Weird issue

[Kudos]

Not long ago my car started acting funny. Cluster wouldn't light properly, seat belt sign wouldn't go off, turn signals wouldn't function on cluster, sunroof wouldn't open and close properly. Dealer decided it was Basic Module #5 which was replaced, but now same thing is happening. Any one have a similar issue and found out what happened?

[Crestwood1001]

Just to cover the most simple thing ever, how old is your battery? These cars get goofy when the battery starts to fail. Just something basic that I would check first

[johnrando]

Just to cover the most simple thing ever, how old is your battery? These cars get goofy when the battery starts to fail. Just something basic that I would check first

+1

[Johnmadd]

+1 more

[kayger12]

One more vote for battery.

[danewilson77]

One more vote for battery.

+1

[BRGcoopahS]

When my father first bought his it needed a new battery and prior to putting a new one in, the car was acting very strange. The convertible top was making funny noises, the light for it was flashing, the car was even running sluggish. The battery fixed all of that.

[Kudos]

checked battery at oreilly's they said it was fine. now window is partially down :(

[BRGcoopahS]

Do you know how old the battery actually is? I don't know what a "pep boys" type shop does to check but the little green and yellow bubble is pretty inaccurate. My old battery was green yet was the original battery from 2006.

[kayger12]

I'm guessing it's the "fine" battery. :biggrin

[fredo]

+1 on this:

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i398/booneflyfisher/DSC_0086.jpg

[telijah]

Is "Basic Module #5" the same thing as the GM5?

[midlandtech]

Is "Basic Module #5" the same thing as the GM5?

I have that same question. I would replace the batter depending on how old it is. but my guess is Batt 1st then GM5

[aurelius]

Wal Mart will run a free load test on your battery. Takes about 10 mins. If it tests ok, my vote is for the voltage regulator.

NOTE: if you have the "Z4" alternator, do yourself a huge favor and PM me for further info. Either way, you must visually verify the shape of the connector on back of your alt before you but a new VR. Another indicator is whether there is cool air black plastic ducting on the back of the alt. If not, you probably have the Z4 alt (which has a black cover on back but no air duct).

If you have the standard E46 alt., definitely remove the air duct to clean it of debris and be prepared to find some crazy stuff in there. Like a mouse nest.

VR replacement is easy and does not require alt removal.

[Dave_B]

I'd say Battery, Alternator and then Voltage Regulator in that order.

[BimmerWill]

Good way to check your voltage and help possibly single out some things is to go through your obc and check the battery voltage both with the car off and when running then keep an eye on it during a drive and see if the levels are fluctuating much. If it does then that would def point to either a regulator or battery issue.

I went through two regulators before finally breaking down and buying a new alternator after my original one failed. I believe something in the rotor went out on it which is why the regulators kept frying...old one is pretty since they rebuilt it but it doesn't charge for shite.

If you aren't sure how to run the obc function for battery voltage turn key to position 2 wait for a few seconds for service interval to go away then press in and hold the left push button on the cluster for about 10 seconds then when if says test keep pushing the button til you get to function 19 which unlocks the other functions wait two seconds and then keep pressing the button again until you get to function 9. It should now display your live battery voltage.

With the car off you want At least 12 volts and with the car running at idle and throughout rpm range anywhere from 13.5-14 volts.

Hope that helps!

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[Kudos]

So battery is from 2007, was replaced at bmw during warranty period. So we ended the problem with a replaced K-Bus module, $500 in them doing diagnostics, and $500 for the replacement module.

The problem all stemmed from bad work from previous owners body shop. They had to cut of the rear quarter due to an accident i'm guessing and when replacing it, they frayed some of the wires near a tail light assembly, and there was water there because of the bad welding and water would collect near by. That pretty much shorted the system and caused the issues.

I really am surprised that for the second time, they gave me a loaner, 2012/2013 328 xi, and i kept it for 2 days after work was finished.

As an aside, man these new bmw's and their electric power steering sure do suck. I coudln't wait to get back in my car.