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That's the kit I'll be having installed next week (indy). If you're looking to DIY, that's probably the best retrofit option. That's the right page for TRS and it references a thread here for installation: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...t-doityourself. Some people noted their installation experiences there.
I bought the retrofit kit earlier this week. I'll be installing in a few weeks and will report back. There's a zhpMafia link on the retrofit page for the install or here:Quote:
Originally Posted by Cadeez
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...t-doityourself
The link you posted is the correct one. Here is a DIY for that kit:Quote:
Originally Posted by Cadeez
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...t-doityourself
You can also go crazy and do the FX-R 3.0 retrofit. It requires a little more dremelling and is not a complete plug-n-play like the retro-quick kit. Here is the DIY that I followed when I did the FX-R retrofit:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=760394
Awesome thanks for confirming! What is the need for the JB Weld shroud epoxy, and did you get it?Quote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
Thank you! Looking forward to the results and write-up. What is the need for the JB Weld shroud epoxy, and did you get it?Quote:
Originally Posted by Lorenzo
Perfect, thank you. I think I'll roll with the TRFS kit, seems like the best and easiest option at this point, less work = more awesomeQuote:
Originally Posted by anandoc
What D2S brand bulbs are recommended? OSRAM? Should I keep away from Chinese after market ones that are $10 vs $50 for OSRAM? I read the cheap Chinese ones burn hot and can burn my bowls all over again. Is that true?
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If you have the $$, I suggest buying Osram or Phillips, they are worth the money in the end. I bought some 6k bulbs from Khoalty on my last car, one was dead out of the box and the other ended up burning out in a few months. The bulb install is a PITA (unless your headlights are out of the car) so I say roll with the nice ones for headlights, they'll last muuuch longer. Not only that, but the cheaper bulbs don't have the same light output. Nice OEM Osram or Phillips bulbs have that crisp clean/clear cutoff line, if you pull up to a flat wall you can see it, very distinct
Depending on budget. My recommendations:Quote:
Originally Posted by Lorenzo
http://www.lightwerkz.net/index.php/...d2s-bulbs.html
or
http://www.lightwerkz.net/index.php/...d2s-bulbs.html
Thanks. Agreed. I ordered the OSRAM. $95 for the pair on Amazon Prime.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cadeez
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...02f42b976e.jpg
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I'm re-using my old bulbs for now.
Not sure, but I got it as well as the high beam splitters. TRS said the splitters were cheap insurance.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cadeez
Good choices there, thanks VasQuote:
Originally Posted by Vas
Good deal, 5500k will be nice!Quote:
Originally Posted by Lorenzo
So the splitters are just a wiring harness? What's the function, or point of buying it? And which choice did you get? Also, I thought this kit was just new stainless bowls, but it comes with the projector lenses as well? Can we not reuse our OEM projectors? Is there a benefit or downside to the new projectors vs OEM ones from the car?Quote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
Sorry, I didn't ask too much since I won't be doing the installation. The default splitter option(top) is what they told me. If you call them or contact them on their website, I'm sure they would be happy to answer your questions. I didn't think of switching out the projector lenses.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cadeez
Gotcha, I'll feel them out when I place my order. Thanks
I had them installed, but still haven't had the chance to try them at night. I think I need to adjust them up a bit as the cut-off looked a bit low in the parking garage. They didn't end up using the high beam splitter.
One thing that did throw me off was that the Evox-R bowls are plastic. I'm not sure that was mentioned before and prior experience leaves me a little skeptical. :shift
I did this job and the results are amazing.
I realize I was driving blind at night...
I have condensation inside the lens (See picture). Is this because I did not change the seal on the lens ?
Attachment 30444
Ordered E46 ZKW RetroQuick Repair Kit from The Retrofit Source. This is what they sent when I asked for instructions. Clearly limited... Thanks to all of you for adding the detail.
Their so-called kit isn't much of a kit, but at the end of the day, I'm happy that I can see again.
Their instructions aren't worth the pdf they're printed on, but thanks to some folks here and elsewhere posting photos and or videos I ended up making it all work.
Couple of things from my install come to mind as worth passing on, things that I've not seen in other discussions of this install (although that may simply be because I sometimes have a knack for not seeing the obvious.)
1) Once you've ground the plastic away to mount the brackets flush, they can fit 4 different ways but there is only 1 correct fit... the one that matches the bowl/lens assembly being mounted with the high-beam shutter on the bottom opposite the flat edge of the housing (because the lens flips L to R and top to bottom.)
2) When you re-use the screws from the original assembly to mount the new bracket, there may be clearance issues when mounting the bowl/lens assembly... I addressed this by shortening the screws.
3) You will not use all of the parts that TRS sends. They toss several completely useless items into the kit so that if the lack of instructions doesn't confuse you, the extra rings and electric coupler will. You will only use the 1 thick dark plastic ring if you are doing the zkw replacement as I did.
4) the provided electrical lead to the high beam shutter will need to be clipped/soldiered/sealed before being plugged into the new bowl/lens. Getting it to seat once it is ready to be attached is not easy, as the spot it goes into is narrow and deep. Getting it back out seems nearly impossible, so I'd suggest checking your work several times before plugging the high beam shutter lead into the new bowl/lens.
5) If you turned the height adjustment knob all the way so that the lights point down to remove the silver parts from the black housing when disassembling the lights as some instructions rightly suggest, I recommend that prior to reinstalling the completed lights into the housing you first turn the middle height adjustment knob all the way back (as if the lights are aimed fully upward) before trying to seat the lights in the housing for a much easier reassembly.
It is amazing what some of us have been missing with the burnt bowls. The difference in lighting is really quite drastic.
It is also amazing that BMW has not made right on this clear safety issue.