYYYYYY!!!???

*UPDATE* My cousin came over last night, I bought one of these stripped screw/bolt extractor bits and we wrenched that sucker open with that red pipe wrench in the back ground. keeping this as a souvenir haha, to remind me that nothing is impossible. Bought a new plug from the stealership for only $27...
32428

*UPDATE #2* After refilling with new Dex VI, i am amazed how smooth the shifting is. Like butter. Can't even feel it. Before there was a noticeable lurch, especially between 1st and 2nd gears.