If I were to fix all oil leaks and prevent future ones, which seals/gaskets/clamps would you replace?

[Dave_B]

So now that I think I'm over my starting issue, I'm seeing the tell tale signs of oil leaks with drops being present on my garage floor.

I'm already factoring in the OFHG, VCG but trying to determine which others should be done, while I'm there.

Pan Gasket? PS lines? Anywhere else? I'll try to gather some pics later if I can of where my leak is. Def. drivers side and likely the OFHG is the main culprit. But if I'm already in there doing these things... I'd like to get all of them done.

Also, on all of these. OEM BMW parts only? German OE parts?

On the preventative. I'm at 142k miles and climbing. I'm sure she's due for some that may not be leaking yet, but are common to do so.

[danewilson77]

I would just do VCG (do plugs, and VANOS), and OFHG. I would not do PS, or pan gasket "preventatively"...but that's me.

Victor Reinz should be fine on VCG (or BMW) and I think I just got the BMW gasket for OFHG.

[Dave_B]

DW, just to clarify... you wouldn't do it because of cost? Time to get it done? Difficulty?

I go on 2 week rotations at my office and have a work vehicle during that time. So I can have the car down for 2 weeks at a time.

@ Vanos. Besian systems. PN BS001 for seals and BS002 for rattle kit?

[alexandre]

Dave, while doing OFHG, replace VANOS oil line, 2 bolts, and 4 crush washers. It's around $45 for everything, but if it's not already leaking now, chances are it'll start soon.

VANOS Oil Line - Cohline #11361705532
Bolts - BMW #32416852469 x2
Crush Washers - Victor Reinz #32411093596 x4

Re VANOS, you can do Dr. Vanos too. Mine was done by PO and that was the company they used. Car runs perfectly.

PS lines: trim and reclamp at reservoir. Replace reservoir cap o-ring. Cost: 2 universal clamps and $1 for o-ring (BMW #32411128333). Flush the fluid with any synthetic Dex 4 ATF while doing that, it's way more convenient with the hoses off the reservoir.

[danewilson77]

DW, just to clarify... you wouldn't do it because of cost? Time to get it done? Difficulty?

I go on 2 week rotations at my office and have a work vehicle during that time. So I can have the car down for 2 weeks at a time.

@ Vanos. Besian systems. PN BS001 for seals and BS002 for rattle kit?

Cost Vs. Benefit is low Imho.

Sent from the HTC DNA, Williamsburg, VA and USA

[Dave_B]

Oil pan at RealOEM is 48. ECS has it for $27.

I can't imagine PS lines are terribly expensive.

Time? Pain in the A$$? Those I'm not so much worried about. My "sanction" is my garage if you will.

[danewilson77]

Oil pan at RealOEM is 48. ECS has it for $27.

I can't imagine PS lines are terribly expensive.

Time? Pain in the A$$? Those I'm not so much worried about. My "sanction" is my garage if you will.

They have very low failure rates on e46, and even then, failure is typically a drip, that can be a future repair.

But...

OMG... If you must.... Just dhu eet!

Sent from the HTC DNA, Williamsburg, VA and USA

[alexandre]

PS lines are quite expensive, and you need a special tool to unclamp them. Most frequent drip location is at the reservoir, hence why I recommended new clamps and that's it. But of course... Your call :)

[LivesNearCostco]

Agree with Dane, don't replace PS lines as PM, but do check if they're dripping. IIRC, there are 4. Two of them connect to the cooling coil and require the special disconnect tool, or creative use of multiple pliers. The high pressure line at the bottom (from pump to rack) is the most expensive and connects with one big (19mm?) banjo bolt and the other end might require a big (17mm?) flare wrench.

[Dave1027]

I know I'll take heat for suggesting it but before I'd start replacing gaskets I'd first try retorqing stuff like OFH, VC and oil pan. I guess I'm cheap but I like to keep things simple.

[aurelius]

While re-torquing certainly wouldn't hurt, if you're due for new plugs, then of course do the VCG and the 15 nut seals while the VC is off. And as noted above, you'd want to do the VANOS during this time. If you don't mind the car being down for a week or so, Dr. V would send back your original unit upon request.

The high pressure PS lines are expensive but the other 2 up at the reservoir are not. Note however they are 2 different sizes. You can buy it by the meter at Pelican. Note also the reservoir cap has a pressure relief hole in it and you'll never really solve the drip issue, which can make it look like you have a leak. Check reservoir ATF level with engine running. Fluid within should be red and translucent. OP: see if the drops on your floor are red?

I flushed an E46 PS a while back using the "drain and mix at the reservoir" method advocated by BavAuto but it's not very efficient and next time I'll do the drain-at-the-rack method noted in Mike Miller's maintenance document.

[Dave_B]

So consensus would be replace oil related and check PS?

Figured PS if the OFHG was being done and area there was cleared up.

VCG will def. include plugs and VANOS.

[aurelius]

In your case I'd check the color of what's dripping on the floor. If red, I'd look at the steering rack seals near the rubber boots. Also see if there is drip from where the lines connect to the PS reservoir but do not be tricked by the normal cap seep which, unless you've recently wiped it off, will be all over the reservoir.

As for oil leak consensus, these motors will all eventually leak at the VCG and OFHG but other than that, are not known for other leaks. If you do change your pan gasket, may as well make sure the oil pump nut is properly torqued. I do not have the tightening specs for the pump nut or pan bolts but maybe someone else will chime in.

EDIT: here's an E46f LINK (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=923563) to a good checklist for new E46 owners. From which is the following on power steering. Note you can use ATF rated Dex III or higher. Point here for the OP are there are 3 possible leak points due to loose PS hose clamps:

Power steering
Use ATF Dexron III only. Replace reservoir as it has integrated filter. Part number: 32411097164
Also trim and re-clamp (using new universal clamps) the power steering lines to the bottom of the reservoir and to the return line at the pump. The BMW clamps get loose over time and oil leaks/seeps out.

[echo46]

What aureluius said. The VCG and OFHG will leak at some point, so will the power steering reservoir at the clamps. I replaced the clamps and my leak vanished. As far as the VCG, when mine leaked I just replaced the VCG, the plug gaskets and all the grommets. Interestingly, when wifey's 2003 Land Rover Disco started leaking at the VCG, i just tightened the bolts and it stopped leaking immediately. I think the tightening method is just a temporary fix, though.

[Dave_B]

Definitely oil on the ground, not PS fluid, trans or any other kind of fluid.

I'll gather better pics of what I'm seeing oil leak related and post them here as well.

Now to find that stuff we all wish for... TIME!

Thanks again Gents.

[Hermes]

power steering fluid should be replaced with Dex6, and make sure not to completely fill the reservoir so it doesn't slowly expand and leak all over the place

[Dave1027]

The PS reservoir has lines on it's dipstick. The level should be between the lines.

[Dave_B]

OFHG cause this? How bad does that thing really leak? Seems like quite a bit.

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb133/00h2itr/8AF24D82-B752-4587-9ABC-753388BB668A-4461-0000019552895997_zps1c91c08d.jpg

I see the waffle which is why I ask, most point that to OFHG

[danewilson77]

It can drip, or it can fail rather catastrophically.

Drip is most common.

Sent from the HTC DNA, Williamsburg, VA and USA

[Dave_B]

Would you call that more of a drip, or catastrophic?

Looks pretty serious to me.

[LivesNearCostco]

Assuming that oil built up over a few months, I say drip. If you're making cars behind you slide off the road, that's catastrophic! (Or if your oil level gets too low while driving.)

[danewilson77]

First off.....how much oil do you have to add? That would indicate how bad the leak is.

Second....that doesn't look all that bad to me, but I recommend you fix, sooner than later. No telling when something like that will completely fail, drain your sump, spray oil all over your belts, belt jumps off pulley, car overheats, head warps......

Just one scenario I have actually seen/heard of.

[Dave_B]

I've not had to add any since oil change about 1k ago. But I did notice about 5 drops on my garage floor.

I assumed it's been seeping for a while from the PO. Just something I'll add to the list.

[danewilson77]

You also must not have the under body splash shield? Or did you remove it?

Yup...just add it to the list and take care of it relatively soon.

[Dave_B]

Yes, I've removed it when I did the oil change. It did have oil on it to.

I'm ordering the part now. :)

[danewilson77]

Copy.

[Dave_B]

OFHG done. Cleaned up some of the area as well and did put the car on ramps so I can clean more from the bottom.

Wasn't terrible. But def. use a cardboard box to put the bolts in so you can keep them in order. They are different lengths for those who have not done it yet.

[sketchyd]

That didn't look too bad for an ofhg leak. Good you got it done though.

Another note: I would not recommend just tightening any of these gaskets, as with age they eventually garden to a brittle plastic, which won't seal.

Tapped on a talk device

[aurelius]

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l584/aurelius3/Random%20BMW%20Pics/3138CA2F-9F0D-4E4E-BB00-21225ED94A1C-781-000000D05ABD4249_zps189dac7f.jpg

[alexandre]

Yup, that really wasn't too bad. Mine had way more than that... I emptied an entire can of brake cleaner on my waffles and I would've needed a second one.

[Whitexi]

Before my car was totaled it held oil as well as a colander held water.

Both front and rear main seals were toast. Glad that the OFHG went well.