Post FCAB(powerflex) Install: WOES

Last weekend I installed my new Powerflex bushings. The quality of the poly was great. The install went very smoothly and without a hitch. After the install, I drove the car and noticed a huge improvement.

I then went to my local firestone to have it aligned. I was going to purchase the lifetime alignment package for $179, but ended up not paying a dime. The techs couldn't align my car. They were not able to get my wheel centered. His words were: "I get the wheel centered, but after turning the wheel to full lock in both directions the wheel is no longer centered. I think it you have a bad Rack and Pinion".

It seemed to me as if they werent exactly sure on what they were doing. The car seems to wander as I drive down the highway(something I didn't have an issue with before). When changing lanes, the car will violently pull in that direction, and bumps now have the same feeling as before the FCAB replacement; the car will pull while going over bumps.

Now I'm at a loss. When I was under the car, I checked everything out. All of the other bushings and suspension components seemed to have been in great shape. Like stated above, the car drove great after the install, but would pull ever so slightly. But now its all over the place. What should I do?

Take it to dealer and have it aligned properly.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

Yup, or a highly qualified indy, generally that would not be a local Firestone but I won't totally rule out every single F shop.

I had my wife's ZHP aligned at a highly qualified (& higher price) indy 2 years ago, drove it yesterday and its dead on straight. I had my coupe aligned at another indy closer to our house (& cheaper prices), have been back twice and its still not correct, called them about it and they just say its aligned to book specs, no more rechecks. The days of having a front end guy who really understands the steering geometry are fading, most only know how to read that stupid machine screen. So going to have to go to the more distant indy to get it correct. The old adage is true, you get what you pay for.

FWIW, while calling around to figure this issue out, Bimmerworld told me to set our cars with very slight negative toe-in for better control. They said you set toe-in to slight positive for quicker steering response for autocross & track but on a daily driver slight negative prevents it from jumping around on every bump or crease in the road (like you seem to be experiencing.) I believe our cars call for about a dead zero on toe-in but BW said go for the very slight negative to be absolutely positive. From checking wear on my wife's front tires, it looks like the better indy in my area did a slight toe-in because there is slightly more wear on the outer edges of the tires.

Thank you all for the input. I am going to Century BMW to have it aligned. I'll see if they will set the toe to slightly negative.

$192 later, the ZHP drives a straight line! http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/25/u6yretab.jpg

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Originally Posted by wertyu78

$192 later, the ZHP drives a straight line! http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/25/u6yretab.jpg

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Good to hear.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

Even though my indie place is well reputed, i still had to go back after the initial alignment when they installed powerflex CABs and new tires (yeah I got new CABs, Tires and alignment in one visit, best way to do them I think)

- they somehow managed to select the wrong option package or something the 1st time. Car was wandering weird after the 1st alignment, and it's 'almost' perfect after the 2nd time...but there's still a VERY slight pull to the right (which some have said is supposed to be there...)

Yeah I would go to an indy shop that does Euro/and or BMWs specifically and have experience with them. (or the dealer, if you can't find such).

No matter which one you go to, ALWAYS ask for before and after results printed out, and ALWAYS check on the top of the sheet(s) to see that they selected the correct vehicle, year and option. (E46 sports pkg, etc)